========
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.folklore.herbs,rec.food.preserving,alt.answers,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: Culinary herbFAQ (v.1.11) Part 3/4
From: HeK@hetta.pp.fi (Henriette Kress)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:45:52 GMT

Archive-name: food/culinary-herbs/part3
Posting-Frequency: monthly (on or about 20th)
Last-modified: 1996/11/25
Version: 1.11
URL: http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed/culiherb.html

Available by ftp: sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
 /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/faqs/

==========

2.18 Thyme

Latin name: Thymus vulgaris and other Thymus species.
=====
2.18.1 Growing thyme
-----
From: skifast123@aol.com (SkiFast123)
Transplanting thyme: a suggestion made by Adelma Grenier Simmons (of
Caprilands, CT fame) in one of her many herb pamphlets is to bury one-half
of the plant along with the roots in the soil. In other words, you will
only, after transplanting, be able to see 1/2 of the plant that you had
formerly. The other 1/2 will be underground.

Since thyme is tricky to transplant because its roots are so fine and in my
experience easy to sever from the main plant, this method has worked with
good results for me.

==========

2.19 Lemon grass / Citronella grass

Latin names:
Lemon grass: Cymbopogon citratus.
Citronella grass: Cymbopogon nardus
=====
2.19.2 Harvesting lemon grass
-----
From: stoddard@aruba.ccit.arizona.edu (Mari J Stoddard)
Scissor off the top third of the leaves, [dry] and use in tea or potpourri.
Do this whenever you have lots of points sticking up, rather than harvested
edges. I love to mix it with mint and Texas Ranger (all three fresh off the
plant). Supposed to be good for throat complaints (cough, soreness). Rose
petals or hibiscus makes for a prettier color.

Cut off a clump to ground level, use bottom third in cooking - sliced fine
or diced. Traditionally boiled in soups or sauces. For instance, lemon
grass clump, chicken broth, coconut milk, garlic and a bit of fish sauce
makes a great soup. Wait till you have at least three clumps.

Cut off a clump almost to ground level and lay on the BBQ grill under fish
or poultry. I usually separate the clump vertically into 1/4- 1/2 inch
diameter lengths and grill them for about a minute before putting down the
fish.

Separate the pot contents into clumps, and plant each clump in a new pot.

-----
From: Christopher Loffredo <cloffred@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Either start by trimming off some of the older blades every few weeks,
leaving some young shoots on the plant, then (1) roll up each blade into a
tight curl or tie it into a bow and freeze it at once inside a plastic bag,
or (2) dry the leaves, chop them up, and store in jars.

If you use the freezer method all you have to do is thaw the lemon grass
and it's ready to use. Dried lemon grass needs to be softened up if you're
going to cook with it, so place some in a small bowl with a few tablespoons
of hot water and let it soak for a while before cooking.

=====
2.19.3 Using / preserving lemon grass
-----
From: ehunt@bga.com (Eric Hunt)
This should be a great refresher.

Iced Lemongrass Tea

1/4 c Chopped fresh lemongrass-tops or
2 tbs. Dried flakes
4 c Boiling water
Sugar to taste

Preheat teapot with boiling water; discard water. Add lemongrass and
boiling water, steep 8 to 10 minutes; strain. Allow to cool, sweeten to
taste, and serve in tall glasses with ice. Yield: 4 servings

-----
From: albersa@aztec.asu.edu (ANN ALBERS)

Lemon Grass Crockpot Chicken & Thai soup from the leftover stock

1 whole chicken
8 young lemongrass stalks, 4-6" long (use the tender white parts from the
base of young shoots. These are tastiest)
salt and pepper to taste

Rinse the chicken and pat dry. Rub all over with butter and then salt and
pepper to taste. Stuff about half the lemongrass stalks in the cavity of
the chicken and put it in a crockpot, or Dutch oven. Make slits in the skin
and insert the other stalks. Trim if necessary to fit these in. Pour water
over the chicken to submerge it about halfway and cook on low 6-8 hrs till
tender.
Now, you can eat the chicken and make Thai soup out of the lemon grass
stock. To make the soup, strain all the stuff out of the stock. Add a can
of coconut milk, several shakes of red pepper flakes, bits of leftover
chicken that you've shredded and then salt and pepper to taste. Heat
thoroughly & in the last five minutes of cooking time add some sliced
mushrooms, & green onions. Yum.

Other ideas:

Make lemongrass tea. I never measure, just pour boiling water over the
leaves or stems and steep till it's well-colored. Add honey to taste.

Use the tender young shoots, chopped in stir fry dishes to add flavor. It's
good with stir fried chicken, water chestnuts, sliced carrots and broccoli.
I usually stir fry the lemongrass shoots first (about an hour ahead of
time) in a little oil then mix with teriyaki or soy sauce, some ginger, and
cornstarch to thicken. Then, after stir-frying the rest of the stuff, dump
the sauce over all and allow it to thicken. Serve with rice.

-----
From: Sam Waring <waring@ima.infomail.com>

Nasi Kuneng (Yellow rice)

1 lemon grass stalk or lemon zest
2 1/2 c rice
1 1/2 c coconut milk
3 c water
2 1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. salt
1 sl galangal, dry
1 bay leaf
1 krapau leaf

Once reserved for religious ceremonies, nasi kuneng is still served on
special occasions in Indonesia. This sweet and aromatic centerpiece of a
dish is perfect with satay.

Cut lemon grass into pieces about 3" long and tie into a bundle. In a
3-quart pan combine lemon grass, rice, coconut milk, water, turmeric, salt,
galangal, bay leaf, and citrus leaf. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, stirring gently every now
and then, just until liquid is absorbed. To finish cooking, steam according
to one of the methods listed below.

To steam in cooking pan: cover pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until rice
is tender (15-20 minutes). Halfway thru estimated cooking time, gently
fluff rice with 2 forks. Remove and discard seasonings. Transfer to a
serving bowl or mound rice on a platter into a rounded cone.

To steam using traditional method: transfer rice and seasonings to a
colander or steamer basket insert. Into a large kettle, pour water to a
depth or 1 1/2 inches: bring to boil over high heat. Place colander in
kettle. Cover and reduce heat, steam until rice is tender (about 20
minutes). Remove and discard seasonings. Serve as noted above.

-- per Larry Haftl

-----
From arielle@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM (Stephanie da Silva):

Lemongrass Drink

A handful of fresh lemongrass leaves, preferable the soft grassy tops,
or the top half of 12 fresh green stalks
3 cups cold water
1/4 cup sugar syrup

Cut the leaves or tops into 2-inch lengths, measure out 1 1/2 cups, loosely
packed. In a blender, combine the tops, water and syrup and blend at high
speed until the water is a vivid green and the lemongrass
leaves are reduced to fine, short, needlelike pieces, about 1 minute.
Strain through a very fine sieve into a large pitcher, spoon off and
discard green foam. Taste to see if it's sweet enough, and add more syrup
if you like. Serve in tall glasses over ice.

Sugar syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Combine sugar and water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until
liquid has thickened and colored slightly, about 5 minutes. Cool.

=====
2.19.4 Which lemon grass do you have?
-----
>>A friend told me he was buying small lemon grass plants to put in his
garden to help keep away bugs.
>>Has anyone ever heard of lemon grass as a bug (I assume he meant, gnats,
etc.) deterrent?
>Perhaps there is a connection to citronella?

From herblady@super.zippo.com (Rastapoodle):
Boy, are we confused here folks, but it is a common mistake. Here's the
story: Lemongrass, a delightful plant, and it's close cousin, Citronella
have many wonderful properties, releasing their scent into the air not
being one of them.

Lemongrass is wonderful to eat, Citronella is *not*. They look similar, so
be careful what you buy. Citronella is distilled to extract its oil, which
is used in insect repellent candles, burning coils, etc.

Very interestingly, a Dutch plant scientist did some genetic engineering
and spliced the oil gene of the Citronella into a Pelargonium (scented
geranium) plant. The resultant plant looks like a scented geranium, but
gives off the fragrance of Citronella (and rose, the original scent of the
geranium) to the air with just a breeze or a kiss from the sun.

The hybrid is called Citrosa, and it is patented (you can't make cuttings
for sale). A fully grown Citrosa (about 4 x 4 feet here in Miami) is
supposed to protect a 100 sq. ft area from mosquitoes.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

Anya

PS I have planted my Citrosa among my Lemongrass for an ironic statement.

-----
>I would like to know if it is worth while to grow citronella plants with
the idea that I can make citronella candles. I don't believe I have seen
these plants in any of my order catalogs and none of my gardening books
tell how you get the citronella out of the plants.

From: adgrant@water.waterw.com (Andrew Grant):
Commercially the oil is extracted by steam distillation using old extracted
plants as fuel. I doubt that you want to get that elaborate. I have never
tried it but I suspect that the plants could be chopped up and extracted
with a solvent like alcohol or toluene. Of course you would then have to
boil off the solvent. If you do contemplate this, know that the % oil in
the plant is low (I have forgotten the number) so your yield will be low.

Incidentally the notion that citronella discourages mosquitoes is not well
supported by my experience. I have seen mosquito larvae in rain water on
top of drums of citronella oil with oil droplets in the water!!!

==========

2.20 Horseradish

Latin name: Armoracia rusticana.
=====
2.20.1 Growing horseradish
-----
With this plant, the problem is less how to get it to grow and more how to
get rid of it later. To illustrate:

From: david bennett <dabennet@mailbox.syr.edu>
I need some help; how do I get rid of horseradish which I planted a number
of years ago that now threatens to take over my garden? Key issue is no
matter how deep you dig; you never get all of the root out. Now there hides
beneath the soil an infant root waiting to become a big plant next year,
etc.

-----
From eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts), to above:
Learn to appreciate horseradish - I doubt you'll be able to eradicate it
short of using some harsh chemical means. you'll very likely have to settle
for control instead of removal.

If your soil is not heavy clay, I'd recommend spading up the area and using
a sieve to extract as many runners as possible. depending on the area of
your problem, that may be some work.

You can also pinch off all the leaves (continuously) in an effort to
deplete the roots of energy.

You may also have some luck by using a large sheet of black plastic to
mulch the area, though I'd not recommend this in times of extreme heat, it
tends to bake the soil pretty badly.

Another method used to contain such invasive plants is to ring the area
with some sort of buried edging; I know of people who cut the bottoms off
five gallon plastic buckets, bury them and plant the horseradish in the
center of each bucket (the bottom is removed for drainage).

While it's too late to do that, you may be able to define an area, trench
it, and bury a foot or two of something (metal will corrode eventually,
wood will rot, plastic isn't very organic and eventually becomes brittle,
all end up needing to be replaced over time) to restrict underground
movement.

=====
2.20.3 Using horseradish
-----
also see 4.9.5 Mustards, below.
-----
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
First get a gas mask . . .

Seriously, the root is incredibly pungent when you're grinding it. You can
simply peel and grate it and use as is, or you can mix with mustard,
vinegar, cream, etc. for various sauces.

A word of warning: Proceed slowly. Fresh horseradish is a lot hotter than
the stuff you get in bottles.

-----
From: CAOwens@ix.netcom.com (Christine A. Owens )
Dig up the root. Wash carefully, and peel like a carrot. Grate very fine.
Add 1 T cider vinegar and a pinch of salt per 1/2 c. Store frozen, or in
the refrigerator.

You can add a couple of ounces of grated horseradish to vinegar, and let it
sit for a couple of weeks to produce a spiced vinegar with a real 'zip'. A
small amount of grated horseradish added to any dressing or sauce will pep
it up effectively. Mix powdered mustard, the vinegar of your choice, and
grated horseradish in equal volumes for the best mustard in the world.

BTW, horseradish greens are also very good, either diced very fine as an
addition to a salad, steamed like spinach, or sauteed in a little butter or
oil.

-----
From: NDooley@president-po.president.uiowa.edu

Horseradish Jelly

3 C. granulated sugar
1/2 C. prepared horseradish
1/2 C. apple cider vinegar
6 oz. liquid pectin

In a large saucepan, combine sugar, horseradish and vinegar over medium
heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to
a boil. Stir in pectin. Boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from
heat. Skim foam from top of jelly. Pour into sterilized jars and seal.
Yield: about 3 C. jelly. Delicious with meat or cream cheese/crackers.

==========

2.21 Fennel

Latin name: Foeniculum vulgare.
=====
2.21.1 Growing fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
Fennel is easy to grow, growing wild in many areas. An annual, it looks
like dill, only slightly more coarse. I've had problems in wet years with
it getting some sort of mold, but is generally quite troublefree. It
prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Seeds can be planted as soon as
frost danger is past. It's best to blanch (cover with dirt) the bulbs if
you plan on harvesting them to keep them tender. Plants should be thinned
to about a foot apart. You should get some volunteers if you let them go to
seed.

=====
2.21.2 Harvesting fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
The tender leaves may be diced and used to add a hint of licorice flavor
and is great to use with seafood. Fennel seed can be used with poppy seed,
sesame seed, celery or dill seed on bread. The bulb of the plant is also
commonly harvested, though I always let mine go to seed instead. For best
flavor harvest the leaves just as the flowers are starting to bloom.

-----
> Can anyone give me some ideas on how to store or prepare the surplus of
fennel seeds in my yard?

From: HerbalMuse@aol.com
If you intend to use the seeds in baking or other cooking, then you must
collect them from the flower heads as soon as they begin to turn brown, or
they will fall to the ground to re-seed. I store whole dill seed heads (as
you can do with fennel) in paper bags and keep them in a cool, dry pantry
in the basement. Fennel seeds are excellent with grilled or broiled fish,
chicken, with tomato based soups, and of course, in breads, cakes &
cookies.

If the seeds have already fallen to the ground, and are not cleared away,
you can expect to see the emergence of new plants in early spring. This may
delight you, however you should consider where these plants will grow in
relation to the rest of garden. Fennel should be grown in a bed of it's own
since most herbs won't do well in its presence, and it will stunt tomatoes
and bush beans.

=====
2.21.3 Using / preserving fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
The leaves and seeds may be dried. The leaves may also be frozen. The
tastiest way I've had it is from a local restaurant, Ambrosia. A dish
called fettucine Gamberi, it had fettucine (duh!) in a parmesan cream sauce
with garlic, fennel leaves, parsley, scallops, shrimp, capers and fresh
tomatoes. Quite tasty! Fennel has an anise or licorice flavor, and can be
used to flavor cheeses, vegetables and some pastries in addition to
seafood.

=====
2.21.4 Which Fennel do you have?
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu>:
There are two common types of fennel; Bronze Fennel and Common Fennel also
known as Finocchio (or Florence Fennel). True to it's name, the Bronze
Fennel's foliage is a dusky brown. My experience has all been with bronze
fennel, which is pretty in the garden as well as useful for cooking.

==========

2.22 Anise hyssop

Latin name:
Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop)
Agastache rugosa (Licorice mint, Korean)
=====
2.22.3 Using / preserving Anise hyssop
-----
From: Patrick Millard <ac577@dayton.wright.edu>
They are both strongly scented of licorice and somewhat sweet-smelling as
well. They are attracive in the garden with long spikes of blue-purple
flowers. They are considered to be good bee forage. They will grow well
indoors under flourescent lighting, blooming about 2 months after seeding.
Anise Hyssop is native to N. central U.S. I used the leaves and flowers in
salads and for flavoring meat dishes. They are supposed to good as a tea
also.

==========

2.23 Parsley

Latin name: Petroselinum crispum.
=====
2.23.1 Growing parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Parsley is a biennial. Plant seeds early in the spring (they're a little
slow to germinate). The first year, you get plenty of leaves, on fairly
long stems that come from the crown of the plant. The second year, you get
a couple of leaves and a long bloom stalk, which looks very much like Queen
Anne's Lace (they're related.) If you let it go to seed, some of the seed
will grow the next year.

To have a steady supply of parsley for cooking, you should plant two years
in a row. After that, it will self-sow if you let it.

Parsley's easy to grow - reasonable soil, sun, and water if you have a long
dry spell. The only pest I ever had was leaf miners, and the damage was
minimal.

=====
2.23.2 Harvesting parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
Pick leaves from the plant, stem and all. The first year, the more you
pick, the more leaves you'll get. The second year, there are only a couple
of leaves, and no more will grow, because the plant is working on bloom and
seeds.

=====
2.23.2 Using/preserving parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs (kovacsla@vnet.ibm.com)
The flat "Italian" parsley is the most strongly flavored. If you're going
to use it for cooking, this is the kind to get. Curly parsley is much
prettier on a plate, but doesn't have as much flavor. Use it mostly for
garnishes.

Parsley is, of course, a classic garnish. A sprig of curly parsley on a
plate really dresses it up. You can also chop parsley and sprinkle it on
meats, vegetables, etc.

Parsley is also a classic soup herb. When you're making stock, parsley is
one of the "aromatic vegetables" that's recommended to make the flavor
richer. For this, use stem and all; in fact, this is a good place to use
stems that you've cut off from pieces used for garnish.

It's a wonderful addition to a cooked vegetable, especially green beans or
peas. Tends to accentuate the flavor of the vegetable.

It's good in salads, too, adding a different "green" texture and flavor.
It's a bit too strong to be used by itself, for most people's taste.

Parsley can be chopped and dried, or chopped and frozen in ice cubes. The
cubes are great added to soup or a sauce. The dried parsley can be added as
is to a dish to be cooked or used as a garnish on soup, or soaked in a
little bit of water and sprinkled on top of already- cooked food as a
garnish.

==========

2.24 Monarda or Bee Balm

Latin name: Monarda didyma and other Monarda species.
=====
2.24.1 Growing Monarda
-----
From: jnewbo@aol.com (Jnewbo)
My Monarda Cambridge Scarlet (the most common one) doesn't stay in place;
it moves forward on flat stems near the surface. That means it creeps
forward and needs to be divided and resituated every two-three years or so.
It also is prone to mildew - but the crown-like scarlet blooms are
fabulous.

A more well-behaved variety is the pink one, "Croftway Pink"; it has more
lanceolate leaves and smaller blooms, but the bees (including
hummingbird-moth) love it, and it enlarges in the more traditional way,
increasing the clump rather than traveling all over the garden.

Both bloom about three weeks, maybe more (sometimes I get "double" and even
"triple decker" crowns on the red one). After that clip back and you may
get more smaller blooms after a while.

-----
From: Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bris.ac.uk>
Both 'Croftway Pink' and Cambridge Scarlet are rather mildew-prone. You may
be interested to know that there are a whole range of new hybrids that have
come out, bearing the names of the signs of the zodiac, that are much more
mildew-resistant. They come in colours from purple through red and pink to
white.

Monardas are also much less prone to getting mildew (and also grow and
flower much better) in a dampish soil, or at least in a place where they do
not get too dry in summer.

-----
an354@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, also known as Bergamot and Bee Balm is a hardy perennial
which grows 2-3 feet tall. Bees love it.

The plant spreads fairly quickly through its root system. Divide every
three years, discarding the dead centre of the root. The plant will grow
well in sun or part shade. The flowers last 4-6 weeks.

====
2.24.3 Using / preserving Monarda
-----
From: an354@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, Bergamot or Bee Balm: The leaves dry well and can be used
to make a tea that tastes like Earl Grey tea.

From: jnewbo@aol.com (Jnewbo)
The leaves and flowers of Cambridge scarlet are marvelous,
bergamotty-flavored things, though I found the tea rather scratchy on the
throat.

From: Marylin.Kraker@bbs.c4systm.com (Marylin Kraker)
Mondarda does make good tea, which is why it's also called Oswego tea. It's
not the same as the bergamot in Earl Grey, which is a tropical citrus.

From: Conrad Richter <conrad@richters.com>
Both the leaves and flowers can be used. The flowers, of course, add nice
colour. Some say that the flowers have a more delicate flavour, and of the
various varieties, the red bergamot is the creme-de-la-creme.

==========

2.25 Ginger

Latin name: Zingiber officinale
=====
2.25.3 Using / preserving ginger
-----
Also see 4.8.2, Ginger beer, below.
-----
on alt.humor.best-of-usenet in March 96:

From: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu (Arthur Wouk)
Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking
Subject: Re: Crystalized Ginger -- Make it myself???

Eric Stauffer <ebs@lilly.com> wrote:
>I have a couple of receipes that call for crystallized ginger. Much to my
dismay it's about $7.00 per bottle. Upon close examination is looks like
nothing more than peeled ginger coarsely chopped and slathered in sugar.
How far off the mark am I??

You are off by about 8 hours of cooking the ginger in a sugary syrup.

arthur wouk

-----
>Does anyone know how to make preserved ginger? I've also seen it called
crystalized ginger. It is small chunks of sugar-coated ginger and the
texture is quite chewy. If you have a recipe for this I would appreciate a
copy.

From: Eve Dexter (evedex@hookup.net)
Scrape and cut into 1/4 inch slices enough non-fibrous young Ginger root to
make 1 quart. Put the slices into a large non-aluminum pat and cover
generously with water. Bring slowly to the boil an simmer, covered until
tender (20 min). Add 1 cup sugar and stir until the mixture boils. Remove
from heat.
Cover and let stand overnight at room temperature.
Recook, simmering gently for about 15 min (after coming to the boil). Add 1
seeded sliced lemon and 1 cup light corn syrup. Uncover and simmer 15
minutes longer, stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat and let stand covered overnight.
Bring the mixture to the boil again and add 1 cup sugar and simmer for 30
min STIRRING CONSTANTLY (burns easily). Add 1 cup sugar, bring back to the
boil and remove from heat.
Cover and let stand overnight again.
In the fourth cooking, bring the mixture to a boil once more. When the
syrup drops heavily from the side of a spoon, and the ginger is
translucent, pour the mixture into sterile jars and seal. This yields about
5 cups.
If you want Candied ginger...drain the ginger after the last cooking.
Reserve the syrup for flavoring sauces and allow the slices to dry on a
sheet or better still a rack, overnight. When well dried, roll in
granulated sugar and store in tightly covered glass jars.

-----
From: albersa@aztec.asu.edu (ANN ALBERS)
Before grilling a thick whitefish, I sometimes coat it with this mixture:

1 cup orange juice
1/4 cup honey
1/2-inch gingerroot, chopped very fine
Sweet but tasty.

Slivered macadamia nuts or almonds may be sprinkled on after the fish comes
off the grill.

-----
From: jdtrach@islandnet.com (Julia Trachsel)

This is a great recipes which I always make in our cool, rainy season out
here on the west coast. Hope you enjoy it as much as my family and guests
do.

Gingerbread

1/2 cup shortening
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg beaten
1 cup molasses
2 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 teas. baking soda
1 tbsp. ginger
1 tsp. allspice
1 tsp. cloves
1 cup boiling water
1 cup raisins (optional)
1 cup crystalized ginger, chopped

Cream shortening, sugar, add beaten egg and molasses. Add dry ingredients.
Add boiling water, mix well. Add chopped crystalized ginger and stir
gently. Pour inti 2 small greased loaf pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60
minutes. A skewer inserted into the middle should come out clean when the
gingerbread is done.

My personal twist to this recipe is to add 1 cup of crystalized ginger
(instead of 1/2 cup) and to serve it with hot lemon pie filling which has
been extended by adding enough extra water to make it pourable.

==========

2.26 Anise

Latin name:
Pimpinella anisum - this is aniseed, and that's the plant covered here.
Illicium anisatum (I.verum) - this is star anise.
=====
2.26.1 Growing anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Anise is an annual herb native to the Mediterranean- Egypt, Greece, Crete,
and Asia Minor. It is a rather fussy herb; it likes perfect weather of
uniform rainfall and temperatures. It wilts under excessive heat but
requires full sun, and it does not transplant well.

Propagation is by seed, and be sure the seed is fresh. Seeds need a
temperature of 70F to germinate, and will germinate in 7 to 14 days. Sow
1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in light, well-drained, medium-rich sandy soil. A pH
of 6.0 to 7.5 is best. Space 3 inch seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart.

=====
2.26.2 Harvesting anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest seeds as soon as the tip of the seed turns gray (they should not be
black), anywhere from 60 to 130 days after planting, depending on climate.
Since Anise is an annual, collect seeds either by pulling up the entire
plant, or by just cutting the tops off. Spread plants to dry. Thresh.

=====
2.26.3 Using / preserving anise
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Use fresh leaves as a garnish or flavoring for salads. They can be cooked
as a pot-herb.
Flowers are occasionally dried and powdered as a flavoring for wine.
Seeds are used in bread, pastries, cookies, vegetables, baked apples,
applesauce, cheese, desserts, plum jam, brandy, cordials, and milk. 1/2 to
1 tsp per 4 quarts of potato or lentil soup, 1/2 tsp crushed in salads.
Use ground anise seed quickly, it loses its strength fast.

==========

2.27 Borage

Latin name: Borago officinalis
=====
2.27.1 Growing borage
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Borage is a very hardy annual native to the Mediterranean. It grows to 2
feet tall, or even 5 feet in rich soil, and has beautiful blue flowers. It
is an extremely tolerant plant, doing well in average and poor dry soils
(pH between 5 and 8), but it is difficult to transplant due to its tap
root. It is a good plant for container culture, planted in a large tub with
smaller herbs arranged around the edge.

Borage is easily grown from seed. Plant 1/2 in. deep (about the time of the
last frost outdoors), seeds will germinate in 7 to 14 days. Plant in full
sun or partial shade, thin 18 in. to 2 feet apart. To encourage leaf
growth, supply rich moist soil. To encourage flowers, hold the fertilizer
and give plenty of sun.

Leaves give off sparks and pop when burned due to nitrate of potash.

=====
2.27.3 Using / preserving borage
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Fresh leaves are best, but can be dried. Harvest leaves for drying as plant
begins to flower. Dry very carefully - quickly, good air circulation, and
with no overlapping of leaves. Flowers can be dried to add color to
potpourri.

Fresh leaves and flowers have a spicy, cucumber-like taste and an
onion-like smell. Young leaves or peeled stems are good chopped in salads,
or leaves can be boiled as a pot-herb. The flowers make a colorful addition
to salads and a flavorful addition to lemonade. Add borage to cabbage-type
vegetables, gravies, or spiced punches. In some areas of France, the
flowers are dipped in batter and fried. Flowers can also be candied.

Borage Flower Tea: handful of fresh leaves steeped in 1-2 quarts of water,
add one or two sprigs of spearmint. Makes a refreshing summer beverage.

Borage and Rosemary Wine: Steep a handful of fresh rosemary (or 2
tablespoons dried rosemary) and 2 tablespoons dried borage leaves in one
bottle of white wine for a week or more. Strain through cheesecloth or a
paper coffee strainer.

Candied Borage Flowers: Brush flowers with lightly beaten egg white, then
dip in superfine granulated sugar. Spread to dry.

-----
From: Pat Peck <arpeck@FREENET.SCRI.FSU.EDU>

Borage vinegar

1 1/2 cups fresh borage flowers (I add a little of the stem and leaves for
more intense flavor), wash and blot dry.
4 cups white wine vinegar (do not use distilled white vinegar)

Place in large jar. (I use mason jars with plastic over jar lip under lid).
Heat vinegar to just before boil. Pour into jar. Stir. Place in dark place
for 3 to 4 weeks. Go by and stir from time to time.

P.S. You can cheat and add a tiny drop of blue food coloring if not blue
enough.

==========

2.28 Horehound

Latin name: Marrubium vulgare
=====
2.28.1 Growing horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound is a perennial native to the Mediterranean and northern Europe,
and is naturalized in the United States. It is a good border plant and
doesn't require much attention, but is sometimes winter-killed.

Horehound prefers a poor, dry sandy soil, and tolerates a wide pH range-
all the way from 4.5 to 8.

Horehound is easily grown from seed sown in shallow holes in fall or early
spring. It can also be propagated from stem cuttings, root divisions, or
layering. Space seedlings 8 to 15 inches apart.

=====
2.28.2 Harvesting horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound flowers from June to September, but not always in its first year
as plants that are grown from seed may take two years to bloom. Harvest the
leaves and flowering tops in peak bloom, they are easy to dry, or can be
used fresh.

=====
2.28.3 Using / preserving horehound
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Horehound tea, cough syrup and candy: (Dried leaves may be used for tea.)
Strip leaves from plant, chop into measuring cup. Measure out twice as much
water as leaves. Bring water alone to boil, then add horehound. Boil for
five minutes, let cool, and strain into jars. Refrigerate resulting
infusion until needed.

To make tea: Add twice as much boiling water as horehound infusion. Sweeten
to taste.
To make syrup: Add twice as much honey as horehound infusion and a little
lemon juice.
To make candy: Add twice as much sugar as horehound infusion, and add about
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar per cup of infusion. Stir to dissolve, and
cook over low heat until the hard ball stage (290F) is reached. Pour into
buttered plate. Break into pieces when cool.

==========

2.29 Marjoram and oregano

Latin names:

The genera of Origanum sp. are subject to frequent changes ... like with
Mentha, the botanists can't seem to make up their minds.
The 'marjoram' mentioned below is Origanum majorana. The rest are lumped
together under 'oregano'.

Sweet Marjoram: Origanum majorana (former: Majorana hortensis)
Oregano or Wild Marjoram: Origanum vulgare
Pot Marjoram: Origanum onites
Winter marjoram: Origanum heracleoticum
Dittany of Crete, hop marjoram: Origanum dictamnus

Also see 2.29.4, Mexican oregano and 2.29.4, Cuban oregano.

=====
2.29.1 Growing marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram grows as an annual up to two feet tall in most parts of the United
States due to climate, but it is a perennial in its native north Africa,
Portugal, and southwest Asia.

Marjoram prefers a light, fairly rich, well-drained, slightly alkaline
soil, with a pH from 7 to 8. It like full sun.

Marjoram is easily grown from seed that is sown in spring, or by cuttings
taken in the summer. It can be induced to be perennial by overwintering
indoors in pots. When grown indoors it has a tendency to trail that makes
it good for hanging baskets. Marjoram makes a good companion plant for
eggplant, pumpkin and zucchini.

The genus Origanum contains about 20 species, of which five are common in
herb gardens. Oregano (O. vulgare) is a perennial, native to Asia, Europe,
and northern Africa. Pot marjoram (O. onites) is a close relative of sweet
marjoram that is native to the Mediterranean, and O. heracleoticum is
native to southeast Europe.

Oregano grows to 2.5 feet tall, and flowers from late July until September.
It is a sprawling herb and is therefore not well suited for growing
indoors. Pot marjoram grows to two feet tall, and neither it nor dittany of
Crete are hardy in cold climates. Dittany of Crete grows to one foot tall,
blooms in summer or autumn, and like Pot marjoram, grows as an annual in
cold climates. Dittany of Crete grows well indoors due to its small size
and its flavor is very similar to that of common oregano.

Oregano likes light, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with full sun.
Rich, moist soil makes the aroma and flavor of oregano weak.

Oregano can be grown from seeds, stem cuttings, or root divisions, but
seeds are sometimes slow to germinate. Also, plants grown from seed may not
be true to the flavor of the parent plant, or may even be flavorless.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for cauliflower but should not be
planted with broccoli or cabbage.

=====
2.29.2 Harvesting marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram: harvest the leaves as soon as blooming begins. They dry easily
and can be frozen, but some people believe that drying the leaves actually
improves the flavor, making it sweeter and more aromatic. Its flavor when
fresh is closer to that of oregano.

Harvest oregano leaves as plants begin to bloom.

=====
2.29.3 Using / preserving marjoram and oregano
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Marjoram is great in tomato dishes, and with meats, onions, brussel
sprouts, or mushrooms.

Oregano is good with potato salad, fowl stuffing, peas, soups, scrambled
eggs, omelets, tomato dishes, meats, beans, deviled eggs, spaghetti, chili,
hamburgers and pizza. It is essential to Italian, Spanish, and Mexican
dishes, and combines well with basil.

Chicken Corn Soup with marjoram

2 cups chicken stock
2 cups chopped potatoes
2 cups fresh corn kernels
2 cups chopped cooked chicken
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh marjoram
salt and pepper

Bring stock to a boil, add potatoes, cover, cook until potatoes are barely
tender. Add corn and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in chicken and marjoram, add
salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about another 10 minutes.

=====
2.29.4 Which oregano do you have?
-----
From: Chris McElrath <Mcmariah@AOL.COM>:
The word oregano comes from the Greek "oro" meaning mountain and "ganos"
meaning joy. The generic stuff that nurseries sell is Origanum vulgare
which is attractive, but of little culinary value. Many of you may have
noticed that your oregano plants don't have much flavor. True greek oregano
is the same as what is often called wild marjoram. In fact, I usually use
marjoram in place of oregano in my recipes. Many nurseries interchange the
labels freely. Greeks felt that the sweet smell was created by Aphrodite as
a symbol of happiness. Bridal couples were crowned with it and it was
placed on tombs to give peace to the departed.
O. vulgare -- basic oregano, spreads by rhizomes, grows wild in England
O. onites is an upright plant -- called pot marjoram
O. heracleoticum -- winter marjoram, peppery and volatile flavor

-----
Cuban oregano:

From: sotrembi@saims.skidmore.edu (stephen otrembiak)
>Someone just told me they purchased "cuban oregano" they wanted to know
more about this intriguing plant. Apparently it is a succulent and has a
very strong oregano flavor. He thought it was a strange plant and is
reluctant to use it for culinary purposes.
>If anyone has more info on this plant or knows where it can be purchased I
would appreciate the info.

From: Ann McCormick <McCORMICK9@AOL.COM>
>I have recently purchased some Cuban oregano, with botanical name of
"Coleus ambonicus". It has thick, almost fleshy leaves that are 1 to 2
inches long with a somewhat fuzzy surface. It has a wonderful fragrance
that reminds me of oregano with a kick.
>The garden shop owner told me she knew very little about it other that
some of her customers use it in cooking and that it is should be grown like
an annual here (Zone 6, Central New Jersey). From the botanical name (and
its appearance) it is obviously not a true oregano. Have any of you grown
this plant? Any information would be appreciated.
From: herblady@super.zippo.com (Rastapoodle)
It is Plectranthus, a tropical substitute for Oregano. It is totally safe,
and very pungent, so a little goes a long way. Richters Herb in Canada
should sell it. Here in Miami, it's almost a weed, as all of the Caribbean
and Latin American residents treasure it. It grows easily from cuttings,
prefers sun/semi-shade during the hottest part of the day.

From: weed <avril_tolley@berlex.com>
I don't know where you would get it in New York, Steve. Here in Northern
California, it is sold in the herb section, usually in 4-inch pots. It's
hairy, which is why I think you wouldn't want to use it in cooking. It's
very pungent, though, great smell. There are enough good oreganos for
cooking, I like to leave the really ornamental ones for growing. This plant
needs *excellent* drainage, full sun and not too much water or it will bite
the dust. I have one growing in a pot, and one growing in an old sandbox
I'm turning into a rock garden. You can just break off a stem and put it in
a pot for a new plant. I've given lots of them to people. I would bet that
it's tender, and you'd have to bring it indoors in winter (we don't get
cold enough here for me to find out). I had one growing on the bright, hot
windowsill in my kitchen for a long time before planting it out, so that
works, too.

From: mouvedre@ix.netcom.com (BETH W SPROW)
Cuban oregano is an excellent plant. I've used it in cooking and it is
wonderful. Especially in salsas with tomatillos, tomatoes peppers etc.
As a house plant its great. It needs practically no watering and its
varigated with cream around the edge of creamy green leaves.

From: ae@meer.net (Arthur Evans)
Here's one shot in the dark ... In The Art of Mexican Cooking, Diana
Kennedy describes the various kinds of oregano used in regional Mexican
cooking (there are apparently at least 13 kinds), including the following:
"There is [...] a large, juicy-leaved oregano grown and used fresh in the
Yucatan Peninsula and Tabasco, mostly with fish. It is Coleus amboinicus (I
have also seen it growing in Hawaii) and it is referred to in Tabasco as
oreganon."
Juicy-leaved could mean succulent, and something that grows in the Yucatan
might well grow in Cuba ...

-----
Mexican Oregano:

From: Chris McElrath <Mcmariah@AOL.COM>
Mexican oregano is a general name for several plants, all of which have a
strong oregano flavor: Poliomintha longiflora, Lippia graveolens, and
Monarda fistulosa var. menthifolia. These are probably the most common but
there are others.
So, it comes down to: Mexican oregano is a common name which is used for
several different species that grow in the southwestern US and Mexico. If
you can find one, it probably has more flavor than the ubiquitous O.
vulgare.

==========

2.30 Caraway

Latin name: Carum carvi
=====
2.30.1 Growing caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Caraway is a hardy biennial native to Europe and western Asia. It grows to
2 1/2 ft. tall. Caraway like full sun, and does well in dry heavy clay soil
that has a moderate amount of humus (pH between 6 and 7.5). It doesn't like
having its roots disturbed.

Caraway is easily grown from seed that is sown in either early spring or in
the fall. Seeds planted in September will flower and produce seed the
following summer. It occasionally matures in the third summer of growth.

Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 in. deep, they will germinate in 7 to 21 days, or
more. Space seedlings 12 to 24 in. apart.

=====
2.30.2 Harvesting caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest seeds as soon as they begin to ripen to avoid shattering of the
fruits. They ripen from June to August of the second year.

=====
2.30.3 Using / preserving caraway
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Roots taste like a combination of parsnips and carrots, and they can be
boiled like a vegetable.
Young shoots and leaves can be cooked with other vegetables or can be
chopped into salads.
The dry seeds are used in rye bread, sauerkraut, cheeses, applesauce,
soups, salad dressings, apple pie, cabbage dishes, potatoes, and stew.
Seeds contain small amounts of protein and vitamin B.

==========

2.31 Catnip

Latin name: Nepeta cataria, Nepeta mussinii
=====
2.31.1 Growing catnip
-----
From snielsen@orednet.org (Susan L. Nielsen):
To all catnip culture hopefuls... my own tale of woe.

I guess the point was mainly to grow it for the cats, but I had anticipated
waiting until the holidays and using it for gifts.

The first time, I naively plunked the catnip among the mints and
pennyroyals. The poor little transplant never pushed its roots out from the
pot-shaped ball they came in. The neighbor cats ripped it out of the ground
and played football with it all afternoon -- this I judge from its
condition when I arrived home from work the second evening.

Silly me, I thought then that a bit of wire would keep the cats off it. I
tenderly re-planted the invalid Nepeta with a bit of poultry wire arranged
over the top and staked into the soil. I have always wondered what happened
to the wire...

After this second violation, the plant did not look a likely candidate for
survival. In medical terms, its condition was 'grave.'

So I brought home another, and planted it in the top of a _large_, heavy
imported Italian terra cotta pot. Filled with soil, this pot weighs in at
about 75 pounds. Imagine my horror, when I returned home the following
evening, to find the pot overturned, the soil excavated, the catnip plant
nowhere to be found, but significant tufts of animal fur scattered among
the wreckage. It passed through my mind that this might not be an ordinary
cat at work, but, perhaps, Something Larger? The yellow tiger-colored hairs
did, however, suggest a domestic visitor over an apricot catamount.

I next (jaw set, grim determination in my eye) planted catnip in a plastic
pot hung by 3 chains from the cross-bar of the clothesline. With pliars I
closed the hook that passed through the eye of the bar. I arranged new
chicken wire over the top of the pot. I put cast-off barbed wire at the
base of the clothesline pole, and anchored it with iron stakes driven in at
angles. I stood back to admire my work. It looked like an industrial
construction project on the perimeter of a prison.

I have always prided myself on effective design in the garden...

On the following evening, I probably need not tell, the catnip had again
been ravaged. The scene was improbable. The pot, still attached by one of
three chains, hung at a debauched angle. Its contents had spilled into the
barbed wire at the base of the installation.
Among those wires were traces of catnip leaves, and quantities of yellow
and white fur, soft fur, tinged with spots of blood. Bits of perlite from
the potting medium clung to the red spots. The catnip, and the nipped cat,
were nowhere in evidence.

I adopted a philosophical outlook then, as I surveyed the result of the
day's work. I decided it might be a better thing to not grow catnip in the
garden.

SuN.

-----
Added 22Sep 96: From Judi Burley <jburley@TRIANON.WORLDTEL.COM>:
Regarding Catnip. I use a cage over mine. Just an old birdcage. Then the
cats can get at what grows out of the cage but the base plant is safe. By
the way I put the cage over the plant and then drive the cage into the
ground well. Works great.

-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Catnip is a very hardy perennial that is native to the dry regions of the
Mediterranean, inland Europe, Asia, and Africa. Cataria grows to 4 feet
tall and somewhat resembles stinging nettle. Mussinii grows to 1 foot,
sprawls. It has a citrus-like scent and is sometimes called catmint. In
order to keep cats away from catnip avoid bruising the leaves, which
releases the oils. "If you sow it cats won't know it, if you set it cats
will get it," is an apt saying.

Catnip loves full sun but can tolerate partial shade, and does well in
almost any garden soil (pH between 5 and 7.5). It is more pungent when it
is grown in sandy soil with full sun.

Catnip is easily grown from seed, and can also be propagated from root
division. Plant seeds 1/4 in. deep or shallower, they will usually
germinate promptly. Space seedlings 18 to 24 in. apart, they transplant
fairly happily. (However, transplanting them brings them to the attention
of the felines.) Catnip grows well in pots and windowboxes, and even though
it is a perennial, it may have to be re-planted a couple times a year to
replace those plants ravaged by the cats.

=====
2.31.2 Harvesting catnip
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Harvest as needed for fresh leaves. Harvest flowering tops for drying,
usually in July and September.

=====
2.31.3 Using / preserving catnip
-----
From Jennifer A. Cabbage <fxjac@camelot.acf-lab.alaska.edu>:
Catnip can be used to add an unusual flavor to sauces, soups and stews.

==========

2.32 Lovage

Latin name:
Lovage: Levisticum officinalis (Ligusticum levisticum)
Scotch lovage: Ligusticum scoticum (this one is commonly called Lovage in
the UK)

=====
2.32.1 Growing lovage
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
This is a broad-leaved, tall (6-10') and (for an umbellifer) long-lived
perennial. It has deep fleshy roots, and prefers deep, well-drained soil
with some moisture in a light but not necessarily sunny position.

It dies down completely in the winter and will survive the top inch or so
of the soil freezing solid. It may be grown from seed, small plants, or by
splitting older ones in its dormant season. It spreads slowly but is not
invasive.

From HeK:
If you give it good soil and plenty of sun it'll go for the height record
in your garden - I've seen plants that were over 3 m (10') high. On the
other hand, in a poor spot it'll only get to about 50 cm (2'). The roots
will be enormous no matter where it grows. You can propagate it from pieces
of root, and it's an 'easy to garden' plant - nothing will crowd it out and
I have yet to see an unhealthy plant.

=====
2.32.2 Harvesting lovage
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
The leaves can be used fresh or dried in the usual way, or the seed can be
harvested for winter use. An established plant produces huge heads of
seeds.

From HeK:
The roots are used in cooking in Europe. Dig them, take a step or two back,
try to dig again. Give up, and at least try to break off a chunk or two.
Dry these in small chunks and powder before use. Caution - very little goes
a long way.
You pick the seeds when they turn brown; dry them and add as a spice to
your foods.
You pick a leaf a year (they have a very strong taste and are -really-
large), dry it and use it as a spice.
You can pick a leaf- or flowerstalk and shoot peas - it's much more fun
than weeding the garden, and you might hit a fly or two, too ;) or you can
use it as a drinking straw.

=====
2.32.3 Using / preserving lovage
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It has a taste rather like celery with a hint of yeast extract, and is a
traditional flavour enhancer; it can be used in quite large quantities.
The young leaves are excellent chopped in salads, but the normal use is to
put the older leaves or seeds in soups, stews, casseroles, stock etc.
The seeds will keep for a year or two (for cooking) in a tightly closed
jar. It is an extremely useful herb.

From HeK:
It's the main spice in all those dried soups - in Germany it has been
called the Maggi-herb, after one big dried soup firm over there. I add it
to all kinds of stews and soups, and it fits nicely in a spicemix with
ginger, sweet pepper, cayenne, turmeric, garlic powder... sorry, have to go
cook something now. And oh yes, you can also candy young stems of lovage. I
wouldn't vouch for that taste, though. Anyone want to try? Let me know how
many you managed to eat ;)

=====
2.32.4 Which lovage do you have?
-----
From HeK:
Scotch lovage can be used like lovage. Can't say how it differs from
lovage, though, as it doesn't grow here. I imagine the taste is milder -
how else can you explain that the English make a stew out of lovage leaves?

==========

2.33 Savory, Summer and Winter

Latin name:
Summer savory: Satureja hortensis
Winter savory: Satureja montana

=====
2.33.1 Growing savory
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Summer Savory: This is a medium-sized (1') annual, and needs reasonably
warm, damp conditions for germination, but needs only a little water
thereafter. It has small seeds, so don't sow it too deep. It may be
possible to sow it for succession in warmer climates than the UK, but it
isn't here.
Winter Savory: Treat it exactly as common thyme (thymus vulgaris), which it
closely resembles; however, it is slightly more compact, darker leaved and
has white flowers. Like thyme, it makes a good edging plant.

From: Esther Czekalski <E.Czekalski@MA02Q.BULL.COM>
Summer savory is sometimes called the bean herb because it goes so well
with green beans. It is a much more delicate plant than winter savory and
in my experience, can handle a little more shade. In my zone I can only
grow it as an annual; winter savory will overwinter and stay almost
evergreen if it's mulched a bit.

=====
2.33.2 Harvesting savory
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Summer Savory: The leaves can be used fresh or dried in the usual way.
Winter Savory: The leaves can be used fresh or dried in the usual way, but
it is evergreen in the UK (again, exactly like thyme).

=====
2.33.3 Using / preserving savory
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Winter Savory: It has a flavour somewhere between thyme and summer savory,
but is slightly bitter. It can be used as an alternative for either, and
makes an interesting change, but be careful not to use too much. It is
nothing like as bitter as hyssop.
Summer Savory: It has a special affinity for beans and is known as the
"Bohnenkraut" in Germany - adding it to bean salad turns horse food into a
delicacy! It can also be used in salads, and for other flavouring.

From: Esther Czekalski <E.Czekalski@MA02Q.BULL.COM>
I like to get a bite of summer savory in salads, too, lettuce salads,
potato salads, whatever. The leaves are fairly small so I just strip them
from the stem and throw them in; chop them if you don't love herbs as much
as I do. You can use it in soups and things but the flavor is so delicate
that you might not know that you did! It would be better served chopped as
a topping to hot dishes. (Put the winter savory in while it's cooking.)
The winter savory can be kept whole, tied with other herbs and taken out of
the soup before serving.
Has anyone ever used savory for it's smell? I wonder if it wouldn't add a
nice note to a lemony mixture. I just don't know if it lasts. Also, I have
never preserved either variety so can't tell you what works best.

==========

2.34 Rue

Latin name: Ruta graveolens

=====
2.34.1 Growing rue
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It is a short-lived (c. 5 years) evergreen perennial 1-2' high, and seems
totally indifferent to soil. It takes incredibly easily from cuttings and
responds very well to being hacked back when it gets leggy.
Apparently it can also be grown from seed. Jackman's Blue is the most
decorative variety, and tastes the same as the common green one. It is
hardy in the UK, but I don't know how much frost it will take.

=====
2.34.2 Harvesting rue
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Don't bother, unless you are Italian!

=====
2.34.3 Using / preserving rue
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It is extremely bitter, and is used in very small quantities in Roman
(ancient) and Italian cookery - but do experiment, because it really does
add something. There is an Italian liqueur called (surprise!) Ruta, which
has a branch of rue in the bottle, but is too bitter for most foreigners to
drink :-)

From HeK:
It is also considered slightly toxic nowadays. Sensitive people can develop
photosensitivity due to the coumarins in the plant when handling it; these
folks should not ingest it. Otherwise, small amounts not too often should
be OK - but if you can't take it then don't take it.

==========

2.35 Rocket

Latin name: Eruca sativa

=====
2.35.1 Growing Rocket
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It is a quick-growing annual about 2' high, and even in the UK will produce
seed in well under a growing season. Sow it every few weeks for succession,
and leave one early sowing for seed. It will probably escape, but is not a
pernicious weed. A late sowing will last until the first severe frosts.

=====
2.35.2 Harvesting rocket
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Use its leaves fresh.

=====
2.35.3 Using / preserving rocket
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It has a smoky taste, and is used to enliven salads - it gives some flavour
even to supermarket Iceberg lettuce! It is probably the best of the
traditional (but now neglected) salad plants, and is well worth the space
even in a very small garden.

==========

2.36 Angelica

Latin name: Angelica archangelica

=====
2.36.1 Growing Angelica
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
This is a broad-leaved, monocarpic biennial or perennial (i.e. it takes 2-5
years to flower, and then dies) 6-10' high. It likes half shade (to reduce
the grass cover), and damp, rich soil. Given the right environment, it will
self seed and keep itself established. If you have a very hot, dry garden,
don't bother with it. It looks very much like lovage, but smells entirely
different.

From HeK:
If you keep the flowerstalk down (break it off every time you see it
emerge) the plant will be perennial - until it does flower.

=====
2.36.2 Harvesting angelica
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Cut the side-shoots (which can be quite thick stems) before they become
stringy - this is in May or June in the UK, and is just as the flower heads
start to open. You can also cut the flower shoots off a little earlier,
which will have the effect of keeping the plant alive for a year or so
longer, but it will die after about 5 years anyway.

=====
2.36.3 Using / preserving angelica
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Candied angelica stems
Cut the shoots into strips about 6" long and 1/2" wide, and remove untidy
bits. Blanch them (i.e. bring them to the boil and throw away the water).
Then candy them, using gradually increasing strengths of sugar syrup. When
they are done, dry them and keep them, but don't throw away the syrup; it
keeps for at least a year in the refrigerator and for a long time just in a
jar.
They can be used for decoration, in fruit salad, in ice cream and so on.

The syrup can be used for sweetening such things, and adds a strong
angelica taste. I recommend angelica ice cream, made with the chopped
stems, syrup and Chartreuse (an angelica-based liqueur) - this recipe is my
own invention, incidentally, and this is the first publication :-)

The young leaves and stems are also naturally sweet, and can be used in
stewed fruits or other puddings, or used in pot pourris.

From HeK:
This is a survey. Have you eaten candied angelica stems? Did you like it?
Would you eat them again?
Reply to HeK@hetta.pp.fi, please use Subject: Candied angelica.
Survey results will appear in subsequent editions of this FAQ.

==========

2.37 Sweet Cicely

Latin name: Myrrhis odorata

=====
2.37.1 Growing sweet cicely
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
You have a wild garden, a long way away from anywhere else? No? Then don't
grow this. Sweet cicely likes half shade and a moist, rich soil (like
angelica), but is horribly invasive when it likes the conditions. It is a
perennial 2-3' high, with deep roots. Like most umbellifers, the individual
plants are short lived, but it seeds itself like crazy. Its leaves are a
pretty mottled green, and are large and fairly deeply cut.

=====
2.37.2 Harvesting sweet cicely
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
Its leaves can be dried, though this is tricky, or its seeds can be
collected.

=====
2.37.3 Using / preserving sweet cicely
-----
From: nmm1@cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren):
It is naturally sweet (like angelica), but has a mild aniseed flavour; very
pleasant, if you like aniseed. It can be added to stewed fruits, other
puddings etc., or used in pot pourris.

==========

2.38 Mexican Mint Marigold (MMM)/ Mexican Tarragon

Latin name: Tagetes lucida (T.florida).
Common names: Mexican Marigold Mint, Mexican Mint Marigold, Mexican Mint
Tarragon, Mint Marigold, Texas Tarragon, Sweet Marigold, Cloud Plant,
Yerbanis, Hierba anis, Coronilla, Pericon
=====
2.38.1 Growing MMM
-----
From: Chris McElrath <Mcmariah@AOL.COM>
The following descriptive information is taken from "The Herb Garden
Cookbook" by Lucinda Hutson.
Characteristics of MMM: "Glossy lance-shaped leaves, finely serrated:strong
anise scent; brilliant golden marigold-like flowers in fall; perennial".
MMM likes "loose, well-draining soil; full sun"
Propagation: roots easily in water; readily reseeds Plant seeds in the
fall, germination in a few days.
Mature plant will be appr. 2 feet tall and 1 foot wide.
Especially good in hot, dry conditions where French tarragon won't grow.

=====
2.38.3 Using / preserving MMM
-----
From: Chris McElrath <Mcmariah@AOL.COM>
MMM is the best available substitute for Tarragon (see 2.11). The french
word for tarragon is "Estragon" which means "little dragon". MMM lacks the
fiery flavor of tarragon, but its anise flavor is more pronounced. In
Mexico MMM is used as a medicinal tea to calm stomachs and nerves, cure
colds, alleviate hangovers. Allegedly, the Aztecs used MMM in a numbing
powder which they blew into sacrificial victims' faces to calm their fears.
Besides as a tarragon substitute, MMM can be used as a pleasant tea
flavoring. It is tasty added to sangria, punches, mulled cider. Also good
in vinaigrettes.

Recipes

From: Chris McElrath <Mcmariah@AOL.COM>

Mexican Mint Tarragon Chicken

This recipe I have tried and it is quite good. It comes from Lucinda
Hutson's "The Herb Garden Cookbook"

4 boneless chicken breasts
salt and pepper to taste
3 green onions, with tops
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
2-3 Tbsp fresh marigold mint, chopped
3 Tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp. honey2 Tbsp butter, softened
1 Tbsp white wine

Slightly flatten chicken breasts and trim excess fat. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Set aside.
Combine the remaining ingredients to make a thick paste. Place appr. 1 1/2
Tbsp. of the paste on each breast. Roll up tightly. Place seam side down on
a lightly oiled baking dish and dot breasts with any remaining herb
mixture.
Bake in preheated 350 degree oven for about 30 minutes. Slice into
medallions to serve.

Marigold Mint Vinaigrette

1 egg yolk
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp honey
1/4 cup MMM vinegar or tarragon vinegar
1 Tbsp chopped MMM
1/2 cup olive oil
pinch of salt and cayenne

Blend the egg yolk, garlic, mustard, pepper and honey with a fork. Add the
vinegar and chopped herbs; mix well. Slowly whish in the oil in a steady
stream until thickened. Adjust seasonings.

Tomatoes Rellenos

4 med. size tomatoes
Salt
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 Tbsp fresh lime juice
3 Tbsp MMM vinegar or tarragon vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp dried mustard
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp crushed dried red chile
3 tbsp marigold mint, finely chopped
2 tbsp parsley, minced
1 1/2 cups cooked corn kernels, chilled
2 small zucchinis, chopped
4-6 green onions, chopped
1 green or red pepper, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Peel tomatoes (if desired) by plunging them in boiling water for 30
seconds, then immediately immersing them in cold water. Cut tops off
tomatoes and remove some of the pulp. Lightly salt the shells and invert
them on paper towels to drain.
Make the vinaigrette by combining garlic, lime juice, vinegar, olive oil,
dried mustard, tomato paste, brown sugar, and half of the fresh herbs.
Dribble a small amount of vinaigrette (reserve half) into each shell, and
chill.
Combine corn, zucchini, green onion, bell pepper, salt, pepper and the
remaining herbs. Mix with remaining vinaigrette and chill for several
hours.
Generously stuff each tomato with the corn/squash mixture, and drizzle any
remaining vinaigrette over the top.

-----
From: Fran <frich@TENET.EDU>
Following is a really good marinade using Mexican Mint Marigold. It's from
our herb society's soon-to-be-published cookbook. I made it yesterday and
marinated some chicken breasts in it before grilling. Delish!
But first a comment about Lucinda Hutson, from who's book Chris took the
MMM info. She has come down from Austin (to San Antonio) several times to
speak to our club. She is one of the most delightful people! The first time
she had slides of her house and garden - to die for! The next time she
talked about her newest book on tequila and had slides of her travels in
Mexico researching it. She obviously had a *lot* of fun.
Now for the marinade.

Herb Marinade

(Marjie Christopher)

1 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tablespoon dried onion flakes
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Mexican Mint Marigold or French Tarragon
leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Pour wine vinegar into blender jar. Add remaining ingredients; blend at low
speed for 10 seconds. Pour into jar with tight cover and refrigerate.
Makes 1 3/4 cups. Good as marinade for poultry, beef, pork, or lamb.

==========
End of part 3 of 4
==========

--
Henriette Kress             HeK@hetta.pp.fi            Helsinki, Finland
http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed FTP: sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
      /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/
Medicinal and Culinary herbFAQs, plant pictures, neat stuff, archives...
