165 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / Exilic Xyth - Sysop / 24 hours 9600 - ] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State Troopers - ] [ - By : Exilic Xyth - ] [ - January 11, 1988 - ] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] Introduction: Touched off by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I found many users asking questions about police radar, radar detectors, and speeding. With Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that will appear in detail on the news at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might be beneficial. I myself had my first experience with police radar in my fathers car, then following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the subject. What a fascinating device, that it will return your speed instantly, what fun one would be to have! After a quick talk with a police friend of mine, I soon took possession of a used police radar gun. Part one: Operation. Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go, you might have noticed that the horn begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes, the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out. Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the frequency and the concentration of the carrier. As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation. Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft.. At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces. This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward, assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at 1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed . Now let us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second, 1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back. The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact. As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples. Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun, although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't. Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is 20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed. For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45 degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859 53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist. Sorry 40 column users. | |\ | \ | \ - Cosine Error - | \ | 45 \ | deg.\ - radar beam | \ | \ v \ Direction of \ cars travel \ \ X - state trooper. Part 2: Application In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued, and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more difficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists in radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. and C> Cosine error correcting radar units. Instant on radar. With the increase of radar receivers, or "Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists first line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speeding motorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to make the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to react to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first instant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator until triggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right traffic conditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officer operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a hill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car. As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth of a second. K-band Radar. When radar detectors were first marketed by the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band. In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band was brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not be picked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as the frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar will detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns. This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you. Cosine error correcting guns. Cosine error was a major falling of radar in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading received by the gun is locked in and displayed. Moving radar guns. Until new developments, all radar units had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual speed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed object. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from the now taken closing speed to the target car. Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h. Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h. 120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h.. Part 3: Defense From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction of new radar technologies such as instant on radar. Detectors: The simple radar receiver is the first line of defense from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false alarms. Good detectors will measure signal strength and type and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well over a mile. Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and 108 dBm/cm^2 for K band . A detector can give you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there. Detectors become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically used. Jammers: Radar jammers are essentially units that transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you set the jammer to transmit. Jammers are highly illegal and will be confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine. Chip's detector. This is a new device, which is really a scanner on the police radio band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system. The signal carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you are within that range of a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning of police radio channels. Last words. Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used properly, it can be deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of a detector. The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden. Radar jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode. Aside from radar, VASCAR is a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance is known. Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector. Instant on radar defense. The only real defense for instant on radar is traffic. Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more often, cluing you into his presence. A jammer well hidden will help, but the best technique is to follow a car making good time. Any police units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him, unless you're too close. Remember: Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational purposes only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your safety. Radar guns: Models. Radar guns are manufactured by many different companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur. The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clocking cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, one forward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable of detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$ Kr-11 This gun is a two piece model which uses a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed while not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200 Falcon This is a hand held gun operating on K band Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about 600$ Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12 400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand held radar guns made by Kustom Signals All these units are available to you via me for less than the troopers pay for them. For prices, and statistics, call my board at (312) - 787 - 2174 or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020 Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$ I personally enjoy harassing that 911 who barrels by at 95 with a detector. Questions? The Dark Side: (312) - 787 - 2174 Ripco (312) - 528 - 5020 The Courts of Chaos ( My sister board ) (312) - 915 - 0947 [ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / 24 hours / Too many megs / 9600 bd - ] [ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:161 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] <<< SPACE ABORTS >>> <<< CONTROL-S PAUSES >>> [<%: THE DARK FOREST [312] 232:8804 :%>] {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} A Metal Communications Presentation {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} The writer of this text file takes responsibility for what {=--=} {=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=--=} {=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=} {=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} Call: /\/\etalland 1 10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761 {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe- shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without t using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. The Byte Byter ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:139 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] _ _ _______ | \/ | / _____/ |_||_|etal/ /hop _________/ / /__________/ (314)432-0756 24 Hours A Day, 300/1200 Baud Presents... ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue One, Phile #6 of 8 How to Pick Master Locks By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to it. 1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. 1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. 2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you got the second number. 3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be patient, it takes time. Have phun... Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM Ninja NYC/TPM [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:122 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] \\_// \\\______(0|0)______/// ///////// \Y/ \\\\\\\\\ // \\ +-----------|The'"3rd"'Reich|----------+ | """"""""""""""""" | | Artificial Intelligence Log 0.04 | +--------------------------------------+ | StunGun: Deffensive and Offensive | | Strategies; Mods to kit; 10/3/86 | +--------------------------------------+ Need a weapon, but don't want to hassle the registration, or worry about being caught possesing 1? Then there is now the StunGun[s/g]...it is legal in most states. Actually, the s/g is based on the TaserGun, that the cops now use to subdue violent offenders. The s/g is a modification the the kit u buy. The kit has 2 prongs that u must actually push into the victum-which is stupid and risky for 3 reasons: 1) the attacker may mistake the s/g as a weapon and shooot u dead right there when u try to pull it out 2) the attacker may shoot u as u try to stab him with the electrodes 3) there may be more than 1 attacker The modification disguises it as a shity-old flashLight so he will think nothing of it as you zap him. Take an old beat-up medium sized flash light about 6 inches long...it has to be long enuf 2 house the p_c board, dart gun mechanism, flashLight battery etc...now, mount the p_c board into the back part, leaving nuf room for dart-gun mech...be sure to fan-fold the electrod wire so when the dart fires, it will lead nice and smooth, and fast. U might want to put in a powerful BB-gun type air-powered projecter to make sure the electrodes penetrate a thick leather jacket. If you are really mechanicaly oriented, U would best to make it reatractable, so u can zap 1 attacker, stun him for a sec, retract the elect., then zap the others... Strategies: 1) it would be best if u make the s/g still shine a light-to keep the disgise- and to avoid suspicion. 2) test the s/g out periodically on ur neighbors dog or cat to make sure the battery is up to power and the circuit's r working right--> note, if the animal goes into a convulsing, twitching-muscle lock and dies frothing at the mouth, its putting out too much wattage...tune it down a bit. U not wanto to get into the situation wher u zap some ugly-reeking ultimate bad-ass psycho and have it give him a nasty shock and start an epileptic-provoking electrical neuro-storm and he goes crazy on ya!!!!!! Its not as hard as you might think to test it out and get some practive on a human subject: The original developers paid a volunteer to pose as a human guini pig...U 2 can put out an ad in some punk-rocker bar and will be surprised at the # of low-lifes wanting to get off on this 'new drug' or 'ultimate pain dispensor' ha, one punk gang requires it as an initiation to get into their gang and if u ever wanted out, u would have to stand up for 5 full secs of 25K wat! NOte: 1 sec at 25K wats will stun ua, and posibly confuse u for a bit, as ur neurons deal with the surge of activity and u hear the crisp crack of flesh being burned away adn the bright arc of lightning blind ya...5 secs is usually enuf to knock u unconscious for 30-45 mins. 3) now that u r a certified s/g operator, here are some off/deff strategies for various situations u may find urself in some fine day... case A: ur strolling down the street one fine day in may, on the south side of Chicago, at 3am, don't ask y, ur lost or want to do some s/g practice... when a dark NEGRO pops down from an overhead fireEscape and kindly says: 'GOOD EVENING, WHITE HONKY-S.O.B-MOTHERFUCKINGCOCKSUCK-A, may ah borra 100 doll-as???...i will surely pay u back on tuesdday'...now, the best way to handle this fuckUp is to hand over ur fake wallot with fake-counterFit bills and fake ID int it...(note: incase he does get away, u not want him to l8r be caught with ur drivers liscense etc, cuz cases have been known where some dumbFuck temp. secretary has mistakenly given u his long criminal record-which could take months and major hassles to fix...) Always keep ur real wallot inside the inseams in ur jacket or pants, or inside pockets. ---> do NOT attempt to talk ur way into any kinda deal with by offering phreak codz etc, as these inner-city scums usually r 9th grade dropouts whoes volcalbulary consists of < 100 words and will not understand or believe u! Now, in tis case, u would not pull out ur s/g, rather, wait til he is running away THEN zap him!!! also note that these punks may have a gun on ya, but usually r NOT loaded, cuz they don't want the hassles of that either...but it IS loaded, the s/g will cause him to convulse and may make him pull the trigger, so its best to zap him in the back. case b: ur driving along at a nice clip along a highWay with ur rader jammer when a gang of 'mad max' types chucks a rock thru ur windsheild forcing u to jam on the brakes and stop...now, if there are about 3-4 of em, just get out ur s/g and be ready to zap the leader, u no, the big, ugly one... this will cause the other punks to scatter like flies. If there are more, and u have the retractable s/g, zap one, retract, zap the others til u have them undercontrol...BUT, if they look like they have guns or bombs, HIT THE GAS AND GET THE FUCK OUTTA THERE FAST!!! Variations on case a: if u are driving an 18 weeler thru the inner city and got stopped at a light, and u see some 'saba-haba-howba-duba' nigger standing on the corner with a pair of boltCutters lookin at ya, there are 2 things u can do here: u no that in 15 secs they have the bac doors open and are D/Ling crates...1) lay on the airHorn and run the red...2) reverse and crush em against the car behind, then floor it and run the red...if u don't wanto do these optons, then booby-trap the bac doors to zap'em... case c: u gots a burgler breaking in...if he is any good and sees ur array of strobing LEDs and thinks he can get by, rig up a motion detector to the s/g and zap him upon entry...u would then have ur sys autoScan #s til it finds help and plays a digitized voice of the emergency. Things to do: say u need bux fast, but don't wanta risk a holdup? well then, merely zap the 7-11 attendant, what could be easier?? or u may even build a remote controled model helicopter with a zaper on it to hold up a bank... they already have ultra small cameras that use CCDs, or Charged Coupled Devices that can see in the dark etc...all crontroled on a microwave freq, what can they do besides shoot it down or try to jam the freq? ...well, i think u can come up with some innovative ideas on ur own...atom...A_I oh, for info on the kit, see the Sep '86 issue of Radio Electronics mag. the kit is about $40...there is also some good info bout communications, from DC to microwave, and other shit...check it out. ave, and other shit...check it out. [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:120 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ---------------------------------------- PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS ---------------------------------------- WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER ---------------------------------------- MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST TEACHERS, PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE FOLLOWING EXPERIMENTS: (1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU ALREADY KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE CALLED NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS, FLAMETHROWERS, ETC. NOW YOU CA N ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL LINE!!!! (2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE- WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THE BACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!! (3) LIGHT BULB BOMB- YOU CAN REPLACE A LIGHT BULB WITH A BOMB THAT YOU KNOW THAT PERSON WILL USE. A LIGHT BULB CAN BE MADE BY (A) GETTING A TORCH( SUCH AS A PROPANE TORCH VIA K-MART) (B) TAKING A LIGHT BULB AND APPLYING THE TORCH TO WHERE THE BASE OF THE BULB(THE PART YOU SCREW IN) AND THE ACTUAL BULB MEET. (C) AFTER A LITTLE WHILE THE GLASS WILL BECOME SOFT ALLOWING YOU TO CAREFULLY REMOVE THE BASE FROM THE BULB ITSELF(BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FILAMENT) (D) NOW FILL THE BUL B WITH NAPLAM(GAS/DISHSOAP) (E) NOW TAKE SUPER-GLUE AND APPLY IT TO THE GLASS WHERE THE BASE AND GLASS MEET(ALONG THE RIM) (F) NOW INSERT THE BASE INTO THE BULB CAREFULLY. (G) ALLOW TO DRY AND YOU GOT YOURSELF A BOMB (H) NOW REPLACE IN A FIXTURE YOUR E NEMY IS TO USE THE REGULAR LIGHT BULB WITH THE ONE YOU MADE. MAKE SURE THE LAMP/DESK LIGHT IS OFF!!! NOW WHEN YOUR ENEMY TURNS ON THE LIGHT, HE/SHE IS IN FOR A SUPRISE. BUT BE FOREWARNED THIS WILL MOST LIKELY KILL OR SERIOUSLY INJURE THIS PERSON. FOR A GO OD TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE A LIGHT BULB BOMB RENT THE MOVIE THE SOLDIER WITH SCOTT GLENN. THERE IS AVERY DETALIED SCENE DESCRIBING HOW TO MAKE IT. (4) SIMPLE SMOKE/STINK BOMB- YOU CAN PURCHAASE SULPHUR AT A DRUGSTORE UNDER THE NAME FLOWERS OF SULPHUR. NOW WHEN SULPHUR BURNS IT WILL GIVE OFF A VERY STRONG ODOR AND PLENTY OF SMOKE. NOW ALL YOU NEED IS A FUSE FROM A FIRECRACKER, A TIN CAN, AND THE SULPHUR. FILL THE CAN WITH SULPHUR(PACK VERY LIGHTLY), PUT ALUNINUM FOIL OVER THE TOP OF THE CAN, POKE A SMALL HOLE INTO THE FOIL, INSERT THE WICK, AND LIGHT IT AND GET OUT OF THE ROOM IF YOU VALUE YOUR LUNGS. YOU CAN FIND MANY USES FOR THIS( OR AT LEAST I HOPE SO. ---------------------------------------- THIS CONCLUDES THIS FILE. ---------------------------------------- CALL RIPCO (312)-528-5020 CALL PHANTASIA- (915)-821-1856 ---------------------------------------- MA BELL'S BRAT, RAGNER ROCKER DEATH TO ALL COMMODORE GEEKS WHO GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME -------------------------------------- GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:62 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] FUN WITH ALARMS A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES FASTER. MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY. IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND GAMES WILL ENSUE. SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER. IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES. ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES, ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT FROM CLOSING. IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES. (> [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:14 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Copy: (>READ> HOW TO MAKE TNT How to make TNT By THE SCREAMER *s*c**re*a***m**e**r* Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are other methods. Preparation of TNT 1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weig ht ratio rather than volume). 2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. Atr this point, the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour. 8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem. 9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly and gently. 10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours. 11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and held there for a half hour. 12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water. 13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. ***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* (>*s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:7 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $ $ ---- ----- --- ---- $ $ $ $ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ $ $ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A SOFT DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW. AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY. IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM YOUR BOMB HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST! !! !! !! <-CHEMICAL INGITER --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS ! / ! ! ! --------- [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:126 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ******************************************************************************* * * * El Pirata's Guild On How To Make A Chemical Fire Bottle * * Written for: Toxic Oyster Guild * * * * Formatted for 80 columns 05/12/85 * * * ******************************************************************************* Materials Required: ================== Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid) Gasoline Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store) Sugar Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size) Small bottle or jar w/lid Rag or absorbent paper (newspaper, paper towels, etc.) String or rubber bands Procedure: ========= 1) Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass. CAUTION: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2) Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature. 3) Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately 2/3 full. 4) Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1' to 2' from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. 5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use. 6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. 7) Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water. 8) Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle. How To Use: ========== 1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2) Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will ignite. Conclusion: ========== This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their possessions. Use your imagination. -=> <=- (c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:106 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> <] [> [> <] <] [> [+%--The 3rd Reich--%+] <] [> [> <] <] [> Presents <] [> <] [> Change Machine Fraud !! <] [> <] [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> Written <] [> by <] [> <] [> The Prisoner /// <] [> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <] [>------------------------------------<] Okay...There are certain ways to take money out of a change machine... 1) You can blow the fucker up.. 2) You can use this quick and easy method Heres what ya do.... I. There are certain types of money changing machines...The one YOU need is the kind where ya put yer bill in the tray ,push the tray in to get yer change... II. Once you got the right machine,get a $5 or a $1 ,it helps if the bill is WRINKLED...Then tear a notch in the bill on the lower left side of the bill.Cut the notch about 3.5 cm. from the lower left hand corner... III. Now, go to the machine..put the bill in the tray and slide it in... Now what will happen is the machine will have so far read the bill right and it will spit out yer change.. Then when it reads the notch, it will think the bill is fucked up and reject it and like you will have the change and yer bill... For this to werk right you must have done this right..it does take practice but once you can do this your local Money Changer will be yer bank... oh yeah one more thing..dont tell or upload this file to to many places otherwise every fuckin person in the nation will be doin this and this file would be no use.... whatever... written by... The Prisoner /// ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ of [+%--The 3rd Reich--+%] from The Sanctuary Elite [--->503-684-0548<---] [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:96 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % % % <> How to make an FM wireless BUG <> % % % % By: <-> Johnney Rotten <-> % % % % <> A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society presentation <> % % % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% What it is ---------- This handy little device can be used for two purposes. The first is a FM bug, which transmits on the FM frequency, thus making it extremely easy to pick up. The second is a FM station blocker (which can be really fun if you are pissed at someone who just happens to be listening to the radio. In this case, you can do 1 (or both) of these: A) announce through the bug (on their station) that Fred (whoever is listening) has just won 1 years supply of orthopedic shoe pads, or B) disconnect the mike, and let it fry the station.) In this file, I will make some incredibly lame schematics, which any fool can follow, (lets see you make good schematics with Apple Writer), and tell you all the junk you need (duh..) Ok, if you have no electronics background at all, go ahead and try it anyways (hell, it's not my money your wasting on parts) Required Parts -------------- (1) 2n3904 transistor............................[Q1] (1) 10k resistor (+-5%)..........................[R1] (1) 4.7k resistor (+-5%).........................[R2] (1) 1k resistor (+-5%)...........................[R3] (1) .001 uf capacitor............................[C1] (1) 5 to 80 pf variable capacitor................[C2] (1) 10 pf capacitor..............................[C3] (2) .5 uh coils..................................[L1,L2] (1) SpSt slide switch............................[S1] (1) 9 volt battery clip..........................[B1] (1) Antenna or antenna wire (3 in. or more)......[A1] (1) microphone (like one out of a phone).........[M1] Schematics ---------- --------------*-------------*-------------*-------------* | | | | | | | | | | +A1 | | | | L1 | S1 R1 | C2 | | | | | | *---- | | | | | + | | | L2 B1 | | | | - | C1 | | | | | | | | *-------------*------Q1/-----*------------* | | \ | --------* | \_________________C3 mike | | --------* | | | R2 R3 | | | | | | --------------------------------------------------------- How to operate -------------- 1. Turn on (duh..) 2. Turn the variable capacitor until you are on the station that you want to use (preferably towards either end, so if they turn on their radio, they don't get a bunch of audio feedback when they hit your station) 3. This bug does not have a long range (50 ft max), but if you use a large antenna on your stereo (like the rooftop kind) the range is greatly increased . I prefer to use a AM/FM walkman, so I can get close to the bug, and tape what I want. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (C) January 1, 1986 Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society |Thanks: Dr. Deth ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Call these cool boards: Castle Asgard.........[10 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 788-3594 Remote Hideout........[20 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 709-1079 Treasure Island.......[2 drv AE/PW: RUSH].......(414) 547-2805 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:93 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ///\/\/\/\/\/\/\\\ <<< Pyro Book ][ >>> \\\/\/\/\/\/\/\/// by ->Capt Hack<- and ->Grey Wolf<- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Well, I never thought I would be doing this, but here it is: ->BOOK II<- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE -------------------------- 1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. 2) add glycerine 3) wait 3-4 min. 4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. ** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] ** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... ** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT) --------------- silver iodide --> aluminum iodide + aluminum + silver ..or.. AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic -- it will absorb water [it will even absorb water out of the air!] SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum -- the resulting aluminum iodide will >disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from the air! The final result is aluminum with a wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI solution] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- THERMITE -------- This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burning open a fortress fone [a pay phone, for those who do not know] Here is the step-by-step on how to make it. 1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is.... a) get an electric train trans- former b) attach a common nail to the PLUS (+) end of the trans- former c) get a glass jar d) fill it with water e) put salt [regular table salt is fine] into the water f) put the other end (-) into water with the nail [leave the transformer out, of course] g) turn on the transformer h) let the contraption run over- night i) seperate out all the red shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a spoon. j) let the stuff dry [like on a paper towel] k) that's it! you have rust! 2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin] 3) Now, just mix: 8 grams rust -------------------------- 3 grams aluminum filings 4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it... 5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can: a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school b) buy it at the hardware store c) buy it from a chemical supply house. 6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse. 7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the Thermite, though] 8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!] ** my thanx to the person who wrote the file "Thermite".. whoever the hell you are..................... [put your name in if you ever get this] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- (=> If I ever get around to it, Pyro book III will live!! (=> If not.. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- I would like to thank Captain Hack for his assistance in generating some of this material. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- )> Stay Around <( -=[ Grey ]=- -=[ Wolf ]=- /^\ The Time Lords /^\ \^/ ~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~ \^/ -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- --END OF FILE-- -END OF FILE-- [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:92 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9 ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: @@@@ --] Man-Tooth [-- @@@@ @@@@ presents... @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ -- HOMEMADE GUNS -- @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ from @@@@ @@@@ "The Poor Man's James Bond" @@@@ @@@@ by Kurt Saxon @@@@ ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS ------------------ Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehen sion. They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell. There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape. The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe. The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer. To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires. Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap. Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber. A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the fr ont of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off s everal yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand. You should not attempt to register such a gun. Pipe Cap / / Bullet Tape Pipe / / / \ / v / / \ / !----! / v v v Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!--------- v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! //----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! ! ^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! ! Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! :::: /! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--! / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\ ! !-! / \-- Rubber / / band ! ! ! / ! ! ! ! ! ! !------! Z I P G U N / <---Nail !-!/ /------------------\ /-----!o!-----\ ! O O O ! ! ------------- ! \--------! !-------/ !! !! !-! !! !! !! !! !! !! Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\ Place !! !! Nail nail hole here Trigger Downloaded from the Matrix: 415-922-2008 [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort: [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] RIPCO Main G-Phile Menu 7/24/88 --------------------------------------- Sub-menu selections: last updated (1) Telecom Series 7/24/88 (2) Numbers 7/24/88 (3) Anarchy 7/24/88 (4) Telecommunications 7/24/88 (5) Misc. 7/24/88 (6) Apple ][ Files 7/24/88 (7) Newspaper & Law Articles 7/24/88 (8) Dox Files 7/24/88 (9) Game Solves 6/26/88 (10) Boxes 4/27/88 [Ripco] Which 1-10 ?=menu,=abort: Main Command Level [(>? [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] RIPCO COMMANDS -------------------------------------- (A)e list (B)ulletin board(s) (C)hat with sysop (D)isplay parms (E)-mail (F)eedback to sysop (G)-philes (H)elp !!! (I)nfo on RIPCO (N)ew g-phile list (O)ff system (P)assword change (S)tatus (yours) (U)sers on RIPCO (V)oting (X) Upload a file ($)system news (?)this menu.... (!)switch boards enter # of sub-board if known global read - enter any board, hit G Main Command Level [(>! [ Alt. Boards ] 1.*.Main Board 2.*.Apple Games/Trades 3.*.Technical Q & A 4.*.General Game Trades 5.*.Phone Phun 6.*.AE Message Board 7.*.Declassified Ads 8.*.Spare Board Which Board -> 8 [[- SPARE -]] Bulletins from 1 to 127 Since your last call: There are 77 new messages Read them now? [Y/N]:No [B8,1-127] Message Command Level [(>? [[- SPARE -]] (#) Number of message to read (N)ew messages (F)orward message read (S)can message titles (B)rowse (title serch) (M)arked messages read (Q)uit to main level (H)elp file (G)lobal Read of whole system (C)hange to another board (E)nter message into system (K)ill a message [B8,1-127] Message Command Level [(>Q Main Command Level [(>O Terminate Connection Are you sure [Y/N]:Yes Goodbye COHO, you were caller #81769 Thanks for calling RIPCO Connected 26 mins, 0 secs --------------------------------------- RIPCO 312-528-5020 24 HOURS --------------------------------------- uAjMR[xRipco G-Phile Menu #3 [ANARCHY] (80 column) 4/9/89 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- G# TITLE UPLOADED LENGTH OF PHILE BY BYTES ------------------------------------------------------------------------- note:for xmodem transfer of file, use X##. for ascii dump, use ## only. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- (250) How to buy Liquor Terminal Raider 7567 (249) The Terrorists Handbook Big Bop Phreak 188032 (248) Fun with Misc People Dispater! 3907 (247) Fun with Automobiles Dispater! 4553 (246) Terrorists Guide to Explosives Big Bop Phreak 19580 (245) 5 Misc Files Mastermind 13547 (244) Electronic Delay Detonator Paul Pekar 6334 (243) Computer Heisting L.E. 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The Sting (13) Napalm Grenade The Sting (12) Lockpicking unknown 3800 (11) Explosives SID VICIOUS 2400 (10) Revenge SILENT REBEL 5600 (9) Supplies MACK BOLAN 4300 (8) M.A.I.M Volume I RICK ROGERS 8100 (7) Soft Drink Can Bomb THE MYSTIC 2000 (6) Electronic Terrorism THE MYSTIC 5100 (5) Letter Bombs THE MYSTIC 3600 (4) Making Thermite THE MYSTIC 2500 (3) Light Bulb Bomb SHADOW HAWK I 2000 (2) Explosives SHADOW HAWK I 20000 (1) Paranoia(bombs & gas lines) THE APPRENTICE 2300 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:1 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Hey, check out the facts,let's see what they do for your PARANOIA: Natural gas flows through millions of miles of piplines in the U.S. One charge will blow up a gas pipeline along miles of its length since the air let into the pipeline by the exp- losion will cause secondary explosions. Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas which accounts for more than one-third of the nation's total energy supply. Only 4 pipelines connects the gas fields in the South and Southwest to New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the lines can be obtanied from the Dept- ment ofEnergy and by studying industry journals. Oil pipelines can be destroyed by penetrating the central pipeline cont- rol system. In one Southern city, which controls oil movement in several states. Yikes! And contrary to the argument advanced by some self-styled special- ists and the news media that few poss- ess the technological expertise to use weapons of mass destruction, it is much much easier than you think. There's a book giving location,pub- lished in the New York Times,Feb 1979, two large map pinpointing every power station and transmission line from Washington to the Canadian border. Blowing up some of these stations and lines would wipe out the electrical supply of the East Coast. For another example, the a Book called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by some guy named, Charles Clark. Title of the book is : Technological Terrorism $10.00 Clark shows how they canb be readily obtained by theft from inefficently guarded nuclear plants and armories. Both of the above mentioned books are readily available to anyone with the buck, how sad,huh...shit! Technological Terrorism is a nightmare scenario,and a serious warning to every one of us. That really screws up the old head. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:2 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know youuwould like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the anchient Chineese did it but not how you can do it with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e xplosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. The king of explosives for the do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is easy to make and when properly confined is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM ootable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2 parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortar and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensative to friction or impact, but is very sensative to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie pan approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at all times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times. Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do ju st that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing ground with care. HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB: Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit. Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a small object. Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps. To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something. The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL: This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it that way. HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES: The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black powder is easily detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons. They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for a bomb without dieing of boredom. Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. --- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it. HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID: Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment. HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the fillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off. ELECTRIC FUSE # 3: An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores. The y are sold for setting off model rockets. MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION: Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply. METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. METHOD # 2: Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from this. METHOD # 3: Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames. METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE: Here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive that can be detonated by a fly walking on it. Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply. [ This is the end of the file. Thanks ] VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVRM [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:3 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Exploding Light bulbs (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_) I actually got this from a movie, and have tried it [IT WORKS!!!]. Ok you may have to do this a couple times before you get it. Heres what you need: A few light bulbs Torch [one that will melt glass, radio shack single cylender model will do] Some gasoline Some liquid soap Some epoxy glue Heres what you do: 1) Make a hole in the light bulb like this: * --- : : Make hole here : : or here. \ / \ / / \ : : : : \---/ Not here!!!!! 2) Making the hole, like in the diagram [dont make it on the bottom, because if the seal you will make should break, the person/room you want to eliminate will notice the hole [and the gasoline on the floor!!!] whereas the if its on top it will still work... 3) Now carefully fill the light bulb about half full with gas, and then the rest with soap [hold on angle if you have to]. Now epoxy the hole shut, and screw it in... have phun (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_) -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Reply to00JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDFROMSYS$mKBSGS [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:4 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] MAKING THERMITE BY X CALIBUR THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE. THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS, EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE ^^^^^^^^ WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS A NICE LIGHT RED. THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE! NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH. THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:5 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: : : : HOW TO MAKE A WORKING LETTER-BOMB : : BY : : : : THE REBEL WARHEAD : : : ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: LETTER BOMBS ARE VERY SIMPLE TO MAKE, BUT THE DIFFICULT PART IS MAKING SURE IT WILL DETONATE PROPERLY, OR THAT IT IS NOT OBVIOUS THAT IT IS A BOMB. MIXTURES: ABOUT 75% ALUMINUM POWDER WITH 25% IRON POWER IS BEST. THIS IS A LIGHT VERSION OF THERMITE, SINCE IT IS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (THE ENVELOPE, AS DESCRIBED BELOW A WAYS). MIX THE ABOVE WELL. THE IDEA IS THIS: IRON CAN BURN, AT A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE, BUT IT NEEDS A LITTLE HELP. THIS IS WHAT THE ALUMINUM IS FOR. ALUMINUM BURNS AT A RELATIVELY LOW TEMPERATURE, SO IT IS USED AS A CATALYST OF SORTS. MAGNESIUM IS USED TO FLASH-IGNITE THE ALUMINUM, WHICH THEN BURNS THE IRON, AT A SUITABLE TEMPERATURE. SINCE THIS IS GOING OFF IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE, IT WILL BURN MUCH HOTTER AND SLOWER AND WITH MORE VIOLENCE THAN A NORMAL MIX. I ADVISE YOU PLAY WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, LEARNING YOUR MIXTURE. NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF: GET AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE, THE TYPE THAT IS DOUBLE LAYERED. SEPERATE THE LAYERS. IN THE INNER LAYER GOES THE WONDERFUL MIXTURE, ONE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH. KEEP THIS SECTION SEPERATE, BUT IT MIGHT BE HANDLE TO TOP IT OFF WITH SOME MAGNESIUM. THE OUTER LAYER CAN BE EITHER MAGNESIUM, FOR A FLASH BOMB, OR POSSIBLY A MATERIAL OF YOUR OWN CHOICE. NOW FOR THE DIFFICULT PART! THE FUSE... WE CAN MAKE A FUSE FROM ANOTHER SET OF CHEMICALS: IODINE CRYSTALS, AND AMONIUM HYDROXIDE, IN LIQUID FORM. MIX THESE TOGETHER,IN ABOUT AND EQUAL AMOUNT, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO USE A HEAVY AMOUNT OF IODINE IF PRESSED FOR TIME. THESE FORM A NEW CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE, ABOUT AND INCH LONG. THESE ARE HIGHLY VOLATILE, AND I ADVISE KEEPING THEM PROTECTED. THEY HAVE ABOUT THE IMPACT POWER OF AN M-100 FOR A TEASPOON. I PUT THESE IN A PROTECTIVE CARD-BOARD LINING, AND PUT THEM AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE. RIG THIS SO IT PUTS PRESSURE ON [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:{10 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:10 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] The Underground // [\> 714 - 929 - 0935 Black Fire <) ---------- - Captain Cloner - -------------- Q/uit Which -> done [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:11 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] -------------------------------------- [ ] [ HOME EXPLOSIVES ] [ ] [ FROM: INGY ] [ UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE- HOLD AMMONIA. 2) WAIT OVERNIGHT 3) POUR OFF LIQUID 4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CON- CRETE) 5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT! ........................................ ->SMOKE BOMB<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR ---------------------- 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS 2) PUT IN A TIN CAN, AND ONTO A LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER) 3) LET GEL & HARDEN 4) PUT MATCH IN AS A FUSE. 5) LIGHT AND RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK... ........................................ ->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE -------------------------- 1 PART VASELINE 2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. ......................................... ->CAR BOMB<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PILLBOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON A PRE- SCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK) 2) CLOSE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK 3) WAIT 5 MINUTES. 4) RUN ......................................... ->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1)MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE ------------------ 1 PART GASOLINE 2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:12 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ ]] LOCK PICKING [[ ]] BY [[ ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT. FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ (HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\ NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT. IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR OF A LOCK: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:13 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] READ> NAPALM GRENADE =&=&=Napalm Made Easy=&=&= $^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^ Typed and uploaded by: -------------------------------=>Sir Knight<=---------------------------------- Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)Here's what'cha need: =============================================================================== Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy) A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia Pellets A Drill Some bendable wire A Nail =============================================================================== First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline. Take the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture... it should look like this: -^-^-^-^-^-^-^- ! ! ! ! <-Coke Can ! ! !=============! !=============! !=============! <-Mixture !=============! --------------- Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm- onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to drop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to let it drop...It should look like this: (========<+>=========) ! ^^Nail ^^Pellet ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !====================! !====================! <-Mixture !====================! !====================! ---------------------- And there is your Napalm grenade...if there is enough demand, there will be another article on more advanced Napalm...... (> (> [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:16 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ BLOWING UP A CAR $ $ ------- -- - --- $ $ $ $ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ $ $ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $ $ $ Typed and Uploaded by: $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood. Explo sives are placed as near the occupants as possilbe. NOTE- THIS ARTICLE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO PSYCH OUT THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACT ICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE IN MIND, THEN READ ON: The fuse, homemade, commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around the exhause manifold. After a few min- utes on the road the exhaust manifold gets almost red hot and ignites the fuse. This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up on the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't. Besides, if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the driver may start the engine before the passenger gets into the car... You can see how embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you? Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too set in thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a car blow up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the road. They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electric wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blasting cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connected to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the input side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the car's frame as a ground. This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough, there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to a ground. This usually results in mis fires and no end of frustrations. ---------------------------------------- Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462 The Armoury at:(201)267-1207 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:19 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG UPLOADED BY -THE TRIXTER- THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVE S. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LAR GER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIM ENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH C HEMICALS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS. =============================================================================== I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES. A. GUNPOWDER: 75% POTASSIUM NITRATE 15% CHARCOAL 10% SULFUR THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MO RTER & PESTLE. IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF I N A CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE THE CONTAINER. GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS: THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE CH ARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURN FIERCELY. CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR DIOXIDE ARE THE GASES RELEASED. B. AMMONAL: AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR AMMON AL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS. C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES: 1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE) BU RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE ACID IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE, WHICH EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL. 2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL F OR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE' (TM). HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM NITRATE + AM MONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON FILINGS + CHARCOA L + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM NITRATE, PURPLE= IODIN E CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM CHLORIDE, ETC...). 3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT. MIXTURE: AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A DROP OR TWO OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH REACTS WITH THE ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE IODINE (GIVING OFF P URPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN MIXED WITH IODINE V APOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING. AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM ZINC DUST: 8 GRAMS IODINE CRYSTALS: 1 GRAM 4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED FL AME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY GROUND . 5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED IN BLOW TORCHES...) II. THERMITE REACTION. THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AN D TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I TALKED ABOUT TO START IT! STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER (325 MESH OR FINER) PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO STA RT THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE STA RTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1 PART ALUM INUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR. WHEN YOU FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G! ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE THERMITE REACTION. THE ALTERNATI VE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE. AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G ALU MINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE. III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES. A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE M IGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY. THIS IS SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE PURCHASE D. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINIC ACID. YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS IS THEOR ETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMA LL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS. B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF. MATERIALS- 2-3G IODINE 15ML CONC. AMMONIA 8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER 50ML BEAKER FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE EAR PLUGS TAPE SPATULA STIRRING ROD ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER. STIR, LET STAND FOR 5 MIN UTES. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN SOLID...). SCAPE THE BROWN RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR S HEETS OF FILTER PAPER. DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE SHEET OF DRY FILTER PAPER. TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT L EAST 30 MINUTES (PREFERRABLY LONGER). TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER. (WEAR EA R PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!) C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON) COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT D OES NOT GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS. MATERIALS- 70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID 5G ABSORBENT COTTON 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE 250ML BEAKER ICE BATH TONGS PAPER TOWELS PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACI D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID SO LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML WATE R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE. IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE DRY AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT. D. NITROGLYCERINE NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS. I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES. MATERIALS- 70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID 10 ML GLYCERINE ICE BATH 150ML BEAKER PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. SLO WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO MAINTA IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD ABOUT 10ML GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN NITROGLYCE RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HO URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH NITRIC AND S ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YO U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S OF G ASES. TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT). IV. OTHER STUFF A. PEROXYACETONE PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSI TIVE. MATERIALS- 4ML ACETONE 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID 150MM TEST TUBE ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE. THEN ADD 4 DROPS C ONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO A PPEAR. IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40 CELSI US. ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS. SWIRL THE SLURRY AND FILTER I T. LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS. TO IGNITE, LIGHT A CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT LEAST A METER AWAY) . B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE... THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE. SINCE THIS REA CTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR LAR GER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE. 6G ZINC POWDER 1G SULFUR POWDER INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE, STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE CR EATED. THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM F OR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE. UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE GLOW-IN-TH E-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS , AND MORE... I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONST RATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS. THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1... LOOK FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: WHAT TO DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS... ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! --------------------------------------- THE CHEMIST'S COR