From wang@ac.dal.caWed Feb  8 01:14:09 1995
Date: 4 FEB 95 23:57:58 -0400 
From: wang@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: How to make Bombs book 2 [1/2]





        here is another book. Follwup comments is welcome. Replies will
be ignored.



May-15-1990                                                                v2.0



 WARNING - These files are for  study  purposes only! I take absolutely NO
           responsibility for loss of life or limb, or damage to property,
           due  to the improper use of these files.  Anyhow...have  at it!




                               TABLE OF CONTENTS


       Rebel Alliance Megcatline ..................................... 1
       Firebombs ..................................................... 1
       Napalm ........................................................ 1
       Match Head Bomb ............................................... 2
       Fuse Ignition Firebomb ........................................ 2
       Napalm Made Easy .............................................. 2
       Gunpowder ..................................................... 3
       Ammonal ....................................................... 3
       Chemically Ignited Explosives (Exp 1-5) ....................... 4
       Thermite Reaction ............................................. 4
       Mercury (II) Fulminate ........................................ 5
       Nitrogen Triiodide ............................................ 5
       Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) ................................. 5
       Acetone Hydrogen Explosive .................................... 6
       Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... ........................................ 6
       Plastic Explosives ............................................ 7
       Creation of Thermite .......................................... 8
       How to Make a 'Real' Pipe Bomb ................................ 9
       Jug Band Bomb ................................................ 11
       TNT (Trinitrotoluene) ........................................ 11
       Nitroglycerine ............................................... 13
       Dynamite ..................................................... 14
       Detonating Dynamite and TNT .................................. 15
       Bomb Containers .............................................. 15
       Polish Flairs ................................................ 15
       Household Chemicals and Their Composition .................... 16
       Generating Chlorine Gas ...................................... 16
       Chlorine and Turpentine ...................................... 16
       Generating Hydrogen Gas ...................................... 16
       Hydrogen and Chlorine ........................................ 17
       Iodine ....................................................... 17
       Grain Elevator Explosion ..................................... 17
       Where to Find Chemicals ...................................... 17
       Acetone Peroxide Explosive ................................... 18
       Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosives ....................... 19
       RDX Explosive ................................................ 20
       Mini-Compound Detonators ..................................... 21
       Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor ............................. 23
       Stink Bomb ................................................... 24
       Cordite ...................................................... 25






                                                                       
Page 1

                            REBEL ALLIANCE MEGCATLINE

Materials:

              79 Cent Bic lighter
              Needle-nose pliers
              Tin snips or wire cutters

Procedure:

    First, rip the metal windguard off the lighter with  the  pliers and then
then twist  the  little  flame  adjuster  all  the way to the right, and keep
twisting until it won't move up anymore (stop  and twist  back  if  it starts
hissing).   There   is  a  gap  between  the  flame adjust  and  the  plastic
push-thing (it  moves  the  nozzle  up). You  then flatten the wind-guard out
and snip a notch in it big enough to fit around the nozzle.

    What  you  will  do is  you  will fit the metal piece in the slot between
the flame adjust and the plastic or the  ring  around  the nozzle, which ever
shows.  The metal  should be bent down, like the hose on a fire extinguisher.
make sure the 'handle' is snug.  You should glue carefully.

     You then hold the lighter backwards from how you would normally hold it,
thumb-tab  away.  You  will   strike   with  your  index  finger.   Practice.
Depress the handle with your thumb.  Strike, and have instant hell-fire!

Enjoy!


                                                ø
                                     Bombs       
                                                 
                                 By: Lex Luthor  
                               ¿                 


                                    FIREBOMBS

     Most fire bombs  are  simply  gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked
rag  in  the mouth (the  bottle's  mouth,  not  yours).  The original Molotov
cocktail,  and still about  the  best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and
one  part  motor oil.  The oil  helps  it  to  cling to what it splatters on.

     Some  use one  part roofing  tar and one part gasoline.  Fire bombs have
been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.





                                     NAPALM

     About  the best  fire bomb  is napalm.  It has a thick consistency, like
jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings.

     Napalm  is  simply one part  gasoline  and  one  part soap.  The 
soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap.  Detergents won't do.

                                                                       
Page 2

     The gasoline  must be  heated in  order for the soap to melt.  The usual
way is  with  a  double boiler where  the  top  part has at least a two-quart
capacity.  The  water  in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.

      Then one part, by volume, of  gasoline  is  put  in  the  top  part and
allowed to heat as much as it will  and  the  soap  is  added and the 
mess is
stirred until  it  thickens.  A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bath
tub with water as hot as you can get it.  It  will  hold  its heat longer and
permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.


                                 MATCH HEAD BOMB

     Simple  safety  match  heads in a  pipe,  capped  at  both  ends, 
make a
devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.

     A plastic  baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent
detonation by contact with the metal.

     Cutting enough match heads  to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one
but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV.


                             FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB

     A four strand home made fuse is used  for this.  It burns like 
fury.  It
is  held  down  and  concealed by a strip of bent  tin  cut from a  can.  The
exposed end of the  fuse is dipped into  the flare igniter.  To use this one,
you  light  the fuse and  hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned 
out of
sight under the tin.  Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will
ignite the contents.


                                                 ø
                                Napalm Made Easy  
                                                  
                                 By Sir Knight    
                              ¿                   

     Napalm is in itself a very simple  substance... It  can be used for many
things  (i.e.  getting  back  at your neighbour!!).   Here's what  you  need:

Materials:

              Gasoline
              Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy)
              Ammonia pellets
              Drill
              Coke can
              Bendable wire
              Nail

Procedure:

     First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy,  and 1/2 gasoline.  Take the Coke can,
and  fill  it half  full  with  this wonderful  mixture.  It should look like
this:
                                                                       
Page 3


          1^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^*
                         
                          <- Coke can
                         
           XXXXXXXXXXXXX 
           XXXXXXXXXXXXX 
           XXXXXXXXXXXXX  <-Mixture
           XXXXXXXXXXXXX 
          ¿              

     Now,  take the  drill (or  some sharp object) and put a hole through the
ammonia  pellet big enough for the  nail.  Put the nail  through  the  pellet
(which I might  add  can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that
to the top of the can so the nail can  be  slipped  out  easily, allowing the
pellet  to  drop.  WARNING:  Do not let that pellet fall into the 
mixture, as
your wife will soon become a widow.


                                                             ø
                     CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES  
                   ¿                                          

                            By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG

     THIS ARTICLE  DEALS  WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME  DANGEROUS
EXPLOSIVES.  IF YOU INTEND TO  MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO  SO IN SMALL
AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS  AND COULD SERIOUSLY  INJURE OR KILL
YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU  DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT  CHEMISTRY,
DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS!  I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING.  UNLESS
YOU  HAVE  A  DEATH  WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU
HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS.


I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES

 A) Gunpowder:

              75% Potassium Nitrate
              15% Charcoal
              10% Sulfur

     The chemicals should be ground into  a file  powder (separately!) 
with a
morter and  pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it  burns  fiercely,
but if in a closed  space  it  builds up pressure from the released gases and
can  explode   the  container.  Gunpowder  works  like  this:  The  potassium
nitrate  oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely.  Carbon
dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.


 B) Ammonal:

     Ammonal is  a mixture of  ammonium  nitrate  (a  strong  oxidizer)  with
aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the 
percentage of
composition for ammonial, so  you may want to experiment a little using small
amounts.


                                                                       
Page 4


 C) Chemically Ignited Explosives:

 Experiment 1:

     A mixture of 1  part  potassium  chlorate  to  3  parts  table  sugar
     (sucrose) burns fiercely  and brightly  (similar  to  the  burning of
     magnesium) when 1 drop  of  concentrated  sulfuric  acid is placed on
     it.  What occurs is this:  when  the  acid  is  added  it reacts with
     the potassium chlorate to form  chlorine  dioxide,  which explodes on
     formation, burning the sugar  as  well.

 Experiment 2:

     Using various chemicals, I have  developed  a  mixture  that works very
     well  for  imitating volcanic eruptions.  I have given it the name 'MPG
     Volcanite'.  Here  it is:  Potassium chlorate + potassium 
perchlorate +
     ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium  nitrate  +  
sugar +
     sulfur + iron filings + charcoal +  zinc  dust  +  some coloring agent.
     (Scarlet  =  strontium  nitrate,  Purple  =  Iodine  crystals, 
Yellow =
     Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc).

 Experiment 3:

     So,  do  you  think  water  puts out fires?  In this one, it starts it!
     Mixture:  Ammonium  nitrate  +  ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.
     When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric
     acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat.  The heat
     vaporizes the  iodine  (giving  off  purple  smoke)  and  the  ammonium
     chloride (becomes  purple  when  mixed with iodine vapor).  It also may
     ignite the hydrogen and begin burning.

       Ammonium nitrate:  8g
      Ammonium chloride:  1g
              Zinc dust:  8g
        Iodine crystals:  1g

 Experiment 4:

     Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured
     flame  in  30  seconds  to  1  minute.  Works  best  if  the   potassium
     permanganate is finely ground.

 Experiment 5:

     Calcium  carbide  + water releases acetylene gas (highly  flammable  gas
     used in blow torches).



II. THERMITE REACTION

     The thermite reaction  is  used  in welding, because it generates molten
iron  and temperatures of  3500 C  (6000F+).  It  uses  one  of  the previous
reactions that I talked about to start it!

    Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar
  Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)
                                                                       
Page 5


     Put  the potassium chlorate +  sugar around and on top of the main part.
To  start  the reaction place  one  drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top
of the starter mixture.  Step back!  The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide
to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.  When
you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is  an  alternative starter for
the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine.
Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate,
6ml glycerine.

III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES

  A) Mercury (II) Fulminate

     To  produce  mercury  (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,
one might assume that  it  could  be  formed  by  adding  fulminic  acid  to
mercury.  This  is  somewhat  difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable
and cannot be purchased.  I  did some research and figured out a way to make
it without fulminic acid.  You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to
1 part mercury.  This is  theoretical  (I  have not yet tried it) so please,
if you try this, do it in  VERY  small  amounts  and  tell  me  the results.

  B) Nitrogen Triiodide

     Nitrogen  Triiodide  is  a  very  powerful  and  very  shock  sensitive
explosive.  Never  store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air
movements, and other tiny things could set it off.

Materials:

              2-3g Iodine
              15ml Concentrated ammonia
              8 Sheets of filter paper
              50ml beaker
              Feather mounted on a two meter pole
              Ear Plugs
              Tape
              Spatula
              Stirring Rod

Procedure:

     Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker.  Stir, let stand for
5 minutes.  Do the  following  within  5  minutes:  Retain  the solid, decant
the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid).  Scrape  the brown
residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets  of  filter  paper.
Divide  solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter
paper.  Tape  in  position, leave  to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes
(preferably longer).  To detonate,  touch  with  feather (wear ear plugs when
detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!).


  C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)

     Commonly known  as  smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly 
that; it
does not give off smoke when it burns.


                                                                       
Page 6

Materials:

              70ml  Concentrated sulfuric acid
              30ml  Concentrated nitric acid
              5g    Absorbent cotton
              250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate
              250ml beaker
              Ice bath
              Tongs
              Paper towels

Procedure:

     Place 250ml beaker  in  the  ice  bath,  add  70ml  sulfuric  acid, 30ml
nitric acid.  Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces.  With tongs, immerse each piece
in  the  acid  solution for 1 minute.  Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive
baths  of  500ml  water.  Use  fresh water for each piece.  Then  
immerse  in
250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate.  If it bubbles, rinse in water once  more  until
no bubbling occurs.  Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into
cakes  or  blocks  or  gelatanize  it  with acetone.  This is powerful stuff!


  D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive:

Materials:

           4ml Acetone
           4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide
           4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid
           150mm test tube

     Add 4ml acetone and  4ml  hydrogen  peroxide  to  the test tube.  Then
add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid.  In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should begin to appear.  If no change is observed, warm the  test tube in a
water bath at 40 Celsius.  Allow the reaction to continue  for  two  hours.
Swirl the slurry and filter it.  Leave out on filter paper to  dry  for  at
least two hours.  To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light
it (while standing at least a meter away).


  E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke...

     The following reaction should produce a fair amount  of  smoke.  Since
this  reaction  is  not  all  the  dangerous, you can use larger amounts if
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.

   6g Zinc powder
   1g Sulfur Powder

     Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.  A lot of smoke should
be created.







                                                                       
Page 7

                                                             ø
                     RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE  
                   ¿                                          

Method A:

Materials:

              Gasoline  - 1 part
              Oil       - 1 half part
              Styrofoam - 1 part

1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at  ANY  time let the mixture get too hot)!
   NOTE:  Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady!

2) Let cool to a thick viscosity.

3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, &  gas.

4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away  from  any  type  of  fire!  Do this
   step with extreme caution!

5) Let  the mixture  cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which
   is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit.

6) Mold  the mixture  how  you  want  (different  shapes will make it 
more or
   less lethal).


Dr. Booms Method:

Materials:

              20ml gasoline
              5-10 plastic bags
              10ml oil or starter fluid
              50ml beaker or glass bowl
              gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen

Procedure:

    Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly
thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably
work just as well or better than plastic bags!)  and add oil.  Add bags again
until very thick.  Add  the  guncotton  and  mix well.  Keep on adding strips
of   plastic   until  no  more  will  dissolve  and  then  pour  in  a  mold.
NOTE:  It would a good  idea  to  heat  this  stuff  with  a  double  boiler.



Optional: You can  add  nuts,  bolts,  and  screws  while  mixing, along with
gunpowder,  2 M-80's  or   any  other  type  of  explosive  to  make  it  the
equivalent  of  a  Molotov   cocktail,  but  be warned:  The fragments (nuts,
bolts, etc.) are deadly.  They  will penetrate  a brick wall when the mixture
is detonated.



                                                                       
Page 8

Detonation:

1) The mixture  can  be  thrown,  but  sometimes  detonation does not occur.

2) The  mixture  can  be  wired  for  an  electric charge to be sent through
   it.  It will detonate without doubt.  A  regular fuse can be sent through
   it  also.  If this  method is used, some sort  of timer  is  recommended.




                                                    ø
                              CREATION OF THERMITE!  
                            ¿                        

                                  By Grey Wolf

     Thermite  is  a  powerful  substance which can burn through practically
anything, save tungsten.  It  is  especially  of use in trying to crack open
a  fortress  fone.  How  here's  how  you  make  it.  It  is  very   simple.

     The  first  step  in making thermite is to make hematite.  In laymans's
terms,  Hemetite  is  iron  oxide  (rust).  Here  is a good method of making
large quantities of rust.  You  will  electrolyze  a  metal  rod,  such 
as a
common nail.  You will need a source of  DC  power  as  well.   An  electric
train transformer is perfect.  Attach  the  rod  to the positive wire.  Then
place the rod and the negative wire in opposite  sides of a glass jar filled
with water.  Put a little salt in the water, just  enough to make it conduct
well (a teaspoon).  Let the setup sit overnight.  In the morning, there will
be a dark red crud in the jar.  Filter all the crud out of the water of just
fish it out will a spoon.  Now you will need to  dry  it out.  Heat it in an
iron pot until it all turns a nice light red.

     The  other  ingredient  you  will  need  is  aluminum filings.  You can
either file down a  bar  of  aluminum,  or  (as  I  suggest),  but  aluminum
filings at your  local  hardware  shop  (if  you  buy  the  bar, use no less
than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin).

     That's  almost  it!   Now,  mix together the rust and aluminum filings.
The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings.  That's
thermite!

     Now, to light it!  Stick a length  of  magnesium  ribbon  in  a pile of
the  thermite  (either  steal  it  from  a  chem lab or buy it at your local
hardware store).  If not, order from a  chemical  supply house.  It's pretty
cheap).  The  ribbon  should  stick  into  the   thermite   like   a   fuse.

     Now you light the magnesium with  a  blowtorch  (don't worry, the torch
isn't  hot  enough  to  light the thermite).   When  the  burning  magnesium
reaches the thermite,  it  will  light.  When  the  thermite  burns, get the
hell back!   That  stuff  can  vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on
human flesh!






                                                                       
Page 9

                                                      ø
                               HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL'    
                                 [> PIPE BOMB <]       
                          ¿                            

                                 By Shootz Bootz

     This file was written for INFORMATION  PURPOSES  ONLY,  and NOT for
illegal use.   The writer cannot be held  responsible  for anything  you
do  to yourself!!!!   If there are any  spelling or grammatical  errors,
then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care...  my  point  is driven
across.

     Well  first  of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you  must  first
have a pipe.  It doesn't matter how big, or how small,  you  could use a
1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage  pipe.  Once
you  have  this,  you  will  need  a   few   ingredients  first.   These
ingredients make a substance called  'flash  powder'.  This can be a lot
of  fun if you make a pile of it about  1/4  lbs.  and have your  friend
light  it  with  a match (some friend).  Well,  here's  what  you  need:

  1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store)
  2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place)
  3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections)
  4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!)
  5> Some kind of piping
  6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue
  7> Small drill bit and drill
  8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex)
  9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..)

     The  magnesium  has  to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get
them  in the camping sections  of  Caldor,  and  Sears.  They look like a
block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00  butthey go a long way!).

     Now that you have the stuff,  start the  work.   Find  a  drill  bit
about  the  size of a pencil point,  and drill  a  small hole about  dead
center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of  the  pipe,  don't  drill
both  sides.   Now you should have a  piece  of  pipe,  with a small hole
drilled  into  it.   After this,  take  some  hot  glue (hot glue  gun or
such).   Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue)  and  stuff  it  into
one  end of the pipe,  so it plugs up the hole, and  is  about  2cm  into
the pipe.   Now fill that end with melted glue  over  the  paper,  so its
about even with the pipe, and sit that  down  on  another piece of paper.
Now you should have a pipe with a small hole  in  the center, and one end
with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces  of  paper on either side  of
the glue.

     So  far  so  good...  now  for  the  flash   powder.   Pour  in  the
potassium chlorate  (largest amount).   Then  pour  in  the  charcoal  (a
little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff  into  a  grinding plate,
not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the  block  and  ground
up finally,  make this a bit  less  than  the  charcoal  amount.   Lastly
add  the  sulphur,  only a little though,  about  half  as  much  as  the
magnesium  you  just put in.   Now grind  all  the  ingredients  together
until they look like  1  grey  dust.   Try a little bit (no not the whole
damn thing! save that for the  fun later!).  Light it and see how fast it
goes  off.   Your  gonna  have  to fiddle with it until it turns out  the
                                                                      
Page 10

fastest (sounds like something else eh?).

     Now that you have the flash powder ready,  stick a piece of  tape
over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out).  Put the pipe
over  a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious
flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe.   One the pipe  seems
full,  place  a piece of paper over the opening in that end,  and pack
that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe.

     Take  the paper out,  and pour more powder in.   Keep  doing  his
until  its very well packed,  and its almost full!  Make sure that the
flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled!  Now put a  piece
of  paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and
a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!).

     After  that,  pour in your final glue in the end you just packed,
make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the  paper!
Stick  another  piece of paper over that end (just glued) and  let  it
dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat!

     While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie
it  down flat on the table,  over a piece of cardboard or something if
its  a good table!!  Now mix some water with the flash  powder  (about
1/2-1/2  mix).   No  it  won't  kill the powder.   Now  shake  up  the
bottle, and  spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let  it  dry, and
repeat  the sequence.   After about 4 shots on 1 side,  repeat on  the
other  side (flip the tissue paper).  Continue this until your liking.
When this is done,  and the tissue paper is dry,  tear/cut off a small
sheet, roll it, and light it.


     If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it.  If you
like  to,  before rolling  it,  pour in some  flash  powder  (not  too
much!!!)  and roll it like a joint.   Then twist it.   You now have  a
fuse (really?!?!).  Make sure its long!!

     Now for the final assembly.  Take the tape off the small hole you
drilled,  and  poke  thru the powder with a pencil point/ice  pick  or
whatever (or the drill bit!).   If you REALLY want to, then put a drop
of glue to hold the fuse in better,  but you don't have to!!  (not too
much!).   Now  make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or  so
until its rock hard (no ideas!).

     You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB.   Great for
parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything
else  you want to do.  When you light this bomb,  point the end in the
direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your
crazy,  and in that case,  I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in
your face!!

    If  you  really want to fancy it up, you can always  use  threaded
steel end caps!!!!!!

     Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making!

     Be safe (hehehe)


                                                                      
Page 11

                     1ÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕ*
                                THE JUG BAND BOMB           
                               BY: THE GRAY MOUSER          
                      ÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕæ


This one is short and sweet:

1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top.

3) Now turn the jug around to  coat  the  inner  surfaces  and  evaporates.

4) Add a few drops of potassium  permanganate  (you  can get this real easy
   from a snake-bite kit).

5) The  bomb  is  detonated  by  throwing  or forcibly rolling it against a
   solid object.

When  this  sucker  goes  off,  it  is  the same as half stick of dynamite.


                                                           ø
                                 HOW TO MAKE TNT            
                     ¿                                      


     Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene).   This  and  other very  similar types of  high  ex-
plosives  are  all used by the military,  because  of  their  fantastic
power,  about  2.25 millions pounds per square  inch,  and their  great
stability.   TNT  also  has  the great advantage  of being able  to  be
melted  at  82  degrees F.,  so that  it can  be  poured  into  shells,
mortars,  or any other projectiles.   Military  TNT comes in containers
which  resemble  dry cell batteries,  and  are  usually ignited  by  an
electrical charge,  coupled with an electrical blasting  cap,  although
there are other methods.


Preparation of TNT:

1 -   Take two beakers.  In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent
      sulfuric acid,  23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water.   In
      the other beaker, prepare another  solution of 57 percent nitric
      acid  and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a  weight
      ratio rather than volume).

2 -   Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker
      and placed in an ice bath.

3 -   Add  ten  grams  of  toluene,  and  stir  for  several  minutes.

4 -   Remove  this  beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until  it
      reaches 50 degrees C.   The solution is stirred constantly while
      being heated.

5 -   Fifty additional grams of the acid,  from the first beaker,  are
      added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes,  and
      an  oily  liquid  will  begin  to  form  on the top of the acid.
                                                                      
Page 12


6 -   After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice
      bath,   and  cooled  to  45  degrees  C.   When  reaching   this
      temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom
      of  the  beaker.   At this point,  the remaining  acid  solution
      should be drawn off, by using a syringe.

7 -   Fifty  more  grams of the first acid solution are added  to  the
      oily  liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to  83
      degrees C.  After this temperature is reached,  it is maintained
      for a full half hour.

8 -   At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60
      degrees  C,  and  is held at  this temperature for another  full
      half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once
      more only the oily liquid at the bottom.

9 -   Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added,  while the oily  liquid
      is  gently  heated to 80 degrees C.   All temperature  increases
      must be accomplished slowly and gently.

10 -  Once the desired temperature is reached,  30 grams of the second
      acid solution are added,  and the temperature is raised from  80
      degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours.

11 -  After  this  three hour period,  the mixture is lowered  to  100
      degrees C and held there for a half hour.

12 -  After  this  half  hour,  the oil is removed form the  acid  and
      washed with boiling water.

13 -  After  the  washing  with  boiling  water, while  being  stirred
      constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.

14 -  When the solidification has started,  cold water is added to the
      beaker,  so that the TNT will form into pellets.   Once this  is
      done, you have a good quality TNT.

NOTE: The  temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT,  and
      must  be used as such.   DO NOT estimate or  use approximations.
      Buy a good centigrade thermometer.

    The  author  take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to  persons  or
property for this formula.  It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.














                                                                      
Page 13

                                                       ø
                                  NITROGLYCERIN          
                       ¿                                 

                                   by Dr. Boom


WARNING:  This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and
          for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it!




Materials:

              Glass bowl and glass rod
              Water (lots of it)
              Sulfuric acid
              Nitric Acid
              Glycerin
              Refrigerator

    Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod.  The Sulfuric acid
and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and  you
can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown  bar  of  soap  from  a
health food store (i.e. - Cardish).


Procedure:

    Carefully mix equal  amounts  of  the  acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts
water to 3 parts of the mixture of  acid.  Put mixture and bar of glycerine
soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze  the damn thing!) and leave it
for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp-
erature (5 C) will  prevent  detonation  (and we don't want THAT to happen,
or at least not NOW).  Shred the soap to a flaky powder and  dissolve it in
the  acid  solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!).  Leave it
in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after
5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is  quite  lethal),
and some liquid acid left.  Skim off the  excess  acid  to  leave only the
thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to  it  (don't drown it or
you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge  until  you  need  it - never
keep it out of the fridge too long (and  make  sure  it's  not  eaten  for
dinner).  It  can  be detonated by  dropping  it, throwing it, shaking it,
by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer).

    You might want to soak  it in sawdust or something similar so it won't
blow up as easily if you  happen  to accidentally bump it or something.










                                                                      
Page 14

                                                       ø
                                     DYNAMITE           
                         ¿                              

                                   by Dr. Boom

DANGER:  Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest
         that if you actually  attempt  to make this - make it in very low
         quantities so you don't blow the roof off your  house.  Also  use
         extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone!

Materials:

              thermometer
              glass bowls
              stirring rods
              nitroglycerin
              newspaper or Kieselguhr
              sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate
              guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives
              cotton and cardboard
              detonator (see below)

    Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a  porous
silica substance) but the book says  that  newspaper works just as well.
With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it  is
more like paper mache.


Procedure:

    First soak strips of  newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then
mush it in your hands (isn't  this  fun?!?)  until  it  becomes more like a
paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up).
Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times!

    Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on
add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp
being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1).  Mix well.


    Almost done!  Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part
nitroglycerine and  1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer
to make sure everything is below 15 C.

    Now make a cardboard  tube  3  inches  long  with a radius of 1cm.  Put
cotton  in  one end as a plug and pour in the  dynamite  until  it  is  2/3
full  (2"  down  the  tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can
dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake!

    When it's  dry,  fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder,
guncotton or plastic explosives  and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which
should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire
a   L O N G   distance away to a  power  source.  You can also use a timer,
but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing!

    Be careful with this stuff  unless  you  want  to  join  AstroBoy - the
pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch.
                                                                      
Page 15

                           DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE

                                   by Dr. Boom

    Even though  TNT and Dynamite are powerful  explosives,  to  set  them
off you need a smaller explosion or a charge.  For the shock needed to set
them off, plastic  explosives  can  be  used.  It's easy to make and quite
powerful.  Let's say you use TNT:  There's  the  two  basic ways to do it.
If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it  half  way  with TNT and fill
the other half with plastic explosives.  Since your using small amounts of
TNT,  you  can  use  a  LONG fuse (at least 1 foot)  of  magnesium  ribbon
as a fuse, but never put it under a  car  or  it'll  blow it up (yes, it's
still pretty damn powerful).

    If you're a little  nuts  and  decide  to make a large charge, I would
recomment  using  an  electronic  detonator  or  timer.   Well, I hope you
enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the  CN  tower,  bring  a little
ball  of  Dynamite or TNT and drop it  and  30  seconds  later,  enjoy  the
fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it.  A penny will
penetrate 1 food into concrete!).


                                 BOMB CONTAINERS

                                   by Dr. Boom

    Drill a hole in a ping pong  ball  and  fill  it  up  with  plastic
explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do
this:  Take your ping pong ball bomb  and  put  a magnesium ribbon fuse
(1 foot long)  in  the  ball (you can add BB pellets) and  light  it at
midnight and throw it down!

The foot long fuse should should give it 30  seconds  to  Dr. Boom Doom
Time.  I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood!

    Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an  ashtray  with  the  sand
in it.  Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic
explosives.  Too bad you can't see the  face  of  the  person who tried
to put out his cigarette!  I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away!

    Try  thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your
favourite explosive.


                                  POLISH FLAIRS

Materials:

              Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)
              Sucrose (sugar)
              Napkin

Procedure:

    Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it.  It will flare up
and smoke.    NOTE:  Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous!


                                                                      
Page 16


I.  LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION


Household Product                           Chemical Compounds
                                                                            

Vinegar                                     3-5% Acetic Acid
Baking Soda                                 Sodium Bicarbonate
Drain Cleaners                              Sodium Hydroxide
Sani-Flush                                  75% Sodium Bisulfate
Ammonia Water                               Ammonium Hydroxide
Table Salt                                  Sodium Chloride
Sugar                                       Sucrose
Malk of Magnesia                            Magnesium Hydroxide
Tincture of Iodine                          47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine
Rubbing Alcohol                             70%-99% Isopropyl Alcohol


II.  WIMPY, BUT PRETTY SAFE EXPERIMENTS <phew>


 Experiment 1:  Generating Chlorine Gas

    Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say "Do not  mix  with  chlorine
 bleach" and vice versa?  That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax
 or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas.  To capture it, get a
 large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom.  Then pour some ammonia down into
 the bottle.  Since the chlorine is heavier than  air, it will stay down in
 there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or Ammonia (DON'T).  For
 something fun do with chlorine, stay tuned.


 Experiment 2:  Chlorine and Turpentine

    Take a small cloth or rag  and  soak  it  in  turpentine.  Quickly drop
 it into the bottle of chlorine.  It  should  give  off alot of black smoke
 and probably start burning.


 Experiment 3:  Generating Hydrogen Gas

    To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid  and  a  metal  that  will
 react with that acid.  Try  vinegar  (acetic  acid)  with  zinc,  aluminum,
 magnesium, etc.  You can collect hydrogen in  something if you note that it
 is lighter than air.  Light a small  amount  and it burns with a small POP.

    Another way of creating  hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water.  This
 involves separating water (H2O)  into hydrogen  and  oxygen  by an electric
 current.  To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large
 bowl, two carbon electrodes (take  them  out  of  an  unworking  6-12  volt
 battery), and table salt.  Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water.
 Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them
 with the mouth of the tube aiming down.  Connect  the  battery to some wire
 going down to the electrodes.  This will work for  a  while,  but  chlorine
 will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your
 copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes (the  table salt is broken up
 into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off  as a gas with oxygen
                                                                      
Page 17

 while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide). Therefore, if
 you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead.  It  will not
 affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity.


 Experiment 4:  Hydrogen and Chlorine

    Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover  the  mouth  with  your  thumb.
 Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine  (not  one  that
 has reacted with turpentine).  Say "goodbye test tube,"  and  drop  it into
 the bottle.  The hydrogen and chlorine should react  and  possible  explode
 (depending on purity and amount of each gas).  An  interesting  thing about
 this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat  or  other energy  is
 around.  When a light is turned on, enough energy is produced to cause them
 to react.


 Experiment 5:  Iodine

    Tincture of iodine  contains mainly alcogol and a little iodine.  To
 separate them, put the ticture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and
 heat it over a candle.  Have a stand holding another metal lid directly
 over the candle.  Have a stand holding  another metal lid directly over
 the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice  on  top  of it.  The
 alcohol should evaporate, and the  iodine  should  sublime, but  should
 reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid  directly  above.  You can
 use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen  triiodide
 (discussion further up in this document).


  Experiment 6:  Grain-Elevator Explosion

    Want  to  try  your own "grain-elevator explosion?"  Get  a  candle  and
 some flour.  Light the candle and put some flour in your hand.  Try various
 ways of getting the  flour  to  leave  your hand and become dust right over
 the  candle  flame.  The  enormous  surface  area  allows all the tiny dust
 particles  to burn, which they do at about the same time, combining to form
 a fireball effect.  In  grain  elevators, much  the same thing happens.  If
 you can get your hands on some Lycopodium powder, do.  This  will work much
 better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected.


                                                                ø
                    Where Can I Find Some Of Those Chemicals?    
                ¿                                                


    Most of the chemicals listed can most likely be found at the following
places, your school, or under "Chemicals" in the Yellow Pages:

Company                            Address                 City      
Phone ##
                                                                             
Chemglobe Corporation              300 March Road          Kanata    592-2541
Diversey Wyandotte Incorporated    124 O'Connor            Ottawa    235-5095
Hercules Canada Incorporated       3450 Wyman Crescent     Ottawa    526-1816
Ottawa Chemists Clinic Pharmacy    192 Laurier Ave. West   Ottawa    235-3993
Terry Chemicals Bay                5-19 Grenfell Crescent  Nepean    226-1979

                                                                      
Page 18

                                                         ø
                            Acetone Peroxide Explosive     
                      ¿                                    

                                 Jack the Ripper


      This  explosive  can not only  be  used  as an explosive, but also 
as a
detonator.  I  will  go  into  this  one  very  detailed and all my following
articles will be the same.

Materials:

Hydrogen Peroxide (hair bleach, drug stores and hair supply stores)
Acetone (hardware Stores and drug stores)
Sulfuric Acid (clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear)
Eye Dropper or Syringe w/glass tube
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)
Glass Containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper Towels

All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your
own purposes.


Procedure:

1)  Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container
    and mix thoroughly.

2)  Cool it by placing it in a  larger container  containing  ice, salt,  and
    water.  Now cool it to 5 degrees Celsius.

3)  Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture  slowly  
(drop by
    drop w/ the eye dropper).  Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the
    temperature  between  5-10  degrees  Celsius.  If  the temperature  rises
    don't shit just stop adding the  sulfuric acid until it cools  down  then
    start adding it again.

4)  Now  that you have all  the  acid  into the mixture continue stirring for
    another 5 minutes.

5)  Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.

6)  After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate  
out  of
    the once  clear  solution.  Precipitation should be done after 24  hours.

7)  Now filter out the  crystals  through a paper towel attached to a jar w/a
    rubber band.  Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water
    over them, letting the water rinse the crystals & filter down through the
    paper towel into the jar.

8)  Select a container and allow them to dry.

                                                                      
Page 19

Uses:

    Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest  
detonator
that I have ever encountered.  Works best in 2.5 inch  lengths of brass 
tubing
with one end sealed.  The only drawback is that it must  be  used  
quickly  as
Acetone   Peroxide   deteriorates   quickly.   I  have  found that 
keeping  it
refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effect it 
should
be used 7 days after  manufacture  at the latest.  It  also  can  be  
used  to
detonate  almost  every  Ammonium  Nitrate   compound,  and  Ammonium  
Nitrate
itself for that matter.


                                                                ø
                      Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive      
                ¿                                                

                                 Jack The Ripper

      This one  is  a  killer  it  is more powerful and more brisant than 
C-4.
However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a  homemade compound 
detonator.
Namely  Acetone   Peroxide  detonators  can  be  used  here  or  
Mini-Compound
Detonators.


Materials:

Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than            -  Farm and Feed Stores
32% Nitrogen) or pure

Anhydrous Hydrazine                                  -  Chemical Supply House
(Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!)

Large Mixing Container
GLASS stirring rod
Storage Container w/tight lid
Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator


Procedure:

NOTE: mixing  these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the 
reaction
is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the 
volume
of  the Hydrazine!  Also large volumes  of ammonia gas are released when 
these
two are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing.

1)  Pour into the container the an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal 
to the
    amount of explosive required.

2)  Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon  at a time 
to the
    container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly),  & 
then add
    more.

3)  Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate  no longer 
dissolves
    into the hydrazine, and don't worry  about  the small amount  of  
ammonium
    nitrate left over.

4)  Now your basically done and  you  have an explosive more powerful 
than any
    military explosive.
                                                                      
Page 20


5)  To make it  more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 
mesh
    or finer)


Uses:

    This mixture has unique absorption and retention  properties,  and  
can be
poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine.  This  type of land 
mine
is totally disguised and cannot be noticed, and  all  you need to do is 
bury a
compound detonator in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch 
etc.

    This type of land mine remains  detonatable for up to four days 
regardless
of rain etc...  It can also be poured  into  a  container  and used as a 
bomb.


                                                      ø
                                  RDX Explosive        
                         ¿                             

                                 Jack The Ripper


   The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to make RDX
was so shabby and lame it was probably  written  by  an eight year old mental
patient.  So here is mine easy!  Straightforward!  Comprehendible!


Materials:

Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine, & Methenamine)
Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware stores)
Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores)
Scale with gram accuracy
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups
Thermometer 20-100 degrees Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit
Several large quart canning jars
Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal
Paper Towels


Procedure:

1)  Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc  of nitric  acid in a large 
canning jar
    and bring the temperature to between 20  and  30 degrees Celsius 
(68-86 F)
    by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.

2)  Keep  the  thermometer  in  the  jar  so  you  can  closely  
maintain  the
    temperature between your basins of hot and cold water.

3)  Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by  volume of  hexamin.  
Then
    start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 
minute
    time period.  All the while maintaining the temperature between  20 
and 30
    degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins.

4)  When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid  heat  the  solution  
to  55
    degrees Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar  in a basin of hot water.  
Then
    maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.
                                                                      
Page 21


5)  Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water  and  place it in the 
basin
    of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius (68 F).  Now 
when the
    solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3 cups (750ml) of  cold  
water and
    white salt will appear.

6)  Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care.  Now 
filter the
    Acid/Water/RDX  solution  through  a  paper  towel  covering  the 
mouth of
    another jar.

7)  Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional  3 
cups of
    fresh cold water & a  teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the 
acid.
    Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.

8)  It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart 
canning jar
    2/3 full of acetone & heating  the acetone then adding the RDX 
crystals to
    it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the 
acetone.

9)  Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room 
temperature and
    let it stand for one hour.  The RDX will then precipitate again into  
it's
    salt.  Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another  
jar &
    rinse it with cold water the same way you did before.   Now you  
have  the
    finished product roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX.

10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in ajar with an air 
tight
    lid for future use.  Seeing that RDX does not lose it's 
effectiveness  for
    months.


Uses:

   RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into 
tubes to
make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for 
making
detonators in  which RDX  will  be  used  along  with  other explosives 
before
mentioned.  RDX  however is sensitive  to  friction,  and  can  be  used 
as an
explosive by itself.  It is also commonly referred to as Clyclonite.



                                                        ø
                             Mini-Compound Detonator     
                        ¿                                

                                 Jack The Ripper

       This is basically a tutorial in making detonators, and there are a few
rules, that I would like each & every one of you to follow. Making detonators
is very dangerous considering  that the  purpose of detonators is for 
them to
be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful.  Also  the  detonators 
I am
telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied 
on a
larger scale.







                                                                      
Page 22


Materials:

Name                                                      Source
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Empty .22 Magnum  shells  or  copper/brass/aluminum      Gun stores or hard-
tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long.  These      ware stores
tubes must also be closed at one end.

A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX   PETN is the center
(amount depends on how many detonators you  intend  to   filling of 
detonating
made) PETN can be substituted here.                      cords.

A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e.
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.

An ignition charge of black powder.                      Gun stores FFF black
                                                         powder.

A  loading  press  (commonly used for reloading shells   Gun stores
also  please  be  safe  considering  a  few  of  these
detonators may  detonate  when  being  compressed,  so
take the neccessary precautions such as safety glasses
etc...)


Procedure:

NOTE: dirt  or  oil may sensitive  the  detonators to an unsafe level so when
handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges  use tongs.  Also 
boil a
bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your
shower on hot and leave it on!

1)    Now light a candle, and  let  two  drops  of  wax  drip into each shell
      casing before use.  Then let the wax cool down.

2)    Now fill the casing to  a  depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
      GENTLY  and  SLOWLY insert the ram  and  compress  the explosive slowly
      and evenly.  Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.

3)    Continue this process adding small amounts  of  RDX  or  PETN  
until  a
      column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into
      the 1 inch shell casing.

4)    Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the  same way you added the
      secondary explosive on top of the  secondary  explosive.  Now  add  the
      Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8  inch 
column of
      secondary explosive and compress it  with  the  ram  until it 
reaches a
      height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.

5)    Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder.  Now  seal
      the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.





                                                                      
Page 23


Diagram:

                           -   +++++
                           |   |@@@@|
                           |   |****|
                           |   |****|
                           |   |####|
              1 Inch ------<   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |####|
                           |   |----|
                           -   |====|


@  - Black Powder (Ignition Charge)
*  - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)
#  - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)
-  - Two drops of wax on Bottom
+  - Tape covering top
=  - The bottom of shell casing
|  - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell

Uses:

        These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger
version can be used where a hard to detonate  substance is used.  Their main
use is for miniature hand grenades and other small explosives.


                                                             ø
                        Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor      
                  ¿                                           

                                 Jack The Ripper


     This ignitor is one of my  many favorites, it can be ignited by either
concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids.  It also works excellently as a time
delay, which I will detail later.


Materials:

Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses)
(Granulated) Sugar (grocery store)
Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon, etc...)
Storage Container w/tight fitting lid
Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can be held in the hand)


Procedure:

1)    Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the  large board and
      rub with the other  flat board  or  a  rolling  pin until the particles
      resemble granulated sugar.
                                                                      
Page 24


2)    Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then
      add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate  to the container.  Now
      recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5  minutes until it has
      a uniform color and consistency.

3)    Store  for  future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake
      it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.


Uses:

      Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule  and 
bury
the gelatin capsule in the  Potassium Chlorate mixture.  Depending on how 
many
gelatin capsules you use & their  size depends on the delay. It can range 
from
20 minutes to and hour or more.  This type of ignitor reaches a 
temperature of
3,200 degrees Fahrenheit and  can  ignite  most incendiaries.  It can 
also  be
compacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.



                                   STINK BOMB

                                   by Dr. Boom

     If you want more life in your party (or break it up), you have to try
this.


Materials:

              Aerosol can of whipcream
              Plastic bags, styrofoam...
              Magnesium ribbon
              5ml gas
              Matches


Procedure(s):

Part 1

       Buy  a  can  of  whipcream (the kind in the aerosol can) and leave
it under your bed for a  week  for  it  to spoil.  Press the nozzle for 5
seconds, it can avacuate  a  whole  room  from the stench (think  what 10
seconds can do)!

Part 2

       Take 5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc)
until it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it  won't  run.  Take the cap
off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium  ribbon.  Leave  1
foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around  the nozzle
and light the fuse and run.  Watch the fireworks and  asked  who squeezed
the cheese!).



                                                                      
Page 25

                                     CORDITE

                                   by Dr. Boom

Materials:

              Guncotton
              Nitroglycerine
              Acetone
              Petroleum jelly

Procedure:


    Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix it with
nitroglycerine,  petroleum  jelly  and  a little acetone and let it dry and
then you have cordite!  You can use it  by  itself  or  with other charges.

Have fun!
 



