

HOW TO MAKE SIMPLE BOOBY TRAPS

This information is of dangerous nature and is intended to educate people on how easy it is to construct booby traps.  The author and provider of this information accept no responsibility for your actions after you read this.

Booby Traps

[Road Trap]
This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.

[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen 

[Bangalore Torpedo]
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted. It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and  steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many layers of each.

[Homemade Hand Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.


[Anti-Personnel Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end, either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron, which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece  of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the  sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or by curiosity.

[Book Trap]
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place, put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical  circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.

[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a  metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the  loose floorboard.

[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure will be released and the grenade detonated.

[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a  nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse  hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by the very structure of the chimney.

[Car Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.  Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned, it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the front seat.

[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off.    The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint.  The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the explosives.

[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]
A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction- sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
        An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full  of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction  of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.

        An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches, and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger combustible material.
        Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle, friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.

