========
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.folklore.herbs,rec.food.preserving,alt.answers,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Culinary herbFAQ (v.1.11) Part 1/4
From: HeK@hetta.pp.fi (Henriette Kress)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:44:49 GMT

Archive-name: food/culinary-herbs/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly (on or about 20th)
Last-modified: 1996/11/25
Version: 1.11
URL: http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed/culiherb.html

Available by ftp: sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
 /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/faqs/

==========

Contents

Part 1

   * 1 Introduction
        o 1.1 Contributors
        o 1.2 Wishlist
   * 2 Herbs: gardening / harvesting / using them
   * 2.x This is the structure of the herb entries:
     2.x.1 Growing ___
     2 x 2 Harvesting ___
     2.x.3 Using / preserving ___
     2.x.4 Which ___ do you have?
     And these are the herbs so far:
        o 2.1 Basil
        o 2.2 Curry plant / Curry leaf
        o 2.3 Sage
        o 2.4 Chives
        o 2.5 Saffron
        o 2.6 Zucchini flowers
        o 2.7 Chamomile
        o 2.8 Coriander / Cilantro / Culantro / Vietnamese Coriander
        o 2.9 The mints
        o 2.10 Feverfew and Pyrethrum
        o 2.11 Tarragon
        o 2.12 Nasturtiums
        o 2.13 Dill
        o 2.14 Rosemary
        o 2.15 Lavender
        o 2.16 Lemon balm
        o 2.17 Garlic
        o 2.18 Thyme
        o 2.19 Lemon grass / Citronella grass
        o 2.20 Horseradish
        o 2.21 Fennel
        o 2.22 Anise Hyssop
        o 2.23 Parsley
        o 2.24 Monarda or Bee Balm
        o 2.25 Ginger
        o 2.26 Anise
        o 2.27 Borage
        o 2.28 Horehound
        o 2.29 Marjoram and oregano / Cuban oregano / Mexican oregano -
          [changed] 20Nov96
        o 2.30 Caraway
        o 2.31 Catnip
        o 2.32 Lovage
        o 2.33 Savory: Winter and Summer
        o 2.34 Rue
        o 2.35 Rocket
        o 2.36 Angelica
        o 2.37 Sweet Cicely
        o 2.38 Mexican Mint Marigold (MMM) / Mexican Tarragon
   * 3 Gardening
        o 3.1 Herbs for ground cover
        o 3.2 Herbs you can't get rid of (= easy gardening)
        o 3.3 Tall herbs
        o 3.4 Herbs for shade
        o 3.5 Growing herbs indoors
        o 3.6 Growing herbs from cuttings
        o 3.7 Warning signs of soil nutrient deficiencies
   * 4 Processing herbs
        o 4.1 Herb vinegars
             + 4.1.1 Herbal Vinaigrette
        o 4.2 Herb oil
        o 4.3 Drying your herbs
        o 4.4 Freezing your herbs
        o 4.5 Herb butter
        o 4.6 Jelly, syrup and other sweet stuff
             + 4.6.1 Flower / herb jelly
             + 4.6.2 Flower / herb syrup
             + 4.6.3 Miscellaneous sweet stuff
        o 4.7 Potpourris and other non-culinary uses for herbs / flowers
             + 4.7.1 Stovetop potpourri
             + 4.7.2 Dry potpourri
             + 4.7.3 Drying flowers whole for potpourri
             + 4.7.4 Bath salts
             + 4.7.5 Rose beads
        o 4.8 Beverages
             + 4.8.1 Wine
             + 4.8.2 Ginger ale / ginger beer
             + 4.8.3 Herbal teas
        o 4.9 Recipes using lots of herbs
             + 4.9.1 Gazpacho
             + 4.9.2 Pesto
             + 4.9.3 Miscellaneous
             + 4.9.4 Spice mixes
             + 4.9.5 Mustards
   * 5 Sites to see
        o 5.1 FTP sites
        o 5.2 WWW pages

==========

1 Introduction

-----
Here's the umpth + n posting of the culinary/gardening herbfaq.
Have fun - I do.

HeK@hetta.pp.fi

==========

1.1 Contributors

-----
FAQ Keeper: Henriette Kress, HeK@hetta.pp.fi.

Very active contributors so far (listed alphabetically):

How do you get listed here? Easy. Give me some good input on any missing
item ('wishlist'), or a valuable correction on any entry, or a valuable
addition on any entry. ;) All good stuff is welcome.

Catherine A Hensley (hensley@lims1.lanl.gov)
Chris McElrath (Mcmariah@AOL.COM)
Christel Reeve (CReeve@banyan.com)
Conrad Richter (conrad@richters.com)
Donna Beach (phuyett@cctr.umkc.edu)
DonW1948@aol.com
Gwen Baker (Baker.325@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu)
Jeanne Manton (jmanton@standard.com)
Jeff Benjamin (benji@fc.hp.com)
Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>
JR Schroeder (jera@ksu.ksu.edu)
Judith Rogow (jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us)
Karen Fletcher (fletcher@firefly.prairienet.org)
Lawrence H Smith (Lawrence.H.Smith@williams.edu)
Leslie Basel (lebasil@ag.arizona.edu)
Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@VNET.IBM.COM)
Malcolm Farmer (farmermj@bham.ac.uk)
Michael Rooney (mrooney@mrooney.pn.com)
Nick Maclaren (nmm1@cam.ac.uk)
Rastapoodle (herblady@super.zippo.com)
Rene Burrough (100735.543@compuserve.com)
Silkia@aol.com
Sonny Hays-Eberts (eberts@donald.uoregon.edu)
Susan Hattie Steinsapir (hattie@netcom.com)
Susan L. Nielsen (snielsen@orednet.org)

Others:

adawson@ehs.eduhsd.k12.ca.us
Alan Woods <awoods@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Alisa Norvelle <NORVELLE@uga.cc.uga.edu>
Amy Smith <aks3@cornell.edu>
Amy Snell <asnell@interaccess.com>
Andreas Guenin <stewball@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu>
Andrew Grant <adgrant@water.waterw.com>
Ann Albers <albersa@aztec.asu.edu>
Ann McCormick <McCORMICK9@AOL.COM>
Anne E. Comer <Anne_E._Comer@kamilche.wa.com>
Annette <no email address>
Arthur Evans <ae@meer.net>
Barb Schaller <Schaller_Barb@htc.honeywell.com>
Barbara Seeton <an354@FreeNet.Carleton.CA>
Bess Haile <bhaile@leo.vsla.edu>
Beth W Sprow <mouvedre@ix.netcom.com>
Billie <bmilhol@sas.ab.ca>
Carole Henson <carole@chenson.demon.co.uk>
Ceci Henningsson <ceci@lysator.liu.se>
Christine A. Owens <CAOwens@ix.netcom.com>
Christopher Loffredo <cloffred@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Christopher Hedley <christopher@gn.apc.org>
CKimb28370@aol.com
Dan Baldwin <baldwin@frodo.colorado.edu>
Dave Platt dplatt@ntg.com
David Bennett <dabennet@mailbox.syr.edu>
David Perry <dperry@bbn.com>
David & Paula Oliver <doliver@minerva.polaristel.net>
Debbie Golembiski <102522.1235@CompuServe.COM>
Denise Henry <denise@gromet.demon.co.uk>
Dennis O'Connell <endothyr@athens.net>
Denys Meakin <denysm@vcn.bc.ca>
Diana Politika <diana.politika@tenforward.com>
Dina <stlouins@cnsvax.uwec.edu>
Don Wiss <donwiss@panix.com>
Donna <Henchpa@aol.com>
Dwight Sipler <dps@hyperion.haystack.edu>
Elizabeth Platt <eaplatt@worm.hooked.net>
Eric Hunt <ehunt@bga.com>
Esther Czekalski <E.Czekalski@MA02Q.BULL.COM>
Eve Dexter <evedex@hookup.net>
Fran <frich@TENET.EDU>
Graham Sorenson <Graham@fragrant.demon.co.uk>
Gregory R. Cook <gcook@chem.Stanford.EDU>
Harold <orchids@communique.net>
HerbalMuse@aol.com
J Michel <aa100465@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Jaime/WildFire Farm <jknoble@INTERSERV.COM>
James Michael Kocher <jk1n+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Jason Wade Rupe <jwr3150@tam2000.tamu.edu>
Jeanne Ross <ross@together.net>
Jeffrey Clayton <clayton2@ix.netcom.com> <Barb.>
Jennifer Norris <norrisj@boalt.berkeley.edu>
Jennifer Zahn <jszahn1@facstaff.wisc.edu>
jnewbo@aol.com
jnilsen@minerva.cis.yale.edu
JoAnne Hildebrand <hildebra@europa.umuc.edu>
Joep@reol.com
Joe VanDerBos <joevanderbos@bdt.com>
Joey L Hanson <joehanso@badlands.NoDak.edu>
John Pedlow <TKSJOHN@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu>
Joseph St.Lawrence <es051447@orion.yorku.ca>
Josh Bogin <bogin@is2.nyu.edu>
jouet@aol.com
Judi Burley <jburley@TRIANON.WORLDTEL.COM
Judy Martin-Spiker <judyms@lsid.hp.com>
Julia Moravcsik <MORAVCSIK@clipr.Colorado.EDU>
Julia Trachsel <jdtrach@islandnet.com>
K Raghunandan <raghu@hocpb.ho.att.com>
Kacey <Kcl58@aol.com>
karyn.siegel-maier@kotl.mhv.net
Kate Blacklock <kate@netway.net>
Kate Borley <kab1004@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Kathleen Snyder <kathleen.snyder@lunatic.com>
Kathy French <french@jeeves.ucsd.edu>
Kaycee Curr <kcurr@cyberspace.com>
Ken Fitch <docfitch@telis.org>
Kenneth Nilsson <kenneth@dicom.se>
Kim Pratt <pratt@olympus.net>
kpmglib@netcom.com
Laurie Otto <lotto@ptialaska.net>
Leslie <duncan@ISYS.CA>
Leslie Paul Davies <lpdavies@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us>
Libby Goldstein <libby@igc.apc.org>
Mandy Haggith <hag@aisb.ed.ac.uk>
Mari J Stoddard <stoddard@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu>
Mark David Morrison <mmorriso@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu>
Martin Witchard (Cat) <mwitchar@metz.une.edu.au>
Mary A. Flesch <mflesch@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
Mary Hall Sheahan <Emme@worldnet.att.net>
Marylin Kraker <Marylin.Kraker@bbs.c4systm.com>
Mel Atchley <melatchley@aol.com>
Melissa C. Davidson <Melissa_C._Davidson@city-net.com>
Michelle Marie Manke <mmm@alpha2.csd.uwm.edu>
Mike Stallcup <michael.stallcup@mercury.msfc.nasa.gov>
Mindy Vinqvist <mvinqvist@mta.ca>
Nancy Moote <nancy_moote@sunshine.net>
Naomi Brokaw <naomib@sco.COM>
NDooley@president-po.president.uiowa.edu
Pat Peck <arpeck@FREENET.SCRI.FSU.EDU>
Patrick Millard <ac577@dayton.wright.edu>
Peter Harris <ecoli@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Peter Mortimer <ag500@ccn.cs.dal.ca>
Ray A. Orosz <afn23664@afn.org>
rgyure@aol.com
Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Rick Giese <southsky@maui.net>
Rita Melnick <melnick@stsci.edu>
Robert G. Nold <rnold@sanewssa.mnet.uswest.com>
Rudy Taraschi <rudy@cae.ca>
Ruth J Fink-Winter <wfink@iastate.edu>
sallee@aol.com
Sallie Montuori <foxdale@widomaker.com>
Sam Waring <waring@infomail.com>
Sarah G. <rscw081@uacsc1.albany.edu>
Sheri McRae <sherae@zeta.org.au>
skifast123@aol.com
Sue Flesh <ericf@central.co.nz>
Stavros Macrakis <macrakis@osf.org>
Steen Goddik <sgoddik@bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Stephanie da Silva <arielle@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM>
Stephen Otrembiak <sotrembi@saims.skidmore.edu>
Steve Cogorno <cogorno@netcom.com>
Susan D. Hill <Anahita@aol.com>
SuseB@aol.com
Suzanne M. Engels <engels@wibla.mv.att.com>
TOIVO@aol.com
Tom Havey <thavey@boi.hp.com>
Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bris.ac.uk>
vshafer216@aol.com
Waldek Trafidlo <bobas@freenet.vancouver.bc.ca>
wayne chase <chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca>
weed <avril_tolley@berlex.com>
Wendi L Gardner <wlgardne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Wolf <wolf@gaia.caltech.edu>
Xiaoyan Ma <xma@haas.berkeley.edu>
Yasha Hartberg <Yasha@bioch.tamu.edu>

==========

1.2 Wishlist

-----
Still a lot missing:

Single herbs, diverse missing bits:

   * If you find holes in the entries feel free to fill them.
   * Also, I take any culinary herb you wish to write extensively on,
     including those not mentioned in this FAQ yet. Please follow the
     general layout of the entries - thanks.

Gardening:

   * 3.2 more herbs you can't get rid of once they're planted
   * 3.3 more on tall herbs
   * 3.x anything else on herb gardening you might think of.

Processing herbs

   * 4.x any other way to process herbs you might think of.

Sites to see

   * 5.1 more FTP sites.
   * 5.2 more WWW sites.

End of wishlist. If you do decide to add something tell me - I'll keep
track of who promises to do what so we won't have doubles.

==========

2 Herbs: growing, harvesting, using/preserving, and checking which you've
really got

-----
This is the main spot for information. Check this before posting yet
another question on curry plant... on the other hand every time somebody
asks for uses for mints some new ones pop up so keep asking for those. ;)

   * Repeating the structure of the herb entries:
        o 2.x.1 Growing ___
        o 2.x.2 Harvesting ___
        o 2.x.3 Using / preserving ___
        o 2.x.4 Which ___ do you have?

==========

2.1 Basil

Latin name: Ocimum basilicum, other Ocimum species.
=====
2.1.1 Growing basil
-----
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
Basil loves the sun and hates the cold & wind. If it drops below 50 degrees
at night, the leaves will yellow. When it warms up the new growth will be
green. If it doesn't get enough sun and stays in damp soil too long, it
will eventually die. The wind will bruise the leaves. So will rough
handling. Again, the new growth will be fine.

Very important to harden basil plants. Transplant shock may kill them. Set
the pots outside for 3-5 days (watch the night temps) before transplanting.

I use compost and occasionally organic fertilizer. Never had any bug
problems. A few caterpillars and rabbits, but there was plenty for everyone
in my patch.

-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney), in response to above:
I believe it is better to not transplant basil, i.e., it is better to put
seeds in the ground where you want it, when it is warm enough for them to
grow. They will quickly outstrip the transplants however carefully they
have been grown and hardened.

Yes, they do tend not to attract many bugs which is a surprise given their
good taste.

-----
From: carole@chenson.demon.co.uk (Carole Henson)
I am addicted to basil, really love it, even the smell is wonderful. I have
10 basil plants in my greenhouse at the moment, and two in the kitchen for
chucking into salad etc. You only need a couple of large handfuls of leaves
for a jar of pesto, so a couple of plants would do it. If you sow a few
seeds at 2 weekly intervals, you should have a constant supply.

-----
From: Dwight Sipler <dps@hyperion.haystack.edu>
There are several different varieties of basil. Mammoth basil has very
large leaves, although the leaves are somewhat savoyed (wrinkled).

I've had good luck with Genovese basil, which I get from Johnny's Selected
Seeds. No particular soil preparation, just normal garden soil, fertilized
every other year, limed as necessary (determined by pH test). I put in
about 600 plants and I always lose a dozen or so to cutworms, critters
etc., but it's not a big problem. I plant marigolds nearby since the
Japanese beetles seem to like them and they keep the beetles off the basil
plants.

-----
From: jmanton@standard.com (Jeanne Manton):
Opal Basil is probably one of our most favorite plants and I was delighted
when my favorite seed catalogue advertised a new purple variety this spring
- Red Rubin. While a hearty grower, I found a very high number of 'green'
starts and the mature plant resembles lemon verbena in shape and texture. I
made a batch of jelly from one harvest and not only was the color more of a
honey shade but it also captured and enhanced the vinegar (rice + wine)
flavor. The leaves are too 'chewy' to be sliced over tomatoes but can pass
the test when added to a cooked tomato sauce. Fortunately I also had a
Purple Ruffles plant for my daughters vinegar as so much of the pleasure is
derived from the lovely lavendar shade.

-----
>basil eaten to skeleton; more eaten each morning, no bugs evident?

From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
There is a caterpillar that seems often to like basil that lives under the
surface of the earth during the day. Gently disturb the top quarter or half
inch of dirt in a circle around the plant going out about four inches or so
and look for a dark gray circle about half to three quarters of an inch in
diameter that usually stays that way and sometimes opens up to get away
(depending on how deep a sleep it is in I guess :-)). If you find it,
squash it and hope. The only other predator I can see that would do what
you have is a lot of slugs so you would likely see them anyway. They can be
taken care of by all the standard beer, diatomaceous earth, etc. methods in
addition to hand picking.

There are few joys as great as finding one of those blasted caterpillars in
the ground after they have been eating your food, let me tell you.

-----
> basil wilting in the sun?

From: bogin@is2.nyu.edu (Josh Bogin)
Probably this is due to not enough water **and or possibly resulting from**
not enough room for the plants. If the plants are root-bound it really will
hardly matter how much you are watering them, since the pot would
presumably be too small to hold much water, the plant would keep drying
out, and also the roots probably get no nutrients. Give them some plant
food, and think about finding them more room, if this is the problem.

-----
From: wolf@gaia.caltech.edu (Wolf)
Here in Southern California, (Pasadena) our sweet Basil that "was" in full
sun started wilting one after the other. Every couple of days, another one
wilted. The sweet Basil we planted in part-shade (Morning shade, afternoon
full sun) is thriving, and the plants are giant. They make great pesto. On
the other hand, we have some purple Basil which is also in full sun, and it
is completely unaffected by the heat. All plants are getting really big,
despite frequent pinching. All plants get plenty of water, and the dirt
around the dying plants was plenty moist.

The instructions on seed packets are simply not meant for folks in the
Southwest.

Sweet basil is heat intolerant. It will do great in full sun if the
temperatures don't exceed 85-90 degrees on average. Any hotter, and it
starts wilting in full sun.

-----
> have basil in pot; can I plant it outside?

From: Debbie Golembiski <102522.1235@CompuServe.COM>
You sure can move your potted basil into the ground. Just cut it back a bit
first and try to move it with as much soil intact as possible.
Basil loves full sun, so pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sun
daily.

-----
> saw some basil for sale with huge healthy green leaves that put mine
> to shame.

From: wolf@gaia.caltech.edu (Wolf)
The guys who have these giant sweet basil plants feed them with Urea. Seems
to do the trick. Also, sweet basil doesn't like it too hot, and likes to
have moist soil. Make sure you pinch off any flowers before they go to
seed. If you follow these guidelines, you should get giant plants.

-----
> ...no basil sprouting - too wet for the last three weeks?

From: southsky@maui.net (Rick Giese):
Basil seeds will not germinate when they are constantly wet. I started mine
in flats protected from the winter rains here on Maui. Once transplanted to
the field, they did fine.

=====
2.1.2 Harvesting basil
-----
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
You can harvest basil leaves as soon as the plant has 3 sets of leaves.
Keep the plants branches shorter than 4 sets of leaves and you will
increase leaf production. Once it flowers, production drops. I've found the
taste stronger before flowering.

-----
From: mmorriso@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Mark David Morrison)
Basil leaf harvesting: pick all that you think that you will need for the
recipe that you are preparing. If you have a lot of basil and are freezing
basil for winter then just pick the big leaves. I use a lot of basil and
pick leaves from the plant almost daily. If they are small or big leaves
does not matter... the plant is the hardiest beast in my gardens. I think
it may be of alien origin.

Pinching back basil: Always pinch off and use those tops. The leaves will
really bush out on your basil when you do.

-----
From: kathleen.snyder@lunatic.com (Kathleen Snyder)
Pick all over. Don't strip the stems of all the leaves. Be careful not to
tear the stem when cutting off a leaf. I use scissors. Tearing can some
times strip the stem and damage it.

Pinching will make it fuller. Don't let it flower either. Pinch off the
flower buds the minute you see them coming.

-----
From: stlouins@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Dina)
I often just go out and pluck off as much as I need once the plants are
established--sometimes a third or more of the plant, depending on whether
I'm making salad, herbing vinegars, or harvesting some to dry. Pinching
back makes the plants bushier, and I'd definitely start cutting back when
the plants start to flower. They grow back quickly.

-----
From: David Perry <dperry@bbn.com>
The best method is to pinch them back at the main stem(s) a couple of times
early in their lives. This will create a bushier plant rather than the
single tree looking specimen.

Thereafter, just take the tips of the stems to keep the plant from going to
seed. You will notice the tips become very heavy with small pointier leaves
just before it goes to seed. Clip back any large main leaves when you
notice the secondary buds beginning to show along the main stem, or when
they get too big and seem to be sapping the rest of the plant (these leaves
are great to wrap steaks for the grill, snip for salads etc...mmmmm!)

I also found that the leaves are oilier and more fragrant early in the day
or at night. Of course, most of us don't use basil at 3 a.m.

Also, basil really doesn't have to be spaced out as much as the packet
literature states. I fill 1/2 barrels of basil every year. I thin out only
enough to keep full sun and air circulation on all plants.

=====
2.1.3 Using / preserving basil
-----
Also see Pesto, 4.9.2 below, and Basil jelly, 4.6.1 below.
-----
> ... alternatives for using pesto or fresh sweet basil?

From: jwr3150@tam2000.tamu.edu (Jason Wade Rupe)
I bake it right into bread sometimes.
I like a stir fry of basil and whatever with a basic simple sauce on rice.
Try using it fresh as a pizza topping.

-----
From: cogorno@netcom.com (Steve Cogorno)
Take GOOD quality tomatoes, preferably ones you've grown yourself :-) and
slice them. Top with fresh mozzarella whole basil leaves. A little
expensive because of the cheese, but it makes a very colorful and tasty
appetizer!

-----
From: french@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Kathy French)
If your basil plants aren't producing fast enough to give you a cup or two
of leaves at a time, you can pinch off stems and keep them with the ends of
the stems in clean water (change it every few days) at room temperature for
several days. Freezing the leaves doesn't work so well, because it will
make them mushy when they thaw, and it reduces their flavor as well.

You can also preserve basil by washing it carefully, drying it thoroughly,
packing it in good olive oil, and keeping it in the refrigerator. Then you
can use the leaves plus oil to make pesto fresh when you want it by adding
garlic, cheese, and pine nuts. I've tried this method and it works well,
although the basil turns somewhat dark in the process.

-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
You can make basil pesto and freeze it in cubes or patties and save it for
the winter when you have nothing fresh to use.

-----
From jmanton@standard.com (Jeanne Manton):
I use Genova Perfum Basil and throroughly wash the leaves in vegetable soap
(available at natural foods stores). Dry completely with paper towels, then
dice (I use a french knife). Pack into sterilized 1/2 pint jars: 1 layer of
fresh ground Parmesan, one layer of basil, one layer of fresh ground sea
salt. Continue layering process until the jar is nearly full. Cover with a
thin layer of extra virgin olive oil and seal. Store in the refrigerator (I
use the coldest shelf). I don't know how long this keeps because we will
use the entire jar within two months but my last really big supply was
still fresh after nine months. Can be used on everything except corn
flakes!

A blooming appetizer:

From: jmanton@standard.com (Jeanne Manton)

1 8 oz cream cheese (neuchaftel is too light but may be substituted)
1 8 oz cheve (creamed goat cheese)
1/8 tsp dried garlic chips, crushed
1 tsp minced (using knife) basil, perferably Perfum

Mix the above together using your hands and shape into a ball. Place on
plastic wrap and flatten. Generously sprinkle with fresh ground black
pepper. Decorate with herbs and flowers (sprig of tarragon, few blossoms
and stems of rosemary, johnny jump ups - whatever) and wrap airtight.
Refrigerate overnight and serve either with a strong cracker or baguette
slices.

This is a real favorite when I take it to work although one of my
co-workers suggested I had dropped the cheese ball in the driveway just
after the lawn had been mowed.

Note: When I make these for Christmas I use sprigs of rosemary and three or
so red peppercorns.

-----
BASIL OIL
-----
From: Laurie Otto <lotto@ptialaska.net>
Someone asked about drying basil. In my opinion, it wastes flavor to dry
basil. Better to put it in the food processor with olive oil, make a paste
and freeze it for later use. Or try making salted oiled basil leaves:

Note: Even though a lot of oil is used for this it can be cleaned off
before using the basil so please don't discount this in the interest of
maintaining a low-fat lifestyle! The oil is merely a preservative and it
does keep the basil absolutely fresh for months!

Carefully clean *and dry* each leaf. Use a salad spinner or swing the
leaves around in a clean, dry towel for a few minutes. Pat dry, just to be
sure...:) This is really important, so please be thorough! Next pour a
little virgin- or extra-virgin olive oil into a sealable crock, preferably
a stone one. The small kind used to house cheesespreads are ideal! Sprinkle
a little salt on the oil. Add a single layer of basil leaves, careful not
to overlap them. Cover with a thin layer of oil and sprinkle with more
salt. Do this until the crock is full, then top off with oil and salt.
Seal. Store in the refrigerator and it will keep indefinitely. To use the
basil, simply take out what you need *with a very clean utensil* and, if
you like, wash it well to remove the salt and oil.

-----
From: Melissa_C._Davidson@city-net.com (Melissa C. David)
I tried to make basil oil the other day. I had a sterile, sealed bottle,
basil from the yard, and olive oil. Put the herbs in the bottle, completely
covered with oil plus a few inches. Supposed to be good for many months but
the basil molded up within 2 weeks !! Help!

From: lgf0@Lehigh.EDU (Lesleigh G. Federinic) to above:
I always refrigerate mine. Only once did it mold on me in the frig but then
I had it there for several months during the winter and hadn't been using
it. I use it up in the summer. It's good for frying zucchini and mushrooms
as well as making angel hair pasta sauce.

From: Yasha@bioch.tamu.edu (Yasha Hartberg)
I'm not sure having never done it myself, but it seems a bit strange to
start with a sterile bottle and then add non-sterile leaves and oil to it
and expect anything less than mold, bacteria, etc. I wonder if you might
not try heating the mixture up a bit before sealing the bottle?

-----
From: aa100465@dasher.csd.sc.edu (J Michel)
For years I've been preserving end of the summer basil leaves in olive oil
with salt (lots - don't know how much - sprinkled on successive additions
of leaves and oil to cover). The leaves turn black in the oil, but not
moldy, and thru the winter I fish out a couple from time to time to use in
cooking. I store it in the refrig. and in summer I toss out the salt which
has settled to the bottom of the jar along with the last of the oil.

I am about to be a convert to the Ice cube basil/oil pesto storage method
in order to eliminate the salt. However, I'd suggest experimenting with
adding salt, or trying refrigeration.

-----
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
The key is moisture. If there's moisture in the plant (as there is in basil
leaves -- a lot of it) you're likely to get mold when you make basil oil.

If you want to make basil oil, grind the basil into a paste, add to the
olive oil to steep for a while in the refrigerator and then filter the
mixture.

-----
HeK to above: You'll have the taste in the oil, but the moisture will still
be in the leaves, which are filtered out.

-----
DRYING BASIL
-----
> drying basil - how long?

From: Kim Pratt <pratt@olympus.net>
The time factor really depends on where you hang it to dry, what the
temperature is. Mine usually takes about 2 or 3 weeks to dry. That is
hanging upside down with stems tied together in a bundle, in the kitchen.
If you have a dusty house, after tying together in a bundle put inside a
small paper bag that has been punched full of small holes and hang that
(tie the top of the bag to the top of the stems so your herbs are still
hanging upside down).

From: evedex@hookup.net (Eve Dexter)
My dehydrator has a fan and the drying takes only 1 1/2 -2 hours, depending
upon the humidity of the day of course. I suggest you start in the am and
keep a close eye on the process - it shouldn't take too much longer in your
model.

=====
2.1.4 Which basil do you have?
-----
From: farmermj@bham.ac.uk (Malcolm Farmer):
Some suppliers offer different varieties of basil. Chiltern Seeds in the
UK, for example, has about a *dozen* different varieties. Two I have
growing now are:

Lemon basil - thinner, smaller, rather pointed leaves when compared with
regular basil. Has strong lemony odour: when you tear up the leaves the
smell is gorgeous, somewhere between mint and basil.

Thai basil - similar in appearance to lemon basil leaves, but slightly
darker with stems having a purplish tinge. Scent is somewhat like regular
basil, but much spicier and more fragrant. A friend says her Thai cooking
using regular basil never tastes quite the same as authentic Thai, so I'm
going to give her some of the Thai stuff to see if that's the reason....

-----
>> The basils I grow are regular sweet basil, Spicy Globe, lemon basil,
cinnamon basil, licorice basil, and holy basil. ... snip .... I've tried
the holy basil in tea, but don't care much for it. I've read about using it
as an incense/smudge ingredient.
>have you tried using the holy basil in Thai cooking? I've seen a number of
Thai recipes that call for it. From what I've read, it's a hot (spicy)
variety. I've been thinking of growing it, since I haven't found a source
to buy it.

From: culinary@richters.com:
I thought I should jump in here. There is a lot of confusion in the herb
world about "holy" basil. Most of the seeds I have seen on the market is
actually a hybrid of undetermined parentage. It is NOT Ocimum sanctum, the
"sacred" basil known to the Indians as "tulsi" which many people assume.

We call "holy" basil, "spice" basil, following a convention established by
Helen Darrah in her monograph on basils. I actually don't like her choice
of name because it confuses newbies who think that this is the regular
basil for regular basil use, but at least it is better than "holy" basil
which everybody gets confused with O. sanctum.

If you want the real McCoy, you need to insist on O. sanctum. There are
several varieties (purple, green and probably others) and it does turn up
in seeds from Thailand where the plant is grown for use in cooking.

Now, there is also such a thing as "Thai basil" which yet another animal
altogether. If you are looking for the basil used in Thai and Vietnamese
cooking, you will want this. Now, some companies (including us) have in the
past sold "anise basil" as being equivalent to "Thai basil" but we now know
that this is not true.

Conrad Richter

==========

2.2 Curry plant / Curry leaf

Latin name:
Curry Plant: Helichrysum angustifolium;
Curry Leaf: Murraya Koenigii
=====
2.2.4 Which curry plant / curry leaf do you have?
-----
From: kpmglib@netcom.com (Information Services)
The "Curry Plant" is an herb, Helichrysum angustifolium, from the family
Compositae. I believe it came from Africa or Australia, so it's tropical,
and probably perennial; although in North Texas you may need to grow it as
an annual or in a container (probably not frost-hardy). The name "curry
plant" originated from this herb's pungent smell, which is reminiscent of
some curries or curry powders; however it is not used in curry. I believe
that it is widely cultivated in the U.K., and is used there mostly in
salads, or mixed with cream-cheese.

There actually is a plant that produces what is known as the "curry leaf",
and which *is* used in the preparation of some curries (much the same way
as bay leaf is used). The leaves of this plant, a woody tree from the Asian
sub-continent called Murraya Koenigii, also have a strong curry-like smell,
and can be purchased dried at most Asian markets. The tree itself has only
recently been cultivated commercially in this country, and is carried by
only a very few nurseries. It is still considered an exotic, and commands a
premium price.

-----
From Emme@worldnet.att.net:
What is known to American & British cooks as "curry" is actually a spice
mix that varies by the dish being created.

==========

2.3 Sage

Latin name: Salvia officinalis, other Salvia species.
Salvia elegans - Pineapple sage
Salvia dorisana - Melon-scented Sage

=====
2.3.1 Growing sage
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Sage is a perennial here in zone 5. It's a very easy-to-grow plant. Half a
day of sun, reasonable soil, and don't let it get too awfully dry.

The main problem with sage is to keep it under control. I've never had any
insect problems with it. Pinch small plants to make them branch, then let
them grow to harvesting size. Don't let stems get so tall that they lay
down, or you'll end up with a twisted, woody mess in a couple of years.
-----
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans)
-----
From: Jennifer Zahn <jszahn1@facstaff.wisc.edu>

I have a pineapple sage plant, and since last summer, the stems have become
tall and woody. Now all but one are dead, and I'm afraid to trim back the
remaining remnant. Any tips on how I can revive this plant? Ideal
conditions? It was inherited and I never learned much about it.
And what do woody stems mean, anyway?

-----
From: Harold <orchids@communique.net>

Hi, Jennifer. If the plant were mine I would cut all of the stems back
close to the ground. New stems will grow from soil level and provide you
with lots of vigorous new growth. You may want to root the tips of the
remaining growth. Pineapple Sage roots very easily and can make a
substantial plant in just one season. If your plant grows too spindly you
can always pinch or cut the stems back part way to cause them to bush out
more.
Woody stems just mean they are old.
BTW, I'm surprised you have living tissue on your plant, considering how
far north you are. Here in southern Louisiana mine die back to the soil
almost every year.

-----
From: Joe VanDerBos <joevanderbos@bdt.com>

Pinapple Sage will look better cut back to the ground and given a chance to
try all over again.
Pineapple Sage: The indestructible filler plant

-----
From: weed <avril_tolley@berlex.com>

Pineapple sage routinely gets woody, so prune away. It may be that it just
looks dead. This sage, Salvia elegans, is very easy to root, so if you're
worried about the rest of the plant, take several cuttings from what you
think is the remaining living stem and pot them up. You can dip the end in
something like "Rootone" if you like, but I find they root without it. They
will look dead for a while, and the top may actually die. Eventually you'll
get new leaves near the bottom. Pineapple sage benefits mightily from hard
pruning, although I never go below about a foot and 1/2, because I just
hate to prune. It's a little tender, so sometimes, if I think it may be
exposed to frosts in winter, I'll root a bunch of cuttings and overwinter
them to be sure I have some the next year. I usually end up giving these
away, because mine generally makes it. Hummingbirds love this, as they do
most sage. Really nice plant. Mine is by my front walk, so I have to brush
up against it to get to the garage.

=====
2.3.2 Harvesting sage
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Harvest sage before it blooms. After the dew dries in the morning, cut the
stems, leaving a leaf or two at the bottom. I air-dry my sage, stringing
the stems on a strong thread and hanging it in a breeze.

It will dry leathery rather than crisp, because the leaves are so thick.
Strip the dry leaves from the stems and place the leaves into a jar. Chop
or rub the leaves into powder when you need to use them.

To use fresh sage, clip off enough of a branch to get the number of leaves
you need, strip off the leaves, and chop them up if desired.

=====
2.3.3 Using / preserving sage
-----
> I have a very healthy sage plant in my garden but I don't know what to
use the herb for, except of course for stuffing a chicken.

From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.)
Stuff a few leaves into the cavity of a trout. Tie with string, baste with
a little oil and grill. Use only 1 or 2 leaves per fish otherwise the sage
will overpower the fish.

Chop fine, lightly saute in olive oil with minced garlic. Add a little
chopped parsley & toss with spaghetti or other pasta. Serve as a side dish
to grilled chicken, fish or meat.

Toss a few sage leaves with quartered onion and flattened garlics into clay
pot chicken.

-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
We use sage for stuffing turkeys in addition to chickens, if you have
turkeys in the UK. We also use it in foccacia... ...Sage pesto is another
way to use large quantity of sage and it can be frozen to be used in the
winter. You might use walnuts or pecans instead of the traditional pignoli
nuts in pesto as sage is stronger than basil.
It goes well with pork or chicken. You can also roast eggplant and sweet
red pepper and food process them together with sage for a nice dip to be
used with homemade French bread.

-----
From: ag500@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Peter Mortimer):
It also makes a great addition to just about any green salad, either tossed
in as whole leaves or cut up in small pieces.

From: rgyure@aol.com (RGyure):
I discovered last summer that garden sage makes a beautiful and fragrant
addition to fresh cut flower bouquets I bring in from the garden. I grow
more than I can use in cooking (who uses that much sage?)-- and the pale
green, white-frosted somewhat sparkly leaves make delightful foliage for
cutting-- and are long-lasting.

From: vshafer216@aol.com (VShafer216):
I recently tried a really good recipe that uses fried sage--it tastes
great. Broil chicken thighs (marinate first). When done, fry several leaves
of sage in butter; this takes less than a minute.

Grate cheese on top of the chicken thighs. Spoon some of the hot butter
over the chicken (this melts the cheese) and put one or two sage leaves on
top of each piece of chicken. Fried sage tastes good even without the
chicken.

From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Dried and added to a fire at Thanksgiving or Christmas, it adds a nice
Holiday scent to the house.

From: lebasil@ag.arizona.edu (Leslie Basel)
Sage jelly is just terrific with game, lamb, even a Christmas goose. The
recipe is just the same as any other herb jelly (and it requires quite a
bit of culinary sage). (Jelly recipe 4.6.1 below).

-----
From: melatchley@aol.com (MelAtchley)
Decorative: Leaves in wreaths and nosegays.

Culinary: Flower in salads or infuse for a light balsamic tea. Leaves can
be mixed with onion for poultry stuffing. Cook with rich, fatty meats such
as pork, duck and sausage. Combine with other strong flavors: wrap around
tender liver and saute in butter; blend into cheeses. Make sage vinegar and
sage butter.

Household: Dried leaves in linen to discourage insects.

Medicinal: Leaves aids in digestion and is antiseptic, antifungal and
contains estrogen. Helps to combat diarrhea. An infusion of sage leaves and
a meal can help digestion.

-----
From: baldwin@frodo.colorado.edu (Dan Baldwin)
I had sage mashed potatoes as a side dish at a five star restaurant last
week--they were really good ! There were flecks of sage scattered all
through the potatoes--Can't wait to try it myself.

-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Here's an oddity: sage makes a good insect repellent! Put a handful of sage
sprigs and 3 mint sprigs in a pot. Pour over them 1 quart of boiling water
and allow to steep. When cool, strain out the herbs and add 1 quart of
rubbing alcohol. To use, splash or spray onto hair, skin, clothes. It won't
stay on if you're sweating heavily or swimming, but otherwise it's great.

-----
From: engels@wibla.mv.att.com (engels s.m.):
Sage dries very nicely and looks pretty. Bundle 8-10 sprigs, tie, hang to
dry and put a red bow on it at Xmas. Use as a decoration for wrapped gifts
or give as an small culinary gift.

-----
From: mv-martinek@nwu.edu (Marie Martinek)
I have something that was labeled "Fruit Sage" and a "Pineapple Sage"
(Salvia sp.). I snip off leaves, dry them, and make sage tea with about 1
part crumbled sage leaves to 3 parts black tea. They're "tender
perennials", so here in Chicago area I keep them in pots which I sink into
my garden, yank up just before frost (disentangling the groping runners),
knock out of the pot and root-prune before cutting most of it down and
setting it in a sunny window to survive the winter. It also produces
wonderfully-smelling red flowers, which I also dry for tea (if I don't just
suck the nectar out and eat it!)

-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)

Focaccia with Sage

Deriving its name from the Latin word focus, meaning "hearth," focaccia
evolved from the unleavened hearth cake eaten during the Middle Ages. It
was made by patting the dough into a flat round and cooking it directly on
a hot stone or under a mound of hot ashes. While it has become something of
a national dish, this popular bread's true home is the area around Genoa.
It seems as if every seaside resort on the Italian Riviera has its own
special focaccia. Whether soft or crisp, thick or thin, the dough is
typically flavored with local herbs and olive oil.

Sponge:
0.5 cup warm water (105 to 115 deg.F)
1 tsp. dry yeast
0.75 cup unbleached all purpose flour

Place 0.5 cup water in large bowl. Stir in yeast. Let stand until yeast
dissolves and mixture is cloudy, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour. Cover
with plastic. Let stand until very bubbly, about 45 minutes.

Focaccia:
1 cup warm water (105 to 115 deg.F)
1 tsp. dry yeast
0.25 cup plus 2 tbs. olive oil
3.25 cups unbleached all purpose flour
3 tbs. finely chopped fresh sage

Place 1 cup water in small bowl. Stir in yeast. Let stand until yeast
dissolves and mixture is cloudy, about 10 minutes. Stir in dissolved yeast
mixture and 0.25 cup olive oil into sponge in large bowl. Stir in 1 cup
flour. Stir in 2 tbs. chopped sage. Add remaining flour in 2 batches,
mixing until well blended after each additions. Turn out dough onto lightly
floured surface. Knead dough until soft and velvety, about 10 minutes.

Oil large bowl. Add dough, turning to coat with oil. Cover with plastic.
Let dough rise in warm area until doubled, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Oil
11x17 inch baking sheet. Punch down dough. Transfer to prepared sheet.
Using oiled hands, press out dough to cover bottom of pan. Cover dough with
kitchen towel. Let stand 10 minutes (dough will shrink). Press out dough
again to cover pan. Cover with towel. Let rise in warm draft free area
until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, position rack in center of oven. Place baking stone on rack and
preheat oven to 425 deg.F.

Using fingertips, press dough all over, creating dimples. Drizzle dough
with 2 tbs. oil. Sprinkle with 1 tbs. sage.

Place pan directly on pizza stone. Spray oven with water from spray bottle.
Bake until focaccia is golden and top is crisp, spraying oven with water
twice more during first 10 minutes, about 25 minutes total. Transfer bread
to rack. Cool slightly. Serve bread warm or at room temperature.

Makes one foccacia, 4 servings. Per serving, 400 calories, 13 g protein, 87
g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 3 g fiber, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg
cholesterol and 0 mg sodium.

Bon Appetit, May 1995

-----
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans)
-----
>It's so smelly! How did ma nature ever get such a sweet sniffy plant? I
love that stuff! Now the question: what do i do with it?

From: herblady@super.zippo.com (Rastapoodle)

It is great chopped fine and mixed with cream cheese and crushed pineapple
for a dip/spread with crackers.
Also, crush leaves and let them steep with fruit to flavor a fruit salad.
A sprig is a great garnish for an iced tea, especially if the red flowers
are on the sprig.
It makes a great iced tea in itself -- steep as you would any tea.
Dry and mix with potpourri.
If you like S. elegans, you will *flip* for S. dorisana, "Melon-scented
Sage", available from Logee's Greenhouse. I'm addicted to both varieties.

-----

From: "Martin Witchard (Cat)" <mwitchar@metz.une.edu.au>

How about adding some leaves to a cooling drink? - would go perfectly with
lemonade! Also (and I've not tried this one), lay some leaves out on the
base of the cake tin before cooking - the 'taste' should infuse up through
the mixture. Anyway, there's a couple of suggestions,

-----

From: es051447@orion.yorku.ca (Joseph St.Lawrence)

mmmmmm... tea.
oh yeah, you can eat the flowers too.

=====
2.3.4 Which sage do you have?
-----
There are a few other plants that are called Sage and that taste very
bitter. If your sage is called Artemisia in Latin forget the cooking part.
If it is Salvia try a leave or two and if the taste is OK just go on and
use it.
To illustrate:

From: joehanso@badlands.NoDak.edu (Joey L Hanson)
Subject: Re: What's the worse thing you ever ate?

Ever try sage brush tea? Kind of tastes like you're drinking insect
repellent would be the closest thing I can relate to it. Damndest thing
though it made ya spit blue kind of like a smurf trying to get the taste
outta your mouth.

==========

2.4 Chives

Latin name:
Chives: Allium schoenoprasum.
Chinese chives: Allium tuberosum.
=====
2.4.1 Growing chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)

I started with a small pot from a discount store, planted it in moderately
poor soil that got about 1/2 day sun. It went crazy! Grew big, made flowers
and seeds, the next year the seeds came up and (repeat previous line over
and over and over ... ). I now have about 6 square feet of chives. I don't
even water them.
After they blossom and the flowers dry, you can collect the drying flowers
and shake out the seeds to plant elsewhere. The blossom stems should be
removed to prevent their being harvested by accident, as they are rather
woody and tough. They'll dry out anyway, and should be removed to keep the
plant looking nice.
A funny thing happened with that first plant. It was next to a rose bush
infested with aphids. When I planted the chives, the aphids disappeared.
Then I got a fruit tree that had problems with aphids. I scattered some
chive seeds, and the aphids disappeared again.
Chives are so easy to grow that I don't think I'll ever be without them
again. To get a start, find some chive seeds or a pot of chives.
To grow them indoors, put on a sunny windowsill and water when the soil
gets a bit dry.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:

Chives are a very hardy perennial of the same genus as onions, leeks and
garlic. It makes a great container plant and does well indoors if given
adequate light. A 5-inch pot of chives should be divided and repotted every
spring if the clump has spread enough.
Chives like rich, moist well-drained soil with a pH between 6 and 8. It
likes full sun but will tolerate partial shade.
The seeds germinate easily in 10 to 12 days, but the plants grow and spread
slowly at first. It is quicker to obtain a division of a clump from
someone. Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, in small sparse groups spaced about 12
inches apart all around to create clumps quicker, or plant seeds singly.
Clumps grown outdoors should be divided every 3 or 4 years. Chives make a
good companion plant for beets but should not be planted with beans,
carrots, or tomatoes.

=====
2.4.2 Harvesting chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)

Chives are best harvested with a scissors or sharp knife. Cut the blade as
close to the ground as possible without injuring other blades. It's best to
cut individual blades unless you are shearing the whole plant. This leaves
the newly sprouted blades to grow bigger for your next harvest.
If you're harvesting during or after blooming time, watch out for those
blossom stems. They're tough and woody.
Rinse the blades, gather together in bunches, and cut across with a sharp
knife into the size you need.
When chives are in flower, you can snip off the flowers and use them before
they start to fade.

-----
From: ?

I cut my chives back to the ground about three times each summer. I've
found that this forces them to send up a whole bunch of replacement shoots.
I usually wait to pick a few of the flowers to include in arrangements.

-----
> My chives are flowering. Should I pinch off the flowers so they will not
start to die for the winter?

From: karyn.siegel-maier@kotl.mhv.net

Chives, if well established in the garden, tend to flower in early spring,
and sometimes again in mid-summer. The chive blossoms make an excellent
vinegar, and can be used in baking if pulled apart. I don't cut my chives
back, but let the seed fall to the ground resulting in more chives the
following year.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:

Cut off stems to about 2 inches tall, to encourage new growth. Stalks that
flower tend to be rather tough and bitter, so it's better to clip off
flower heads as they form, although they are a pleasant lavender color.

=====
2.4.3 Using / preserving chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)

Chives dry nicely, but lose much of their flavor in the process. If you
want chives in winter, grow a pot on the windowsill.
Chives can be used in any recipe that calls for chopped green onions. This
gives a slightly different, somewhat milder flavor.
Chopped chives make a wonderful addition to salads. I use them instead of
onions when the sweet onions aren't available, because the regular onions
give me terrible heartburn.
Chive flowers are also wonderful in salads. They are both pretty and
delicious, with a peppery-oniony flavor.
Chopped chives are great with potatoes. Baked potatoes with sour cream and
chives is a classic, but you don't need the sour cream. Just baked potatoes
with chives is tasty. Perhaps add a squirt of lemon juice! Also try chopped
chives on top of mashed potatoes, or mixed in.
Chopped chives make a wonderful garnish for almost any non-sweet dish, and
add a mild onion flavor as well.

-----
From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)

It is also possible to make chive pesto.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:

Mix chopped chives into cream cheese, sour cream, cottage cheese, or
butter. They are great with almost every kind of potato dish, and in
salads. Chives is used in vichyssoise, asparagus and cauliflower soups.
They can be used in egg dishes such as deviled eggs, omelets, and scrambled
eggs. The small bulbs of chives can be used in sausage or pickled like
small onions.
Chives are difficult to store dry due to a high moisture retention, but
they can be chopped and frozen to be used as if fresh.

Potato Casserole

8 large potatoes, peeled cut and cooked
8 oz sour cream
8 oz cream cheese
1/3 c chives

Blend all together, and if your family will let you, refrigerate overnight.
Bake at 350 for 34-40 min or until warmed throughout.
The stem/leaves of chives have high amounts of vitamin A and vitamin C, as
well as some iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, thiamin and
niacin.

-----
From jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow):

Chive Vinegar

When your chives (esp. garlic chives, yummmmmy) are in bloom take four or
five of the prettiest stalks w/heads and put them in a clear jar, cover
w/white vinegar, cover, and stand in a dark cupboard for about a week. You
will have pinkish vinegar w/a heavenly flavour. DO, however, watch out that
the stalks do not have ants!

==========

2.5 Saffron

Latin name: Crocus sativus.
=====
2.5.1 Growing saffron
-----
From: rnold@sanewssa.mnet.uswest.com (Robert G. Nold)
Crocus sativus comes up and blooms without autumn rain in Denver, and grows
throughout the winter here, too. Like all fall-blooming crocus (of which
there are many species), they go dormant in summer.

=====
2.5.2 Harvesting saffron
-----
From: kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr):
...it is the threads that you would collect and dry. There are three of
them (the stigmas) per crocus flower. (Over a million crocus flowers
produce a pound of saffron- phew!)

From: lpdavies@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us (Leslie Paul Davies):
In planning your planting, estimate 6 mature plants will provide the
stigmas for one small recipe.

=====
2.5.4 Which saffron do you have?
-----
From: chaseway@nbnet.nb.ca (wayne chase):
I have recently heard of a substitute for saffron. Dried Marigolds. Just
air dry well and grind to powder. Use twice the amount of marigold as
saffron to get same result.

-----
From: melnick@stsci.edu (Rita Melnick):
Saffron comes from Crocus sativus, the saffron crocus. It is a fall
blooming crocus. Each flower contains 3 red threads (stigma) that you pick,
then dry, for culinary use. Be sure to get ONLY Crocus sativus, not the
other fall-blooming crocuses, as they are NOT edible.

As for the marigolds, I'm not sure if the above advice applies to all
varieties of marigolds, but I do know that it is true of the pot marigold,
also known as Calendula. It gives the yellow coloring of saffron, but not
the saffron taste. Turmeric is also a yellowing substitute for saffron. But
nothing else tastes like saffron!

==========

2.6 Zucchini flowers

Latin name: Cucurbita pepo.
=====
2.6.3 Using zucchini flowers
-----
From: Joep@reol.com
Zucchini flowers battered and fried are far superior to anything else you
can do with zucchini. Mix water, flour, salt & pepper to a pancake
consistency. If you want a fluffier batter add baking powder. Deep fry and
eat them while hot. Tastes like a hint of Zucchini with creamy texture and
cheese quality. 4 Zucchini plants is 3 too many :)

-----
From: bmilhol@sas.ab.ca (Billie)

I pick them when they are wilted and stuff them with seasoned cooked rice,
put them in a casserole dish with a little seasoned chicken or vegetable
broth and bake. Grate a little cheese on 3 min before taking out of oven.
Beautiful and tasty.

==========

2.7 Chamomile

Latin names:
German chamomile: Matricaria recutita (M.chamomilla)
Roman Chamomile: Chamaemelum nobile (Anthemis nobilis)
English Chamomile: Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague'
=====
2.7.1 Growing chamomile
-----
From: Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>
German chamomile is an annual that reaches 1 to 2 feet tall and is grown
from seed. It prefers a moist sandy soil with a pH between 6 and 8.5, and
full sun. Plant outdoors as early in the spring as possible. If seeds are
planted on June 1, flowers should appear in late July or early August.
Seedlings transplant easily when one to two inches tall.
Center of flower head is hollow.

English chamomile is a low-growing perennial that reaches 1 foot in height,
propagated by seed, cuttings, or root division. It does well in a slightly
acid to neutral soil with good drainage and full sun, but does not do well
in hot, dry weather. Growing English chamomile in rich soil produces
abundant foliage but few flowers.
Center of flower head is solid. Chamomile makes a good companion plant for
broccoli.

-----
> chamomile as groundcover - any experiences?

Anne_E._Comer@kamilche.wa.com (Anne E. Comer)
Chamomile is not usually the recommended choice for *HUGE* areas. It is
sometimes used in mixtures. By itself it is best used in smallish areas
where there will not be heavy foot traffic. It can stand some walking on
and in fact that is one reason that it is used. When trodden on it releases
a fragrance that is very pleasant to many people.

From: Denise Henry <denise@gromet.demon.co.uk>
Remember chamomile is not a grass!! This means that selective lawn
weedkillers don't work. Make sure ground is well prepared with no perennial
weeds and keep the site hand weeded in the first year until the plants grow
together, after that you may still need to hand weed two or three times a
year. A chamomile lawn is something special, but you can tell it was
invented by people of a by-gone age with lots of money and a large supply
of garden laborers. Try it in a small area by all means but only if you are
prepared for some hard work.
(PS. I think it is worth the effort.)

-----
From: naomib@sco.COM (Naomi Brokaw)
I like it, but it's not as carefree as some make it sound. I planted it
last year (check the sections in the nursery where they sell herbs in
flats). I was worried about mowing it before it got established, so I was
going to wait until the cooler weather. Of course, this year, "cooler
weather" meant about 7 months of rain (I'm just south of you, in Santa
Cruz), so I could mow. The chamomile reached up, up, sending sun-seeking
stems into my lavender, rock roses, rosemary, and yarrow. By the time I
finally found the time and weather to mow, it was way too high, so I had to
clip down by hand. That meant taking out most of the green stems and
leaving the brown mat underneath. However, it did grow back the green
within a few weeks, much faster than I feared.

It also has a tendency to die in patches, leaving brown again. Ugly while
it lasts, but if you pull out the brown, the green will close in again in a
few weeks.

I like the smell, but a lot of people find it cloying. On the other hand,
you only smell it if you walk on it or cut it.

I tried mowing it a couple of weeks ago, with our rotary mower. Only a
partial success. Our mower, which is probably dull, though sharp enough for
the weeds out back, tends to pull up some of the chamomile clumps, instead
of cutting them cleanly.

All in all, I'll use it again, but be aware of the drawbacks before you
embrace it. It's a walkable ground-cover with a pleasant color that is
nowhere near as thirsty as grass. Oh, it doesn't do well in medium to heavy
shade. And bees love the flowers, so if you don't want a lot of bees (I
love them), don't plant a lot of chamomile.

-----
From: Kate Borley <kab1004@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Re: Chamomile lawns: I saw a chamomile seat in the Cambridge University
Botanical Gardens, it was a stone base with chamomile growing on the top in
a wooden box and a wooden chair back. Apparently the Elizabethans invented
these seats which they liked because a pleasing smell is given off by the
crushed chamomile when the seat is used.

HeK comment: Now I'd like to know how they kept their behinds dry after
watering the chamomile... (biig grin)

=====
2.7.2 Harvesting Chamomile
-----
From: Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>
Harvest and dry flowers of both species.

=====
2.7.3 Using / preserving Chamomile
-----
From: Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>
Chamomile tea: one pint boiling water to 1/2 ounce flowers, steep 10
minutes. Strain. Add honey, sugar, milk or cream as desired.

Hair rinse: steep dried flowers in hot water, cool infusion. Strain.

-----
> I've been told that a chamomile infusion used in the hair will bring out
highlights. Does anyone have a recipe for this? Thanks!

From: Graham@fragrant.demon.co.uk (Graham Sorenson)
Two methods come to mind immediately.
One is to get some chamomile tea (loose or bags) and make a strong
infusion. Or about five drops of Chamomile essential oil in a bowl of
water. Then rinse hair with the result leaving for a while before rinsing
out.

From: jrogow@ridgecrest.ca.us (Judith Rogow)
Chamomile Tea - very strong - is a wonderful hair rinse for shine and a
glint of sunlight.

From: Annette
>.. seeking chamomile recipe for lightening hair..
I'm Annette using another person's number but I thought I'd respond to your
question. Basically, just make a good strong tea with chamomile and put
into a pout where you can stick your head in. Let tea cool for awhile and
then stick your head in (can you read upside down?) and stay for 5-10
minutes, do weekly and hopefully you will see lightening.

HeK comment: You need to strain the liquid _before_ putting your head in
it, for all above methods. Otherwise you'll be occupied for a week or so,
combing out the flowers...

=====
2.7.4 Which chamomile do you have?
-----
From: Anne_E._Comer@kamilche.wa.com (Anne E. Comer)
The German chamomile, Matricaria recutita is an annual and will reseed
itself. Obviously this means that it flowers. It is probably the best kind
if you want to harvest the flowers for tea.

Roman Chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile, is perennial, probably the most used
form for lawns also flowers.

English Chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague', is non-flowering and is
very good for lawns and pathways but it must be grown from cuttings as
there is no flower, thus no seed.

==========

2.8 Coriander/Cilantro/Culantro

Latin name: Coriander/Cilantro: Coriandrum sativum
Culantro / Puerto Rican coriander / Spiny coriander: Eryngium foetidum (see
2.8.4)
Vietnamese coriander: Polygonum odoratum (see 2.8.4)
=====
2.8.1 Growing coriander/cilantro
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Coriander is a hardy, strong smelling annual native to southern Europe. It
may reach up to 4 feet in height when grown outdoors.

Coriander needs full sun and plenty of moisture, and the soil should be
deep, well-drained, moderately rich with a pH between 6 and 8.

Coriander is easily grown from seed, germinating in one or two weeks, and
self sows well in the garden. Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, and thin
seedlings to 8-12 inches apart. Sow seeds directly into the garden in the
early spring, or into deep pots; coriander does not transplant well due to
its taproot.

-----
>I've read that the best way to deal with bolting is to do several
plantings over a season.

From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt)
I would agree.

Start a few cilantro plants each month, harvest the leaves before they
bolt, and then sacrifice most of the plants before they flower. Leave a few
to flower and set seed - the flowers are very attractive to ladybugs, green
lacewings, and other beneficial (predatory) insects.

I've found that having a few cilantro plants flowering around the garden
provides an excellent defense against aphids.

-----
> Does anyone know what conditions I should avoid to keep the cilantro from
going to seed?

From: ?:
- If you plant the stuff really close together you'll probably get less
bolting.

From: eaplatt@worm.hooked.net (Elizabeth Platt):
Don't let it get too hot--like lettuce, it's sensitive to heat. But,
cilantro is an annual, so most pros advise planting several batches in
succession, so that there's always some that isn't going to seed.

By the way, if you've gotten far along enough to worry about it going to
seed, congratulations. All my cilantro is devoured, pronto, by the slugs
and snails as soon as the first tiny leaves appear. Tastiest seedlings in
the garden....

From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
To avoid bolting, the hotter the weather the more it should be in the
shade. There are also varieties that are designed to produce leaves and
some designed to produce seeds.

-----
>I've been trying to grow cilantro (Chinese parsley, coriander) for several
years so that I can use the leaves in Mexican and Chinese recipes.
>However, all I ever get are a few leaves, then they go into business
making flowers and seeds. I never get big bunches of lush, leafy growth as
I've seen in produce departments of grocery and natural foods stores.
>So far I've tried the following: planting in very early spring / planting
later / fertilizing / not fertilizing / using seeds of plants that were
hybridized for more leaf growth
>Has anyone been successful in growing lush cilantro? If so, what are your
secrets?

From: Jaime/WildFire Farm <jknoble@INTERSERV.COM>
First, if you want a continuing supply of cilantro, you should succession
plant about every 3 weeks. I know you said you've used seed that is
hybridized for more leaf growth, but here's the following info anyway.

To the more basic question of bolting - you need to get "slow-bolt"
cilantro. There are two types: slow-bolt and regular. The regular is
generally grown for seed, hence the speed to seed. The slow-bolt is grown
for the leaves like you want. It still bolts pretty fast, though.

That's why the succession planting. I always use Shepherd's (I have no
association with them other than as a consumer) because I find I get nearly
100% germination rates & theirs is the slowest to bolt of all I've found.
[If anyone's found a slower bolt seed, I'd love to know about it.]

Look at the cilantro in the store, if it has roots attached you will see
that it is only 10 - 12" high. It pretty much all bolts just about then. I
grow cilantro for commercial use (as well as a lot for my own use) and
generally pull it at about 12". I always pull it, not cut it because it
keeps much better with the roots on and because it leaves space for the
next planting. I do fertilize lightly once just after the first true leaves
appear. It grows nicely in sandy loamy soil. I'm experimenting a little
this year with light shade to keep it cooler in order to see if I can slow
down the bolt even more without losing anything. It works well with
lettuce, so I'm giving it a try. I'll let you know my experiment results in
a month or so.

=====
2.8.2 Harvesting coriander / cilantro
-----
From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt)
In my experience, the best leaves are the dense, wide ones which grow close
to the ground. Once the plant begins to even _think_ about flowering, it
throws up a vertical stalk, and starts putting out leaves which are much
thinner and lacier. These leaves aren't anywhere near as tasty as the early
foliage.

I've heard some people compare the taste of cilantro to Lifebuoy soap.
To my taste-buds, the thin upper foliage _does_ somewhat resemble Lifebuoy,
and I don't like it at all. The denser low-growing early foliage, on the
other hand, is utterly wonderful.

-----
> OK, my cilantro bolted! Am I going to have to hand pick each of the
little seeds to restock my coriander spice bottle or does someone have an
easier way?

From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts):
Take a brown paper bag, and place the seed 'umbrella' inside. shake
heartily. Repeat for each 'umbrella'. This method is useful to harvest some
seed, and keep the rest for hopeful volunteer plants.

For an even easier method, harvest the plant, then beat against the side of
a clean trashcan. Most seeds should fall to the bottom. you'll need to
clean it a bit, but it's lot easier than hand-picking. This method of
course, harvests *all* the seed, as opposed to number 1.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
It takes coriander about 3 months to produce seed - to get seed on plants
grown indoors, grow under plant lights. The best leaves to use are the
denser, lower foliage. Once the plant bolts, the lacy upper foliage should
not be used, as it is not as tasty. Leaves should be harvested before the
plant blooms, or seeds should be harvested when about 2/3 of the seeds have
turned a brownish color. Cut the tops of the plant in the early morning
while still wet with dew, to prevent the seeds from shattering.

-----
From: rudy@cae.ca (Rudy Taraschi):
The way I do it is to dry the entire plant, seeds and all. I then get a
large paper shopping bag, hold the dried plant by the stem and thrash it
around in the bag. Most of the seeds usually fall off if the plant is dry
enough.

From: mrooney@mrooney.pn.com (Michael Rooney)
Even better than a paper bag is the feet of panty hose that you or your SO
has decided are too far gone to wear any more. They are great for putting
over dill and cilantro stems to catch the seed. Just put the toe where the
seed head is and a twist tie around the shin part where it is over the stem
and you will catch almost every seed.

=====
2.8.3 Using / preserving cilantro / coriander
-----
From: snielsen@orednet.org (Susan L. Nielsen)
Not exactly on the matter of etymology, but as to the flavor of
cilantro/coriander leaves, Julia Child has said, [pitch voice appropriately
high in the head]: "I just can't stand it. It tastes like dirt." Other
interpretations invoke soap. I find it quite fresh in flavor, and even take
it straight off the plant in the garden. Of course, I nibble a lot of
things as I dig, but cilantro is definitely one I enjoy. No accounting for
taste.

-----
From: nancy_moote@sunshine.net (Nancy Moote)
Cilantro goes to seed very quickly. You can eat the flowers, though. They
taste like the leaves but lighter and sweeter. Or let them develop seed for
baking, pickling, curries, and planting next year.

They grow so fast that you can plant seeds now for more leaf cilantro later
this summer. Next year maybe try planting a few seeds every 2 weeks for a
continuous supply.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Coriander is eaten in salads and as a pot-herb in China, and the leaves are
often used in Mexican, Turkish, Indian, and some Chinese foods. Leaves are
used in rice dishes, refried beans, salsa, curries, omelets, soups, and
salads. The seeds are used for flavoring breads, cookies and cakes, sausage
and meat dishes, plum jam, and herb liqueurs.

Leaves contain vitamin C, vitamin A, calcium, phosphorus, potassium, iron,
fiber, niacin, thiamin, and 14-22% protein.

'Lucknow' curry powder

1 oz. ginger, 1 oz. coriander seed, 1 oz. cardamom seed,
1/4 oz. cayenne powder, 3 oz. turmeric.

Spicy Cilantro Butter

3-4 cloves minced garlic, 4 generous tablespoons chopped fresh
cilantro, 1 or 2 jalapeno peppers or 1 serrano chile- seeded and finely
chopped, 1 teaspoon lime zest (peel), 2-3 teaspoons fresh lime juice,
salt to taste, crushed dried red chile to taste, 1/4 pound softened
unsalted butter (one stick)

Blend all together. Good with grilled or broiled fish, shrimp or steak,
pasta, rice, squash, corn, and eggplant. Roll corn on the cob in the
butter, then sprinkle with Parmesan and lime juice.

Cilantro Salmon

3 to 3 1/2 lbs salmon
2 to 3 cloves crushed garlic
2 tsp. fresh grated ginger
2 to 5 jalapeno peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped
2 small onions, finely chopped
2 tomatoes in eighths
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, finely chopped

Clean salmon, removing the head and tail. In a bowl mix together the
remaining ingredients, reserving 5 tomato wedges, and stuff the fish. Line
the fish opening with the remaining tomato wedges. Wrap the fish tightly
with foil. Bake at 450 degrees F. for 10 minutes per inch of thickness of
fish or barbecue over hot coals.

-----
From Alisa Norvelle <NORVELLE@uga.cc.uga.edu>:

When I buy cilantro for whatever reason, I often have much of the bunch
leftover. This is an easy way to keep from wasting it:

Remove the leaves from the bunch of cilantro. Mash them in a mortar and
pestle with cloves of garlic & salt. The ratio is up to you. I usually use
about 2 cloves of garlic with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and as much cilantro as
I can cram into the base of the pestle/mortar without making a mess.

Once you have this paste, you can roll it in saran wrap and freeze it,
slicing off whatever you need for a particular dish.

Two uses for this stuff (measurements are approximations):

Lebanese Sauteed Potatoes

2-3 potatoes, diced
2-3 T of cilantro pesto stuff
olive oil
vegetable oil

Dice the potatoes small enough so that they fry fairly quickly, e.g., about
the size of one of the keys on your keyboard.
Fry them in the vegetable oil. Remove and drain them as they get done.
Drain the vegetable oil from the pan and add just a tablespoon or two of
olive oil. Return the potatoes to the pan with the cilantro pesto.
Just saute until everything's a good serving temperature.

This never fails to be a crowd-pleaser. Folks will go *nuts* over it! And
no, it is not a part of your fat-free diet.

Lubieh (another Lebanese dish, I don't know how to write it)

I make this vegetarian style. But this is the traditional way:
1/4 lb meat
1 lb green beans
cilantro pesto stuff
olive oil
Lemon juice

Dice the meat into bite-size chunks. Cook it in a sauce pan until it is
good and done--no pink. Add the green beans and a bit of olive oil. Cook
them on a low heat until they begin to exude water. Add the cilantro pesto
in about the last 5-10 minutes of cooking. Squeeze about a half a lemon
onto the meat & beans.

Even prepared the meat-eater way, the amount of meat in this dish is small
for what most Americans-I-know think is a normal meat/vegetable ratio. Eat
it as a meal unto itself or with rice, using pita bread as your eating
utensil.

=====
2.8.4 Which coriander / cilantro do you have?
-----
From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt)
There's the "slow-bolting" or "leaf" cilantro, and the coriander - they're
the same species, but they're different strains selected for different
growth characteristics. Leaf cilantro grows more of the low, dense foliage,
and it's not as eager to bolt to seed as is commercial seed-coriander
stock.

Culantro
From: endothyr@athens.net (Dennis O'Connell)
Also known as Puerto Rican coriander or spiny coriander. Leaves are 4 - 8
inches long, strap-like with serrated edges, very different from typical
coriander. Taste is similar to (but much stronger than) cilantro.

From: afn23664@afn.org (Ray A. Orosz)
Finally, my culantro (Eryngium Foetidum) woke up! I let some of it bolt,
(Oh, boy does it bolt!), after the little flowers went away, I'm left with
something cone-like where the flowers were. It appears they may be seeds,
but I'm no sure. I'm also starting to get tired to get stung with the
prickles around it every time I check to see what's happening. Are they
seeds, or should I just cut them out and send them up the river?
Exactly, how does this thing reproduce?

From: herblady@super.zippo.com (Rastapoodle)
Culantro has vicious seed heads, with prickles like hypodermic needles.
The seeds are within that nasty seed head. I just snip them off after they
open and collect the seed. Cutting off the seed heads as soon as they form
(early flowering stage) will result in lusher plants that spread faster.

From: Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bris.ac.uk>
Eryngiums come from the same family (Umbelliferae, which also includes
Carrots, Fennel & Queen Anne's Lace), but most Eryngiums are spiny and
grown for ornamental reasons; the flowerheads are usually surrounded by
several large spiny bracts which are often an attractive shade of metallic
blue, silver or purple. Yours seems to be seeding very early, but then you
are in a pretty warm climate! The cone-like structure is the seedhead, and
is the best way of propagating Eryngiums. When it is dry the whole thing
can be picked and the seeds shaken out. Fresh seed should germinate quite
quickly; if you leave it it may need a period of cold to encourage
germination.
Alternatively, you can take root cuttings, but since the plants dislike
disturbance this is best done in early spring so the plants can establish
again before summer.

-----
Vietnamese Coriander
From: herblady@super.zippo.com (Anya)
Vietnamese Coriander (Polygonum odoratum) is a low-growing spreading plant
with tender stems and small light green leaves, and resembles a wandering
Jew (Transcendica spp.). It has a pungent smell, not like
coriander/cilantro at all. It likes wet, semi-shady locales.
It is used in Vietnamese cooking, in soups, stir-frys, etc. I have made a
delicious vinegar with it. Too bad mine died, and I can't get it anymore.
It is believed to be an anaphrodisiac, and the Buddhist monks use it a lot
for this reason.
I don't know if it is a perennial in cold climates, better to pot it up and
bring it indoors, as it is tropical.

==========
End of part 1 of 4
==========

--
Henriette Kress             HeK@hetta.pp.fi            Helsinki, Finland
http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed FTP: sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
      /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/
Medicinal and Culinary herbFAQs, plant pictures, neat stuff, archives...
