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         On Making a Utility Quilt

There are many different types of handmade quilts.  Most are made of 100%
cotton for durability and beauty.  However, there may come a time when you
need warm quilts, quickly pieced together.  I am sure our grandmother's
could tell us that warmth beats beauty when we are without heat.  For this
purpose I will talk about scrap quilts made for durability and warmth.

You can make a quilt template from a piece of cardboard, or if you have it,
plastic template material purchased just for this purpose.  There are many
patterns and sizes that you can use to make quilts, but again for utility
purposes we will talk about squares.  A 4 1/2" square is the right size for
this.  Three of these sewn together across, then three rows sewn together
up and down make a 12 1/2" block.

You can use old clothing for your squares.  Old flannel shirts make great
utility quilts.  Simply cut around the worn places in the shirt.  Old 
flannel blankets and other old clothes will also work fine.  Denim is not
a good choice, because it is usually so thick that the needle will not go
through easily. 

You will need quilt batting for the center of the quilt.  I have seen an
old blanket used in the place of batting.  You will need backing for the
quilt.  This can be a flannel sheet, piece of yard goods, old sheet, or
whatever you have on hand.

Draw around your quilt template onto your fabric and cut out your squares.
You then sew them together (right or pretty sides folded together) using a
1/4" seam allowance.  A uniform seam allowance allows for strength.  If
you are using a machine, simply set your seam allowance for 1/4".  Some of
us may be lucky enough to own Grandma's old treadle machine, great in case
of emergency.  (You don't need electricity for those.)  You may also sew
the squares together by hand.  Of course, this is much slower and you will
need to sew over each seam two times.

After sewing several of these nine patch blocks together (three across and
three down) you will have several 12 1/2" blocks.  You may then cut strips
to bind them together.  This can be any width you want.  If you want to 
make fewer blocks, use wider strips.  It is not absolutely necessary to
bind the blocks together with strips, but it makes for less sewing of small
pieces.  If you had plenty of small pieces and little material that could
be used for the strips, then you probably would not want to use the binding.
When your quilt top reaches the size that you want, you are ready to put
it together.

This is done by laying your backing on the floor, free of wrinkles.  Then
you place the batting or blanket on top.  Finally you place your quilt top
on top of that, making a "sandwich."  A few pins placed at the top helps
to keep it from sliding.

Using a darning needle and yarn, heavy thread or twine, you insert the 
needle near the top corner of the quilt.  Pull the thread straight down
through the quilt and very near to the first hole, go back up through
the top.  Pull the needle until the thread is just long enough to tie.
Tie it two times and cut it about 1-1 1/2" long.  Repeat this process
every six to eight inches all the way across the top of the quilt.  Begin
the next row staggered from the top, starting in between the first two
ties.  Smooth all wrinkles out as you work your way down the quilt.  You
can easily tie a quilt within a few hours this way.

Finally, you cut 3 1/2" strips to bind the outer edge of the quilt.  I
usually bind my quilts with a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine.  If
hand sewing you would probably use a blanket stitch.

There you have a utility quilt, warm, and cheap.  Even small children like
to help with the tacking (tieing of the yarn) and larger children can draw
and cut out squares.  These are also good to take camping.  (easily replaced)
