Article: 50537 of rec.guns
From: dputzolu@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (putzolu david)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: rec.guns FAQ 1/4
Date: 21 Oct 1993 09:41:59 -0400
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 1869
Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu
Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu
Message-ID: <2a550d$rcf@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu


Last Modified: 10/20/93

There is still a ton of stuff missing from this FAQ. If you
feel comfortable writing about one of the missing topics,
please email me!


David M. Putzolu - dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu - My opinions 

-------------------------------------------------------------

Outline for FAQ origanization

    Note that this is simply the outline for the FAQ, and it is very
    tentative. Some topics already have been written about - these
    have a * next to them. Other topics are in the process of being
    written about - these have a ? next to them. If a potential
    contributor wants to work on an area with a * or ? already then
    email the maintainer, who will send the completed work, in the
    case of a * item, or send the email address of the person working
    on it, in the case of a ? item. Note that some people don't want
    to be bothered and so their name/email won't be included and
    their contribution will be frozen unless the maintainer feels that
    another person has a significant point to add. Contributors: By
    default, your name and email address WILL appear in this outline
    to facilitate cooperation by people on the various subjects. If
    you do not want your name/email to appear please tell me ASAP.

I.   Introduction
     A. Changes since last posting
	* (David Putzolu, dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu)
     B. Basic Gun Safety
	* (Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht, vdb@ltssg3.epfl.ch)
     C. FAQ Organization, etc.
	* (David Putzolu, dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu)
     D. Legal Disclaimer
	* (David Putzolu, dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu)
     E. Terminology & Acronyms
     F. Why Should I Join the NRA?
	* (Don Baldwin, donb@tamri.com)
II.  Laws
     A. Contact info for ILA & other services
     B. Country Laws
	* (Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht, vdb@ltssg3.epfl.ch)
     C. State Laws
     D. Judicious use of deadly force -- summary.
     E. Relevant Literature
III. Firearm Information by Type
     A. Literature
     B. Revolvers
	1. Commonly Available Cartridges
	   * (Chris Luchini, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu)
	2. Models and Manufactureres
        3. "What to Look for in Buying a Revolver"
	   * (Kirk Hayes, hays@SSD.intel.com)
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	1. Commonly Available Cartridges
	   * (Chris Luchini, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu)
	     (Ed Rudnicki, erudnick@Pica.Army.Mil)
	2. Models and Manufacturers
           a. Glock
	   b. Haemmerli
	      * (Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht, vdb@ltssg3.epfl.ch)
           c. Smith & Wesson
	      * (Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht, vdb@ltssg3.epfl.ch)
           d. Taurus
	      * (Ralph Palmer, rpalmer@think.com)
     D. Rifles
	1. Commonly Available Cartridges
	2. Models & Manufacturers
	   a. Colt AR-15
	      ? (Richard Kinch, kinch@holonet.net)
           b. HK 
	      * (Chris Luchini, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu)
     E. Shotguns
	1. Shotshells and Loads
           a.  Shot Sizes
	       * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           b.  Load weights, shotsize, and Dram equivalents
	       * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           c.  High brass, low brass, and hull length
	       ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           d.  Buffered Loads
           e.  What's a "guage," anyway?
	       * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
	2. Barrels and Chokes
           a.  VR barrels
	       ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           b.  Rifled vs. smoothbore
	       ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           c.  Chokes
	       * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           d.  Barrel length
	       ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           e.  O/U vs. S/S
	       ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
	3. Models & Manufacturers
	   a. Benelli
	      * (Josh Grosse, jdg00@juts.ccc.amdahl.com)
	   b. Beretta
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
	   c. Browning
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           d. Mossberg
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
	   e. Remington
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
	   f. Winchester
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           g. Miscellaneous
	      ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
        4. Miscellaneous 
	   a. Shotgun Fit Parameters
	      * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
           b. The Difference between Trap, Skeet, and Sporting Clays
	      * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
     F. Black Powder Firearms
	? (viking@iastate.edu)
IV.  Comparative Firearm Information
     A. Literature
     B. Double Action v. Single Action v. Safe Action v. Squeeze Cocker
	* (Josh Grosse, jdg00@juts.ccc.amdahl.com)
     C. Glock v. Sig Sauer
	1. The Case for the Glock
	2. Rebuttal
	3. The Case for the Sig Sauer
	4. Rebuttal
     D. Reliability: Semi-Automatic Pistols v. Revolvers
     E. Accuracy: Bolt Action Rifles v. Semi-Automatic Rifles
     F. Bullet Velocity & Weight as related to effectiveness
	1. Fackler's Case
	2. Marshall's Rebuttal.
	3. Marshall's Case.
	4. Fackler's Rebuttal.
     G. Calibre Issues
	1. The case for .45 ACP
	2. Rebuttal
	3. The case for 9mm Parabellum
	4. Rebuttal
	5. Other calibres and their suitability to purpose
	6. Calibre Interchangeability
	   * (James P. Callison, callison@mailhost.ecn.uoknor.edu)
V.   Defensive Use of Firearms
     A. Legal Disclaimer
     B. Literature
	* (Seth Adam Eliot, se08+@andrew.cmu.edu)
     C. Home Defense
	* (Kleanthes Koniaris, kgk@martigny.ai.mit.edu)
     D. Out-of-Home Defense
	* (Kleanthes Koniaris, kgk@martigny.ai.mit.edu, entire section)
     E. I want a pistol for defensive use. Which one should I get?
	* (Seth Adam Eliot, se08+@andrew.cmu.edu)
VI.  Hunting Issues
     A. Calibre Issues
	1. Is .223 ok for hunting?
	2. Is 9mm/7.62*39/.357/.45ACP/etc. good for bears?
	   * (David Putzolu, dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu)
VII. Reloading Information
     A. Introduction to Handloading
	1. Pistol and rifle handloading: "My Adventures in Reloading"
	   * (Henry Shaffer, Coutesy of Anmar Mirza)
	2. Shotgun Handloading
	   ? (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
     B. Progressive v. Standard Reloaders
	1. Accuracy Issues
	2. Price / Expandability
	3. Rate of Production
     C. Manufacturer Information - Bullets
     D. Manufacturer Information - Powders
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information 
	1. Dillon
	2. Hornady (Pacific)
	3. Lee
	4. Lyman
	5. RCBS
     F. Shotgun Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information 
	1. Hornady, MEC, and Posness Warren 
	   * (Scot E. Heath, scot@hpfistu.fc.hp.com)
     G. Custom Loads
	1. Legal Disclaimer
	2. Pistol
	3. Rifle
	4. Shotgun
     H. Miscellaneous
	1. "A Report on the Dedicated Systems Electronic Scale and
	    and Powder Dribbler System"
           * (Chris Luchini, CBL@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu)
	2. "Some Words on Adjusting Dies"
	   * (Henry E. Shaffer, courtesy of Anmar Mirza)
VIII. Techniques
     A. Pistol Techniques
        1. Carry Techniques
        2. Cleaning
           a. Semi-automatics
              * (Josh A. Grossman, jagst18+@pitt.edu)
           b. Revolvers
              * (Josh A. Grossman, jagst18+@pitt.edu)
        3. Presentation
     B. Rifle Techniques
        1. Carry Techniques
        2. Cleaning
        3. Presentation
IX.   Competitive Information
     A. List of Olympic Shooting Events
	* (Jaroslav Liptak, se_lipta@rcvie.co.at)
     B. IPSC Information
X.  Miscellaneous
     A. DCM Summary - "Uncle Sam Sells Garand Rifles to Civilians"
	* (Ron Phillips, crphilli@hound.dazixca.ingr.com)
     B. Bill Ruger Consumer Debate Summary
     C. Lubricants
        1. Information about commerically available lubricants. 
	   a. Prolix
	      * (Peter Alan Kasler, tmi@crl.com)
	2. The Case Against Petroleum Based Lubricants
	   * (Peter Alan Kasler, tmi@crl.com)
     D. Solvents
	1. Don't Mix Shooter's Choice & Hoppe's!
	2. Information about commercially available solvents.
	3. Homebrew Recipies
	   a. Ed's Red
	      * (By Ed Harris of American Rifleman)
     E. Female-Specific Issues Relating to Firearms
	* (Julian Macassey, julian@bongo.tele.com)
     F. The Points System of GCA'68
	* (Larry Cipriani, l.v.cipriani@att.com)
     G. Rob's Quick Guide to Getting a Federal Firearms License (FFL)
	* (Rob Craton, C08926RC@WUVMD.Wustl.Edu)
     H. What about Kids and Guns?
	* (E. Michael Smith, ems@michael.apple.com)
     I. Literature List
	1. Book Reviews by Henry Shaffer
	   * (Henry Schaffer, hes@ncsu.edu)
XI. Contact Information
     A. Gun Rights Organizations
	1. NRA
	   * 
	2. ILA
	   * 
	3. Other Gun Rights Organizations
	   * (Peter Nesbitt, 0005111312@mcimail.com)
     B. Mail Order Guns & Gun Supplies
	* 
     C. Internet Firearms FTP Sites
	* (Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht, vdb@ltssg3.epfl.ch)
     D. Firearms Schools
	* (Ray Terry, rterry@cup.hp.com)
XI. Contact Information
     E. Literature Reviews Available at flubber.cs.umd.edu
	* (Henry Schaffer, hes@unity.ncsu.edu)











I. Introduction
   A. Changes Since Last Posting

by David Putzolu

The REC.GUNS FAQ was last posted on October 7, 1993.

The following list shows a change code followed by a topic
area. The key to these codes is:
C = Change to the topic.
+ = Topic has been inserted or filled in.
- = Topic has been deleted.

Changes since last posting:

   I.  Introduction
+      F. Why should I join the NRA?
   II. Laws
C      B. Country Laws
   III.Firearm Information by Type
       C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
C         1. Commonly Available Cartridges
   V.  Defensive Use of Firearms
C      B. Literature
   VI. Hunting Issues
       A. Calibre Issues
+         2. Is 9mm/7.62*39/.357/.45ACP/etc. good for bears?
   VII.Reloading
       A. Introduction to Handloading
C         1. Pistol and rifle reloading: "My Adventures in Reloading"
   X.  Miscellaneous
C      E. Female-Specific Issues Relating to Firearms
   XI. Contact Information
C      C. Internet Firearms FTP Sites
+      E. Literature Reviews Available at flubber.cs.umd.edu

I. Introduction
   B. Basic Gun Safety

by Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht

Well I guess everybody knows all this perfectly but it is always good
to review these things even if it looks like the first pages of every
gun instruction manual.

Before buying or even handling a gun, one has to realize that it is
something different than any other object in the sense that a gun can
cause serious injury or death. Handling a gun makes you responsible
for what happens with it at that time. If you own a gun, you are
undertaking full responsibility for safety and security at all times.
This means that you have to ensure that you or other people using your gun
with your consent handle it properly. You have to make sure that
nobody can steal or use your firearm without your consent.

The actual rules are: 
---------------------- 
Always treat a gun as if it were loaded until you visually check it
out.

Never point your firearm in any direction you do not intend to shoot.
In particular, do never point your gun in the direction of other
people.

Always have your gun pointed in a safe direction.

Before handling a firearm, understand how it is working.

Do not assume that a gun is secure, i.e. some guns have excellent
security systems to prevent accidental firing (e.g. when dropped),
others don't.

Do not put your finger on the trigger unless you are ready to shoot.

Keep your firearm unloaded when you are not using it.

Never pass your firearm to anybody until you checked that it is
unloaded.

If you have to carry your gun loaded, always point it in a safe
direction (e.g. the ground). Never carry your gun with the hammer
cocked.

You should store your firearm and ammunition in separate locked
places.  Pay particular attention that no child has access to the gun.

Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

If you own a gun for home defense, most of these safety rules will be
violated.  However in some countries, home defense can be important.
You will then probably store your gun loaded in a place that you can
quickly reach if you feel you are threatened. In this case, be really
sure that it is unaccessible to children.  Buy then the safest
possible gun for this purpose. In handguns, revolver are nice in the
sense that they will not fire unless you really pull the trigger. They
have however some disadvantages for home defense (low round capacity,
the hammer has to be cocked manually at each round to be in SA mode).
IMHO, a very good home defense handgun is a Glock pistol. It has large
capacity magazine, is as safe as a revolver and does not suffer of the
SA/DA problem.


I. Introduction
   C. FAQ Organization, etc.

by David Putzolu

   This is the FAQ for rec.guns. It is organized in outline 
form with a list of the topics at the beginning. This FAQ is
a compilation of the writings by various of the people in the
rec.guns forum. If you have any questions that the FAQ does
not answer, please post a message to rec.guns and you will
find lots of helpful, friendly people willing to reply. If
you feel that the FAQ contains incorrect FACTUAL information,
(example: the number of cartridges a Beretta 92FS standard magazine
contains) please contact the maintainer, David Putzolu, at
dputzolu@cs.uiuc.edu.  Include the section that the error is in
as well as the context of the error. If you disagree with some
of the arguments in regards to areas that are a matter of
opinion (example: is a 9mm or .45 better for defensive use?) or
find the arguments to be incomplete, you must provide a complete
re-write of the area in question, which, in any case, may or
may not be included, depending on the judgement of the maintainer
and possibly other self-important individuals. Sorry it has
to be done this way, but I really don't have the time to answer
every nit that someone has to pick with the FAQ. Your other
option, of course, is to post an article on rec.guns on the
subject, and if you find sufficient support to change the FAQ
then it will be changed. 


I. Introduction
   C. Legal Disclaimer

by David Putzolu

The contents of this FAQ and the entire FAQ is simply a
compendium of the writings of many of the knowledgable
people on the rec.guns forum. No part of this FAQ should
be viewed as legal advice. The reader must take full and
complete responsibility for the laws regarding firearms
in his jurisdiction as well as proper safety precautions
involving every facet of firearms and related components.
Any and all of this FAQ may contain errors, and it is the
responsibility of the reader to check with his local
law enforcement authorities as to the laws which dictate
how, when, why, and where he may use firearms in any
situation.

Note that each article in this FAQ is the intellectual
propery of it's author, who retains the copyright to it.
Permission is explicitly given to distribute this FAQ
in its entirety via any electronic medium. Permission
is explicitly denied to publish this FAQ in any printed
medium. In order to gain permission to reproduce any
part of this FAQ in a printed medium the person/organization
wishing to publish said part of it must get the individual
permission of each and every author whose writings
he wishes to publish.


I. Introduction
   E. Terminology & Acronyms



I. Introduction
   F. Why should I join the NRA?

by Don Baldwin

Dear fellow shooter,

I asked to write this part of the FAQ because I thought that having a
liberal Democrat advocate joining the NRA would make a point regarding
our firearms rights and the preservation thereof:  that we're all in this
together and that we had all better do as much as we can do protect those
rights, NOW!

The NRA is a very controversial organization in some circles and has taken
a lot of heat from both sides of the gun debate.  Some pro-gunners are
contemptuous of its compromises, while gun control advocates call it
inflexible for NOT compromising.  Whatever your view, it is a sure thing
that if the NRA did not exist today, we would now be living under
gun laws as bad as those in Great Britain and similar countries.
"Needs-based" licensing, registration, arbitrary bans on whatever is called
the criminals' "weapon of choice" by those seeking to make easy political
points at the expense of law-abiding citizens, storage requirements that
make defense use practically impossible...these are the laws we would
almost certainly be living under today, if the NRA did not exist.

Since becoming active in the area of gun rights, I have read a bit about
some of the charges made against the "inflexible" NRA...that they oppose
all gun control laws, that they specifically opposed laws banning "cop
killer" cartridges.  The fact is that the NRA proposed an Instant Background
check as a better alternative to the Brady Bill's waiting period but that
proposal was turned down by the gun control advocates, despite the fact
that a background check could block some sales of guns to criminals and
waiting periods could not.  I have also found out that the NRA *SUPPORTED*
the law banning "cop killer" bullets, once that law was refined to the point
where it would not ban ordinary hunting cartridges.

Aside from their political advocacy of gun rights, the NRA also provides
a number of valuable community services:  gun safety materials and classes,
shooting competitions and criminal justice reform policy suggestions that
would punish violent criminals HARD.

Today, the media and opportunistic politicians are attacking gun rights
and the NRA as never before.  Please join the NRA today and help make
sure that they do not get their way!

     Don Baldwin



























II. Laws
    A. Contact info for ILA & Other Legal Services


II. Laws
    B. Country Laws 

by Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht
slightly changed by Holger Reusch.

Laws vary a lot among countries, changing from very liberal in
the US to dramatically painfull in the UK. In this section, I am not
going to give a complete description of the laws of every country but
just give a short summary of the relevant facts (i.e. can you purchase
gun? what type? is carry allowed?).

Holger Reusch <holger@vmars.tuwien.ac.at> maintains a collection of
law excerpts from various countries. The files can be obtained by
anonymous ftp from ftp.vmars.tuwien.ac.at (128.130.39.16), directory
/pub/misc/guns/gunlaw. If you need more information, you should check
there.

Please realize that such informations may be not totally accurate and
that you always should doublecheck with the local authorities. Neither
I, nor the people who contributed to the list maintained by Holger
take any responsibility for the content of such texts or any actions
you may take based on said content. Check with a lawyer or your local
police to in whenever you are unsure about firearms laws in the
jurisdiction in which you live.

Two things seems to be the same in every country: if you want to buy a
gun that requires a permit, you'd better have no criminal record, and
you need to be over 18 (21 in the US for handguns).

Australia
---------
Laws vary highly from state to state. Some states will ask for a good
reason to buy a gun, others won't. License is required. Full-auto
weapons are illegal. Carry is not allowed.

Austria
-------
Need permit for handguns and number of handguns is limited to 2 (5 for
hunters). Need special permit for carry. No permit for rifles or
shotguns.

Belgium (Not verified yet!)
--------
Permit is needed. carry is illegal. I *think* there is no restriction
on caliber or number of guns.

Canada (This data from Greg Booth and Keith de Solla) 
-------
Need a permit and 2 references to buy a gun. no other restriction I think.
Permit requires background check, photos.
Handguns and some semi-auto rifles must be registered and require special
permits.
Registered firearms require a good for one year permit for
transport to/from gun clubs.
Single use permits required to transport registered firearms elsewhere.
Full-auto prohibited. Many semi-auto firearms and some bolt action rifles
prohibited.
Concealed Carry Permits theoretically legal, but practically unobtainable.

Finland
-------
Permit requires a good reason. Pocket pistols (i.e. barrel < 4") are
very difficult to get (usually for security officer). Full auto are
very hard to get (need to be considered as a collector).

France
------
Permit is difficult to obtain. you cannot own more than on "war
caliber" (i.e. 9mm, .380 ACP, .40 S&W, .45ACP). Carry is illegal

Germany (Hunter information thanks to Lars Stein)
-------
If you are considered as target shooter, you can only have 2-3 small
caliber gun (<.32) and one large. Storage can be checked by police.
Hunters may buy an unlimited number of guns > 60 cm long.
Handguns are limited to a total of two revolvers or pistols.
Fully-automatic weapons are illegal. Rifles and shotguns
are limited to 2+1 rounds.
Hunters may only carry their gun to, from, and during hunting.
Carrying in public is illegal without a hard-to-get special permit.

New-Zealand
-----------
Permit with picture is required and only valid for 10 years. Assault
rifle requires particular license.

South Africa
------------
Permit with fingerprint required. Full auto and semi auto rifles are
very difficult to obtain. Concealed carry is allowed. no restriction
on handguns.

Sweden
-------
Need permit and a good reason to buy firearm. Full auto
forbidden. carry is illegal. no limit on the number of guns (depends
on your needs).

Switzerland
------------
Permit is required but easy to get. no limitation of caliber or number
of guns. Full auto available for collectors only. Concealed carry is
legal except in 2 states.

The Netherlands
----------------
You can ask for a permit after a year of membership in a club. Need
certificate from the club. No more than 5 guns. Full auto is illegal.

United Kingdom
---------------
Need good reason to buy a gun (this is discretionary). Carry is
illegal. Police ensure for secure storage and use of the gun
(discretionary as well). You have to be member of a club.

USA
---
No real permit, just fill in a form at the gun store. Full Auto is
available but strictly regulated. Concealed carry is legal. Some
restriction may be brought by state/county or city laws.


II. Laws
    C. State Laws


II. Laws
    D. Judicious Use of Deadly Force -- Summary



II. Laws
    E. Relevant Literature
































III. Firearm Information by Type
     A. Literature


III. Firearm Information
     B. Revolvers
	 1. Commonly Available Cartridges

by Chris Luchini

Here in follows the list of commonly available calibers for
revolvers, sorted by 'caliber'

22 Short
22 Long Rifle
22 Magnum
32 H&R Magnum
38 Smith&Wesson
38 Special
357 Magnum
357 Maximum
41 Magnum
44 Russian
44 Special
44 Magnum
445 SuperMag
45 Colt (or Long Colt)
454 Casull (spelling)


III. Firearms Information by Type
     B. Revolvers
	3. "What to Look for in Buying a Revolver"

By Kirk Hayes.

Well, here's a list of some things I look for when buying a used
revolver.  I collect S&W revolvers, so it is, somewhat, specific to
S&W.

However, most of this applies to any revolver.

I've got 20 years experience buying used revolvers, and, yes, I've
bought a dud or twenty over the years.  Remember that it is rarely
worthwhile to buy a damaged gun, thinking you'll get it fixed. 
It's cheaper to buy new than to buy damaged.

On the other hand, easily repaired damage can be used as a
negotiating point.

Finally, don't be afraid to walk away - let someone else buy the
bad ones.

Before you start, make sure the weapon is unloaded, and ask
permission to dry-fire it.  Observe all safety rules.

1.  Is the yoke bent?  

Look at the yoke (aka "crane") when the cylinder is in the closed
position.  The gap between the frame and the yolk should be very
narrow, and the same width top to bottom.

A bent yoke can be caused by a number of things, the most common of
which is "flipping" the cylinder closed, as seen in the movies.

A bent yolk can be fixed, but it is rarely worthwhile.

2.  Look at the hole in the frame through which the bolt extends. 
Is it burred or oversized?

Again, can be fixed, is not usually worthwhile.

3.  Look at the topstrap above the forcing cone.  Is it flame cut
excessively?

I regard flame cutting that is more than 2/3 the width of the
topstrap as excessive.

4.  Look at the firing pin hole.  Is it peened out?

This is a minor repair if not too excessive, and not repaired
before.

5.  Point the weapon in a safe direction.  Cock the hammer, and,
with your finger off the trigger, press forward on the hammer spur.

If the hammer falls, put the gun down and walk away.

6.  Repeat the following for each chamber.

	1.  Cock the gun using the hammer, slowly.  Does the bolt 
	    lock up when the hammer goes to full cock?
	2.  Is the cylinder gap excessive (take feeler gauges)?  Is
	    it the same for each chamber.
	3.  Is there excessive slop fore-and-aft?
	4.  Does the hammer move to the rear any further as the 
	    trigger is pulled?
	5.  Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

7.  Repeat six (6) while holding a thumb lightly against the
cylinder.

8.  Repeat the following for each chamber.

	1.  Cock the gun using the trigger, slowly.  Does the bolt 
	    lock up before the hammer falls?
	2.  Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

9.  Repeat step eight (8) with the revolver inverted.  This will
get you strange looks, many times, but shows up problems that might
otherwise be missed.

10.  Repeat step eight (8) with a thumb riding lightly on the
cylinder.

11.  Is the revolver cylinder scored excessively between the bolt
holes?

12.  Is the cylinder star damaged in any way?  Pay particular
attention to the cams the hand pushes on.  Look at the hand for
damage.  Push the ejector rod as far back as it will go - did it
bind, or is it bent?  Are the star locator pins present and
unbent/unbroken?  Is the knurling on the ejector rod unblemished?

13.  If you are lucky enough to have a timing rod, which is a piece
of precision-ground steel that will fit down the bore, check to be
sure each chamber aligns with the bore, cocking the hammer to lock
the cylinder with the bolt.

14.  Look at the sideplate screws.  If burred, walk away unless you
feel lucky.

I generally ask, if the screws are burred, for the sideplate to be
removed, but this is an entire subject area by itself...

15.  Run your thumb and forefinger down the barrel - you're looking
for bumps and rings.

16.  Look down the bore.  Use a borescope if you have it, a piece
of white cloth or your thumbnail at the recoil plate, whatever
you've got to get light in the bore.  Be very suspicious if the
bore is dirty, as a dirty bore can cover a multitude of sins.  If
it is dirty, ask to have it cleaned.

Looks for pits, rust, rings, etc.

Look at the forcing cone for splits and erosion.

17.  Examine the chambers for damage - flame cutting, bulges
(particularly under the bolt holes), dents, corrosion.

18.  Examine the sights for damage - look for "square" with the
rest of the gun.

19.  Examine the firing pin tip.  A chipped one can be repaired,
easily.

20.  Examine the finish, markings, etc.  A non-even surface,
rounded edges where they should be sharp, or washed out markings
can be evidence of a refinished gun.  Ask.

21.  I'm sure I've forgotten something, so feel free to contribute,
everybody... 

-- 
Kirk Hays - NRA Life, seventh generation.
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to
do nothing."  -- Edmund Burke (1729-1797)

III. Firearm Information by Type
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	1. Commonly Available Cartridge Types

by Chris Luchini and Ed Rudnicki

Cartridges with the same actual bore diameter are grouped together


Common US Name        Synonyms                          Notes

.22 Short
.22 Long Rifle        .22/5.6mm Lang fuer Buechsen
.22 Magnum

.25 ACP               6.35mm Browning

.30 Luger             7.65mm Parabellum
7.62mm Tokarev        7.62x25mm                         1,2
.30 Mauser            7.63mm Mauser                     1

.32 ACP               7.65mm Browning

.380 ACP              9mm Short/Kurz/Corto              3
9mm Police            9x18mm, 9mm Ultra                 4,5
9mm Luger             9x19mm, 9mm Parabellum, 9mm NATO  5,6
9x21mm                                                  5,7
9mm Largo             9mm Bergmann-Bayard               8
.38 ACP                                                 9
.38 Super                                               9

9mm Makarov           9x18mm                            4,5

.40 S&W               .40 Smith & Wesson
10mm                                                    10

.41 AE                .41 Action Express

.45 ACP
.45 Win Mag           .45 Winchester Magnum

.50 AE                .50 Action Express


NOTES:

1. Some sources consider these interchangeable, and some military users
(notably the Chinese) treat them as such. There are dimensional differences,
and it is best to use the correct cartridge.

2. Czech-produced 7.62x25mm cartridges are loaded to higher pressures and
should only be used with Czech Vz.52 (CZ-52) pistols.

3. Not to be confused with _.38_ ACP.

4. These are not interchangeable. 9x18mm Police/Ultra uses a .355"/9mm dia
bullet, while 9mm Makarov uses a .363"/9.25mm bullet.

5. Where used, the second number in a cartridge designation (i.e. 9x19mm)
denotes cartridge case length. Although all cartridges can be designated
thusly, here it is used only where it is consequential.

6. 9mm Luger/Parabellum is available in many power levels. 9mm NATO is
loaded to pressures substantially higher than most commercial ammunition
and is only suitable for use in modern pistols designed for it and in
good condition. Always follow manufacturers' instructions in this regard.

7. 9x21mm is the same as 9mm Luger except that the cartridge case is 2mm
longer.

8. The similar 9mm Steyr will function safely in 9mm Largo firearms. It
may not feed properly in all of them.

9. .38 Super is a higher pressure loading of .38 ACP, and should only be
used in firearms properly marked for its use.

10. Two distinct power levels are available for this cartridge: a full-power
load and a reduced load giving ballistics similar to .40 S&W. All 10mm
pistols will safely handle both.



There are a number of traditional revolver cartridges for which semi-
automatic pistols have been adapted:

     .32 S&W
     .38 Special
     .357 Magnum
     .41 Magnum
     .44 Magnum


III. Firearm Information by Type
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	2. Models and Manufactureres
	   a. Glock

By. David Putzolu

By far the best semi-automatic pistol every made. The Glock has
the best pointability, best finish, highest capacity, and most
durability of any semi-automatic pistol in every calibre it is
chambered in. The superiority of the Glock is confirmed by the
lack of articles by proponents of other semi-automatics, who
are too embarrassed of their guns to have the courage to write
about them, particularly Sig Sauers and Berettas.

For the humor impaired: This is a hint! Write me articles about
your semi-automatic of choice, and why! I need a serious one
about Glocks as well.


III. Firearm Information by Type
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	2. Models and Manufactureres
	   a. Haemmerli

By Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht

Haemmerli is a swiss company that belongs to the SIG group. I know they
are producing rifles but I cannot tell you about them. Regarding .22LR
pistols, they are producing very high quality handguns that are
especially designed for competition. Haemmerli is said to be the
company that produces the better and most accurate .22LR
barrels. Models that are currently in use are the 208, 215 and 280,
although the 208 and 215 are not produced any more.

The 215 is probably the most popular. Its prices is around 1000$ in
Switzerland. It has a barrel of 5 or 6" (can't remember), blue finish,
has a wooden anatomic grip. Weight is said to be around 50 oz. (1.4
kg) but it is definitely lighter (probably around 40 oz). You can add a
compensator.  An upgraded version is the 215S that offers an
adjustable trigger stop.  I have been shooting this gun for about 6
months and it is definitely a very good precision handgun.

The 208 is a limited series. It is said to be the best .22LR pistol
ever made by haemmerli. If you want one, the only thing to do is try
to find somebody selling his but this is very rare and this gun is
worth a lot of money. Second hand price: around 1300-1600$ in
Switzerland. 

The 280 is a new model, and in fact, the only model in actual
production. Once again it is a very good pistol. However many people
told me they like the 215 better and even some gun seller will
recommend you to buy a second hand 215 than buy a 280 in their store!
The gun is very big, the grip is huge. A particularity: magazine is
not in the grip but in front of the trigger guard. Specs are close to
other haemmerli (blue finish, same weight, same barrel length).


III. Firearm Information by Type
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	2. Models and Manufacturers
	   c. Smith & Wesson

by Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht

After having fired my instructor's haemmerli for a few months, I
decided to buy a precision .22LR pistol and I looked at a few
company. I definitely wanted a very good gun since I was used to the
quality of haemmerli. Having discussed with several shooters and guns
sellers, my choice narrowed to the beretta 89, the haemmerli 215/280
and the Smith and Wesson 41. I discarded the beretta since several
people told me that it was not as good as the other ones. Finally, I
went for the S&W 41, recommended by my gun dealer. The 41 is the best
.22LR made by S&W. Frankly, if you want to do some serious practice,
don't even take a look at the other S&W .22LR (422, 622,
2206,...). These guns are good if you just want to do some occasional
practise or if you are not sure you want to invest in a gun. If you
want to do some serious shooting, they will not be good enough
(too light, bad trigger, not precise).

The 41, on the contrary, is, in my opinion, a very good gun for
smallbore competition. It has all the quality required: a very smooth
trigger, great balance, very good weight (48 oz.). It comes in 5" or
7" barrel, blue finish, wooden grip, and, of course, ajdustable
sights.  Compared to an haemmerli, I think it is very close in quality
and I strongly recommend this gun. About price, I don't know how much
it can cost in the US (S&W told me 750$). In Switzerland it cost
1300Frs.


III. Firearm Information by Type
     C. Semi-Automatic Pistols
	2. Models and Manufactureres
	   d. Taurus

By. Ralph Palmer

	Review of the Taurus 99AF

The PT92 (fixed sites) and PT99 (adjustable sites) are either summarily
dismissed as clone guns or embraced as "just as good as Beretta for a lot
less money".  I found them to be neither, but rather good guns for the money.
My friend who liked the Beretta but not the price, bought a used 99AF, and
I've had the chance to give it the once over.  Once again here is my poor
attempt at a review.  Praise be to the spell checker.

The decision to buy the Taurus used was intentional.  After all if
something didn't work right it was covered by the lifetime warranty.  Why
shell out the extra 25% just to be the first to run lead down the barrel?
I've heard complaints about the Taurus repair turn around time, but none
about the quality of their repairs or them trying to screw the customer.
After a month of tracking the pitifully few gun stores in the area, my
friend found his match, a older nickel plated 99AF.  From the outside it
looks just like the Beretta, but with a decent rear site.  A closer look
revealed a 1911 type safety that allows for cocked and locked carry,
something not available from a Beretta 92FS.  This was an older model in
that it has the 2 position safety, without the decocker on the current
model.  This means that to carry condition two (hammer down, chamber
loaded) you must keep you wits about you, and hammer drop manually 1911
style.  The next shot can then be fired double action.  I think there is
also a series 80 style firing pin block, but don't risk you life on it.

The gun was in mint shape, the only wear was in the Brazilian hardwood
grips.  They still looked pretty good, I'm glad that Taurus is putting that
pesky rain forest to good use.  We took the piece over to my shop to give
it a once over.  The gun strips easily, Beretta style.  A closer
examination of the slide showed some unevenness in color in the nickel
plating, purely cosmetic.  The aluminum frame also had some color variation
across the the anodized coating.  Tooling marks were quite evident inside
of the slide, especially on the flat area that rides across and cocks the
hammer.  The slide and frame rails were smooth, although it was clear
that not much time is spent finishing areas that are not critical to the
operation of the weapon.  This is in stark contrast to the Beretta, where
it appears that all areas get an almost equal treatment.  Whether this
concerns you is a matter of taste.  If you are looking for a functional
weapon you don't care.  If you are picky, obsessive, anal retentive,
and a perfectionist about mechanical parts, such as this author, it is a
real turn off.

The gun is a frustrating copy of the Beretta 92 family.  I say
frustrating because although it shares many features, none of the parts
interchange and the little differences in linkages and pin locations make
it a truly separate design.  Not even the magazines are swapable.

After a quick cleaning and a polishing of the barrel feed ramp to help me
justify my Dremal purchase we headed to the range.  We brought a box of UMC
harball, a box of Black Tallon, and a coffee can of my home grown reloads.
The adjustable rear site is much easier to see and far superior to the
Beretta.  It stands a bit taller and has sharper edges, although who's
kidding who, this is not a concealed carry gun.  The accuracy seemed the
same as the Beretta, at least as could be determined by two guys on
sandbags, 50 ft away.  It ate all the ammo and ejected cleanly.  The
trigger pull was *the same* as on the Beretta.  Closing your eye and
pulling the trigger (on an unloaded gun!) you could not tell the difference.

My friend is please as punch although I have some mixed feelings.  The gun
is the FUNCTIONAL equivalent of the Beretta.  The guns fits in the hand the
same, the trigger pull is the same, and it goes bang when you pull the
trigger.  The main design difference, the 1911 cocked and locked safety, is
a matter of personal choice.  However it not the SAME gun for less money.
The level of finish is not even close.  The fit of the slide and trigger IS
the same, but the rest of the work is not up to Beretta standards.  I guess
it is all how you approach your firearm.  If you sweat the details, love a
good piece of machine work, are attracted to the historical lore and are
willing to pay one quarter to one third more, buy the Beretta.  If you are
a no nonsense person who just wants to put the bullet were the gun is
aimed, and are willing to trade some finishing details for $100 go with the
Taurus.  Either way I think that you'll be pleased.


III. Firearm Information by Type
     D. Rifles
	1. Commonly Available Cartridges


III. Firearm Information by Type
     A. Rifles
	2. Models and Manufacturers
	   1. Colt AR-15

by Richard Kinch


III. Firearm Information by Type
     A. Rifles
	2. Models and Manufacturers
	   2. HK

by Chris Luchini

The HK series of weapons commonly avaiable in the US consists of
the HK-91 (7.62 Nato) HK-93 (5.56 Nato) and HK-94 (9mm Nato).
All these rifles share common features, namely, the locking
system consists of a roller locked inertial bolt, which operates
as a delayed direct blow back action. Also the chambers of all these
rifles contains shallow flutes starting just ahead of the web of the
case, and ending just in front of the case mouth. The supposed function
of these flutes is to 1) reduce case adhesion to the chamber walls,
thus preventing the rapidly moving bolt from tearing off the case
head, and 2) assisting is very positive extraction even if the
extractor is missing, as the trapped gasses in the flutes blows the
case out of the chamber. The need for these flutes is very much in
doubt in HK's smaller caliber weapons, though, like the Weatherby
belt, they do function as an effective trademark.

Since these rifles are not gas actions, they are very tolerant
of variations in cartridge pressure and loads, they function
quite well with high intensity and low intensity loadings.

The simple action effectivly eliminates jams on extraction and
ejection. The aftermarket 'port buffer' intended to correct the
HK rifle's tendency to fold rifle cartridge brass in half by
slamming in on the rear of the ejection port, may occasionally
cause the brass to bounce back into the ejection port, causing
a jam. If you are depending on this rifle to defend you life with,
you probably will not be concerned with scavenging your brass anyway,
and can remove the port buffer to gain the extra measure of
reliability.

Jams can also be caused by soft-nose bullets deforming on loading,
mangled magazines, or by an very soft grip on the gun. None of these
jams are intractable, but they can happen so be forwarned.

Accessories commonly found on the HK rifle/carbine's are the
Claw scope mount, running in the neigherbor hood of $300 for the
HK version to $150 for clones of the HK claw mount, to $50 for
a set-screwed scope mount of dubious utility and durability available
from B-Square and others.

Port buffers, already mentioned, keep your fired brass in better shape.
The issue Bayonette is a multi-function tool that will keep you
gadgeteers happy for hours.

Bipods come in two flavors, a light bipod which slides in the
front of the forend, and a heavy bipod, of which I've never seen
in person.

The HK rifles have quite a following, so aftermarket parts
and custom smithing is fairly available. Williams Trigger Specialties
of White Heath IL (area code 217) does a great job on triggers, and
there are a large number of sources for Muzzle brakes, stocks, and related
items.
 

D. Shotguns
   1. Shotshells and Loads
      a. Shot Sizes
	
by Scot E. Heath.

                                   SHOT SIZES


According to my Winchester reloading guide:

  Shot number  |  diameter (inches)  |  diameter (mm) |  no. of pellets
               |                     |                |      in 1 oz.
_______________|_____________________|________________|_________________
               |                     |                |
     00        |         .33         |      8.4       |        8.1
               |                     |                |
   4 BUCK      |         .24         |      6.1       |         21 
               |                     |                |
     BB        |         .18         |      4.6       |         50
               |                     |                |
      2        |         .148        |      3.76      |         90
               |                     |                |
      4        |         .129        |      3.28      |        135
               |                     |                |
      5        |         .120        |      3.05      |        170
               |                     |                |
      6        |         .109        |      2.77      |        225
               |                     |                |
      7.5      |         .094        |      2.39      |        350
               |                     |                |
      8        |         .089        |      2.26      |        485
               |                     |                |
      9        |         .079        |      2.01      |        585
               |                     |                |
     12        |         .05         |      1.3       |       2300
               |                     |                |
_______________|_____________________|________________|_________________
 

D. Shotguns
   1. Shotshells and Loads
      b. Load weights, Shot Size, and Dram Equivalents
	
by Scot E. Heath.

                               DRAM EQUIVALENT

This is an antiquated measure based on the amount in drams of black powder
it took to propel a certain mass of shot at a certain velocity.  Therefore,
dram equivalent is proportional to both velocity and shot mass.  The common
dram equivalents for different shot masses are:

           |   Shot   | Velocity |  Drams   |
   Gauge   |   oz.    |   fps.   |  Equiv.  |
___________|__________|__________|__________|
10 - 3-1/2"    2          1210      4-1/4
10 - 3-1/2"    2-1/4      1210      4-1/2
___________|__________|__________|__________|

12 - 2-3/4"    1          1180      2-3/4
12 - 2-3/4"    1          1290      3-1/4

12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1145      2-3/4
12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1200      3    
12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1255      3-1/4
12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1300      3-1/2

12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/4      1220      3-1/4
12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/4      1330      3-3/4

12 - 2-3/4"    1-1/2      1260      3-3/4
___________|__________|__________|__________|

12 - 3"        1-3/8      1295      3-3/4

12 - 3"        1-5/8      1280      4    

12 - 3"        1-7/8      1210      4    
___________|__________|__________|__________|

16 - 2-3/4"    1          1165      2-1/2

16 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1185      2-3/4
16 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1240      3    
16 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1295      3-1/4    

16 - 2-3/4"    1-1/4      1260      3-1/4
___________|__________|__________|__________|

20 - 2-3/4"      7/8      1210      2-1/2

20 - 2-3/4"    1          1165      2-1/2
20 - 2-3/4"    1          1220      2-3/4

20 - 2-3/4"    1-1/8      1175      2-3/4
___________|__________|__________|__________|

20 - 3"        1-3/16     1195      3-1/2

20 - 3"        1-1/4      1185      3
___________|__________|__________|__________|

28 - 2-3/4"      3/4      1200      2    
28 - 2-3/4"      3/4      1295      2-1/4    
___________|__________|__________|__________|


D. Shotguns
   1. Shotshells and Loads
      b. High Brass, Low Brass, and Hull Length
	
by Scot E. Heath.


D. Shotguns
   1. Shotshells and Loads
      d. Buffered Loads
	
by Scot E. Heath.


D. Shotguns
   1. Shotshells and Loads
      e. What's a Gauge Anyway?
	
by Scot E. Heath.

                            SHOTGUN GAUGE AND CHOKE


The gauge number of a shotgun is the number of lead spheres the same
diameter of the bore it takes to equal 1 pound mass.  The density of lead
is 710 pounds/cubic foot.

The common shotgun bore diameters are then:

  10 gauge = .775 inches
  12 gauge = .729 inches
  16 gauge = .662 inches
  20 gauge = .615 inches
  28 gauge = .550 inches

These figures are all nominal and in fact, many competition guns have bores
larger than nominal to increase the velocity of standard ammunition.  One
barrel maker here in the United States makes a 12 gauge barrel with a bore
of .780 inches!


Choke in a shotgun is the amount of restriction from the bore to the
muzzle.  To determine choke, the bore as well as the muzzle inside diameter
should be measured due to variations in the diameter of the bore.  Briley,
a large manufacturer of specialized barrel liners, choke tubes, etc rates
their chokes as follows:

  .000 restriction - cylinder
  .005 restriction - skeet
  .010 restriction - improved cylinder
  .015 restriction - light modified
  .020 restriction - modified
  .025 restriction - improved modified
  .030 restriction - light full
  .035 restriction - full
  .040 restriction - extra full

The chokes most typically used in shooting American trap are the improved
modified or the full.  Many older guns have much more restriction than that
listed in this table.  As ammunition has improved over the years with
better wads and lower pressures, the need for such tight chokes has really
been eliminated for most shooting and in fact, is a detriment in many
cases.

-Scot


III. Firearm Information by Type
     E. Shotguns
	 2. Barrels and Chokes
	    a. VR Barrels

by Scot E. Heath


III. Firearm Information by Type
     E. Shotguns
	 2. Barrels and Chokes
	    e. Rifled vs. Smoothbore

by Scot E. Heath


III. Firearm Information by Type
     E. Shotguns
	 2. Barrels and Chokes
	    c. Chokes

by Scot E. Heath

# By the way, is there any book I can get to help figure out when to use what
# choke?  I use a Skeet choke for Skeet, Improved Cyl for Trap, and an Improved
# (U)/Modified(O) combination for Trap doubles.  But I haven't the foggiest
# of when I need to change chokes for Sporting Clays.  I know I can pattern
# my gun, but what is considered an optimum pattern?

You are the first person I have spoken with who actually uses too open a
choke for the sports you described.  To choose a choke, you need to
estimate the distance at which you will be breaking the target.  Sporting
clays is by far the most difficult to judge due to the wide variety of
situations encountered.  Let me see if I can give you a "rule of thumb"..

In trap singles, you stand 16 yards behind the thrower.  The average trap
shooter breaks the targets at around 40 yards.  The chokes used typically
range from modified to full.  This means that the actual pattern range is
enormous since a choke is considered modified with as small as .015"
restriction while a choke is considered full with as much as .045"
restriction.  I personally shoot an improved-modified (NOT Improved
Cylinder) choke for trap singles, handicap (27 yard) and the second shot in
trap doubles.  My particular improved-modified choke is .025" restriction.
I chose this choke by 1) patterning my gun and 2) noteing the way the
targets break when I shoot them.  My choices were modified (.015"
restriction), improved-modified and full (.035" restriction).  At 40 yards,
the modified choke in my gun with my loads gave about a 36" pattern that
was "full of holes" meaning that there were several areas on the paper that
were big enough for a target to fit with no holes.  The improved-modified,
on the other hand, gives about a 30" pattern that is very uniform.  The
extra 10 yards in handicap is a concern but I have chosen to shoot #8 shot
from the 16 yard line and #7.5 from the 27 yard line.  My #7.5 loads
pattern enough tighter than my #8 loads that my patterns are nearly
identical 10 yards apart.

For trap doubles, I use the modified choke for the first shot.  This is
because the first shot in trap doubles is typically broken at around 30
yards and at that distance, the pattern from the modified choke looks fine.  

I normally tell people to choose the choke they think will work and then go
1 choke more open because as components improve, patterns from the same
choke get tighter.  Todays modified choke is typically as tight at 40 yards
as a full was 20 years ago, due entirely to the improvements in shells.

In your case, I would say go 1 choke tighter than you have been using in
trap.  I don't know what your particular chokes measure but I would use at
least a modified for singles and perhaps a modified/full for doubles
although, if you have a tight chokes, your combination for doubles could be
ok.

One way to judge is by how hard the birds break.  If you get right in the
center of one, you should just "powder" it.  If you never get anything but
big pieces,  you are shooting too open a choke and because of smaller
pellet concentration, you will have birds that should break but don't.  If
you are getting alot of "dust" off targets but they don't break, you could
be using too open a choke.

# I sort of think of the chokes as gears... if I get a 30-inch pattern with
# Skeet at 16, then I need to change to Improved to get a 30-inch pattern at
# 20.  Will this type of approach work?
# 

This is the correct approach but as I said, there is such a wide variety of
restrictions called the same thing, the only way to know how your
particular gun shoots is to pattern it.  A skeet choke typically has about
a .005" restriction and this is because the distance at which most skeet
targets are broken is between 5 and 15 yards.

When I shoot sporting clays, I try and relate the shot I have to make to a
shot in either skeet or trap, something with which I am vastly more
familiar.  I typically shoot #8 shot and then choose a choke based on my
estimated "shot relation".  If the shot is an incomming over the head type,
like pad 8 in skeet, I use a skeet choke.  If it is a springing teal
launched from 20 yards or less, I will use Improved/cylinder, maybe
modified.  One of the courses I shoot has a station where the targets come
out over your head and move away from you.  It's a true pair and the first
target is broken at about 30 yards, the other at about 50.  I use improved
-cylinder, improved-modified for this station.

To give you somewhere to start, estimate the distance at which you will
break the target and then use the following table:

  distance  |   choke
____________|___________
            |
  0-15 yds  | skeet
            |
 10-25 yds  | improved-cylinder
            |
 20-35 yds  | modified
            |
 30-45 yds  | improved-modified
            |
 40-55 yds  | full
            |
  > 50 yds  | prayer


As far as books go, I think one of the best books I have read which covers
a wider variety of disciplines is "Finding the Extra Target" by John Linn
and some senator who wanted to get his name on the book.  John Linn is the
winningest coach in Collegiate Trap shooting and unfortunately, just passed
away this year.  The book is available from, I believe Shotgun Sports
magazine.  I unfortunately have loaned my copy out so I can't give you any
more specifics right now but I will remind myself to do so in 2 weeks or
so.

Good shooting,

-Scot


III. Firearm Information by Type
     E. Shotguns
	 2. Barrels and Chokes
	    e. O/U vs. S/S

by Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   a. Benelli

By Joshua Grosse

                      Benelli Shotguns

Benelli Armi S.p.A. manufactures some 20 models of
autoloading 12 gauge shotguns.  The Benelli shotguns are
noted for having a very fast recoil-inertia operation,
rather than the more common and somewhat slower gas operated
systems found in most other autoloading shotguns.  The
Benelli design incorporates a rotating bolt head, which
provides both extraction and ejection in a single component.

The recoil system has two recoil springs.  One is between
the rotating bolt head and the bolt, and the other is
located behind the receiver assembly inside the stock.  The
first spring delays opening the action until the shot has
left the barrel, the second spring pushes the bolt back
towards the chamber and operates the carrier latch and
carrier to load a subsequent round from the magazine.

The "Super Black Eagle" models have 3-1/2" ultra magnum
chambers.  The rest of their products are chambered for 3"
magnum shotshells.  The "M1 Super 90" models are available
with a variety of barrels, including short barrels for their
Defense, Tactical, and Entry models.  The "Montefeltro Super
90" models are M1 receivers with walnut stocks.  The "M3
Super 90" models have pump action capability.  The shooter
has control over pump or autoloading action.

On the positive side, Benelli shotguns have a reputation for
high reliability, fast operation, low weight, and ease of
maintenance.  On the negative side, their low weight and
recoil operation are noted for producing a larger degree of
felt recoil than their competitors.

In the United States, Benelli shotguns are distributed by:

     Heckler & Koch
     21480 Pacific Blvd.
     Sterling, VA   20166-8903

     703-450-1900


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   b. Beretta

By Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   c. Browning

By Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   d. Mossberg 

By Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   e. Remington

By Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   f. Winchester 

By Scot E. Heath


III. Individual Firearm Information
     D. Shotguns
	3. Models and Manufacturers
	   g. Miscellaneous 

By Scot E. Heath


III. Firearm Information by Type
     D. Shotguns
	4. Shotgun Fit Parameters

by Scot E. Heath

Here is a brief description of the typical shotgun fit parameters:

Typically , a shotgun is adjusted for:

  Length of pull
  Comb drop
  Stock cast
  Pitch
  Cant

All these parameters are dependent upon proper gun mount and proper
stance.  If you have doubts, get some instruction as to proper gun 
mount/stance.

The length of pull, cast, pitch and cant, should remain very consistent gun 
to gun.  The drop is somewhat different, depending upon the rib configuration.
Remember, your eye is your rear sight.  The angle the bore line makes with 
the line of sight from your eye through the bead to the target determines 
the vertical position of the shot string relative to your line of sight.  
If the rib on the gun already has some angle (farther from the bore centerline
to the top of the rib at the back of the rib than the front), you do not need 
to raise your eye above the rib surface as far to get the gun to shoot as high
as one with no angle on the rib (or no rib).  I believe the best way to 
determine drop is to first get the length of pull correct and then pattern 
your gun.  With this information, you can determine the amount of delta drop 
necessary to move the center of the pattern where you want it relative to your 
sight picture.

The correct length of pull is defined to be such that with the gun mounted,
a space of 1/2" to 1" exists between the nose and the thumb on the stock
grip hand.  This is typically checked by mounting the gun and checking to
see that 1 or 2 fingers will fit between the nose and thumb.

The hardest adjustment to make is cast.  This is the amount the stock (or
comb) is left or right of the bore centerline.  To determine if you need cast
adjustment, with the length of pull and drop set correctly, mount the gun
with your eyes closed.  Open your eyes and see if the beads are perfectly
in line with each other in the horizontal plane.  If you need to move your
head slightly left or right, the cast should be altered.  If you need to go
to the right (whether you are right or left handed) the stock needs to be
"cast off".  If you need to go to the left, the stock needs to be "cast on".   

Pitch is the angle the rear of the stock makes with the bore line.  If it
is 90 deg. the gun has zero pitch.  When the gun is resting flat on its
butt, the barrel typically leans either towards the rib or forearm side.
The ideal pitch is such that when you mount the gun, the butt (or recoil
pad) contacts your shoulder evenly in the vertical plane, i.e. it does not
dig in at the heel or toe of the stock.  Pitch can be affected
significantly by recoil pad selection and should be adjusted at the same
time length of pull is adjusted.

Cant is the "twist" of the gun when mounted.  Twisting the gun results in
your eye not being straight above the bore centerline.  The more you "cant"
the gun, the farther off it is and the higher your eye above the bore
centerline, the worse the effect of cant.  To correct for cant, the butt of
the gun is made to be at the shooters preferred angle while the bore and rib
centerlines are perfectly vertical.  Again, the best way to test for cant
is to mount the UNLOADED gun with your eyes closed and have someone view
you from the muzzle of the gun.  If the gun is "twisted", cant adjustment
should be done.

Both cant and cast can be compensated for by the shooter by altering mount
and head placement.

The following can be done to make all the adjustments listed above:

Length of pull:

  Shorten stock by cutting.  
  Lengthen stock with spacers or different pad.
  Install adjustable hardware.


Drop:

  Remove comb material to lower.
  Add layers of material (typically vinyl, cloth, moleskin) to raise comb.
  Install adjustable hardware.


Pitch:

  Cut stock at desired angle.
  Install angled shims.
  Change recoil pad.


Cast:

  Remove stock material.
  Add layers of material (typically vinyl, cloth, moleskin).
  Install adjustable hardware.
  Have stock bent.


Cant:

  Install adjustable hardware.
  Have stock bent.


Each of these methods varies in price, durability and aesthetics.  Your
approach should fit your goals.  Please don't hesitate to contact me if you
have any questions.

-Scot

 
III. Firearm Information by Type
     E. Shotguns
	4. Miscellaneous
	   b. The Difference Between Trap, Skeet, and Sporting Clays

by Scot E. Heath

# What is trap shooting, skeet shooting and sporting clay shooting ?
# Specifically, what is the difference between the three ?

Here is as brief an answer as I can give you about the three (actually 5) games
you mentioned.  I am dead sure about the ATA trap section, the rest is as
near as I can recall, take it with a grain of salt.


American trap shooting, as governed by the Amateur Trap Shooting is
composed of three different events.  Singles, Handicap and Doubles.  All
events are shot on a field consisting of a house 5 runners spaced ~ 12 degrees
apart and extending from 14.6 meters (16 yards) to 24.7 meters (27 yards) 
behind the house (top view shown below).


                       *****************************
                        ***************************
                         *************************
                          ***********************
                           *********************
                            *******************
                             *****************
                              ***************
             TARGET PATH       *************
                                ***********
                                 *********
                                  *******
                                   *****
                                    ***
                                     *
                                    ___ 
             HOUSE --------------> |___|

  


                                 . . . . .
                                .  . . .  .
                               .  .  .  .  .
             RUNNERS ---->    .   .  .  .   .
                             .   .   .   .   .
                            .    .   .   .    .
                           .    .    .    .    .
                          .     .    .    .     .
                         .     .     .     .     .
                        .      .     .     .      .
                       .      .      .      .      .
                      .       .      .      .       .



Targets are thrown out of the house in a random arc but always at the same 
height.  A total of 25 targets (50 in doubles) are shot in each sub-event on 
any one field.  There are typically 5 contestants at a time, one on each 
runner.  Beginning with the contestant on the far left runner, each contestant 
in turn calls for and receives a target (2 in doubles) then fires one shot at 
each target.  After each contestant has fired 5 shots (10 in doubles), the 
contestants move one position to the right and the contestant on the far right 
moves to the far left station.  Typically, a total of 100 targets are shot
at by each contestant in any event, singles, handicap or doubles.

Contestants all stand at the 16 yard line in singles and doubles.
Contestants stands at various distances from 17 to 27 yards in handicap,
depending upon past performance.

Equipment is limited to shotguns no larger than 12 gauge and shells of a
maximum of 1-1/8 oz of shot and 3 dram equiv. powder.

International trap shooting differs quite a bit from ATA trap.  A top view
of the field is shown below.


              *****************************************
               ***************************************
                *************************************
                 ***********************************
                  *********************************
                   *******************************
                    *****************************
                     ***************************
    TARGET PATH --->  *************************
                       ***********************
                        *********************
                         *******************
                          *****************
                           ***************
                            *  *  *  *  *
                           _______________
    BUNKER -------------->|_______________|

  



    PADS -----------------> .  .  .  .  .


Instead of one machine in the house, there are 15 machines in the bunker,
three per pad.  Each machine is pre-set for an angle and height and does
not vary during any sub-event, however, the competitor does not know from which
of the 3 machines related to any particular pad the target will be thrown.
The targets are thrown much faster than in ATA trap.  A sub event consists
of 25 targets but they are shot differently than in ATA trap.  As soon as
the competitor on pad 1 (the left most pad) shoots, he/she moves to the
right behind the competitor on pad 2.  When the competitor on pad 2
shoots, he/she moves to pad 3 and is replaced by the competitor from pad 1.
This pattern of shoot/move/shoot/move is repeated non-stop until each
competitor has fired at 25 targets.  One of the main differences is that a
competitor may fire at all targets 2 times, a hit on either shot counts as
a dead target.

Equipment is limited to shotguns no larger than 12 gauge and shells of a
maximum of .75 oz of shot and 3-1/4 dram equiv. powder.


American skeet is shot on a field as shown below.



   LOW HOUSE                                                       HIGH HOUSE
   TARGET PATH ---> ********                           ********* <-TARGET PATH
                            **********         ********
                                      *********
                            **********         *********
   HIGH      __   _ ********              _             ******** _   __   LOW
   HOUSE--> |__| |_|1                    |_|8                  7|_| |__|<-HOUSE



                      _                                      _
                     |_|2                                  6|_|

                                _                   _
                               |_|3               5|_|
                                          _
                                         |_|4


The field consists of 8 pads, 7 of which are arranged in a semi circle and
the eighth at the center of the semi-circle, and 2 houses where the target 
throwers reside.  The targets are always thrown in exactly the same direction 
and at exactly the same height.  The target out of the high house starts at 
approx 3.5 meters off the ground and is thrown nearly horizontally.  The 
target out of the low house starts at nearly ground level and at the point 
the target paths cross, is the same height as the high house target, 
approximately 3 meters.

Once again, a total of 25 targets are fired at by each competitor.  The
competitors take turns shooting from the pads in the order they are
numbered with all competitors finishing each pad before proceeding.  A
perfect round of skeet is shot as noted below:

Pad 1 - One high house target, one low house target, one of each thrown
        simultaneously (known as a pair).  Nearly all competitors shoot the 
        target from the house they are standing closest to first when shooting
        a pair.

Pad 2 - One high house target, one low house target, one pair.

Pad 3 - One high house target, one low house target.

Pad 4 - One high house target, one low house target.

Pad 5 - One high house target, one low house target.

Pad 6 - One high house target, one low house target, one pair.

Pad 7 - One high house target, one low house target, one pair.

Pad 8 - One high house target, two low house targets.

If a competitor misses a target, he/she will immediately attempt to shoot
an identical target again ONLY ON THE FIRST MISS.  When this happens, the
last low house target on pad 8 is eliminated.

Equipment is limited to shotguns no larger than 12 gauge and shells of a
maximum of 1-1/8 oz of shot and 3 dram equiv. powder for the 12 gauge
contest.  There are typically also 20 gauge, 28 gauge and .410 bore
contests as well; I don't know what the requirements are for equipment
here.


International skeet is shot on a field identical to the American field, but
the competitors must start with the butt of their guns touching an
imaginary line running around their hips at the point of the hip bones.
In the previous three games, contestants are allowed to shoulder their guns
before calling for a target.  In International skeet, there is a random
delay from 0 to 3 seconds from the time the contestant calls for the target 
and it actually appears.  The target sequence is somewhat different and
doubles are shot from every station.


Sporting Clays is widely varied.  Most courses consist of 50 targets but
they can be thrown in limitless configurations.  This game requires the 
competitors to start with the butt of their guns below their arm pit until
they see the target.

This is the fastest growing of the shotgun sports.  It was originally
intended to simulate a variety of hunting situations and is an enormous
amount of fun!


If you're interested in more detail, I suggest you visit your local library.
If you're interested specifically in ATA trap, the address for the ATA is:

  Amateur Trapshooting Association
  601 West National Road
  Vandalia, Ohio  45377

The governing body for the international games in the United States is the
NRA.  If your not a member, you should be and you can write/call them for
info.


Good Shootin'!

-Scot


- End of segment one/four of the rec.guns FAQ -




Article: 50538 of rec.guns
From: dputzolu@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (putzolu david)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: rec.guns FAQ 2/4
Date: 21 Oct 1993 09:42:01 -0400
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 1026
Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu
Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu
Message-ID: <2a552b$rdu@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

























IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    A. Literature


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    B. Double Action v. Single Action v. Safe Action v. Squeeze Cocker

by Josh Grosse.

     Double Action / Single Action / Proprietary Actions

Handgun cocking system terminology comes originally from
revolver usage, and has been adapted to autoloading pistols.
The systems are Double Action (DA), Single Action (SA), and
Double Action Only (DAO).  DAO means that a DA handgun which
does not work in SA mode, too, since DA implies SA capability.
Heckler & Koch, and Glock proprietary systems are also described.

     Revolvers - DA:  If the handgun is not already cocked,
     during the trigger pull the mechanism cocks the hammer
     and turns the cylinder, before firing.

     Revolvers - SA:  You must cock the hammer manually.
     Pulling the trigger will not cock the hammer.

     Revolvers - DAO:  You cannot cock the hammer manually.
     These are usually "hammerless" revolvers, where the
     hammer is an internal mechanism.

     Autoloading - DA:  If the handgun is not already
     cocked, during the trigger pull the mechanism cocks the
     hammer before firing.  Unlike a DA revolver, which
     remains hammer down after firing, in an autoloading DA
     the hammer will be re-cocked during the loading of the
     next round.  Sometimes these are called DA/SA to
     distinguish them from DAO pistols.

     Autoloading - SA:  The hammer must initially be
     manually cocked.  The hammer will be re-cocked
     automatically during the loading of the next round.

     Autoloading - DAO:  The hammer can not be manually
     cocked, nor is it cocked by the loading mechanism.  The
     trigger pull cocks the hammer each and every round.
     These pistols may have internal or external hammers.

     There are two proprietary systems available.  Glock
     pistols have what the vendor calls a "Safe Action."
     The pistol is operated as if it is DAO.  There is no
     hammer, external or internal.  Instead, there is a
     firing-pin tang held by the triggering mechanism.  The
     ready pistol is in a half-cocked state.  Squeezing the
     trigger completes the cocking, then releases the tang.
     It's trigger pull is consistent, like DAO pistols, but
     the Glock's standard trigger has a much lighter pull,
     similar to SA pistols.

     Heckler & Koch P7 series pistols have a squeeze
     mechanism on the front of the grip, which cocks the
     hammer.  They behave, therefore, like SA pistols in
     their trigger pull (light, consistent) but do not
     require the "cocked and locked" safety systems of SA
     autoloading pistols.

     Your choice of cocking systems is a personal decision.
     Please talk to your NRA Safety Instructor, spend time
     with your firearm dealer, and learn about the various
     models before you make your decision.

     Whatever you decide, remember that a DA system should
     not be selected to "safely" hold someone at gunpoint
     with your finger on the trigger.  An accidental
     discharge is possible, and under stress, it may even be
     likely.  Only place your finger inside the trigger
     guard once the decision to fire has been made.

     Practice your safe handling procedures EACH AND EVERY
     TIME you pick up your firearm.  You'll be safer, and
     people around you will be safer, too.


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    C. Glock v. Sig Sauer
       1. The Case for the Glock

The Glock is just plain obviously much better than the Sig - it
isn't even worth listing the 1000 ways. :)

(hint!)


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    C. Glock v. Sig Sauer
       2. Rebuttal 

The Sig has no rebuttal.

(hint!)


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    C. Glock v. Sig Sauer
       3. The Case for the Sig Sauer

OK, we pro-sig people admit it: The Sigs are just junk - no
better than Norinco, really, so just buy a Glock. :) :) :)

(hint!)


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    C. Glock v. Sig Sauer
       4. Rebuttal

See! Even the Sig people admit they made a mistake! :) :)

(hint!)


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    D. Reliability: Semi-Automatic Pistols vs. Revolvers


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    E. Accuracy: Bolt Action Rifles vs. Revolvers


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    F. Bullet Velocity & Weight as Related to Effectiveness
       1. Fackler's Case

Everyone else is wrong. Fackler has published something or other,
so he must be right. :)

(Another hint! This should get someone to write something!)



IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    F. Bullet Velocity & Weight as Related to Effectiveness
       2. Marshall's Rebuttal

Everyone knows Fackler is a quack anyway. :)

(Yet another hint!)



IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    F. Bullet Velocity & Weight as Related to Effectiveness
       3. Marshall's Case

Well, I just make up some one shot stop numbers and everyone seems
to believe me!




IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    F. Bullet Velocity & Weight as Related to Effectiveness
       4. Fackler's Rebuttal

Well, I'll shoot Marshall because everything he says is
lies, damn lies, and ballistics anyway! But I'm really a calm
person at heart and most people really like my friendly personality.



IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       1. The Case for .45 ACP


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       2. Rebuttal


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       3. The Case for 9mm Parabellum


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       4. Rebuttal


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       5. Other Calibres and their Suitability to Purpose


IV. Comparative Firearm Information
    G. Calibre Issues
       6. Calibre Interchangeability

by James P. Callison

This only applies to revolvers (due to the (generally) different
headspacing between revolvers and autos), but here's a shortish
conversion chart:

	Revolver	Can fire
	--------	--------
	.22WMR		.22WMR, .22lr (with appropos cyl.)
	.357Mag		.38Spl, .38 S&W(?), 9mm (w/ appropos cyl.)
	10mm		.40 Short&Wimpy :-)
	.41Mag		.41Spl (I think it's called .41 Spl; it
				was developed after the .41Mag)
	.44Mag		.44Spl, .44 S&W, .44 Russian(?)
	.454 Casull	.45LC, .45ACP(?)


























V. Defensive Use of Firearms
   A. Legal Disclaimer


V. Defensive Use of Firearms
   B. Literature

by Seth Eliot (eliot@cmu.edu)

Your very first step is to educate yourself.  You've taken
that step by reading this FAQ, but there are some very good
books available that can provide more detailed information:

* "The Women's Guide to Handguns: A Primer for Safe Self-Defense"
   by Jim Carmichel (out of print)
This provides a good all around (if not a little out of
date) introduction to handgun operation, caliber selection,
shooting, and other topics useful to both men and women

* "Armed and Female" by Paxton Quigley
Similarly useful for men and women. This book has the
advantage of being more recent and still in print

* "In the Gravest Extreme" by Massad Ayoob
This book discusses the situations under which a gun may be
used in self-defense and the implications of such use

* "Stressfire" by Massad Ayoob
A book a various shooting techniques, from shooting stances
to flashlight/gun combinations.  This is most useful after
you've purchased and become comfortable with your gun

* "Shoot to Live: Gunfight Survival" by Massad Ayoob, 1990,
  Lenny Magill Productions [1-800-942-TAPE]).
  Reviewed by Patrick Casey (jpcasey@indiana.edu)
This is a 60 minute videocassette tape of an interview with Ayoob by Lenny
Magill. Material covered includes the following:
AYOOB'S PERSONAL HISTORY AND TRAINING
OVERVIEW OF THE DATA 
WHAT GOES ON IN A GUNFIGHT 
WEAPONS 
AMMUNITION 
HOME DEFENSE 
WHEN DO YOU USE LETHAL FORCE? 
WHERE TO AIM 
SHOTGUNS & SELF-DEFENSE 
ONE SHOT STOPPERS 
KEYS TO SURVIVING A GUNFIGHT


V. Defensive Use of Firearms
   C. Home Defense

By Kleathes Koniaris

Legal Disclaimer:

The information in this section does NOT CONSTITUTE a recipe for
defense of your home; instead, it is only intended to give you an idea
of the issues that you must think about, and the questions that you
must ask of your lawyer and the local police.

                                -----

In the event that you have to "defend your home," a wide variety of
things might happen:

(a) you might be arrested and charged with crimes

The police might find that you acted improperly and arrest you, much
to your surprise.  Before firing or even brandishing a weapon at
someone, you should be very knowledgable about the laws of your state
*and* with their interpretation in the courts.  You may not agree with
the laws and courts in your state, but you will be subject to them,
just as the intruder(s).

(b) you might be subject to a civil law suit

You will likely be sued in civil court, whether or not criminal
charges are pressed against you, and whether or not you end up
mortally wounding someone. (His or her estate can often sue you in the
case of a mortal wound.)  You will have to pay for your own defense,
and it *will* be expensive.

(c) you might make an error and kill/injure somebody by accident

You might mistake your target and kill a "good guy," or make a error
in handling your weapon, resulting in a fatal "negligent discharge,"
perhaps due to all of the the excitement.  In any event, even if you
avoid financial and legal entanglements, this could result in severe
emotional problems due to guilt and remorse.

If you leave weapons unsecured in your house,

(d) they could be discovered and operated by your children

(e) they could be discovered and operated by your friends

(f) they could be used by an intruder against you

Therefore, given all of the things can go wrong in defense of your
home, we strongly advise you to:

-- SEEK THE ADVICE OF YOUR LOCAL POLICE
-- LEARN THE LOCAL LAWS THAT APPLY TO YOU
-- SECURE ANY PERMITS THAT YOU NEED FOR WEAPONS
-- TAKE CLASSES WHERE YOU LEARN ABOUT SHOOTING AND DEFENSE
-- READ A WIDE VARIETY OF BOOKS ON SHOOTING AND DEFENSE
-- PRACTICE YOUR HANDLING OF WEAPONS
-- SHOOT OFTEN AT THE RANGE

V.B:  Literature

???

V.C.1:  How to Defend your House

                              ---Note---

NOTE: This section is written on the assumption that you wish to
protect yourself against "random intrusion" in your home.  However,
there are situations where a person actually knows or suspects that
some specific individual intends to intrude into their home.  One
example that comes to mind pertains estranged boyfriends/girlfriends
or spouses who get upset over unrequitted love and make violent
threats as a consequence.  If the reader finds themselves in this
situation, they should immediately seek the advice of the police.

                          ---End of Note---

There is an old adage which is well suited to home defense: "an ounce
of prevention is worth a pound of cure."  We shall see that true
security comes from preventive measures, and that the firearm should
be viewed as the absolute last resort.

Consideration must begin from far outside the residence.  The first
step is to attract the least amount of attention to you and to your
residence.  Are there some public locations, like a bus stop, perhaps,
which provide a clear view of the inside of your residence?  If one
can easily look inside your residence from a public area, then it is
possible that you or your belongings might catch their eye; perhaps it
is better to draw the appropriate shades.

Next, consider the grounds of your residence.  They should have the
property that anyone on them can be seen or detected by someone in
your dwelling, or by a trusted neighbor.  If your grounds are dark and
inviting, and covered with large amounts of dense cover, they might
encourage an uninvited visitor.  It is probably wise to cut bushes
back so nobody can hide behind them.  Another alternative is to use
bushes that grow very dense thorns.  The yard should have good
lighting so that people cannot "lurk in the shadows."  Electronic
lights which turn on when they detect motion (by means of infra-red
radiation emitted by the body) are both inexpensive and very useful to
put outside your residence.

It is also important that you know the phone numbers of your
neighbors, and that they know yours.  This way, they can alert you (or
the police) if they notice something odd, and you can return the
favor.

Your residence should be reasonably difficult to enter.  This includes
being careful not to leave the windows open, the alarm system off, the
key under the front door mat, etc.  Bars can be placed on both
basement and first floor windows to make entry through a window
difficult.  You must also give consideration to somebody climbing up
some simple path and gaining entry on the second floor.  However, make
sure that you can exit in the event of a fire!  It would be most
unpleasant to be trapped in a burning house due to window bars that
cannot be opened from the inside.

You should be sure that your locks are of reasonable quality.  Low
quality locks can be opened in moments.  How many other people have
copies of the keys to your residence?  For example, if you have just
moved into an apartment, was it re-keyed for you?  What is to
guarantee that the prior tenant and his or her friends do not have a
key to your residence?  The locks, door, and frame should be very
stout to prevent easy entry with a kick or two.  You would like the
door to provide a significant delay before somebody can gain forced
entry, so you have time to take protective measures.

Inside your residence, you should have an alarm system.  You should be
sure to have infra-red (or microwave) motion detectors, switches on
the various doors, breakage detectors on patio doors, etc.  Your
should use your system in "perimeter" mode when you are at home, and
turn on all of the detectors when you are out.  A dog makes a loving
pet and a fine addition to your security.

If you return home and disarm your system, it should make a special
noise to warn you that it has been triggered.  Instead of entering
your home, it might be wise to call the police, instead; it is not a
good idea for you to investigate, since you are probably not trained
or equipped for the job.  Also, you must consider the possibility that
whoever might still be inside has gained access to your own weapons,
in addition to their own.  (Therefore, it is wise to store your
weapons in a secure and heavy safe.  In some states, your firearms
license may be revoked if your weapons are stolen, under the theory
that you are not responsible enough to keep them.)

Next, you must consider the other residents of your abode.  If your
housemate is a drug user who is behind on his crack payments, you
might consider kicking him out, or moving, before somebody comes over
to collect the money that they are owed.  If you are not happy with
some of your housemates, or the company that they keep, replace them.

Finally, if one is in their home, and the alarm system goes off, or
there is the sound of forcible entry, the following procedures could
be employed:

(a) Run to your saferoom (often the bedroom), collecting your family
(b) Lock the saferoom door, which could be strengthened
(c) Secure your shotgun, and load it
(d) Call the police
(e) Wait behind cover

If the person who enters your residence knocks an extension phone off
the hook, you might be unable to dial.  In this case, it is useful
that your home is wired in such a way that you can disconnect all
extensions from your saferoom and still dial.  (Of course, if you have
a cellular phone, you can use that.)

If you can hear somebody on the other side of the door, don't be sure
that it must be the intruder(s).  Could it be

 -- the police, trying to help you?
 -- a fireman?
 -- something else?

If you are not sure about who the intruder is, don't be too quick to
assume that it is a serial killer.  Could it be:

 -- the police, looking for somebody else?
 -- a fireman?
 -- a frightened and frantic neighbor running to you?
 -- a drunken friend of a housemate?

Is somebody starts to break into your saferoom, you probably should
*NOT* shoot through the door.  In general, it is wise to hold your
fire until you can *CONFIRM* your target.  At the very least, you
should loudly demand that the person on the other side of the door
identify himself or herself.

If their entry appears to be inevitable (say the door has just broken
down), you have to decide if you wish to stop their actual entry.  The
laws that cover these issues change from state to state, but if you
are confident that the person who is attempting entry has the intent
of causing serious bodily harm or death, it might be a good idea to
fire upon them.

If you choose to stop somebody's entry, fire repeatedly using either
"0" or "00" buckshot loads. Your shotgun comes with sights for a
reason---use them.  You should fire at the intruder's torso until they
cease being a threat to you; then, you should *STOP* shooting.

If your shotgun does not seem to be having much effect after a few
rounds, is it possible that they are wearing body armor, so you could
then fire at their pelvis or head, which is probably not guarded.

Your intent is *NOT* to kill them; it is only to defeat their entry,
in an attempt to protect yourself and family from harm.  Once you stop
them, render aid if it is safe to you to do so.  The safest way to
render aid is to call an ambulance.  The fact that you rendered aid
can be used to demonstrate that your intent was simply to stop someone
from harming you.

Of course, it is difficult to know how many intruders are in the
house; so, you must be very careful and attentive.  The sound of your
shotgun going off will probably deafen you, and your ears will be
ringing, so be careful that somebody else does not enter---you may be
unable to hear them.  Some argue that you should wear active hearing
protectors in your safe room; see the literature section.

When the police arrive, you have to be very careful that they will not
shoot you by accident, particularly if you are running around with a
weapon; it must be very difficult for them to tell the difference
between a "good guy" and a "bad guy."

In the event that you are involved in a shooting, it is probably wise
that you speak with legal counsel before saying too much to the
police.  In any case, depending on the state you are in, your weapons
may be seized and your license may be revoked pending a full
investigation into the matter.  Do not resist these actions, as
resistance may be used against you when you try to recover your
weapons and license.  Instead, seek out legal counsel immediately.

V.C..2. Shotgun or Pistol?

In a word, shotgun!

The pistol has two advantages: it is portable and compact.  However,
these advantages are irrelevant in the home, *unless* you carry it at
all times on your person.  If you are going to store your pistol in
your saferoom, its compact nature is irrelevant.  If you spend all of
your time with a pistol, you must be *extremely* careful that you do
not make an operating error and shoot somebody by accident.

The pistol fires a single bullet which lands at a point, so you must
aim very well in order to hit a target with a damaging shot.  If you
must fire in a darkened room, it is very difficult to see the sights
and aim properly.  Therefore, you must be sure to secure tritium
sights, which glow in the dark so you can aim with them.  These sights
have to be replaced every five years, since they become dim.  You
might also consider a laser sighting system, but make sure that the
batteries are good and fresh!

The shotgun is an extremely powerful and flexible weapon, and it is
reasonably forgiving in terms of errors in aiming, since the buckshot
will spread.  Be sure to select the choke that will adequately spread
the shot pattern given the distance from your saferoom's place of
cover to your saferoom's door.  The shotgun is considered by most
experts to be the ultimate defensive weapon, since it can be fired
rapidly, with great terminal effect.  Shotguns can be fitted with
"magazine extensions" that let them hold up to eight rounds of
ammunition.  (Some state and local laws place an upper limit on the
number of rounds your shotgun can hold.)  The shotgun can also be
fitted with tritium sights, which are a very good idea, as well as
flashlights, lasers, etc., even though most of these options are not
needed.

The rifle is also another extremely powerful weapon, but it is not
well suited to home defense.  The rifle round is so powerful that it
will go through a considerable number of walls, possibly killing
innocent people elsewhere.  At short distances, the shotgun is a more
effective weapon than the rifle; there is no "home defense" situation
that I can think of that would require the long-range accuracy of a
rifle.

Finally, no matter what weapon you select, you must be sure that your
children or friends cannot get their hands on it.  This is very
important, since some states have laws that punish the owner of a
weapon if a child gains access to it, and since jurors in a civil
court may consider an improperly secured weapon as gross negligence on
the part of its owner.  Many people play with weapons even though they
don't understand them, and few things could be more tragic than your
defensive arm being responsible for the death or serious injury of a
friend or family memeber.  You might wish to consider a cabinet with
an electronic lock on it to keep your weapons secure, and you might
consider training classes for the adult members of your household.


V. Defensive Use of Firearms
   D. Out-of-Home Defense

by Kleanthes Koniaris


----------------------------------------------------------------------
        D. Out-of-Home Defense

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Just as in home defense, the first idea is that an ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure.  By this, one should stay out of trouble, or
situations that might lead to trouble.  For example, if you are in the
middle of a heated argument over a parking space, give it up.  How did
you get in such an argument in the first place?  It's not worth it.
Don't worry, you're not a "wimp."

If somebody calls you scumbucket, or whatever, don't take the bait and
fight.  Don't feel that you must "defend your masculinity" or
demonstrate how "tough" you are.

Maintain your car and be sure that it will not break down in a bad
neighborhood.  (Try to stay away from bad neighborhoods, in passing.)
Always leave 1-2 car lengths in front of you when you stop.  That way,
you may have room to manuver and get out.  Your car windows should be
rolled up and doors locked.  Do not leave valuable things like a purse
on the front passenger seat, as somebody can "smash and grab"---keep
it on the floor, or in the trunk.  If somebody bumps you from behind
at low speed, think twice before you stop and get out; could it be a
carjacking?  Keep all shooting supplies, targets empty ammo boxes,
radios, etc. out of sight; don't invite attention to your car or
belongings.

Some of your "nasty" friends might be a lot of fun, but you should
stay away from them---in the long run, they might get you in some
serious trouble.  Don't invite criminal attention: don't wear
excessive jewelry, flash stacks of hundred-dollar bills, etc.  Don't
put stickers on your car that advertise expensive things that might be
inside it.  Ask your local police for advice about safety.

If you obey rules of this nature, it is relatively unlikely that you
will be threatened.  However, it is possible that even though you try
to stay out of trouble, it might come to you.

Carrying a pistol provides you with a last means to protect your life
if you feel that you are about to be killed or seriously injured.
Many people---mainly males, for some reason---confuse a pistol with a
means of defending their virility, a guarantee that they can tell
other people to "f*** off" with confidence; they mistakenly think that
flashing their "piece" is a means of saying "don't f*** with me, I'm
one tough S.O.B."  These people are confused, and *their* pistol is
merely a means of getting them killed or imprisoned, because such
behavior is both *illegal* and *dangerous*.  If one breaks a law with
a pistol, it is *very* easy to end up in prison.  Would you want to go
to the big house over something as stupid as pulling your gun out to
scare an obnoxious drunk patron who spat upon you in a bar?  Of course
not....

If you decide that you want to carry a pistol, first you must see
about securing the required concealed carry permits from the police.
In some places, they are very hard---or impossible---to obtain.  If
you are in this unfortunate situation, you can do nothing more than
try to lobby your local government, or consult a lawyer, depending on
the specifics of your case.

Next, you have to attend a safety/defense classes.  The pistol is such
a difficult weapon to use that it takes a lifetime to master.  You
should constantly practice shooting if you are serious about carry, at
distances that are typical of gunfights---3ft to 30ft.  You should
take as many classes as possible.

V.D.1: Selection of Weapon

You should fire a wide variety of pistols in order to decide what you
wish to purchace.  Your pistol should probably be a self-loading
"automatic," in either 9mm, .40S&W, or .45acp.  Calibers that are
smaller than 9mm are questionable unless you are an extremely good
shot.  (If you can place two shots on an index card in about one
second at 20 feet, you should carry whatever you want, even a .22lr;
everybody else is probably better off with 9mm.)

Your pistol should have tritium sights.  These sights contain an
isotope of hydrogen (3H) which is in a capsule that glows in the dark.
If you have to shoot at night---which is the case in 70% of all
gunfights---they let you use your sights.  If you have a pistol like a
Glock 17, you probably don't need a second magazine, as the weapon can
hold up to eighteen rounds.  If you have a smaller pistol, like an HK
P7, which can hold up to eight rounds, you might want a second
magazine.

Your pistol should have a modern "jacketed hollowpoint" (JHP) rounds
inside it.  Brand names like Golden Saber, Black Tallon, and Gold Dot
are typical of this type of ammunition.

You should resist impractical pistols like Desert Eagles and the like.
Unless you are massive, you probably will never be able to hide them.
Huge revolvers are very difficult to shoot rapidly and accurately, and
the muzzle blast can blind you, making it difficult to use the
sights---this is *unacceptable*.  Finally, if the round is too
powerful, it will pass through the target (assuming that you hit
them), and through lots of other things, too, which is also
unacceptable.  You have a responsibility to be reasonable in your
selection of ammunition.

You should get a high-quality pistol.  Pistols are described elsewhere
in this FAQ.  Consider pistols from HK, Glock, SIG, Taurus, Colt, etc.

V.D.2: Concealment

Where should you put your pistol?  For men, the best place is in an
"inside the pants" holster.  If you wear a suit, you might be able to
get away with a shoulder holster, but you must be very careful that it
does not show through.  Your co-workers will probably get very upset
if they realize that you have a pistol, particularly if you work in a
city, where most people do not shoot or understand guns.  If you get
an "inside the pants" holster, you probably should get a few pairs of
larger pants and see your tailor.  Be sure to wear the empty pistol in
a holster to insure proper fit.

Women can put their pistol inside a bag, but it might be difficult to
reach.  (The pistol should not be free inside the bag; it should be in
a special holster.)  Also, an aggressor might be very interested in
the bag.  A woman can also use an "inside the pants" holster, but it
is difficult to look stylish this way.  While quite ugly looking, one
of the best choices for women is a "fanny pack" holster.  If you can
get something like this custom-made for you, it is probably a good
idea, since the common brands can be recognized by people with a good
eye, which is to be avoided.

There are numerous other places to hide a pistol---like ankle
holsters, belly bands, etc.,---but they are not very useful or
practical.  Unfortunately, the right holster for you depends on the
shape of your body, the amount of clothes that you wear, etc.  This
issue is often discussed at length in gun magazines, but you should
study some catalogs to see what is possible.

If you buy a holster, you should get a custom high-quality leather
model which is specific to your pistol.  A list of holster makers is
provided elsewhere in the FAQ.

V.D.3: Mode of Carry

There are several ways to carry a pistol, C-1, C-2, C-3, and C-4.

C-1: This holds for pistols like the Colt .45.  The pistol is "cocked
and locked," meaning that you draw it, flip off the safety with your
thumb, and start shooting.

Many people advocate C-1 carry, but I think that they are mistaken,
for reasons that will be discussed shortly.

C-2: This holds for pistols like the SIG/Sauer.  The pistol is loaded,
but the hammer is down.  When you draw the pistol, the first shot
demands that you pull the trigger though a very long motion.  The
remaining rounds can be fired with a lighter trigger.  C-2 carry is
considered safer than C-1 carry, and there are no safties to take off.
Most modern designs are C-2.

C-3: This mode of carry can be used for any pistol.  The pistol is
kept with an empty chamber, with all of the safeties off.  When the
pistol is drawn, the slide is "racked" back and released to put a
round into the chamber moments before shooting.  This is an extremely
safe mode of carry, since even a malfunction of the pistol will not
result in an accidental discharge.

C-4: This mode of carry has an empty pistol with no ammunition in it.
The pistol must be drawn, the magazine inserted (putting it into C-3),
and then the slide must be drawn back and released before the weapon
is ready to fire.  C-4 demands the operator to find two things, the
pistol and the magazine, and combine them; this might not be a good
idea under a high-stress situation.

C-3 is probably the best mode of carry.  Correct presentation of the
pistol involves putting your hand on the butt, clearing the holster,
putting your hands together, pulling the slide back as you bring the
pistol in front of your line of sight, obtaining the "Weaver" stance,
and then using aimed fire.  Because the "racking" of the slide is
"pipelined" with the presentation, C-3 does *not* take longer than
C-1.

The major problems with C-3 carry is that you need two hands to do it,
and it might therefore be useless if you are jumped at very short
distance.  However, if you opt for C-3 carry, you must *ALWAYS*
practice it, and nothing else.  (Racking the slide on a draw must be a
habit that you don't have to think about.)

YOU SHOULD ALWAYS INSPECT AND CLEAN YOUR PISTOL, so it is clean and
happy, no matter what your chosen mode of carry is.

V.D.4: When to draw or shoot?

Three conditions have to met before you can even consider drawing your
pistol:

 --> somebody has the *intent* of killing or severely hurting you
 --> they have the *means* of doing so (a knife, pistol, shotgun,
     their hands, etc.)
 --> they have the immediate *opportunity* to do so

Can you escape without danger?  If so, DO IT!  In some states, this is
required of you.

If there is nothing that you can do to escape without making your
position more desparate, in one smooth motion you draw your pistol,
rack the slide while bringing it up to eye level, and shoot until you
stop the person.  Shoot for the center of the torso.  Do not issue any
warnings; you should not be shooting unless the situation is very
grave, and there is nothing more that you can do for them.

If the first few shots are not having any effect, either you are
missing (very easy to do with a pistol), or they are wearing armor; in
this case, you must shoot for the head or perhaps the pelvis.  Your
intent is *NOT* to kill the person, it is only to stop them.  Do not
try to "shoot for the leg," since you are probably not good enough to
hit a small moving target.  The moment that you stop them, STOP
SHOOTING!  Render your gun safe, holster it, and call the police and
an ambulance.

Of course, you should aways remember that there may be people behind
both you and your target.  You should try very hard to be careful not
to kill a bystander by accident.

Be very careful about what you say to the police without your lawyer,
and see if you can get the name of any witnesses who might have seen
what happened.

Here are some examples of when you should *NOT* draw your pistol:

 -- somebody stole your purse or briefcase

Resist the temptation to shoot them in the back, it's illegal!

 -- somebody is kicking your car in a parking lot

Don't draw and try to "hold them for the police;" just back off and
call the police.

 -- somebody is exposing themselves to you, or playing with themselves

This will not kill you, so don't draw!

 -- a gang of youths are walking towards you

Back off, cross the street, etc.  Don't look scared, since you know
what to do if they force you.

 -- somebody is mugging you

Don't shoot to protect your wallet.  Only shoot to protect yourself.
So, if some heroin addict is demanding your wallet, hand it over.  If
they try to hurt you, however, you must draw and shoot to stop, as
outlined above.

 -- somebody is trying to cut you with a knife from behind a big fence

If they can't reach you, you are not in immediate harm, so DO NOT
SHOOT!  ALL THREE CONDITIONS must be met before you shoot.



As mentioned above, it is very difficult to shoot with a pistol, so
you should take as many lessons as possible.  As always, you should be
*intimately* familiar with the local laws of your state.  If you carry
a pistol, you must be on your best behavior, trying very hard to stay
out of fights and arguments.


V. Defensive Use of Firearms
   E. I want a pistol for defensive use. Which one should I get?

by Seth Adams Eliot, (eliot@cmu.edu)

**** After you've done your reading on the subject, and
you've decided that you want to purchase a handgun your next
step should be to take a Handgun Personal Protection Course.
These are offered by the NRA and by private schools.
Contact the NRA or post a query to rec.guns to find out
about courses in your area. ****

Regarding your purchase, there are many considerations:

-Price:  while some genuine bargains can be found out there,
you more often get what you pay for.  Buying a cheap gun for
personal protection purposes puts you at risk due failure of
the firearm at a critical moment.  Conversely, some
moderately priced models can serve you as well as the most
expensive ones

-Ammunition:  Common sense will tell you that the most
powerful ammunition is most likely to stop an attacker and
is therefore desirable in a self-defense situation.  However
there are two mitigating circumstances.  First, increase in
power is accompanied by increase in size of the cartridge
and therefore for a given size of handgun less rounds of
ammunition will be available in the more powerfull calibers.
Second, the most powerful handgun calibers can be difficult
to control (especially for a beginner), or cause noise and
flash that can stun or disorientate the shooter if he/she
doesn't have proper protection or is an enclosed space -- a
possible situation in a self-defense scenario.

-Size and Weight:  If the gun is not going to be carried,
then the largest gun that the shooter is comfortable with is
recommended.  For a given caliber of ammunition, increase in
gun weight reduces the felt recoil, increase in size (to a
point) often increases grip and operation ergonomics, and
increase in barrel length results in easier aiming and
greater bullet velocities.  If the gun is to be carried,
then advantages of a large heavy gun have to be weighed
against the necessity for comfort.  If your sidearm causes
you discomfort, you probably won't be carrying it for long.

-Type of gun:  There are two types of handguns:
=Revolvers:  have a cylinder that rotates with each shot to
bring a fresh cartridge into play
=Semi-autos:
(Also called just "autos," but not to be confused with "full-
auto."
Also called "pistols" although this term technically applies
to both semi-autos and revolvers.
Also called "auto-loaders")
These contain their cartridges in a "magazine."  with each
shot, a new cartridge is loaded.

These guns will now be discussed in  more detail:

REVOLVERS
The advantage of a revolver is its simplicity.  The
operation and maintenance of a revolver are straight forward
and easy for a beginner to understand.  Unless a specific
demand that can only be met by a semi-auto is necessary,
revolvers are recommended for first time buyers.

Revolvers are available in single action (SA), double action
(DA), and double action only (DAO).  Only the latter two
(DA, DAO) are recommended for self defense.  Definitions of
these terms can be found elsewhere in this FAQ.

For home defense, a four inch barrel length should be
sufficient.  For carry, a two inch (or sometimes 3 inch)
"snubbie" barrel is prescribed.  Full size revolvers can
hold six rounds of ammunition, while many "snubbies" hold
five.

SEMI-AUTOS
The advantages of a semi-auto are it's increased capacity,
rapid reloading, flatter profile, compact shape, and
(sometimes) increased accuracy.

Increased capacity and rapid reloading are due to the
magazine feed mechanism.  For instance up to 15 rounds of
ammunition can be loaded into a compact medium power (9mm
caliber) handgun.  Rapid reloading is possible if a pre-
loaded replacement magazine is available.

The flatter profile of the semi-auto makes it a popular
concealed carry choice.  A powerful handgun can be fitted
into a relatively compact package.

Increased accuracy is possible due to the single action (SA)
trigger pull of many SA and DA semi-autos (definitions of
these terms can be found elsewhere in this FAQ).  Many
people find a single-action trigger to be easier to shoot
with due to it's shorter, lighter pull.

The Specifics of Caliber

Caliber designations refer nominally to the diameter of the
bullet, but not always.  Hence a .45 ACP has a .45 inch
diameter bullet, but a .38 special and a .357 magnum both
utilize bullets .357 inches in diameter.  The terms "ACP",
"special", and "magnum" are manufacturers designations to
distinguish between cartridges with bullets of the same
diameter.
Revolvers generally shoot one kind of ammunition, while auto-
loaders shoot another (with a few exceptions).
The designation "+P" refers to ammunition that while still
is the same caliber as non-"+P" ammunition, has been "beefed
up" in terms of power.  Refer to your handgun owners manual
as to whether it is rated for "+P" ammunition, and NEVER
load anything into your gun except for the ammunition it was
designed to use.

For revolvers

.38 Special is often considered a good compromise between
power and controllability.  It was the carry load of most of
this nations police force for many years.  Fairly compact
"snubbies" are available that shoot this caliber.  +P
ammunition is also available in this caliber, as are many
models that can handle the +P ammunition.

The .357 magnum load is considered and excellent manstopper.
However this load is quite powerful and some beginners may
find it hard to handle, especially out of smaller, lighter
guns.  Revolvers that fire .357 magnum are also capable of
firing the less powerful .38 special load, thus making this
gun a good pick for power and flexibility.  While a .357
magnum revolver is built to be stronger than a .38 special
revolver, this strength comes at the price of size and
weight.

The Carmichel and Quigley books both contain excellent
discussions of caliber choice.

For semi-autos

acceptable self-defense calibers, in ascending order of
power are:
.380 ACP
9mm parabellum
.40 Smith & Wesson
10 mm
.45 ACP

The .380 ACP is definitely at the weak end of this spectrum, and
should be chosen only if small size is a premium, as some
truly compact .380 ACP's exist

The 9mm is the workhorse of many police departments in the
U.S.  It's more powerful than a .38 special and many
handguns shooting this round have truly large capacities,
hence the nickname "wonder nine" for these handguns.

The .40 S&W is gaining popularity as a compromise between
the power of the .45 ACP and the capacity of the 9mm
parabellum.

the 10mm is the current load of the FBI.  A beginner is
probably best served by another caliber.

The .45 ACP is a venerable and well respected load.  It was
the standard handgun load of the U.S. Army until replaced by
the 9mm in the 80's.  Still, the sheer size and power of the
.45 make it an excellent self-defense choice.  The price
paid is in capacity.

Types of ammo:
Very briefly, the most suitable self-defense choice in any
of the above mentioned calibers usually is hollow point
ammunition.  Hollow point ammo contains a cavity in the
front of the bullet that causes the soft lead slug to expand
in fluids or body tissue.  This expansion increases the size
the bullet, and prevents over penetration of the target.
The advantages are more reliable stopping of the attacker,
and diminished danger to bystanders due to over penetration.
Some auto loaders have trouble operating with hollowpoint
ammunition and should NOT be considered as suitable self-
defense weapons.  Other, more exotic, ammunition is
available, and (hopefully) is discussed elsewhere in this
FAQ.

The final choice

The handgun you choose will have to meet a combination of
requirements unique to your situation.  Having an idea of
what's out there will help when you first enter your local
gun shop.  Don't be afraid to ask questions, and if you
don't get the service you want or need, then go somewhere
else.  Check to see if there are any ranges in your area
that rent guns, this is a good way try different designs and
models.  If you have any questions, feel free to send me E-
mail, or post to rec.guns.  Newbie questions to the bboard
always result in numerous helpful and informative replies.


- End of segment two/four of the rec.guns FAQ -




Article: 50539 of rec.guns
From: dputzolu@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (putzolu david)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: rec.guns FAQ 3/4
Date: 21 Oct 1993 09:42:02 -0400
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 1077
Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu
Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu
Message-ID: <2a5543$rej@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

























VI. Hunting Issues
    A. Calibre Issues
       1. Is .223 OK for hunting?


VI. Hunting Issues
    A. Calibre Issues
       2. Is 9mm/7.62*39/.357/.45ACP/etc. good for bears?

by David Putzolu

The short answer: no.
The long answer:
  Look, a bear is big, mean, tough, big, mean, and tough. Some have
likened it's skull to 'armour plate' while others have claimed that
bears are as big (and a whole lot tougher) than a VW bug. Don't
mess with a bear. Period. All a 9mm/7.62*39/.357/.45ACP/etc. will
do is annoy it, at worst. If you are lucky, it will ignore it and
not notice you. Bears can travel at 30mph+, so don't even think about
such fanciful things as, "I'll shoot it in the eye." If you want to
hunt bear, bring a BIG, BIG caliber - try at least .338 Winchester
Magnum, maybe more. Forestry types usually carry at least .357, more
often .44 magnum, and that is only for emergency situations.

If anyone wants to write a real article to replace this, please do.
I simply stuck this in to take care of the biannual bear question
fest.







VII. Reloading
     A. Introduction to Handloading
	1. Pistol and rifle reloading: "My Adventures in Reloading"

By Henry E. Shaffer
  Having become interested in reloading, and over the past year
having started and gained some experience, I thought that I would
share my experiences and ideas with the list.  Perhaps someone
will gain from this, and perhaps someone with more knowledge
will set me straight(er) on something.  I'm going to emphasize
the .38 Special load - as that is the bulk of the handgun
reloading I've been doing.  (I would also like to thank the people
on the net who have shared their ideas with me.  I have incorporated
many of their comments in revising my original story.  I've reloaded
for a number of pistol calibers by buying new dies and using the rest
of what I already had.  Also I've reloaded for the rifle, and have
found that most of the equipment and experience carry over.  The
percentage savings is often greater when reloading for the rifle.)

  Before we get started, it is worth discussing - Why Reload?
Most of the information on reloading shows the savings by
comparing your costs vs. the retail price of a box of name brand
new ammo.  This is ridiculous!  If you have the money to reload,
you have the money to buy a case at a time - and are probably
willing to buy reloads.  One reference I have compares the price
of home reloads (for .357 Magnum) vs. a retail price of over
$20/box.  The last case of .38 Special wadcutter reloads I
purchased (i.e., 1,000 rounds) cost me $75 plus trading in 1,000
empties.  So my bought ammo cost me $3.75/box net of brass.  I
buy cast lead bullets, and then can reload a box for $2.75-$3.00
in supplies.  (The price of both bought ammo and supplies has
gone up since then, but the relationship between the two still is
roughly the same.)  There is not enough margin there to pay for
my equipment and time.  Casting lead bullets can save more money,
especially if you can scrounge wheel weights or other sources of
lead - but it takes even more time and equipment so I'm going to
ignore this aspect of reloading.  The economics of reloading
improve somewhat if you reload more than one caliber, and
especially for rifle reloading.  The savings can be great when you
want match grade rifle ammo which is not hard to do by handloading,
but which is quite expensive to buy.  Also, each person has to decide
how hard they are willing to work to save what amount of money.  For
many people, even a small savings is worth the effort to reload, and
if they are shooting a less popular caliber than the .38 Special or a
more specialized round (such as high performance hollow points) the
cost advantage of reloading will be further increased because of the
higher price or unavailability of commercial reloads.

  However, not everything I want to shoot is available, and
even if it was, I may not want to buy in case quantities.
(If you shoot a caliber for which reloads aren't available
then you must compare with new prices - in case lots.)  In
particular, I went looking for suitable ammunition to use
in a speedloader, because I wanted to practice for IPSC
competition.  (Why anyone would want to shoot IPSC with a
.38 Special revolver is a topic I'll leave for a later day!)
I couldn't find lead round nose (LRN) .38 Special ammo
anywhere in town.  There wasn't any jacketed round nose
available either - semiwadcutter was available, but it
doesn't slip into the cylinder as nicely.  I could have
ordered RN quite easily, but then I would be paying
considerably more than I cared to pay - that would be up in
the $15 - $25/box range.  But even if I ordered that, I would
have to take what is manufactured, and I also was wondering
about somewhat heavier bullets (say in the 160-180 gr range)
which can be hand loaded but are essentially unavailable in
factory ammo.  Also the thought of experimenting with
different loads for accuracy and to fit my style and preferences
was appealing.  (Silhouette shooters also often want heavier
bullets than are generally available in factory ammo.)

  All together, there was enough to get me to want to try -
especially if it wasn't too expensive to fiddle around a
bit.  (That's where the Lee Reloader press offer attracted
me - but that's getting ahead of the story.)  So given that
you want to try - here's what I recommend.

  First - read up on reloading.  The Hornady Reloading Manual
set (2 volumes) 4th ed. is an excellent reference for a
beginner since it has such good illustrations and a glossary.
Lyman's Reloading Handbook 46th or 47th ed. is another good first
reference.  It contains history, theory, how-to-do-it, and a large
reference section giving suggested loads and data on quite an array
of rifle and handgun calibers (with outline drawings and dimensions of
cartridges.)  It is not very expensive, and it is a useful reference
even if you are not going to reload.  The Sierra reloading handbooks
are excellent, but more advanced.  Most of the powder companies give
free small handbooks which mostly have loading data - fine - but not
much discussion and so not very good for beginners.  The Speer manual
is also on a somewhat advanced advanced level.  The Nosler is oriented
towards hunting.

  There also are books which have much more discussion, lots of
photos, etc.  I particularly enjoyed The ABC's of Reloading by
Dean Grennell, 4th ed. (DBI Books).  Reading that would be worthwhile,
and I strongly recommend it for a beginner.  I especially like the
author's emphasis on safety and practicality.  (The 5th ed. is now
out.  I haven't seen it yet.)

  SAFETY NOTE - This can't be over emphasized!  Be careful, and set
up everything, including your routines, so that the chances of an
accident are minimized.  Wear safety glasses, don't have distractions
such as a TV around, don't eat or smoke when reloading, don't reload
when affected by alcohol, drugs or when over-tired, wash your hands
after working at reloading, ...

  It wouldn't hurt to find a local gunshop which carries reloading
equipment and supplies, and spend a little time looking around,
seeing what they carry, and perhaps go ahead and buy some books
and manuals.  See if you can identify someone there who is
technically knowledgeable, and maybe even buy some supplies at
this time.  I like to buy from local stores, but I also like to
pay low prices, and these two may conflict.  Still, you can buy
many of the items locally and so support your local people, and
also have a local source of expertise.  This is likely to save you
money, time and effort in the long run.  But note that there are
substantial savings available through mail order.  (At the very
least, get catalogs from: Gander Mountain, Midway, Wiley Outdoor,
Mid-South Shooters Supply, and Natchez (listed in no particular order).
Also get catalogs from the major manufacturers of reloading equipment,
and pay the $1 - $2 charge if they have one.  Certainly include
Hornady, Lee, Lyman, Omark/RCBS and Dillon.)  (Sometimes Midway sells
a package of assorted catalogs which is an easy way of getting a bunch.
If you need addresses, look at the ads in any technically oriented
firearms magazine, such as Handloader, or in the addresses section of
Gun Digest or Shooters Bible which are two valuable firearms reference
annuals.)  The individual manufacturers' catalogs are more likely to
give detailed information, pictures of equipment and supplies, and so
help you in ordering material about which you aren't expert.

  OK, now that you feel comfortable with what is involved, and
are confident that you want to get started - let's go.

  Buy a reloading press and a set of dies.  I strongly
suggest starting with one caliber preferably a straight
sided pistol caliber (such as the .38 Special :-) so that
you can get a carbide resizing die and skip the case lube
and clean-off-lube steps.  (These steps are really not so
much effort and the .38 Special has other disadvantages
discussed below.  Basically, you'll want to start with
whatever it is that you shoot.)  I strongly suggest a simple,
single-die-at-a-time (single stage) press.  It is cheap, it lets
you do everything (just not as fast) and right now you
are trying to learn everything about reloading, rather
than to turn out bulk ammo.  The simple press lets you
concentrate on technique and the meaning of what you are
doing, rather than on complicated machinery.  I even
suggest that you get a separate priming thing (tool), rather
than priming with the press - to further uncomplicate things.
(I keep talking with beginners who are attracted to the
progressive presses because of the allure of turning out large
volumes of ammo quickly.  I try hard to discourage them from
starting that way.  Mainly because I want them to learn how
to do it well and safely.  Also because of the possible
discouragement factors of price and complication - they might
never get started if they have to buy this relatively expensive
thing.  Even if they spend the money then they have to get it
working just right - before they have experience - and so might
get discouraged before everything gets going satisfactorily.  On
the other hand maybe they might get bored working more slowly.)

  I've talked with many reloaders who have started with a
progressive press and who are very satisfied.  One common element
is that they all did it slowly and carefully at first.  They read
up on what they needed to do, and they carefully ran cases through
until they understood what was going on and how to reload safely.
A progressive press can also have some benefits, such as it being
much harder to double charge a case because a case will only stay in
the charging station for one handle cycle.  So I'm not saying that it
is wrong to start this way, just that it is simpler and less expensive
to start with a single stage press.

  The simple presses (called single stage presses) come in
two varieties - hand held and bench mount.  The hand held type
is the ultimate in small, portable and easily stored, but it
is less convenient to use.  The bench mounted type is much
easier and faster to use, since it is mounted to the bench and has
more leverage and can be operated with one hand, with the other
one free to move components, etc.  You can actually bolt it to
a reloading bench, if you have a dedicated area.  But it works
just as well and is more convenient, to bolt it to a piece of
wood, and then clamp the wood to your workbench with C-clamps
when you want to use it.  I used a piece of hardwood 1 x 4 long
enough to have the press just in front of my bench, and the end
of the board goes to the back edge of the bench.  I use one clamp
at the rear, and one at the front edge.  It takes me less than a
minute to mount or remove and it is very solid during operation.
Some people use a shorter wider board and which doesn't go far back,
and they C-clamp it on both sides of the press.  I can do everything,
including full length resizing of .30-'06 cases with it.  So far I've
been able to reload 5 handgun calibers and 3 rifle calibers with this
equipment (with additional die sets), so I don't feel limited by this
simple setup.

  (It has been pointed out to me that the .38 Special case
is very large compared to the typical amount of powder loaded
- and this makes it dangerous compared to the usual rifle case
in which a normal load fills it up or nearly so.  With the .38
Special it is possible to double charge or worse - which may
lead to blowing up the gun and serious injury.  Therefore it
is *very* important to be careful when reloading.  I did
start with the .38 Special so that is what I'm discussing.)

  (There are also dangers in reloading for the rifle.  The
length of the cartridge and the neck thickness take on more
importance, and inattention can lead to over-pressure
conditions.  There is no simple way to be safe.  You have
to learn about what you are doing, and then pay attention
all of the time.)

  I bought the Lee Reloader Press, in a bundled deal which made
it very inexpensive when also buying a set of dies - I got the
carbide dies - and a priming tool - I got the Auto-Prime with a
shell holder.  Since the die set includes a powder scoop and a
shell holder, it is possible to get started with nothing but this
purchase!   (Well, I also bought a small powder funnel, a reloading
tray, and a primer pocket cleaner.  Also one needs supplies -
further discussed below.)  There are many presses which can be
bought in some kind of bundled deal or "kit" with a set of dies,
etc.  Sometimes this is a very good buy, so look over prices and
equipment carefully.  Note that a vibrator/tumbler for cleaning
cases is not an essential item, although it is nice, and you will
probably buy (or make) one if you continue in reloading.  (Also there
are many very high quality brands of equipment, and I don't feel that
Lee is any better than the others.  It may even not be as good, but it
was the best buy I could find, and it has worked very well.)

  A neat trick when using a vibrator/tumbler is to put in a paper
towel, torn into quarters, with each load of brass.  This picks up
the black junk cleaned off the cases and keeps the whole process and
your hands a lot cleaner and less messy.  Don't worry about this until
you get a vibrator/tumbler - but be sure to try it then.

The steps in reloading are (briefly):  (Note this is with a carbide
resizing die which doesn't need case lubricant and with a res the case mouth and which also allows dumping powder
through it.)  Also this is with the use of a powder scoop which means
that the purchase of a mechanical "powder measure" isn't required.
Lee includes a scoop in their die sets and also sells an inexpensive
set of scoops.  I wear eye protection for the entire process and also
keep the case pointing away from my head when I'm priming it.

 1. Wipe off the old cases with a rag.  (Not necessary if you've
      cleaned them some other way.)
 2. Resize/deprime.  (first die)
 2a.(optional, but recommended) Clean out primer pocket with a
      cleaner brush or scraper.
 3. Prime with the Auto-Prime.
 4. Expand/flare with second die, and also
 5. Dump in scoop of powder through this die.  (The scoop is
     on the conservative side regarding the charge, and so a
     scale/balance to weigh the charge is not necessary.)
 6. Place bullet on top of case and seat and crimp (third die.)
 7. Voila!

  Since this is a single die press, all the cases have to be run
first through the first die, then the second step is done, etc.
This is one reason why reloading trays/blocks (or pieces of wood with
a bunch of holes drilled in them) are so nice.  You have to change
dies, and do a little readjustment at each change - but so what -
you are getting great experience and practice each time you do that!
There are some tricks which minimize the work of adjusting dies -
I've included some discussion as a postscript on this essay.
(Also, even if you later buy a fancier press, there are lots of
things which a single stage press can be used for - such as
bullet sizing/lubricating, depriming and bullet extraction.  So
it won't be wasted later on.)  Depending on the die set there
may be a slightly different sequence of steps, but the same
operations will still be done.  The Lee Speed Die Set costs only
about 60% of the usual 3-die carbide set, and actually is
slightly easier/faster to use in a single station press.  There
is one body part, and then the other attachments just are put
on and off with relatively little adjustment.  However it can't
be used conveniently in a multi-station press (turret or progressive)
because there is only one body.  Still, it might be worth starting
with this, for a handgun, to minimize the initial cost and fuss.

  I very strongly urge using two loading trays, and keeping them on
opposite sides of the press.  Then you can transfer each round
systematically as you work on it.  This helps assure that you
don't skip any and don't double charge any.  Without this help
you are very likely to lose track, especially if ever interrupted,
and to end up making a dangerous mistake.

  Now, what supplies should one purchase?  Keep it simple!  Don't
buy anything exotic - and keep away from peoples' favorite oddball
loads!  (I.e., shotgun powder in pistol, weird weights or two bullets
in one case, etc.)  Not that there is anything wrong with these
"favorites" but when you are gaining experience you should keep in
the mainstream.  Your load should be chosen from a manual (*not*
from someone's memory!) and preferably should be checked with
another manual or two and be in the moderate power range.  In
understanding what is "mainstream", a knowledgeable person at the
gunshop can be a big help.  Buy one box of brass (whatever they
carry new is fine) preferably unprimed, a single box of primers
(the smallest box which usually is 100 primers) and a box of
bullets (100 to a box) and *one pound* of powder.  (I don't care how
much you might save by buying an 8 pound keg - just buy one pound.)

  Why new brass? - so you have one thing less to worry about.
Unprimed so you get the experience of priming.  One box of bullets
- you're just getting started and gaining experience, not trying to
save money by buying in bulk.  One pound of powder because it is
*safer*.  (Think safe and play safe - don't do anything to cut
corners on safety - don't smoke around the reloading bench ...)
With new brass, a chamfering tool (handheld - try not to pay over
$5) is not a bad idea, but is not necessary.  (Although if the
curved cuts on your fingertips bother you, you will prefer to
lightly chamfer your new cases inside and outside.)

  I got a box of Winchester brass, a box of CCI 500 (standard small
pistol) primers, a box of Hornady 158 gr. LRN bullets, and a pound of
Bullseye.  I fiddled with the equipment, fussed around and loaded up
a whole box (50) of ammo.  Went out to the range and every round went
bang - very satisfactory.  But the loads felt kind of light, sort of
closer to target wadcutter loads than to factory loads.  Reloading
and shooting the same cases confirmed the feeling.  (I should note
that the scoop which came with the dies was too large for Bullseye -
so I bought the inexpensive set of Lee Powder scoops and used a smaller
one.)  What to do to increase the power?  Well, I was an expert by now
:-), and looking for new horizons to conquer.  The clear next step was
to be able to handle heavier loads - that meant an adjustable powder
measure and then a balance to be able to check for accuracy and
consistency.

  (It has been pointed out to me that Bullseye is one of the
most "energetic" powders used.  I.e., it takes the smallest
volume to get a given amount of energy.  That means that a
very small amount is used, and so it will be harder to
notice a double charge if you slip up and do that.  Even if
you peer at the cases in the loading tray from the top after
charging with powder it is not easy to see the small amount
extra of this powder.  However Bullseye is very popular, and
this is what I have been using.  It does make it even more
important to be very systematic and avoid overcharging any
of the rounds.  With a loading tray, the brass is held upright
and lined up - this makes it much easier to look in and make
sure that powder is in every case and gives you the best chance
of seeing a double charge, if one is present.)

  It is also important to make sure that every case is charged
with powder.  The energy in the primer alone is enough to drive
the bullet into the barrel, but not enough to have it surely leave
the barrel.  (This is referred to as a "squib load".) If you fire
one of these and don't notice the lighter than usual recoil and
report, and then fire a fully loaded round - the second bullet
will violently encounter the first one, and the result can be a
bulged barrel or worse.  Sometimes much worse, with injury as
well as equipment damage resulting.)  However, with the primed brass
in the loading tray after powder charging, when looking in from the
top it is *very* easy to see an uncharged case because of the glint
from the primer reflecting from an overhead light.

  Since I only used Bullseye at the start I didn't have to worry
about the possibility of mixing powders or of confusing powders.
Such errors can easily lead to disaster.  With more than one
powder around, one should be very careful to avoid these
errors.  Now that I use several different powders, I take such
simple precautions as only taking out one container at a time.

  A less obvious danger, but one which is easy to avoid, is lead
poisoning.  No kidding, the amount of lead you get on your hands
when working with lead bullets and with fired casings is dangerous
if it gets into your body.  Don't touch food or smoke until you have
scrubbed your hands clean!  Assume that all of your reloading gear
has lead on it, and then you'll be extra careful.

  Lead poisoning is slow and insidious.  The danger of working
with primers is more dramatic and sudden.  Primers can detonate
when crushed, and so it is important to avoid this, particularly
when priming cases.  If a primer is going in "hard", stop and
check - don't just push harder.  Keep primers in their original
boxes until use - these boxes are designed to protect the primers
from impact.  Don't keep primers in a glass jar - an explosion
would produce particularly unpleasant effects.  Most of the
reloading guides discuss the need to keep primers clean and dry,
and particularly to avoid getting oil on them - all of this is to
ensure that they go off when needed.  The safety issue is to make
sure that they don't go off any other time, and to limit the
dangerous effects if a primer does go off inadvertently.  So, for
example when using the Auto-Prime I only put in 1/2 box (50 primers)
at one time to limit the extent of any possible detonation, I tilt
the tool so that the case tilts away from my face when I'm squeezing
in the primer, and I wear a face shield (an ordinary full-face shop
protector.  Hearing protection would probably be in order, as well.

  I got the Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure (the Deluxe model,
I was on a roll) and a Hornady balance (hm, I bought mail order,
but asked the order taker if I could talk to someone who knew
a lot about reloading, and I asked that person about quality
of different brands of balances - and gotsteered to the
Hornady vs. the Lee.  I've been very happy with it.  Whatever
brand you buy, make sure that you get one with magnetic damping.
This is an important feature which makes the balance much easier
to use because it makes it settle to a stop much faster without
harming accuracy.)  A set of balance check weights is be a good
idea, or at least someknown weight objects (such as a small
jacketed bullet) to check for gross problems in operation of the
balance.  The Disk Powder measure screws into the Lee die in
place of the funnel, and is actuated by the press when expanding
the case.  Works like a charm, and for a while I also weighed
every charge.  I always weigh the first few charges. I used to weigh
every tenth charge - now I weigh every twenty-fifth charge - I've
never found one as much as 0.1 gr off the usual.  (The charge runs
consistently 0.05 gr less than the chart says it should be - but it
is very consistent.)  However there can be changes in lots of powder
or in conditions so that there is a different density and therefore
there will be a different weight for the same powder measure setting.
This is one of the important reasons to use a balance to check.  Now
my loads run as hot as factory ammo, which is where I want them.
There are digital electronic scales which are much faster and easier
to use, but they are considerably more expensive than the traditional
beam balance.  Most people don't weigh stuff enough to make it
important to have the extra speed and a beginner certainly can save
the money.

  One more tool is very handy - a dial micrometer caliper - to check
the overall lengths (OAL) of stuff, and see if and when cases
need to be trimmed, and lots of other uses.  I use my stainless
steel machinist's caliper, but an inexpensive plastic one would
work well enough.  A vernier caliper could be bought for a few
dollars, but is a pain to use compared to a dial caliper.  A
reasonable stainless steel dial caliper will last for many
decades, and have many uses, and so should be considered to be an
investment, and prices of these are quite reasonable.  Since I'm
firing mild loads, I've not yet had to do any case trimming.  One
reason why checking length is important is that the crimping die's
action will vary if case length varies.  Variable crimping hurts
accuracy, and excessive crimping can lead to over- pressure
conditions.  (Note that a roll crimp is fine for revolvers and single
shot pistols.  Semi-automatics commonly head space on the mouth of
the case, and so can't work with a rolled-in crimp.  A taper crimp is
used in those cases, and taper crimp dies are available from many die
manufacturers.)

  Another neat gadget is a loaded cartridge check gauge (available
for such sources as Wilson, Midway, Dillon, etc.)  This is usually a
steel cylinder (perhaps the size of a 35 mm film can for the handgun
cartridge sizes) with a hole bored in the center, with it sized just
so that a properly sized cartridge will be able to fit in, and not
poke through the far end.  So it checks all the critical dimensions of
the cartridge just by putting in a cartridge.  This is not a necessary
gadget, but it can be very helpful, especially when you are first
getting started.

  I couldn't stop there - since I was reloading them over and
over, the cases were getting just a bit sooty and tarnished,
and cleaning them with a rag wasn't enough - so I needed a
tumbler/cleaner.  It makes the cases so nice and bright! I also
bought some more cases, primers and bullets (in quantity this
time, and got a reasonably nice price break.  Price breaks
usually start when you reach quantities of 500 or 1000.)  It
took quite a while to finish my first pound of Bullseye, but I
did that and have gone through a lot more powder since then.
What I'm doing has added up to a bit more money by now than my
start-up costs - but I didn't spend the extra until I was sure
that I wanted to go on to do the extra stuff in reloading.

  It has turned out to be a nice way to spend an occasional
evening.  It hasn't been too expensive, and I've had no problems.
Note that I've been *very* careful - check everything twice.  I'm
never in a rush to get out more rounds, but rather very systematic
and if in doubt I do it again. (Really the only very dangerous
part in handgun reloading is double charging a case.  It is hard to
spot by the usual recommended technique of shining a light down the
cases and looking at the powder levels.  So I do that anyway, but
first I am very careful to move cases from the uncharged tray to the
charged tray as I charge them, and to only work the lever once, ...
Also, I turn over each case before charging it - so I check the
primer and also verify that it is empty.

  All in all, it has been fun - I've learned a lot about the
technology, and I can make loads of the sort I want.  I still
shoot more bought ammo than I reload - but I went into this for
fun, not to replace the store.  But even this way, if I had bought
all the ammo that I've loaded, it would have cost much more than
I've paid for all the supplies and equipment I've bought.  So I
can argue that it also has saved me money compared to what I would
have had to spend to get this type of ammo.  For rifle shooting
I've worked out loads which have given me match accuracy ( < 1 MOA!)
and not only has it been much less expensive than factory match ammo,
it has been *very* satisfying.

  Where next?  If I buy another press, I think I want one with a
turret disk so I can leave all my dies mounted and not have to do
any readjustment.  I don't think I want a progressive press,
because there is more which can go wrong.  I could change my mind
if I ever wanted to reload larger quantities, but my interest is
still going in different directions.  I'm still interested in
accuracy, and possibly also in heavier bullets.  If I experiment in
these areas, I still will load relatively small quantities.  I've
bought a few other inexpensive tools, a case trimmer, a few brushes,
reloading trays and storage boxes, some more manuals, ... .  I've
tried some other powders, - lots of interesting projects under way.
(Safety note - to avoid the danger of mixing (or mixing up) powders,
only take out one container at a time.  Then it is clear what powder
you are using and you won't ever return powder to the wrong can.)

  I bought dies and supplies to load ammo for my rifle (.308 Win.
bolt action) which has turned out to be a worthwhile effort.  Other
than the set of dies, the only other equipment needed was a new guide
for the case trimmer.  (It was good to get to use it - the .38 Spl
cases don't seem to ever need trimming.  I have a group of cases I've
reloaded 36 times and they are still too short to touch the trimmer
cutter.  Also note how the cost of the brass per shot goes down very
fast when it can be reloaded many times.)  I use the very inexpensive
Lee Case trimmer which you rotate with your hands.  It is reasonably
fast and works very well, but is tiring to use if a lot of trimming is
necessary.

  My first rifle die set was the Lee Collet Die set - this is one of
the types of dies sets which does neck sizing - rather than full length
resizing.  Neck sizing is easier to do because it takes less force
on the die and it doesn't need any case lubrication.  It is easier on
the brass.  There is much argument over whether it provides superior
accuracy versus full-length resizing.  Some people say it is more
accurate because it doesn't affect the body of the cartridge which has
taken on the shape (and headspace) of the particular rifle in which it
has been fired.  But this can work only if the cartridges are being
reloaded for the same bolt action rifle in which they were fired.  Neck
sizing is not recommended for semi-automatics because they need a bit
more clearance between the cartridge and chamber walls to function
easily.  The question of which provides superior accuracy probably is
not important until you get to very elevated standards of performance,
and then you'll be able to decide for yourself.  It appears that the
best high-power shooters use full-length resizing, while the best
benchrest shooters neck size.  I've been very happy with neck-sizing,
but haven't run any careful experiments comparing it to full-length
resizing.

  I picked a powder which was recommended by a knowledgeable
salesman at a local shop (IMR 4895) and the bullet he recommended
(Sierra 168 grain HPBT Matchking) and tried a few charge weights.  I
used once fired Federal brass from the American Eagle ammo I had fired,
and CCI Standard Large Rifle primers.  With the original ammo, I was
getting about 3" groups (100 yards, sandbag on bench.)  My first (light)
reload gave me 2" groups.  A one grain increase in the charge reduced
the groups to under 1", and one more grain gave me a 6 shot group
of 0.7".  (One grain can make a big difference in accuracy!)  My best
5 shot group is now 0.4", and I consistently average well under 1".
Note the change from mediocre groups to excellent groups - that
alone made the whole reloading exercise worth it for me.  Also, this
is where there are reasonably big savings from reloading.  I don't
shoot the rifle enough to want to buy match grade ammo by the case,
so the savings per round are reasonably large, and there was very
little additional investment in equipment needed.  I also have done
some reloading for the .222 Remington.  Again, only an additional
die set and a cutter guide was needed.  (Oh well, I might as well
admit that there are always a few extra gadgets which do something
nice or necessary.  Things like extra primer pocket cleaners or
reamers, various brushes, etc.  But they aren't big items, and you
don't really need to buy them, especially not at first.)  I guess
I shouldn't mention the match grade powder measure that I just got -
but I'm sure that I can always find new things worth buying!

  OK - that's my story.  It would be nice to hear about others'
ideas and experiences.  (It was help from others which got me
going and helped me continue - so let's all keep this hobby going.)

--henry schaffer


VII. Reloading
     A. Introduction to Handloading
	2. Shotgun Handloading

By Scot E. Heath


VII. Reloading Issues
     B. Progressive vs. Standard Reloaders
	1. Accuracy Issues


VII. Reloading Issues
     B. Progressive vs. Standard Reloaders
	2. Price / Expandability


VII. Reloading Issues
     B. Progressive vs. Standard Reloaders
	3. Rate of Production


VII. Reloading Information
     C. Manufacturer Information - Bullets


VII. Reloading Information
     D. Manufacturer Information - Powders


VII. Reloading Information
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
        1. Dillon


VII. Reloading Information
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
        2. Hornady (Pacific)


VII. Reloading Information
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
	3. Lee


VII. Reloading Information
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
	4. Lyman


VII. Reloading Information
     E. Pistol/Rifle Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
	5. RCBS


VII. Reloading Information
     F. Shotgun Reloading Equipment Manufacturer Information
        1. Hornady, MEC, and Posness Warren

By Scot Heath.

I reload alot of shells, about 20,000 - 30,000 / year.  As far as equipment
goes, I recommend buying the fastest and most reliable you can afford.

There are three main shot shell reloading equipment manufacturers in the
USA.  They are: MEC, Hornady, and Posness-Warren.  These are listed in
ascending order of cost and quality.

MEC makes the most complete line of loaders.  Posness is high end only and
Hornady currently lists only 2 models, the DL-366 and the APEX-91.

I have loaded with a DL-366, and APEX-91 automatic, and a MEC-650.  I really 
like the DL-366 and the APEX, I dislike the MEC but I only used it for 28 ga. 
and the volumes were low.

The Posness loaders start in price around $300.00 and go to > $800.00.
There is no doubt that they are the finest loaders made but I have adjusted
them for some of my mechanically challenged friends and the Hornady's are alot
more user friendly.

The MEC loaders are all stamped sheet metal and in my opinion are not
constructed with as much integrity as the Hornady or the Posness.  They do
offer a wide selection (~$80.00 to $400.00).  My particular dislike with the
650 ($150.00) I have is that the shot drop tube is poorly designed and the
shot will wedge in the tube at a diameter reduction area.  The 12 gauge
loaders will not have this problem.  The physical force require to load with
the 650 is approximately 3X as high as the Hornady.

Ask yourself this when selecting that loader: Including purchasing 500 once
fired hulls at $.04 each, loading 3000 shells will cost around $400.00.  In
only 5 years, the cost of a good loader compared to a cheap loader will be
completely masked by the cost of the components.  Do I want to put up with
a cheap loader? 

The quality of the shells produced is not an issue.  All the loaders will
do approximately the same job.  I have loaded many, many rounds with an old
DL-105 that I bought used for $35.00 and you couldn't tell a shell loaded
with that loader from one loaded with the DL-366.

Since I got the APEX-91, I have relagated the 366 to 28 ga.  I have loaded
about 4500 shells so far on the APEX and I am very impressed:  

  The handle force is extremely low.
  It was very easy to set up.
  It holds enough shot and powder to do 250 shells.
  It allows the user to remove shells at any station and automatically
    drops primers/shot/powder only when necessary.
  I had a missdrilled powder bushing carrier when I got the loader and one
    phone call to Hornady had a new one at my door in 3 days.

I whole heartedly recommend the APEX-91.


VII. Reloading Information
     G. Custom Loads
        1. Legal Disclaimer


VII. Reloading Information
     G. Custom Loads
	2. Pistol


VII. Reloading Information
     G. Custom Loads
	3. Rifle


VII. Reloading Information
     G. Custom Loads
	4. Shotgun

VII. Reloading Information
     H. Miscellaneous
        1. "A Report on the Dedicated Systems Electronic Scale and
            and Powder Dribbler System"                  

by Chris Luchini

Dedicated systems can be reached at 1-800-729-2808.
The cost for the combined system is $225, while just the scale
goes for about $160. They have a 30 day 'no questions asked'
money back policy. 

-------------

The scale comes with a 500 grain check weight, has a 1500 grain
upper limit, two powder pans, a 'training cup', and can be 
battery operated. It has a LCD read out to
.01 grains, and includes a number of interesting software options.

We investigated the precession of the scale by repeatedly weighing
a set of RCBS check weights, and recording the results.
We weighed one 200 grain , two 100 grain, one 50 grain, one
5 grain, one 1 grain and one .5 grain check weight. Each one was weighed
5 times.

The deviations from the mean for each weight was entered into a
histogram, and the RMS deviation was calculated. (we do this because
we have no way of knowing that the check weights are in fact the
nominal claimed values)

The RMS deviation over all measurements was .043 grains. If the trials
with the .5 grain check weight were eliminated, the RMS deviation was
.038 grains. The trials with the .5 grain check weight showed large
variations. The documentation warns that the software in the scale
will probably not weight items below .2 grain with any degree of
accuracy. From these measurements we made, we suggest that weights
below 1 grain are probably suspect, in the default software mode. The
software has something called 'tracker' mode which tries to 
compensate for thermal variations by recalibrating the scale's  zero
every time you remove the weight from the pan, and also tracks the
variation of the weight (due to thermal noise, air movement, or
whatever). There are software switches that allow only zero tracking,
or no tracking at all. With the default tracker mode, if you manually
dribble small amounts of powder, each grain of powder falling will/may
be interprited as thermal noise, and the weight will be recalibrated
to ignore the added weight of the powder as it is added. We believe
that this tacker mode is responsible for the larger than expected
variations of the 1/2 grain weight test.

The scale was also tested for off-of-center weight measurement
variations. We found a ~+-.5 grain extreme variation in a 1500 grain weight
from one side to the other of the scale pan. The scale was found to be 
very off balance, about 1 bubble on a small carpenters level. 
When we leveled the scale to ~1/5 bubble, the weight variations 
across the scale were reduced to about ~+-.1 grain. 

The powder dribbler hooks via a ribbon cable into the back of the
scale. It has a hopper that has about a 1 # capacity for 4198. The
scale must be trained to operate each type of powder, this takes about
5 min, and about 1/4-1/2 # of powder. Up to 9 types of powder training
parameters can be stored in the scale. We tested Red Dot and IMR 4198.
Both powders were dribbled to within .05 grain accuracy. Charge
weights of 80 grains of 4198 took about 15-18 seconds to dribble,
while 3 grains of Red Dot took under 10 seconds. The scale will
indicate a error condition if the dribbled weight is more than .1
grain out of tolerance.

The scale also has the feature that you can define a  'nominal'
weight, and high and low limits on that nominal weight, so that
you can sort bullets by weight class, or check for over/under
powder charge on loaded ammunition. There is no provision for
parts counting. 

In summary, our recommendation on this scale is "Buy it". With the
powder dribbler it is cheaper than dealer price on a RCBS electronic
scale, and offers all of the features that one could reasonably
want, and then some.

[Maintainer: I was a bit confused about whether the 'software'
 mentioned was internal to the scale or was something that ran on
 a PC & contacted Chris. Apparently the software is all internal
 to the scale, but there is a unexplained port on the back of
 scale which has no known use (maybe downloading new SW?)]


VII. Reloading Information 
     H. Miscellaneous
	2. "Some words on adjusting dies"

                      Henry E. Shaffer
                 Some words on adjusting dies.

  Your die set may or may not have good instructions on
adjusting the dies.  Some dies can be adjusted once and then be
removed and replaced many times without losing the adjustment.  How
this is done depends on the type of lock ring which locks the die
into place.  Some of the lock rings have a lockscrew which locks the
ring into the desired place on the die body - therefore once the die
is set properly and the ring locked into place the die can be repeatedly
removed and replaced to exactly the desired position.

  I'll discuss some methods of adjusting these dies - your dies may
or may not differ somewhat from the types I've used, so adapt my
discussion to your situation.

  For the resizing die this usually makes little difference, since
for straight wall cases it is normally screwed in to barely touch the
shell-holder.  This is so fast and easy that having a locked in place
lock ring gives little benefit.  For bottleneck cases (the usual rifle
type) this adjustment may move the shoulder back too much, which creates
too much headspace which can severely decrease case life.  There are a
number of methods to judge the headspace on your own rifle and to set
the resizing die so as to produce the correct size - which usually
involves moving the shoulder back just a small amount (perhaps as
little as 0.001".)  The RCBS Precision Mic can be a big help in
checking this. Smoking the shoulder and moving the die down to
rub off the soot is another way of doing this.  For straight wall
cases (the usual handgun type) there is no comparable problem.

  Dies such as the Lee case-mouth-flare (plus powder-through) are
fussy to adjust - since you really have to use trial and
error on a case to get the flare just right.  A lock ring therefore
can be a very big timesaver, *if* the cases you use are always close
to the same length.  Hornady makes a nice lock ring which doesn't
hurt the threads on the die body.  However it costs a couple of bucks.

  The Lee lock rings don't have any way to keep them from turning
on the die body, and therefore don't seem to preserve the adjustment.
However there is a trick which seems to work just about as well as
replacing the Lee lock ring with a Hornady (or other set-screw
incorporating lock ring.)  Turn the die body to the correct position,
then hold it still and tighten the lock ring.  When the die is to be
removed, turn the lock ring (only the lock ring - don't touch the die
body) counterclockwise for 1/2 turn or a bit more.  It will carry the
die body with it.  Then hold the die body and unscrew it.  (Note that
the lock ring will not turn at all relative to the die body.)  When it
is out the lock ring will be at exactly the same position as when the
die was inserted the the correct position and locked in place.  To return
to that, screw in the die, holding only the die body, until the rubber
O-ring on the bottom of the lock ring touches the top of the press
(you'll feel the drag.)  Then hold the lock ring only and screw it
further clockwise until tight - and you'll be back in the same place.
It takes much longer to describe than to do

  For the die which seats bullets and crimps, the Lee lock ring works
very well because sometimes you want to return to the same setting,
but sometimes you may have to set up for a new case length, bullet
shape, or OAL (cartridge OverAll Length.)  Here's a method to set up
this die which is *much* better than iterative adjust/measure
trial-and-error.  Take a case and put in a bullet and push it in to
the desired OAL - with no crimp.  (It may be easiest to use the
seating die with the die body not screwed all the way into the press
so there is no crimp and then screw in the seater further than
normal so that it bears on the bullet end.  If you start by seating
it too long, measure it and after you measure the turn-per-inch of the
thread on the seating die determine how many turns will push the bullet
down to the correct place.)  Now back out the seater so that it isn't
even close to seating the bullet in the correct place and screw down
the die body to touch this case with the bullet and then move it down
further and further to the point that you have enough crimp.  Then,
with the case fully into the die, screw in the seater until it touches
the bullet.  That's it.  Now tighten the lock ring and go ahead.  It
is really nice to have a caliper micrometer to measure the OAL, but a
"max cartridge gauge" will do enough to assure you of safety.



























VIII. Techniques
      A. Pistol Techniques
	 1. Carry Techniques

VIII. Techniques
      A. Pistol Techniques
	 2. Cleaning
	    a. Semi-automatics
	   
0) MAKE SURE THE GUN IS NOT LOADED!

1) Disassemble the gun

2) Drip some bore solvent into the barrel and swish it around

3) Wet a phosphor bronze bore brush with bore solvent 

4) Brush out the bore with 20 strokes of the brush, make sure to push
   the brush all the way out of the bore before reversing direction,
   and make sure the cleaning rod doesn't touch the bore.

5) Wet a patch with bore solvent and using a jag force the patch through
   the bore from the breech end, if possible (should come out cruddy)

6) Turn the patch over (clean side to the bore) and force it through
   again

7) Stack 2 patches, wet them with solvent and force both patches through the
   bore (this should be a very tight fit)

8) Keep flipping the patches around so that a clean side is touching the 
   bore (sould be able to use a pair of patches 4 times)

9) Keep doing steps 7 & 8 until the patches come out clean.  When the patches
   do come out clean, set the barrel aside.

10) Pick your cleanest patches from the pile that have gone through the
    barrel, wet one with solvent and wipe out the entire internal area of the
    frame and slide. (this is easier with the grips removed, well you
    can't remove them from a Glock)

11) Get an old toothbrush, put some solvent on it and scub out the area
    that were hard to get to with the patch (be sure to get the area
    under the extractor)

12) Using a patch wet with solvent, wipe down the recoil spring and guide
    rod. 

13) Standing in a well ventilated area (outside) over a garbage can, flush
    out the entire gun (slide, frame, barrel, recoil spring and guide rod) with
    an aerosol type degreaser (Gun Scubber, brake cleaner, etc).
    NOTE: Don't forget to do the bore

14) The aerosol type degreaser will cut any oil and grease, and flush 
    away any residue, powerful stuff...it will dry fast, but wipe away 
    any excess and try to keep it away from the paint on your sights.

15) Spread all the parts out and spray them down with a liberal amount of
    some dry carrier lube (Hornady One Shot for example).  NOTE: Don't
    forget the bore. Let the stuff dry.

16) If you have some slide grease (try Shooters Choice, strange red stuff in
    a syringe type container), put a small amount on the slide rails 
    and grooves. NOTE: DO NOT USE GREASE ON GLOCK SLIDE RAILS!

17) Reassemble the gun, wipe off the excess dry carrier lube, put the 
    grips back on.

18) Now disassemble your magazine, wipe all the parts off with a patch
    wet with solvent, spray the parts down with the aerosol cleaner, 
    wipe it off, spray the parts down with the dry carrier lube, 
    let it dry.  Reassemble.


VIII. Techniques
      A. Pistol Techniques
         2. Cleaning
            b. Revolvers


VIII. Techniques
      A. Pistol Techniques
	 3. Presentation


VIII. Techniques
      B. Rifle Techniques
	 1. Carry Techniques


VIII. Techniques
      B. Rifle Techniques
	 2. Cleaning


VIII. Techniques
      B. Rifle Techniques
	 3. Presentation




IX. Competitive Information
   A. A List of Competitive Shooting Events

By Jaroslav Liptak

According to the UIT Journal 4/92):

(a quote from the document "Special Regulations for the 
Participation in the Sport Shooting Events of the Olympic 
Games Atlanta 1996")

1. On the program of the Olympic Games, the Shooting Sport 
is represented with fifteen (15) different events in five 
(5) Olympic Disciplines.

1.1 Rifle Discipline:

1.1.1   For Men
        50 m Free Rifle         60 shots prone
        50 m Free Rifle         3 x 40 shots
        10 m Air Rifle          60 shots standing

1.1.2   For Women
        50 m Standard Rifle     3 x 20 shots
        10 m Air Rifle          40 shots standing

1.2     Pistol Discipline:

1.2.1   For Men
        50 m Free Pistol        60 shots
        25 m Rapid Fire Pistol  60 shots
        10 m Air Pistol         60 shots

1.2.2   For Women
        25 m Sport Pistol       30 + 30 shots
        10 m Air Pistol         60 shots

1.3     Running Target Discipline
        10 m Running Target, Men 30 + 30 shots

1.4     Shotgun Discipline

1.4.1   For Men
        Olympic Trap            125 targets
        Olympic Skeet           125 targets
        Dounble Trap            150 targets

1.4.2   For Women
        Double Trap             120 Targets

(end quote)
There is also a non-trivial quota system allowing the 
participation of a total of 430 athletes on the Olympic 
Games in all events. 

The International Shooting Union has 
issued a remarkable amount of regulations, rules and 
guidelines; only the five rulebooks have 250 pages totally.
There were some important changes in the 1993 edition 
regarding shooting times, the rapid fire pistol and the 
shotgun events and the final competitions. If you want some 
details, (target diameters, firearms parameters/restrictions, timing,
distances and other rule topics) I can post them at request. 
But for the size reasons, it is impossible for me to post a summary or 
overview. If someone wants to get the global information, 
the best solution is ordering the rulebooks at the 
International Shooting Union, Bavariaring 21, D-8000 
Muenchen 2, Fed. Rep. Germany. The price is something around 
DM 20 without postage.

Hope this helps

Jaro


IX. Competetive Information
    B. IPSC Information


- End of segment three/four of the rec.guns FAQ -





Article: 50540 of rec.guns
From: dputzolu@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (putzolu david)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: rec.guns FAQ 4/4
Date: 21 Oct 1993 09:42:03 -0400
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 2394
Sender: magnum@cs.umd.edu
Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu
Message-ID: <2a556d$rge@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xring.cs.umd.edu

























X. Miscellaneous
   A. DCM Summary - "Uncle Sam Sells Garand Rifles to Civilians"

By Ron Phillips

The following are replies to the question:

"Why does the United States Department of Defense sell battle rifles
to civilians ? "

"What do I need to do to get a DCM rifle ?"

"Why is the DCM program important ?"

DCM = "Director of Civilian Marksmanship"
CMP = "Civilian Marksmanship Program"

----------------------------------------------------------------------

		 	  DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
			  	 OFFICE OF
		     DIRECTOR OF CIVILIAN MARSKMANSHIP
		  	WASHINGTON, D.C. 20314-0100


SFDM

			     INFORMATION PAPER

							1 January 1989
1. SUBJECT: Civilian Marksmanship Program

2. PURPOSE: This Information Paper provides a discussion of the:

	a. Aims and Goals of the Civilian Marksmanship program.

	b. Legislative Authority for the Civilian Marksmanship program.

	c. History, function and responsibilities of the National Board 
	   for the Promotion of Rifle Practice.

	d. Duties and responsibilities of the Director of Civilian 
	   Marksmanship (DCM).

	e. Club enrollment, issues, loans and sales administered by the 
	   DCM.

3. DISCUSSION:

	a. The primary aim of the Civilian Marksmanship Program is to 
	   provide training for civilians and other personnel subject to 
	   introduction into the Armed Forces of the U.S. who might later 
	   enter military service and to prepare instructors to conduct 
	   such training so that they may function effectively in the 
	   National interest in case of war, with particular emphasis on 
	   training of juniors.  Until the likelihood of armed conflict 
	   is eliminated this requirement will persist.

		(1) In spite of recent technological developments in the 
		    modes of waging war, the Army's Light Weapons 
		    Infantryman (LWI) and the Marines are almost certain 
		    to be employed in an "shooting wars" in which our 
		    nation become embroiled.  Since the basic individual 
		    weapon of such combat arms is the rifle, it is 
		    important that the men in such units and/or potential 
		    combatants become thoroughly porficient in its use.

		(2) If the active Army's Marksmanship Training Program 
		    were fully capable, that is, if there were sufficient 
		    time, facilities and qualified instructors available 
		    to turn out enough completely capable combat riflemen 
		    by the time they were needed (including periods of 
		    full national mobilization), then there would be 
		    little, if any justification for a Civilian 
		    Marksmanship Program.  On the other hand, the shorter 
		    the time for mobilization and training and the fewer 
		    the trained instructors available, the more valuable 
		    is a Civilian Marksmanship Program which contributes 
		    to the development of qualified instructors and to 
		    the training of young U.S. citizens apt to enter 
		    military service abd be assigned to a rifle unit.

	b. The goal of the Civilian Marksmanship Program is to provide 
	   viable marksmanship training for U.S. citizens and other 
	   authorized personnel who might be called into service in time 
	   of National emergency with emphasis on juniors (age 10-25), 
	   senior leadership, and certified instructors.

	c. The cornerstone to the CMP is its Congressional mandate 
	   coupled with additional legislative enactments, and various 
	   regulations and policies of the Departments of the Army and 
	   Defense.  Sections 4307 through 4313, Title 10, United States 
	   Code, provide that the Secretary of the Army will promote 
	   marksmanship training with rifled arms among citizens of the 
	   United States.  Furthermore, within the limits of available 
	   funds, the Secretary of the Army provides citizens outside the 
	   active service of the Armed Forces of the United States with 
	   means whereby they may become proficient in the use of rifled 
	   arms.  The Secretary of the Army fulfills the forestated 
	   congressional requirements through the implementation of a 
	   viable Civilian Marksmanship Program.  The National Board for 
	   the Promotion of Rifle Practice (NBPRP) has been authorized by 
	   Congress to advise the Secretary of the Army of the 
	   implementation of the Civilian Marksmanship Program.  The 
	   President of the NBPRP (normally the Under Secretary of the 
	   Army) is designated by and acts for the Secretary if the Army 
	   on NBPRP matters, including approval of expenditures.

	d. The National Board for the promotion of Rifle Practice (NBPRP) 
	   is an advisory committee for the Secretary of the army.  The 
	   Board was established by law in 1903 to encourage U.S. citizens 
	   to develop marksmanship skills in the event they would be 
	   called upon to defend their country in a time of emergency.  
	   Congressional interest arose as a result of reports that 
	   American service personnel were entering combat inadequately 
	   trained in marksmanship thus reducing the combat effectiveness 
	   of their units.  During World War II it was reported that more 
	   than 1.8 million Americans had received marksmanship training 
	   through the Civilian Marksmanship Program prior to entering 
	   military service.  Additionally, more than 200 civilian 
	   marksmanship instructors beyond age for active service 
	   volunteered to conduct marksmanship training for military 
	   personnel at training camps throughout the United States.

	e. The function of the National Board for the Promotion of Rifle 
	   Practice is to advise the Secretary of the Army in the 
	   promotion among citizens and other authorized personnel, not 
	   reached through training programs of the active components of 
	   the Armed Forces of the United States, practice in the use of 
	   such arms; to advise on issue in connection therewith; to 
	   provide necessary arms, ammunition, targets and other supplies 
	   and appliances; to advise on the procurement of and 
	   presentation to winning competitiors trophies medals, badges, 
	   and other insignia; and to create a public sentiment which 
	   emphasizes the necessity of marksmanship training with 
	   military-type individual small arms as a means of National 
	   defense.

	f. Section 4307, Title 10, U.S. Code, authorizes the President to 
	   detail an officer of the Army or Marine Corps as Director of 
	   Civilian Marksmanship.  The President of the NBPRP selects the 
	   Director of Civilian Marksmanship (DCM) who is responsible for 
	   the implementation of the Civilian Marksmanship Program (CMP) 
	   as approved by the Presidentm to include making all contracts, 
	   preparing and defending annual budget request, making 
	   recommendations relating to policies of the CMP, arranging the 
	   award of trophies and medals in competitions sponsored by the 
	   Secretary of the Army and coordinating National Match planning.  
	   The DCM is normally a commissioned Officer of the Army.

	g. The Office of the DCM (ODCM) provides administrative support to 
	   the CMP; handles correspondence dealing with the individual 
	   civilian shooter and clubs; enrolls clubs; plans and arranges 
	   for issue and maintenance of arms, ammunition and supplies to 
	   civilian clubs, State Associations and authorized schools; 
	   receives reports and monitors civilian marksmanship activities; 
	   plans for and issues shooting awards; maintains liaison with US 
	   Army Armament, Munitions and Chemical Command (AMCCOM) and other 
	   military support agencies, and the NRA; maintains match records 
	   and individual marksmanship qualification and Excellence-in-
	   Competition records; and, assists the Director of Civilian 
	   Marksmanship in carrying out his responsiblity for:

		(1) Initiating, developing, coordinating, and recommending
		    appropriate actions on matters pertaining to :

			(a) Organization of civilian rifle clubs;

			(b) Policies and procedures governing the 
			    enrollment of civilian clubs and schools in 
			    the civlian marksmanship program fostered by 
			    the Secretary of the Army, President of the 
			    NBPRP, and implemented by the DCM;
	
			(c) Policies and procedures governing the issue or 
			    sale of rifles, ammunition, targets, and other 
			    supplies and materials required in the conduct 
			    of small arms marksmanship training;

			(d) Bonding of clubs and schools to which Government
			    property is issued on a temporarty basis;

			(e) Proper accountability of Government property 
			    issued issued to civilian rifle clubs and 
			    schools;

			(f) Policies and procedures governing prescribed 
			    courses of fire for members of civilian rifle 
			    clubs and award marksmanship qualification 
			    badges, medals and trophies and other insignia 
			    as availabled to qualifying shooters in civilian 
			    clubs and schools; and

			(g) Requests from schools and authorized civilian 
			    organizations to use government-owned rifle 
			    ranges at military installations throughout 
			    the United States.

		(2) Conducting a continuing review of major policies of the 
		    President of the NBPRP as related to those of the NRA 
		    to insure proper correlation between the two 
		    organizations on matters pertaining to nationwide 
		    civilian marksmanship training programs.

	h.  The Office of the DCM maintains records on DCM-entrolled clubs, 
	    arms issued by serial number, national and international award 
	    winners, and shooters who have won their Distinguished rating.  
	    Its club records are entered into the support automated 
	    information management system.

	i.  Club enrollment, issues and loans administered by the DCM:

		(1) Junior rifle clubs and senior clubs with junior 
		    divisions are enrolled in the Civilian Marksmanship 
		    Program upon request.  To qualify, a club must have 
		    three adult leaders, one of which must be a qualified 
		    marksmanship instructor.  There must be at least ten 
		    junior members from 10 to 20 years of age.

		(2) Upon receipt of application, the club and its leaders 
		    are cleared through the National Agency Check 
		    Investigative Center and the FBI to insure only 
		    reputable organizations are supported.  Subsequent to 
		    clearance, the club is issued an annual allocation of 
		    ammunition (300 rounds caliber .22 per jnior member) 
		    and appropriate targets.

		(3) If requested, the DCM will provide military type 
		    firearms on an indefinite loan basis as long as the 
		    club is in good standing and has a bond to cover the 
		    value of the firearms loaned.

		(4) Clubs are required to complete a preprinted report once 
		    a year.  Based upon information reported, club members 
		    are awarded qualification badges according to scores 
		    fired on a DCM approved course of fire; and the club 
		    is issued the following training year's allocation of 
		    ammunition and targets.  In addition, clubs are 
		    permitted to purchase ammunition up to 2,000 rounds 
		    per club member reported at Army cost plus shipping 
		    charges.

	j. Sales of Government arms through the DCM is restricted to the M1 
	   rifle (Garand).  Individuals who wish to purchase a service 
	   Grade M1 rifle from the Army through the sales program 
	   controlled by the Director of Civilian Marksmanship must fully 
	   meet the following eligibility requirements by providing proof 
	   that the requestor is:

		(1) A United States citiizen 18 years of age or older;

		(2) A current member of a DCM-enrolled rifle club or State 
		    Rifle Association in good standing;

		(3) A participant, competitor, or instructor in a high 
		    power rifle  marksmanship training program.  This 
		    evidence may be high power rifle competitive class 
		    card; a temporary score book; a bulletin from 
		    registered or approved competitions; a certified rifle 
		    instructors's card; or, a letter from the President, 
		    Secretary of Club Leader or DCM-entrolled Club or State 
		    Association, attesting to his/her active participation 
		    in high power rifle marksmanship training.  If the 
		    requestor is a recipient of the Distinguished Rifleman 
		    Badge or a Service Rifle Excellence-in-Competition Badge, 
		    he or she can cite the date the award was earned.

		(4) Army Regulation 725-1, C3, limits the purchase of the M1 
		    rifle to _one_ per individual.  This emans that if an 
		    individual has already purchased an M1 rifle of either 
		    type from the Army he/she may _not_ purchase another.  
		    Further, in the Certificate for Purchase of Firearms 
		    which the requestior must complete he/she stipulates 
		    that the M1 rifle is for personal use and not for resale 
		    or other disposition.

		<SIGNATURE>

PREPARED BY: 	M. S. GILCHRIST
		Colonel, Armor
		Director


----------------------------------------------------------------------


DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
OFFICE OF THE DIRECTOR OF CIVILIAN MARKSMANSHIP
WASHINGTON, DC 20314-0100

SFDM                                              1 May 1991

SUBJECT: M1 (Garand) Sales Program and Eligibility Requirements

1. The Army is authorized to sell excess service firearms as part of an 
   effort to increase military preparedness through marksmanship. The M1 
   rifle (service grade) is the only firearm currently available for sale 
   through the DCM. The M1 sales program is available to individuals who 
   are members of DCM-enrolled rifle clubs or state rifle associations 
   and are involved in high-power rifle marksmanship training.

2. Purchasers must be citizens of the United States, 18 years of age or 
   older, belong to a DCM-enrolled club and/or state association and show 
   proof of high- power rifle activity. All persons precluded from 
   purchasing firearms by the 1968 Gun Control Act are ineligible for 
   firearm purchase. Listed below are eli- gibility requirements for 
   purchase of an M1 (service grade) rifle:

   a. Provide proof of age and United States citizenship. The following 
      items are acceptable documents (only one of the following is required):

        (1) Copy of birth certificate
        (2) Copy of voter registration card
        (3) Copy of U.S. Department of State issued passport
        (4) Proof of V.S. naturalization
        (5) Report of military discharge or separation (DD214)

   b. Provide proof of current membership in a DCM-enrolled club that is 
      in good standing, or membership in a state rifle association. Only 
      current memberships are acceptable.

   c. Furnish proof of highpower rifle marksmanship activity. Only one of 
      the below is required.

        (1) A highpower rifle classification card issued by the NRA.
        (2) A certificate of completion of Small Arms Firing School-Rifle.
        (3) Participation in a formal DCM qualification competition 
	    conducted by a DCM-enrolled club (in good standing) showing at 
	    least 100 rounds fired in two or more competitions.
        (4) Copies of final match bulletins from any NRA registered or 
	    approved highpower rifle tournaments or DCM approved "Leg" 
	    matches showing at least 120 rounds fired in competition in 
	    two or more matches.
        (5) A Temporary Score Record Book, used for NRA registered and 
	    approved highpower rifle tournaments providing it contains 
	    at least 100 record shots over two or more conventional 
	    courses of fire.
        (6) Proof of Distinguished Rifleman status.
        (7) Certified instructor cards for rifle. (Silhouette is not 
	    acceptable).

   d. Military qualification records, hunter safety cards, federal firearms 
      licenses, etc., are not acceptable.

   e. Military personnel must comply with above requirements, the same as 
      civil ians.

3. The price of an M1 rifle includes all administrative and shipping 
   charges.  Do not send money until you are specifically requested to do 
   so. Purchase of the M1 Service Grade rifle is limited to one per 
   individual per lifetime. If you have already purchased an M1 rifle from 
   the Army, you may not purchase another. You must also certify that the 
   purchase is for personal use and not for resale or other disposition.

4. Reproduced copies showing proof of eligibility are acceptable.

5. If you desire acknowledgement of receipt of your request include a self-
   addressed stamped postcard with your request. This will be returned when 
   we receive the request.  Send requests to:

        Director of Civilian Marksmanship
        Department of the Army
        20 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W.
        Room 1205, Pulaski Building
        Washington, D.C. 20314-0100

6. For those applications that are complete, a "Purchase Firearm Packet," 
   with instructions, will be forwarded. When the completed documents are 
   returned to the DCM office and a determination has been made that all 
   forms are correctly prepared, the fingerprint card and DD Form 398-2 
   (background investigation) are sent to the National Agency Check and 
   Investigative Center (NACIC) for action. This is a lengthy process and 
   your patience is appreciated.

7. When the applicant has been cleared by the NACIC, the Certificate for 
   Purchase of Firearms is sent to AMCCOM to authorize the sale. AMCCOM 
   conducts a final record check to determine if the applicant may have 
   previously purchased an M1 rifle. If the record check reveals that the 
   applicant has not, AMCCOM will request remittance of $165.00. Upon 
   receipt of the remittance, AMCCOM will then package and ship the M1 to 
   requestor. Do not send money until requested to do so.


PREPARED BY:  PAUL E. CULLINANE, JR. 
              Colonel, Infantry 
              Director


----------------------------------------------------------------------
Since a number of people have asked me about how to get a DCM rifle.  Here
is some info collected from various sources and the initial letter I sent
to the DCM.	-Bruce
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
                         Combat Arms
                       2869 Grove Way
            Castro Valley, California 94546-6709
                  Telephone (415) 538-6544
                  BBS Phone: (415) 537-1777


       HOW TO GET AN M1 GARAND THROUGH THE DCM PROGRAM


     The following material is based on my experience and
knowledge of the Department of Civilian Marksmanship (DCM)
program, articles in The American Rifleman and the obtaining
of a genuine U.S. military M1 Garand directly from the U.S.
Army for just $165.00. This information is current as of
February, 1990.


    QUALIFICATIONS TO GET A RIFLE THROUGH THE DCM PROGRAM

1.   You must be a U.S. citizen.
2.   You must be 18 years of age or older.
3.   You must be a member in good standing in a DCM-enrolled
     club or state association. Around here I suggest joining 
     the Chabot Gun Club or the California Rifle & Pistol 
     Association (if you live in the Oakland/Hayward/Fremont
     area) or the San Jose Zouaves Rifle Club (if you live in
     the San Jose/South Bay area.).
4.   You must have participated in highpower rifle competition 
     and fired at least 120 rounds in not less than two (2) 
     approved matches.

		WHAT TO DO ABOUT SHOOTING IN THE MATCHES

1.   Join a DCM-affiliated Rifle Club if you are not already 
     a member.  Details are available at the Chabot Rifle
     range located in Anthony Chabot Regional Park/Castro
     Valley or the Santa Clara Field Sports Park located off
     Metcalf Road in South San Jose.

2.   Next, call the DCM-affiliated Rifle Club and make a
     reservation to shoot in the next DCM match.  If you do
     not have a "highpowered" rifle, see if you can reserve
     one of the club's "loaners" at this time. What's a
     highpowered rifle, you ask? Well, it's one that fires a
     centerfire cartridge, such as .222, .223, 7mm, even .30
     M1 Carbine, .308, .30-`06, etc. The rifle may be a bolt
     action model or semiautomatic. If it is semiautomatic,
     bring a couple of magazines. The weapon must be capable
     of holding 5 rounds with none in the chamber.

3.   Smart folks either have their spouse/roommate pack them
     a bag lunch. You'll be there until about noon if you are 
     in relay one or two and until about 3:00 p.m. if you are
     in relay #3 or relay #4 and hunger pains make shooting
     tough!

4.   At about 7:45 AM on the day of the match, show up at
     the 200 yard range.

5.   In the first of the four shooting events in the match,
     you will be required to shoot 22 rounds slow fire from
     the standing position with no sling. The first two
     rounds are the sighting-in rounds and may be fired from
     any position. You have 22 minutes (1 minute per round)
     to fire the 22 rounds. The targets are always at 200
     yards. I suggest you get your weapon sighted in at
     at one of the local gun range's 200 yard target. Practice 
     shooting from an unsupported position. That means you can 
     use a sling but no sandbag! Also, no scope is permitted on 
     the weapon. If your weapon is magazine fed, you load an 
     empty magazine and manually put one round in the chamber 
     of the weapon (or position the round through the ejection 
     port and sit it in the magazine), close the bolt and 
     discharge the cartridge. This manual loading procedure 
     seems to me to be geared towards equalizing an advantage 
     over the bolt action weapons. Yes, it is a pain in the neck,
     but those are the rules and even the pros follow them
     and many of those shooters are using M1A's, etc.

6.   After every shot, the target will be pulled down and
     marked. The value of the shot will be indicated to you
     by the position of an orange disk set on the perimeter
     of the target. See the illustration below. For example,
     if the orange disk appears in the upper right corner of
     the target, your shot went somewhere in the 7 ring.
     When the target comes up, look for the position of the
     orange disk (for the value) and a white (if shot was in
     the black area) or black (if shot was outside the black
     area) disk to tell you the position of the shot. In our
     example of the 7 ring shot, you would be looking for a
     white disk somewhere outside the black target to tell
     you where you hit in the seven ring. If the orange disk
     is at the M position (12 o'clock), your shot was
     outside the 5 ring and worth zero points. Therefore M
     stands for "missed." Each shot for the record (which
     excludes the two sighting shots) is worth 10 points.
     Therefore the highest possible score for the offhand
     standing position is 20 shots x 10 points = 200 points.
     After all 22 rounds are fired (and remember that the
     first two were sighting shots and worth no point value
     in your actual score), you prepare for the sitting
     position.

                   ZDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD?
                   36         M         73
                   3                     3
                   3      [[[[[[[[       3
                   3      [Target[       3
                   35     [[Area[[      83
                   3      [[[[[[[[       3
                   3      [[[[[[[[       3
                   3                     3
                   3X        10         93
                   @DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDY

7.   In the second of the four shooting events, you will
     fire 10 rounds rapid fire from the sitting position
     plus two sighting shots. You may use a sling. Each time
     the sighting shots are fired, the target is lowered and
     the shots recorded and marked with the orange disk and
     the white or black disk. After finishing the two
     sighting shots the targets are all lowered. You will be
     told to load two rounds in one magazine and eight
     rounds in another magazine. At Mr. Levesque's command,
     you will stand, load and, when all of the target are
     raised simultaneously, drop to a sitting position
     immediately and fire 10 rounds from the sitting
     position in 60 seconds. You have a lot of time, so use
     it. Nothing is dumber than to finish this event in 20
     or 25 seconds. Use all the time and make every shot an
     aimed shot! At the conclusion of the sitting shots, the
     targets will be lowered, scored, marked and then
     raised. When they reappear, you'll see 10 (assuming
     that each of your 10 shots hit the target) little black
     and/or white disks in the places where you hit plus a
     green slender chalkboard that has written on it the
     number of X's, 10's, 9's, 8's, 7's, 6's and 5's you
     got. You cannot see the values on the chalkboard or the
     little marking disks very well without a spotting scope
     or binoculars.

8.   The third event requires that you fire 10 rounds rapid
     fire from the prone position in 70 seconds. You are
     permitted to use a sling. First, of course, you have
     the two sighting shots. The target will be lowered
     after each sighting shot, recorded and raised. Then,
     just like in the sitting event, all targets are
     lowered. You will then be told to load one magazine
     with two rounds and another magazine with eight rounds.
     When all the targets are raised simultaneously, you
     have 70 seconds to complete the 10 shots. The targets
     are lowered and the shots scored and recorded as was
     done in step 7. You now prepare yourself for the last
     shooting event.

9.   In the fourth and final event, you will fire 10 rounds
     (with two sighting rounds first) slow fire from the
     prone position (use of a sling is permitted). From the
     time you are told to commence firing, you have 12
     minutes to fire the two sighting shots plus the 10
     record shots. Like in the standing slow fire event, the
     weapon must have an empty magazine in it and one round
     at a time is loaded and fired. After each shot the
     target is lowered, the score recorded and the target
     raised.

10.  You have now fired 50 rounds for points (for a maximum
     possible score of 500 points) plus eight sighting shots
     for a total of 58 rounds. Bring about 75 rounds with
     you. The concrete floor is hard, so it's a good idea to
     also bring a mat or blanket to lay on. If you already
     have a shooting jacket, bring it also but don't go buy
     one especially for this event.

11.  The hardest part for me was understanding the method
     they use to indicate to you where you hit the target.
     It helps tremendously if you bring a spotting scope or
     binoculars.  Also, if you have a person spotting for
     you, it might help to have them call the shots as they
     occur using the numbered rings on the target and an
     imaginary clock reference.  For example, a shot which
     enters the "6 ring" left of center would be called
     "6 at 9 o'clock".

12.  The first thing that happens when you arrive is that
     you get in line and sign up and pay the fee ($10.00).
     At 9:00 a.m., relay #1 of the match is held for the
     highly qualified and expert guys and gals. About 10:15
     a.m. they will be finished and then relay #2 (who
     pulled and scored targets for relay #1) gets to shoot
     at about 10:30 a.m. When you sign up you'll be told
     which relay you'll fire in if you did not make a
     reservation by phone with Mr. Levesque. Some shooters
     in relays #3 and #4 then leave after signing up at 8:00
     a.m. and later return. Since nothing ever goes smoothly
     in this world and things change, I suggest that you
     stick around the first time you go. The first time you
     go to this match, watch the pros shoot in relays #1 and
     #2 and see how they do it. It'll help you when it's
     your turn. When relay #2 is finished, relay #3 begins
     shooting at about noon while relay #4 pulls and scores
     targets. Then relay #4 shoots and relay #3 pulls and
     scores targets for them. The last of the shooting for
     relay #4 occurs about 2:45 p.m.

13.  Let's say you are in the second group to shoot (relay
     #2), so you'll be pulling targets first. You will go
     down to the "pits" at the 200 yard line and mark the
     shooter's target as he/she shoots. Do a fair and
     helpful job because that person shooting will be the
     one who marks your target when you get to shoot! By the
     way, if a shot hits the dividing line between two
     values (e.g., the 8 ring and the 9 ring), the shooter
     is awarded the higher value.

14.  After the shooter is finished, you calculate his/her
     score and go back up to the firing line, where you
     ready yourself for your shooting period.

15.  Now you shoot. It is noteworthy that your score does
     not matter for the purposes of getting the M1 Garand.
     What matters is that you participated in the match. So
     don't get all embarrassed. It's tough to shoot offhand
     and you should practice if you want your score to be
     higher.

16.  After you have completed your shooting and target
     pulling sessions, you leave and head for home.


			THE PAPER WORK AND TIME REQUIRED


1.   Sooner or later you will receive a copy of the official
     score results in the mail. Don't lose this because you
     must send it in to Washington to verify that you
     actually participated in the DCM approved match. The
     current rules require that you fire 120 rounds in
     approved matches. You just did 50 of them. Now you keep
     the score report for that 50 and need only 70 more
     rounds. That actually means that you have to
     participate in a total of three matches for 150 rounds
     to qualify to buy the rifle. So, go to two more matches
     and get two more score reports.

2.   Now gather together photocopies of the following items.
     a.   Proof of age and U.S. citizenship. Acceptable
          items of proof are any one of the following
          documents:
          1.   A copy of your birth certificate.
          2.   A copy of your DD214.
          3.   A copy of your voter registration card.
          4.   A copy of the i.d. section of your U.S.
               issued passport.
          5.   Proof of U.S. naturalization.
     b.   Proof of participation in the DCM match.
          1.   Send a photocopy of the bulletins you
               received showing your score. Do not send the
               original, in case things go astray and you
               have to re-submit your paperwork. Remember
               that you need score reports from three
               matches.
          2.   Also acceptable for proof of highpower rifle
               marksmanship activity are any one of the
               following instead of item 2b1:
               i.   A highpower rifle classification card
                    issued by the NRA.
               ii.  A certificate of completion of Small
                    Arms Firing School for Rifle.
               iii. Proof of Distinguished Rifleman status.
               iv.  Certified instructor cards for rifle
                    (silhouette is not acceptable).
          3.   Please note that military qualification
               records, hunter safety cards, Federal
               Firearms Licenses, etc. are not acceptable.

     c.   Proof of current membership in a DCM enrolled club
          that is in good standing or in a state rifle
          association.
          1.   This is a copy of your current Gun Club membership 
	       card, a letter from the Secretary of your gun club
               stating you are a member in good standing, etc. Out 
	       of date membership is invalid.

3.   Write a letter requesting the purchase of a DCM M1
     Garand to:

               Director of Civilian Marksmanship
               Department of the Army
               20 Massachusetts Avenue, N. W.
               Pulaski Building - Room 1205
               Washington, DC 20314-0100

     Enclose the photocopies detailed in item #2 above. The
     current Director is Colonel M.S. Gilchrist.

4.   Now the waiting begins. When the DCM gets your letter
     and photocopies, they'll review the documentation for
     correctness and, if you have sent all the required
     material, the DCM will mail you a "Purchase Firearm
     Packet" to complete. They normally ship that to you
     within a week of receiving your initial letter. The
     package includes a statement of intended use,
     fingerprint cards, and a request for disclosure of
     prior purchases under the program. You can only get one
     (1) M1 Garand under this program in your lifetime! If
     you have already purchased an M1 rifle from the Army,
     you may not purchase another. You must also certify
     that the purchase is for personal use and not for
     resale or other disposition.

5.   Go to your local police or sheriff office and get
     fingerprinted using the fingerprint cards that the DCM
     mailed you in the Purchase Firearm Packet. No other
     fingerprint card is acceptable. The law enforcement
     agency charges a fee for this, usually around $10.00.

6.   Mail all of the completed forms and fingerprint cards
     back to the DCM office. Also enclose a self addressed
     stamped postcard. DCM will complete the postcard and
     send it to you, thereby letting you know they received
     the package. When the DCM office has made a
     determination that all forms are correctly prepared,
     they will send the fingerprint cards and DD Form 1518
     (Background Investigation) to the National Agency Check
     and Investigative Center (NACIC) for a background
     check. This process with NACIC can take up to six
     months because it is low priority, not because you're a
     bad guy! When the DCM finally hears from NACIC that you
     are cleared, then the DCM, within about two weeks of
     receiving the NACIC clearance, sends an "approval of
     purchase request data" to Rock Island Arsenal in
     Illinois. This is the government Rock Island Arsenal,
     not the commercial one. Rock Island will check their
     records to ascertain that you haven't already gotten an
     M1 Garand through the program and will then mail you an
     invoice for $165.00 and the necessary instructions. Do
     not send money until you are requested to do so! From
     the time DCM sends the form to Rock Island Arsenal
     until you get the invoice from Rock Island is about two
     months.

7.   When you finally get the invoice for $165.00 from Rock
     Island Arsenal, follow their instructions to the
     letter! When Rock Island receives your money order
     (preferred) or check they will, within about a two
     month period, send shipping instructions to Anniston
     Army Depot in Anniston, Alabama.

8.   Once Anniston Army Depot gets the approval from Rock
     Island Arsenal to ship, Anniston will process the order
     and ship you an M1 Garand via U.S. Mail (not UPS - this
     is the U.S. Army doing the shipping and they use the
     U.S. Post Office).

9.   From the time you shoot at the last of the three DCM
     matches until the postman delivers your M1 Garand
     typically takes 11 to 14 months, so don't get antsy and
     start bothering DCM. It's a waste of your time and
     theirs too.

10.  Now that you are going to get one, what is an M1
     Garand? It is a 9.5 pound, wooden stocked,
     semiautomatic, gas operated, shoulder fired rifle that
     shoots a .30-`06 cartridge from an 8 round clip. It was
     developed in the late 1930s, designed by John Garand
     and used in WWII and Korea by U.S. forces. The basic
     design was later modified and became the M-14 in .308
     with a 20 round magazine. No, you can't easily covert
     an M1 to an M-14. The M1 Garand is still used by third
     world countries. The rifle is used by some shooters in
     the National Matches at Camp Perry in Ohio and is
     capable of accurately shooting 1,000 yard targets.
     Commercially, the M1 Garand at guns shops around the
     country today are surplus weapons made in the United
     States, exported to Korea and re-imported back into the
     United States as surplus rifles.Match grade versions of
     the M1 Garand can be created from these surplus rifles
     upon request. If you decide to order one, please come
     by the shop or call in using your credit card.



X. Miscellaneous
   B. Bill Ruger Consumer Debate Summary


X.  Miscellaneous
    C. Lubricants
       1. Information about commerically available solvents.
          a. Prolix

                 Peter Alan Kasler highly recommends Prolix, which he
             uses for his personal guns as well as in his school.  It
             is difficult to find in gun stores for various reasons,
             but usually the manufacturer will ship directly to end users.
             Contact Phil Levy at ProChem Co., P.O. Box 1348, Victorville,
             CA 92393, or call him at 619-243-3129. Please tell him you
             heard about it from Peter Alan Kasler.


X.  Miscellaneous
    C. Lubricants
       2. The Case Against Petroleum Based Lubricants
              The reason that traditional petroleum-based lucricants
          are bad in pistols is chiefly because they have a great
          affinity for dust and other airborn particulate matter,
          including unburnt powder, of which there is a lot depending
          on which ammunition is used. Such unburnt powder, dust, and
          other grunge that combines with gun oil and/or the residue
          of gun oil that remains after the original stuff cooks off
          during the firing process, leaves a black, gritty sludge
          that really screws up an otherwise fine pistol.  This
          information is from Peter Alan Kasler, and more detailed
          arguments are available in his book, "GLOCK: The New Wave
          in Combar Handguns."


X. Miscellaneous
   D. Solvents
      1. Don't Mix Shooter's Choice and Hoppe's!


X. Miscellaneous
   D. Solvents
      2. Information About Commercially Available Solvents


X. Miscellaneous
   D. Solvents
      3. Homebrew Recipies
	 a. Ed's Red

BEAT THE HIGH PRICE OF BORE CLEANERS... (MIX YOUR OWN) By Ed Harris
 
I got disgusted with the high price of rifle bore cleaner and the use of
harsh chemicals for copper removal which are neither necessary nor
desirable for cast bullet shooting.  I wanted a cleaner that was
inexpensive, and effective, which provides reasonable corrosion
protection and adequate lubrication.
 
After looking over Hatcher's Notebook, I came up with my own variation of
Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18.  The original recipe called for equal
parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and
optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per liter. Pratts Astral oil was
nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene.   K1 kerosene of the
type normally sold for indoor space heaters can be substituted.  Finding
an inexpensive and effective substitute for the sperm oil only took
alittle research.  I found that prior to  about 1950 that most automatic
transmission fluid was sperm oil based.  After talking to an Amoco
industrial representative we agreed the organometallic antioxidants and
surfactants in Dextron II ATF made it highly suitable for our intended
purpose.
 
While this cleaner local shooter's have dubbed "Ed's Red" (with my profuse
apologies to Bartle's and James) does nothing to remove copper fouling,
there are other preparations which do that readily. More importantly,
there is nothing in this cleaner which reacts adversely with ammonia or
other common decoppering agents which might cause pitting.  Shooter's
Choice and some other bore cleaners carry specific warnings about using
them in combination with other cleaners.
 
Ed's Red is effective in removing leading and powder residue, provides
reasonable lubrication, and does not appreciably affect first shot point
of impact.  I find it an effective and inexpensive all-purpose gun
cleaner.  Addition of the lanolin is optional, and the cleaner works
quite well without it.  However, the affinity of lanolin for water
displaces moisture if you use the cleaner for swabbing after water
cleaning from having used blackpowder, duplex loads or chlorate primers. 
It also makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides better
residual lubrication.  Mix some yourself.  I hope it works as well for
you as it does for me.
 
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
 
    1 part Dextron II ATF, GM Spec. D-20265
    1 part Kerosene - deodorized K1
    1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9
	1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
	Optional up to 1 lb. of anhydrous lanolin, USP per gallon
 
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
 
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation.  Use a clean 1gallon metal or
chemical-resistant HDPE or polypropylene plastic container.  Add the  ATF
first.  Use this empty container to measure the other components,  so that it
is thoroughly rinsed.  If you incorporate the lanolin into  the mixture, melt
this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions  against fire and pour
it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore
cleaner mix, stirring until it is all dissolved.
 
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:
 
1.  Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning  is
    most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to  the touch
    from firing.  Saturate a cotton patch with bore  cleaner, wrap or impale
    on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle.  The patch
    should be a snug fit.  Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
    back into the bore.
 
2.  Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
    breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
    and advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle.   Waiting
    approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will  improve its
    action.
 
3.  For pitted, heavily leaded or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with
    bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This  is
    unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
 
4.  Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush  out
    loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red.  Let the patch fall  off the jag
    without pulling it back into the bore.  If you are  finished firing,
    leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust.
 
5.  Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the  gun.
    While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
    contains is harmful to most wood finishes).
 
6.  Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and  dry
    the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized  brush or jag.
    First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed  by Ed's Red if
    the bore is cleaned as described.
 
7.  If using blackpowder or chlorate primers, hot water cleaning is
    recommended, followed with a flush with Ed's Red to displace moisture and
    to prevent after-rusting from residual moisture.
 
LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS:
 
"Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" FOR USE AS A FIREARM BORE CLEANER ONLY
 
1.  Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
 
2.  FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
    immediately.  In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
    water and call a physician.  For skin contact wash thoroughly.
 
3.  Use with adequate ventilation.  Avoid breathing vapors. Keep
    container tightly closed when not in use.
 
 
Regards, Ed



X. Miscellaneous
   E. Female-Specific Issues Relating to Firearms

infomation from Paxton Quigley, Courtesy of Julian Macassey

There are handgun courses aimed specifically at women. They
have a different approach and some teach threat avoidance as well.
There are also some books written for women. Many manufacturers have
come out with guns and accessories aimed at the female gun owner.
Smith & Wesson have a line of revolvers called "Ladysmith". There are
handbags with integral holsters and of course holsters made for thigh
mounting under a skirt.


	One of the leaders in training women is Paxton Quigley. She
gives a one day course on gun use, threat avoidance and safety.
Her course costs $100.00 plus range fees. If you don't have a pistol
for the course, they will issue you a loaner.

	You can contact Paxton Quigley at:

Suite 300
9903 Santa Monica Boulevard
Beverly Hills 
California 90212

Phone (310) 281-1762


	There is a gun magazine aimed at women called "Women and
Guns". It has been highly rated by male and female readers of this
newsgroup. This magazine, besides covering shooting from the womens
perspective, also carries ads from companies making handbags designed
for carrying guns and gun accessories. This magazine also publishes
lists of establishments providing gun courses for women, clothing and
various women's gun, shooting, and hunting organisations.

	It is published by: 

the Second Amendment Foundation 
James Madison Building 
12500 North East Tenth Place 
Bellevue 
Washington 98005. 

Phone: (206) 454-7012. 

Subscription cost is $25.00 per year U.S. $75.00 Overseas. 
For subscriptions call (716) 885-6408. 
Mail subscriptions to: 
P.O. Box 488 
Station C 
Buffalo 
New York State 14209


X. Miscellaneous
   F. The points system of GCA'68

by Larry Cipriani

----------------------------------------------------------------------

		Factoring Criteria for Weapons

Note: The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms reserves the right
to preclude importation of any revolver or pistol which achieves an
apparent qualifying score but does not adhere to the provisions of
section 925(d)(3) of Amended Chapter 44, Title 18, USC.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

PISTOL

Prerequisites

1.  The pistol must have a positive manually operated safety device.
2.  The combined length and height must not be less than 10" with
    the neight (right angle measurement to barrel without magazine
    or extension) being at least 4" and the length being at least 6".

Individual Characteristics			Point value

Overall Length
	For each 1/4" over 6"			1 pt

Frame Construction
	Investment case or forged steel		15
	Investment case or forged HTS alloy	20

Weapon Weight w/Magazine (unloaded)
	Per ounce				1

Caliber
	.22 short and .25 auto			0
	.22 LR and 7.65mm to .380 auto		3
	9mm parabellum and over			10

Safety Features
	Locked breech mechanism			5
	Loaded Chamber Indicator		5
	Grip Safety				3
	Magazine Safety				5
	Firing Pin Block or Lock		10

Miscellaneous Equipment
	External Hammer				2
	Double Action				10
	Drift Adjustable Target Sight		5
	Click Adjustable Target Sight		10
	Target Grips				5
	Target Trigger				2

Qualifying score is 75 points

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Revolver

Prerequisites

1. Must pass safety test.
2. Must have overall frame (with conventional grips) length (not diagonal)
   of 4 1/2" minimum.
3. Must have a barrel length of at least 3"

Individual Characteristics

Barrel Length (Muzzle to Cylinder Face)
	Less than 4"				0
	For each 1/4" over 4"			1/2

Frame Construction
	Investment Cast or Forged Steel		15
	Investment Cast or Forged HTS Alloy	20

Weapon Weight (Unloaded)
	Per ounce				1

Caliber
	.22 short to .25 acp			0
	.22 LR and .30 to .38 S&W		3
	.38 Special				4
	.357 mag and over			5

Miscellaneous Equipment
	Adjustable Target Sights		5
		(drift or click)

	Target Grips				5
	Target Hammer and Target Trigger	5

Safety Test

A Double Action Revolver must have a safety feature which automatically
(or in a Single Action Revolver by manual operation) causes the hammer to
retract to a point where the firing pin does not rest upon the primer of
the cartridge.  The safety device must withstand the impact of a weight
equal to the weight of the revolver dropping from a distance of 36" in a
line parallel to the barrel upon the rear of the hammer supr, a total of
5 times.

Qualifying score is 45 points.

ATF FORM 4590 (7570.5) (10-77) Edition of 5/74 may be used
-- 
Larry Cipriani -- l.v.cipriani@att.com


X. Miscellaneous
   G. Rob's Quick Guide to Getting a Federal Firearms License

by Rob Craton

(Updated 4/14/93 - added footnotes)
(updated 9/30/93 - added footnote, modified step 6)

Rob's Quick Guide to Getting a Federal Firearms License
=======================================================


1)  Call or write your local BATF office and ask them for an application
    for a Federal Firearms License.  While your at it, ask them for the
    "Guide to Federal Firearms Laws" (commonly called the "red book").
    It's full of information you may want to know before applying.

2)  Fill out the application.  You are required to list your place of
    business.  You may use your home, but the portion of the home that
    is used for the business must have hours open to the public.  The
    hours must be listed on the application.(a)

3)  Mail the application and the appropriate fee to the address provided.
    A normal 'dealer' license is $30/3 years.

4)  Wait.  The BATF has 45 days to process the application.(b)

5)  When approved, they'll send you your license and (in a separate package)
    guides and forms.  You must provide your own "bound book" - your record
    of all firearms transactions.

6)  BATF requires the holder of an FFL to be 'engaged in the business.'  I
    realize some people want an FFL for personal use only.  I will neither
    condone nor condemn such activities.  In either case, I would get the
    appropriate business licenses, if any.  If you decide to make ANY sales,
    acquire a state sales tax ID and collect sales tax.  You don't want your
    state Department of Revenue on your case.  In fact, some firearms distri-
    butors won't sell to you unless you have a state tax ID.

7)  KEEP ACCURATE RECORDS!

8)  Obey all federal, state and local laws.(b)


(a)  Hours are not required if applying for a 'Collector of Curios and Relics'
     license.  Also, some have been able to use 'By Appointment Only' in lieu
     of listing actual hours.

     A 'Curios and Relics' license differs from a dealer FFL in that you are
     limited to interstate purchases of firearms that are on the BATF 'Curios
     and Relics' list.  If your primary interest is older military firearms,
     I would take it into consideration - every military handgun, semi-auto
     rifle and bolt action rifle manufactured prior to 1946 is included on
     this list.  Some newer firearms are also on the list, including some
     pieces listed by serial number.

(b)  It seems HCI and the media have made the 'easy availability of FFLs' the
     hot topic this year.  In response, the BATF is now conducting interviews,
     usually by phone, with applicants.  In some cases they are also checking
     to see if you are in compliance with local laws before issuing the
     license.  As a result, processing time has been taking longer than the
     45 day legal limit.

(c)  It has been reported on 4/13/93 that the BATF is now suspending
     some FFLs who do not meet all state and local requirements, such as
     zoning.  If true, this may severely limit the number of FFLs.

I believe the biggest reason people decide not to get an FFL is because of
Step 2.  If you use your house as your place of business, it must be open
to the public within the hours you list.  The BATF can also come into your
house for a records audit within those hours, unannounced.  If they wish,
they may examine the premises without warrant.  Granted, this probably doesn't
happen often, and there are guidelines listed in the red book, but it is
possible.

What are the advantages of an FFL?   You get to purchase items at dealer
cost, and you can make a profit by retailing firearms.  You are also able to
buy guns mail order and across state lines.

If you only make a few purchases a year for yourself, then I wouldn't bother
with it.  If you buy often and want to make sales, take it into consideration.



X. Miscellaneous
   H. What about Kids and Guns?

#So, what do you folks think is is a good age for introducing kids to
#guns? 

As soon as they can physically work the action.

My daughter is now 4 (as of 15 minutes ago!) and was introduced
at about 3 1/2 to the concepts of gun safety.  She is learning to 
check for loaded condition and to never point at anything you 
don't want dead.  My son is 5 1/2.  He first went shooting at
about 5 (and wants to go again!) and started learning gun safety
and handling at about 3.5 as well.

They both get to handle my guns when the gun safe is open (and I'm
supervising and ...) and must display proper protocol at all times
or they are banned from touching guns for the rest of the time the
gun safe is open.  (i.e. zero tolerance for screwups.  Point it
at me once, even in passing, even after check for empty, and it
goes back in the safe and the kid gets to sit in the corner and
watch but not touch...)  They learned Real Fast to always do it
right.  They must ask before picking up any firearm, and they do.

There is a temptation to 'play' with the guns.  Such as walk
to the front door with {safed, checked, empty gun} in hand
and say 'Grab sky bad guy' {Or something like that ... It is
a DarkWing Duck phrase.  You will learn these when you get kids ;-)}

I'm of two minds on this point.  1)  I give them re-emphasis that 
these are Real Guns and NOT FOR PLAY.  2)  As long as they are
displaying correct protocol (i.e. gun pointed at floor/ceiling,
awareness of 'civilians' in the line of fire, etc.) it is just
so darned cute to see them 'clearing the house' that I sometimes
let them get away with it for a couple of minutes before
delivering reminder #1 above and it is the only exception to 
the zero tolerance rule ...  It IS after all, right on the line 
between 'play' and 'practice'.  And they DO remind ME that they 
use toy guns in play and that these are real guns...  And it all 
happens with me within 5 feet of them... watching 'like a hawk'.

Their behaviour with toy guns is noticably different from 
their behaviour with real guns.  They will play cops & robbers
with toy guns and say 'bang bang' and such.  They do not
provide such sound effects with real guns and do not indulge
in any 'play like' activities other than 'clearing the house'.
(The zero tolerance rule had quick effect, I guess...)

I also emphasise the issue of mistaken identity for police 
and they are already aware that pointing a gun, even
a toy gun, at someone could get them shot.  

At the range, it takes special CLOSE monitoring of a child this young
with a gun.  I keep a hand on the piece or within quick grabing 
range (like, at the elbow...) at ALL times and crouch next to 
them during fire.  My son likes a Smith & Wesson Kit Gun best,
which is about the best testimonial for a 'small hand grip' I 
can think of...  My daughter likes one of those belt buckle
sized .22 mini revolvers best, but has yet to fire live rounds.
It takes one adult per child, and constant attention.  Explain
all about it before you go, and practice range protocol in 
the back yard before you go.  We have bow & arrow practice,
so they have gotten quite used to 'calling cease fire' and
'calling commence fire'.

Rifles are just too big and heavy and long for them to hold.

Surprizes:  My son, at 5, could rack the slide on a Tokarev 9mm
semi-auto.  He still can't do a 1911-A1 Colt.  He caught on to
how to remove the magazine from the Tokarev after watching me
do it ONCE.  He then proceeded to pick up the gun, cock the 
hammer, rack the slide, eject the magazine, and pick up a 9mm
round (from a box I had open for inspection) and start to try
to figure out how to put it in the magazine.  We talked a bit....

He showed me that he could put one in the chamber and understood
that it had to go there for the gun to work.  We talked a LONG
bit about why you don't ever put a cartridge into a gun in
the house...  My daughter, at 3 1/2, could 'safe' a mini-revolver,
but still can't cock the hammer, for which she gets her brother
to help.  My son can work the action on a single action revolver
but not a double action.  My daughter can work the action on
a Beretta tip-up barrel semi-auto in .22, but hasn't caught
onto how to put cartridges into the magazine...  

They BOTH like to reload(!) and insist on helping me when I do it 
(which takes tremendous concentration on my part to keep everything 
straight, them safe, the materials safe, the rounds loaded right, 
and generally drives me to a fit of nervousness that you would not
believe.  I let them 'help' for about 10 minutes, then they have
to go 'help mommy' ;-)

Why oh WHY do I let my kids do all this?  Don't I realize that they
are just too young to be handling guns!!!

Well, It's like this.  Kids WILL experiment with things.  Kids WILL
at some time or other get into EVERYTHING.  (I've even found that
one one occasion I forgot to lock the gun safe after one late
night gun cleaning session.  The next morning my son admonished ME
that he had found the gun safe unlocked and was locking it and that I
should be more careful next time!)  So, I figure it is better that
they do the exploration with me at their shoulder rather than with me 
at work, and with me guiding them, rather than on their own.  

After the first session or two, I learned that they were FAR more 
capable than I'd expected and that if they found a gun at age 5 they 
were fully capable of loading it, working the action and shooting it.
I thought it would take a few years longer.  If I'd left them 
ignorant, that would have been a few more years of risk...  

My son now, quite clearly, knows what happens when a gun is loaded.
He has shot tin cans with one.  He has seen the holes.  He has
imagined those holes in himself (at my urging).  He now 'safes'
a gun EVERY TIME it is handed to him.  He will not let another
child point a real gun at him.  Period.  He will not point a 
real gun at another person.  Period.  He knows a real from a 
toy gun.  My daughter is close behind him, but has not had
the experience of shooting a real gun.  They are far safer
than if I'd gone along saying "don't touch daddy's guns" and
believing that they were not capable of getting one to firing 
condition....  

They are not 'forbidden fruit', they are things that demand 
respect and can be handled IFF handled correctly.  I sleep
better at night now...

I'm sure there will be dozens of other opinions, but this is one
persons experience.  Each kid will be unique.  Each home unique.
I got a BB gun at 7 and didn't get a real gun until I was about 10
(when I got a .22 LR rifle).  That worked for me, but my Dad had
fewer guns than I do ;-)  Watch your kids.  Adjust to them, their
interests and abilities.  Be aware that there are far more
capable of getting a gun ready to fire than you would expect.  They
pick up a lot from watching you and watching fire drills on TV ...


-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.



XI. Miscellaneous
    I. Literature List
       1. Book Reviews by Henry Schaffer

  This is a list of most all of the book reviews I've posted.  The
reviews are available in a number of archives and from me by mail 
request.  I've been asked to post this list.  (The books are listed
below in order according to my personal mnemonic filing system. :-)

--henry schaffer

The Accurate Rifle Warren Page 1973 
Armed & Female Paxton Quigley 1990
Blue Book of Gun Values  S. P. Fjestad
Business Partners:  The Best Pistol/Ammunition Combinations for Personal 
  Defense Peter Alan Kasler 1991
The Gun Digest Book of COMBAT HANDGUNNERY  2nd ed A Guide to Self-Defense 
  Shooting by Chuck Karwan  (edited by Jack Lewis)  1989  
The Gun Digest Book of COMBAT HANDGUNNERY  3rd ed A Guide to Self-Defense 
  Shooting by Chuck Karwan  (edited by Jack Lewis)  1992  
Cartridges of the World  (6th ed) Frank C. Barnes (Ed. Ken Warner) 1989  
1993 Catalog No. 142 from Dixie Gun Works, Inc.
GLOCK The New Wave in Combat Handguns Peter Alan Kasler 1992
LEARN GUNSMITHING The Troubleshooting Method Editors of American Gunsmith 
  (Traister, John E.?) 1992
Clyde Baker's MODERN GUNSMITHING A revision of the classic by John E. 
  Traister Copyright 1933, Revised 1981
Gunsmithing With Simple Hand Tools: How to Repair, Improve and Add a Touch 
  of Class to the Guns You Own: A Basic Manual for the Advanced Amateur on 
  Use of Hand Tools for Minor Alterations, Improvements, and 
  Reconstruction of Firearms A. (Andrew) D. Dubino 1987
HANDLOADER'S DIGEST  12th ed.  Edited by Ken Warner 1990 
HATCHER'S NOTEBOOK   Third edition Julian S. Hatcher 1962  
HOMEMADE GUNS AND HOMEMADE AMMO Ronald B. Brown 1986 
Firearms and Violence edited by Don B. Kates, Jr. 1984
Bob Brownell's GUNSMITH KINKS   2 vols.  (3rd vol in press)
KNIVES '93  (13th Annual Edition) Edited by Ken Warner
Levine's Guide to Knives and Their Values, 2nd ed.  The Complete Handbook 
  of Knife Collecting All the Basic Tools for Identifying, Valuing and 
  Collecting Folding and Fixed Blade Knives Bernard Levine 1989
The Making of Tools Alexander G. Weygers 1973  
Metallic Cartridge Reloading The Complete How and Why of Centerfire 
  Cartridge Reloading 2nd Edition Edward A. Matunas 1988  
The Gun Digest Book of Metallic Silhouette Shooting 2nd ed Elgin Gates 1988  
Modern Law Enforcement Weapons & Tactics Wiley M. Clapp  1987  
MODERN LAW ENFORCEMENT WEAPONS & TACTICS 2nd ed.  Tom Ferguson (Edited by 
  Jack Lewis) 1991  
Myths about Gun Control Morgan O. Reynolds, W. W. Caruth III 1992
NRA Firearms FACT BOOK  Third Ed.  1989 
The S&W Revolver A Shop Manual Jerry Kuhnhausen 1990 
Pistolsmithing George C. Nonte, Jr. 1974
The Gun Digest Book of PISTOLSMITHING The Art and Science of Handgun 
  Gunsmithing Jack Mitchell 1980  
Precision Handloading John Withers 1985 
Propellant Profiles, Third Edition 1991  
The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening John Juranitch 1985  
The Ultimate in Rifle Accuracy: Getting the Most Out of Your Equipment 
  and Yourself: A handbook for those who seek the ultimate in rifle 
  accuracy; whether it be for competition, testing or hunting.  Glenn 
  Newick 1989
The Gun Digest Book of RIFLESMITHING The Art and Science of Rifle 
  Gunsmithing Jack Mitchell 1982
The Semiautomatic Pistol in Police Service and Self Defense Massad F. 
  Ayoob 1987  
Small Arms of the World, 12th revised edition A Basic Manual of Small 
  Arms Edward Clinton Ezell 1983 
Shape and Flow: The Fluid Dynamics of Drag Ascher H. Shapiro  1961
Shotgunning: The Art and the Science Bob Brister 1976
Precision Reloading Handbook, 8th ed.  Sinclair International Inc.  
THE SLING For Sport & Survival Cliff Savage 1984
MARINE SNIPER: 93 Confirmed Kills Charles Henderson 1986
Street Survival: Tactics for Armed Encounters Ronald J. Adams, 
  Thomas M. JcTernan and Charles Remsberg 1980
Tactical Edge: Surviving High-Risk Patrol Charles Remsberg
--












XI. Contact Information
    A. Gun Rights Organizations
       1. NRA

by Ralph Palmer.

The following list of NRA phone numbers is a combination derived
from the phone numbers listed near the back of the NRA-ILA 1993
CONSERVATION CALENDAR and the NRA Membership Card.


		  NATIONAL RIFLE ASSOCATION
		1600 Rhode Island Avenue, N.W.
		     Washington, DC 20036
		        (202) 828-6000

American Hunter Magazine.............................(703) 481-3362
American Rifleman Magazine...........................(703) 481-3363
Clubs & Associations.................................(202) 828-6140
Competitions Division................................(202) 828-6153
Director of Civilian Marksmanship (US Govt agency)...(202) 272-0810
Education & Training Division........................(202) 828-6281
Field Services Division..............................(202) 828-6140
General Counsel......................................(202) 828-6300
Hunter Services Division.............................(202) 828-6246
InSights Magazine....................................(202) 828-6075
Insurance (Life/Health)..............................(800) 247-7989
Insurance (Property/Liability).......................(800) 544-9820
Law Enforcement Activities...........................(202) 828-6294
Membership Division..................................(800) 368-5714
National Firearms Museum.............................(202) 828-6253
Public Relations.....................................(202) 828-6326
Publications.........................................(703) 481-3340
Range Development....................................(202) 828-6190
Range Services.......................................(202) 828-6192
Sales Department.....................................(800) 336-7402
Shooting Sports USA..................................(202) 828-6252
US Olympic Shooting Center...........................(719) 578-4670
Whittington Center...................................(505) 445-3615
Women's Issues & Information.........................(202) 828-6224

**To limit mailings to magazine and renewals.........(800) 643-4672**

(This latter part is by Jonathan Spencer)

By popular request, here are the addresses for the British National
Rifle Association and the National Pistol Association.

NRA, Bisley Camp, Brookwood, Woking, Surrey, GU24 0PB, England
Tel: inland   0483 797 777
     int'l  +44483 797 777
Fax: inland   0483 797 285
     int'l  +44483 797 285

NPA, 21 The Letchworth Gate Centre, Protea Way, Pixmore Ave, Letchworth,
Hertfordshire, SG6 1JT, England
Tel: inland   0462 679 887
     int'l  +44462 679 887
Fax: inland   0462 481 183
     int'l  +44462 481 183

XI. Contact Information
    A. Gun Rights Organizations
       2. ILA

               INSTITUTE FOR LEGISLATIVE ACTION
Communications Office................................(202) 828-6313
Federal Affairs......................................(202) 828-6387
Fiscal Office........................................(202) 828-6067
Governmental Information Services....................(202) 828-6330
Law Enforcement Relations............................(202) 828-6342
Legislative Counsel..................................(202) 828-6327
NRAction.............................................(202) 828-6326
Research & Information...............................(202) 828-6330 & 6331
Speakers Bureau......................................(202) 828-6361
State & Local Affairs................................(202) 828-6372

For info re: state and local firearms legis. or political preference
charts contact:

 AREA 1: AZ, CO, DC, MD, NM, NV, OK, TX
         Jim Milner
         (202) 828-6309

 AREA 2: DE, IN, MI, NH, OH, PR, VA, WV, VI
         Chuck Cunningham
         (202) 828-6377

 AREA 3: AR, IA, IL, MN, MO, TN, WI
         Jim Hayes
         (202) 828-6375

 AREA 4: PA
         Scott Krug
         (814) 234-2222

 AREA 5: AK, AL, GA, LA, MS, ND, SD, UT
         Jeff Rabon
         (202) 828-6366

 AREA 6: CT, ME, MA, NY, RI, VT
         Sue Misiora
         (518) 427-5994

 AREA 7: AS, CA, GU, HI
         Brian Judy
         (916) 446-2455

 AREA 8: FL, ID, MT, NE, OR, WA, WY
         Jack Lensi
         (202) 828-6309

 AREA 9: KS, KY, NC, NJ, SC
         Jeff Freeman
         (202) 828-6378


XI. Contact Information
    A. Gun Rights Organizations
       3. Other Gun Rights Organizations

By Peter Nesbitt
 
If any of these are incorrect, or no longer in existance, please let me know.

Also, if you know of other City, State, or National Gun Organizations that
are not included in this list, please let me know.


Peter D. Nesbitt
pnesbitt@mcimail.com

******************************************************************************

American Citizens and Lawmen Association on Crime Prevention (ACLACP)
P.O. Box 8712
Phoenix, AZ 85066
602-243-5928
 
American Pistol and Rifle Association (APRA)
 
Arizona Constitutional Rights Committee (ACRC)
P.O. Box 84151
Phoenix, AZ 85071-4151
602-942-9181
 
Arizona State Rifle and Pistol Association (ASRP)
P.O. Box 40962
Mesa, AZ 85274-0962
 

Bay Area Professionals for Firearms Safety and Education (BAPROFS)
101 First Street, Suite 131
Los Altos, CA 94022
408-865-1720
 
California Rifle & Pistol Association, Inc. (CRPA)
12062 Valley View St., Suite 107
Garden Grove, CA 92645
 
Citizens Against Tyranny (CAT)
111 E. Drake #7091
Fort Collins, CO 80525
 
Citizen's Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear Arms (CCRKBA)
Liberty Park
12500 N.E. Tenth Place
Bellevue, WA 98005
206-454-4911
 
Citizen's Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear Arms (CCRKBA)
California Office
926 J. Street, Suite 216
Sacramento, CA 95814
916-446-9808
916-446-2270 fax
 
Citizens For a Better Stockton (CBS)
Stockton, CA
 
Citizens For Safe Government (CSG)
Atlanta, GA
 
Citizens Safety Committee, Multnomah County, Political Action Committee
P.O. Box 19448
Portland, OR 97219
503-283-4368
 
Coalition for American Liberty (CAL)
c/o Watergun
685 Washington Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139
305-531-3110
 
Coalition of New Jersey Sportsmen (CNJS)
P.O. Box 423
Oakhurst, NJ 07753
201-389-3355
 
Firearms Coalition (FC)
P.O. Box 6537
Silver Spring, MD 20906
301-871-3006
 
Firearms Education Institute (FEI)
P.O. Box 2193
El Segundo, CA  90245
213-322-7244
213-546-3032 BBS
 
Gun Owners Action League (GOAL)
Massachusetts
 
Gun Owners of America, Inc. (GOA)
8001 Forbes Place, Suite 102
Springfield, VA 22151
703-321-8585
 
Gun Owners of California (GOC)
3440 Viking Dr.
Suite 106
Sacramento, CA 95827
916-361-3109
 
Gun Owners Foundation (GOF)
c/o Gun Owners of America
8001 Forbes Place, Suite 102
Springfield, VA  22151
703-321-8585
 
Gun Owners REACT Committee
Anaheim, CA   92806
714-956-2439
 
Hoosier Volunteers
Indiana
 
Jews for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership (JPFO)
2872 South Wentworth Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53207
414-769-0760
 
Law Enforcement for the Preservation of the Second Amendment (LEPSA)
P.O. Box 999
Waterford, NJ 98089
609-629-8724
 
National Association of Gun and Knife Shows (NAGKS)
Route 13 Box 5
Cumming, GA 30130
800-346-2641
404-887-1343
    
National Firearms Association (NFA)
P.O. Box 160038
Austin, TX 78716-0038
 
Neal Knox Associates
P.O. Box 6537
Silver Spring, MD 20916
 
National Rifle Association (NRA)
1600 Rhode Island Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20036-3268
(202) 828-6000
800-368-5714 
800-637-8465
 
NRA Firearms Civil Rights Legal Defense Fund (NRA/LDF)
1230 16th Street NW
Washington, D.C. 20036
 
NRA Institute for Legislative Action (NRA/ILA)
P.O. Box 1730
Washington, D.C. 20077-4621
(202) 828-6330 Washington, D.C.
(916) 446-2455 Sacramento, CA
 
NRA Institute for Legislative Action Operation Golden Bear
P.O. Box 3079
Costa Mesa, CA 92628-3079
1-800-IM-4-GUNS (464-4867)
 
NorCal LEPSA
2185 The Alameda #3
San Jose, CA 95126
408-947-7678 Fax
408-947-7800 BBS
 
North Texas Arms Rights Coalition (NTARC)
P.O. Box 28186
Dallas, TX 75228-0186
214-270-4068
 
Ohio Constitutional Defense League (OCDL)
Ohio
 
People's Rights Organization (PRO)
P.O. Box 2652
Columbus, OH 43216
614-445-8102
 
Second Amendment Foundation (SAF)
James Madison Building
12500 NE Tenth Place
Bellevue, WA 98005
206-454-7012
 
Texas State Rifle Association (TSRA)
P.O. Box 710549
Dallas, TX 75371
214-369-8772
 
Threat Management Institute (TMI)
800 West Napa St.
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-939-0303
707-939-8684 fax
707-935-1713 BBS
    
United Coalition for Freedom (UCF)
531 Main St. Suite 434
El Segundo CA 90245-3060
213-322-7244
213-546-3032 BBS
 
United Coalition of Florida Sportsmen (UCFS)
Florida
 

XI. Contact Information
    B. Mail Order Guns & Gun Supplies


Last posted rec.guns 10/93

This is a list I pulled off of the net and have updated from time to
time.  I make *no* guarantees on the accuracy of this list.  The names
listed have either been suggested to me or places that I've dug up from
other sources.  I have no commercial interest in any of these places and
urge caution in dealing with any mail order outlet.  Please let me know of
any additions, deletions or corrections needed.  I do *not* want to track
the performance of each vendor in this file for both administrative and
legal reasons.  Vendor complaints should be posted to rec.guns
--------------------------------------------------------------

You need an FFL license to mail order firearms, except for black powder
and air guns.  You can mail order ammo, but you have to fill out a special
form for Pistol ammo.  Get a hold of a copy of Shotgun News.  It has adds for
all kinds of mail order gun stuff.  You can get a subscription for $20
a year.  You get an issue 3 times a month usually on the 1st, 10th, and
20th. Here is their address:

Shotgun News (This is the book your gun dealer doesn't want you to read)
PO Box 669
Hastings, NE 68902
(800)345-6923, (402)463-4589, FAX:(402)463-3893

Here are some other vendors for gun and reloading supplies as well as bulk
and reloaded ammo.  Most of these will send you a free catalog if you call
the 800 number.  

Adventurer's Outpost
PO BOX 70, DEPT GM
Cottonwood, AZ 86326
(800)762-7471, (602)639-0072, FAX:(602)634-8781
Suppliers of assault accessories for shotguns including grips, slings,
flashlight mounts and ammo holders, folding stocks and lasers

Beikirch's 
(716)248-3660
Beikirch's is a rather large (and low priced) ammunition & reloading supply
depot with it's own fleet of trucks (really!). The catch?  You have to
order a minimum of $1000 worth of stuff to get them to make a stop with
their truck.  Get your club together, Northeastern region only.

Blammo Ammo (got to love that name)
PO Box 1677 
Seneca, SC 29679
(803)882-1768, FAX:(803)882-5293
Purveyors of politically incorrect pistol and shotgun ammo including
exploding, tracer, and fleshette rounds and the flame throwing "Dragons
Breath" 

Bottom Line Shooting Supplies (was Atlanta Discount Ammo)
P.O. Box 258
Clarkesville, GA 30523
(706)754-9000, FAX:(706)754-7263
ammo

Brownells 
200 South Front St
Montezuma, Iowa 50171
(515)623-5401, FAX:(515)623-3896
(They charge $4 for the catalogue and give a $4 credit, unless you can 
convince them you are a dealer, then it is free)
THE supply catalogue for gunsmithing tools and supplies is Brownell's.
If they don't have it then nobody does.  They also offer a wide range of
accessories and everything you'll need for your 45.  They have a dual
pricing policy, giving the discount price to FFL holders and "dealers".  
People have had mixed results getting the dealer prices by claiming to be a
machinest or a dealer in everything but guns.  The "hidden" dealer price
can be easily decoded as follows:
ITEM: Foo Bar Grips		an9xx20dd	PRICE $19.95
The dealer price is 9.20, the average person pays $19.95

Bull-X Inc
520 North Main
Farmer City, IL 61842
(800)248-3845, (309)928-2574
Hard cast match bullets, reloading components, reloaded ammo and targets

Butte Casting Co., Inc.
7 Coates St.
Crawford, NE 69339
(800)738-4445
Cast bullets in a variety of weights and shapes.  Credit cards taken and
volume discounts offered

Cape Outfitters 
Route 2, Box 437C
Cape Girardeau, MO 63701
(314)335-6260
Cape Outfitters sells antique/unusual/rare shotguns and rifles on consignment.
They also sell barrels and wood for old browning shotguns and pre 64 Win 70's

Cascade Ammunition Company
2765 West Jay Ave
Roseburg, OR 97470
(800)858-AMMO
reloaded and surplus ammo
 
Century International Arms Inc. 
P.O. Box 714
St. Albans, VT 05478
orders:(800)258-8899,(802)527-1252, FAX:(802)527-0470
Compuserve: 76260.115.CompuServe.COM (it works, I've tried it)
They are a premier importer of surplus firearms/ammunition. While not the 
cheapest, they are among the best.

Champion's Choice, Inc.
223 Space Park South
Nashville, TN 37211
(615)834-6666
$3 for catalog, Shooting Supplies & Equipment esp. for competition

Charlies Militaria 
2117 S. Air Depo Rd
Midwest City, OK 73110
(800)654-4795, (405)733-4913, FAX:(405)732-0649
Army Surplus, both US and Foreign, web gear, military gun parts

Cheap Shots Inc. 
294 Route 980
Cononsburg, PA 15317
(412)745-2658
ammo

Centerfire Systems 
102 Fieldview Drive
Versailles, KY 40383
(800)950-1231, (606)873-2352
They sell SKS's and accessories, bulk ammo, misc supplies

Clearwater Trading Co. 
Jim Rawles, Proprietor
P.O. Box 2289
Orofino, ID 83544 USA
(208)476-4440   
1000's of rifle and pistol magazines, web gear, Customers can call 8 a.m.
to 8 pm., Monday through Saturday. Cash or postal money orders only.

Cobray 
PO Box 813218
Smyma, GA 30081
(800)526-2729, (800)5-COBRAY, (404)355-3993, FAX:(404)350-9714
Cobray M-9, M-11 Flat kits assault accessories, kits, magazines and more

Compasseco, Inc
151-AR Atkinson Hill
Bardstown, KY 40004
(502)349-0181
Chinese TS-45 air rifles, $40

Competition Specialties 
PO Box 451-B
Osceola, Iowa 50213
(800)369-4481, (515)342-2011
Good quality low cost lead bullets, free shipping

CP Bullets
(215)956-9595
bullets and IPSC targets 

Delta Press Ltd. (same address also for Desert Publications)
PO BOX 1625 Dept. 93FS
215 S. Washington St.
El Dorado, AR 71731
(800)852-4445, (501)862-4984, FAX:(501)862-9671
Celebrants of the first amendment offering books on bomb making, firearm
modifications including the popular "Full Auto" series and a variety of
military manuals including AR15, 1911, and Beretta M9 (92FS).

Dillon Precision Products 
7442 E. Butherus Drive
Scottsdale, AZ 85260-2415
(800)223-4570 (get it?), (602)948-8009
The best reloading presses, reloading supplies, IPSC gear and gadgets
30 day money back guarantee, lifetime warranty

Firearms and Supplies
514 Quincy Street
Hancock, MI 49930
(800)338-7977, (906)482-1685, FAX:(906)482-3822
discount prices on Beeman, RWS, and other airguns

Gander Mountain 
PO Box 248                                  
Wilmot, WI 53192-0248
(800)558-9410, no non (800) number, FAX:(414)862-2877
Reloading supplies, Black powder, hunting, camping, fishing, shipping and 
handling are extra

Global Sales
1091 Airport Rd
Minden, NV 89423
(702)782-4400, FAX:(702)782-2613
Sten kits, M-16 parts, mags, conversion videos and parts

Graf & Sons, Inc.
Hwy. 54 South
Route 3	 Box 108
Mexico, MO 65265
Orders:(800)531-2666,(314)581-2266, FAX:(314)581-2875
Firearms, reloading equipment and accessories from various manufacturers.
The current 1993 catalog is approximately 90 pages.

Guardian 
22444 North 19th Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85027
(800)527-4434, (602)582-1070
Stun guns, pepper gas, books on self defense, etc

Gun Parts Corporation (formally Numrich Arms)
PO BOX AR07
West Hurley, NY 12491
(914)679-2417, FAX:(914)679-5849
Featuring 350 million gun parts, the self proclaimed world's largest
supplier.  The catalogue is $6 and is a great reference book

Gunsmoke Reloading. 
(818)969-8009, (818)969-1806, (818)967-6768 
ammo

J & G Sales 
(602)445-9650 
ammo

Lock, Stock, & Barrel Shooting Supply
West Highway 20, Drawer B
Valentine, Nebraska 69201
(800)228-7925, (402)376-2203, FAX:(402)376-1442

LEM Gun Specialties, Inc
PO BOX 87031
College Park, GA 30337
Makers of the Lewis Lead Remover, the best way to mechanically remove lead
from the barrel.  Cost $11.75 + $2 S/H, brass patches, .38-.41 and .44-.45 
$2.30 for a pack of 10.   (price as of 9/93)

L.L. Baston Company, Inc
PO BOX 1995 
Dept GA
Eldorado, AR 71731
(800)643-1564
Colt parts distributor, AR parts, stocks, mags and accessories, catalogue
$3. 

MidSouth Shooters Supply Co.
1925 North Highway 92
New Market, TN 37820
(615)475-4783  
send $2 for a catalog (they mean it), minimum order $40.  A bit old
fashioned in their business practices, but very good prices

Midway Arms 
5875-L W. Van Horn Tavern Rd.
Columbia, MO 65203
(800)243-3220, (314)445-6363
reloading supplies, accessories, ammo  free shipping w/purchase >$40
good prices and service.  They have a monthly catalogue with great specials.

Nachez Shooters Supply 
PO Box 22247
Chattanooga, TN 37422
(800)251-7839
guns, ammo and supplies.  Catalog $4.50, free with order

Northeast Shooters Warehouse 
15 Vreeland Street
PO Box 898
East Longmeadow, MA 01028
(800)639-7012, (413)737-0253
A large no frills catalogue, filled with new and surplus ammo, reloading
and cleaning supplies, grips, mags and more.  Free shipping, monthly updates. 

O.K. Weber
PO BOX 7485 
Eugene, OR 97401 
(503) 747-0458
They are a small shop specializing in rifle competition gear, like
for DCM tournaments.  Send 'em a buck and they'll send you their catalog.

Old Western Scrounger
Dangerous Dave Campbell, Proprietor
Montague, CA
(916)459-5445
Interesting military surplus and shooting paraphernalia, reloading supplies
and tools, importers of RWS ammo and primers.

Omar's Ammo 
Omar Kateeb 
(817)831-6602 (ammo)

Palidin Press
PO BOX 1307
Boulder, CO 80306
(800)872-4993, (303)443-7250, FAX:(303)442-8741
Politically incorrect books, military manuals

Police Bookshelf (Run by Massad Ayood and LFI)
PO BOX 122
Concord, NH 03302-0122
(800)624-9049, (603)224-6814, FAX:(603)226-3554
Books and videos on self defense, holsters, pepper mace and defensive ammo

Ponderosa Products 
PO BOX 1016
Eagle, ID 83616
(208)939-1513
AR-15/M-16 clips $8 ea new, $6 ea used, they take VISA over the phone.

Quality Parts (AKA Bushmaster Firearms)
PO Box 1479
Windham, ME 04062
(800)998-SWAT, (207)892-2005, FAX:(207)892-8068 
M16's AR15's and AR, AK and HK, Mini 14 &30 and 10/22 goodies

Ron Shirk's Shooters Supplies 
R.D. 2 Box 1775 
Lebanon, PA 17042
(717)272-5671 

Sinclair International, Inc.
2330 Wayne Haven St.
Fort Wayne, Indiana 46803
(219)493-1858
excellent source for precision reloading/shooting

Southern Ohio Gun 
PO BOX 590
100 S Mechanic St 
Lebanon, OH 45036
(800)944-4867, (513)932-8148
bulk ammo, military calibers, 7.62x39 for about $90 per 1200!

Spartan Supply Co. 
PO Box 310
Hixton, TN 37343
(800)251-3904, (615)899-5742 
guns, ammo, supplies, catalog $4.50, free with order

The Sportsman's Guide
411 Farwell Avenue
So. St. Paul, MN  55070
(800)888-3006, Customer service:(800)888-5222, FAX:(800)333-6933
7am-7pm Central, Mon-Sat

Tapco    
PO Box 818
Smyrna, GA 30081
(800)359-6195, (404)435-9782
SKS AK, and AR parts and accessories, shotgun flashette rounds

Tom Forest Inc.
PO BOX 326 
Lakeside, CA 92040
(619)561-5800, FAX:(619)561-0227
magazines and Colt 1911 parts

T&T Reloading, Inc.    
Route #2 Box 147
Easton, PA 18042
(215)759-1449
ss109 bullets $36/1000

U. S. Cavalry
2855 Centennial Ave
Radcliff, KY 40160-9000
(800)777-7732, (502)351-1164, FAX:(502)352-0266
Catalogue of surplus military high tech and other pseudo spy stuff

USA Magazines
PO BOX 39115
Downey, CA 90241
(800)USA-CLPS
aftermarket mags

U.S.G. Technologies
(800)445-3300 FAX:(415)871-0713
Eastern Block night vision, other optical equipment

Western Surplus 						
(213)772-3033

Wideners Reloading and Shooting Supply, Inc.
PO Box 3009 CRS
Johnson City, TN 37602-3009 
(615)282-6786, FAX:(615)282-6651

Wilson's
Route 3, PO BOX 578
Berryville, AR 72616
(501)545-3618 FAX:(501)545-3310
Custom Pistolsmiths and accessories for you 1911

W. C. Wolf Co. Gunspring makers
PO BOX 1
Newtown Square, PA 19073-0458
(800)545-0077, (215)359-9600, FAX:(215)359-9496
Makers of gun springs and gun spring kits for you every needs.  Lots of
1911 gun spring stuff

Yankee Arms, Inc.
Fred Wilson
PO BOX 44
West Medford, MA 02156
(617)396-9321
high quality cast bullets, great prices especially if you don't need
shipping 

-------------------------------------------------------------
AR-15 specific mail order places:
Here is a list of names and numbers. Call them for catalogues. Not all
advertise in The Shotgun News.
Company:     		Lower Receivers?     Phone number
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Amherst Arms			??	(301)829-9544
Eagle Arms			Yes	(308)799-5619
Essential Arms Co 		Yes	(318)566-2230
Gun Parts (Numrich Arms)	No	(914)679-2417
L&G Weopanry 			??	(714)840-3772
Lone Star			??	(512)681-9280 (800)482-3733
L.L. Baston			Yes	(501)863-5659 (800)643-1564
Nesard 				??	(708)381-7629 (404)435-9782
Olympic Arms			Yes	(206)459-7970
Pac West Arms			Yes	(206)438-3983
Quality Parts			Yes	(207)892-2005 (800)556-7928
Rock Island			??	(309)944-5739
Sherwood International		??	(818)349-7600 (800)423-5237
Tapco    			Yes     (404)435-9782 (800)359-6195

	Some of these people have complete sets of parts, some just
sell bits and pieces. 


XI. Contact Information
    C. Internet Firearms FTP Sites

by Christian J. van den Branden Lambrecht and Seth Eliot

128.146.8.52    archive.cis.ohio-state.edu for postscript targets and
128.130.39.16   ftp.vmars.tuwien.ac.at gun for laws in various countries.
godiva.nectar.cs.cmu.edu:/usr0/anon/pub/firearms/politics/rkba: RKBA Archives

For a email server for RKBA information, send email to
listserv@mainstream.com with the phrase "get rkba index" as the
body of the message.


XI. Contact Information
    D. Firearms Schools

by Ray Terry


XI. Contact Information
    E. Literature Reviews Available at flubber.cs.umd.edu

by Henry Schaffer, hes@unity.ncsu.edu
  
  A brief Index to filenames

  accurate-rifle  Review of The Accurate Rifle by Warren Page - one of the
  classic books about benchrest and other *accurate* rifles

  adventures-in-reloading - My essay on how I got started in
  reloading and what I've done.  Much practical discussion.

  am-gunsmith  Review of American Gunsmith The Technical Journal of Firearms
  Repair and Maintenance -  Monthly.

  armed-female - Review of Armed & Female by Paxton Quigley

  assembly  Review of The Gun Digest Book of FIREARMS ASSEMBLY/DISASSEMBLY
  Part 1: Automatic Pistols, Revised Edition

  bluebook Review of Blue Book of Gun Values  14th ed. by S. P. Fjestad

  business-partners  Review of Business Partners (Subtitle) The Best
  Pistol/Ammunition Combinations for Personal Defense by Peter Alan Kasler

  combhndgun  - Review of The Gun Digest Book of COMBAT HANDGUNNERY  2nd ed
  A Guide to Self-Defense Shooting by Chuck Karwan  (edited by Jack Lewis)

  combhndgun3  Review of The Gun Digest Book of COMBAT HANDGUNNERY  3rd ed
  A Guide to Self-Defense Shooting by Chuck Karwan  (edited by Jack Lewis)

  cotw - Review of Cartridges of the World  (6th ed)
  by Frank C. Barnes (Edited by Ken Warner)

  glock  Review of GLOCK The New Wave in Combat Handguns by Peter Alan Kasler

  gold-bk - extremely brief review of Shooting for GOLD by
  William Krilling

  gunsmith-learn Review of LEARN GUNSMITHING The Troubleshooting Method
  by the Editors of American Gunsmith (Traister, John E.?) 1992
  A.G. Media Inc.

  gunsmith-modern Review of Clyde Baker's MODERN GUNSMITHING A revision of
  the classic by John E. Traister Copyright 1933, Revised 1981

  gunsmith-simple  Review of Gunsmithing With Simple Hand Tools
  by  A. (Andrew) D. Dubino

  guntests - Review of the magazine GUN TESTS

  handloader  Review of the magazine Handloader Wolfe Publishing Co.

  handloadersdigest Review of HANDLOADER'S DIGEST  12th ed.  Edited by
  Ken Warner

  hatcher  Review of HATCHER'S NOTEBOOK   Third edition
  by Julian S. Hatcher

  homemade Review of HOMEMADE GUNS AND HOMEMADE AMMO by Ronald B. Brown

  hotw Review of Handguns of the World  Military Revolvers and Self-Loaders
  from 1870 to 1945 by Edward C. Ezell

  katesbk  Review of "Firearms and Violence" edited by Don B. Kates, Jr.,
  foreword by John Kaplan  1984

  knives93  Review of KNIVES '93  (13th Annual Ed.) Edited by Ken Warner

  kinks - Review of Bob Brownell's GUNSMITH KINKS  and short
  discussion of Brownells, Inc.

  levine  Review of Levine's Guide to Knives and Their Values, 2nd ed.
  by Bernard Levine The Complete Handbook of Knife Collecting
  All the Basic Tools for Identifying, Valuing and Collecting Folding
  and Fixed Blade Knives  1989

  machinegunmagic  Review of Machine Gun Magic - a VHS video tape
  Dillon Productions

  makingtools  Review of The Making of Tools by Alexander G. Weygers
  Prentice Hall Press 1973

  manuals - Short reviews of a variety of reloading
  manuals.  Anyone interested in reloading should read a least a
  couple of these manuals.

  mcr  - Review of Metallic Cartridge Reloading 2nd ed.
  by Edward A. Matunas

  metallic-silhouette  Review of The Gun Digest Book of Metallic Silhouette
  Shooting 2nd ed Elgin Gates 1988

  mlewt  Review of Modern Law Enforcement Weapons & Tactics by Wiley M.
  Clapp 1987

  mlewt2 Review of MODERN LAW ENFORCEMENT WEAPONS & TACTICS All New 2nd ed.
  Tom Ferguson (Edited by Jack Lewis) 1991

  myths Review of Myths about Gun Control by  Morgan O. Reynolds and
  W. W. Caruth III NCPA Policy Report No. 176, December 1992

  nra-sug Review of National Rifle Association   Money, Firepower & Fear
  Josh Sugarmann 1992

  nrafact Review of NRA Firearms FACT BOOK  Third Ed.  1989

  pistol-shooters-treas Review of The Pistol Shooter's Treasury  2nd ed.
  Edited and Published by Gil Hebard

  pistolsmith-cov  Introduction to the reviews of three books
  on pistolsmithing which complement each other very well.

  pistolsmith-k - Review of The S&W Revolver A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen

  pistolsmith-n - Review of Pistolsmithing by Geoge C. Nonte, Jr.

  pistolsmith - Review of The Gun Digest Book of PISTOLSMITHING
  The Art and Science of Handgun Gunsmithing by Jack Mitchell

  pointblank  Review of POINT BLANK Guns and Violence in America
  Gary Kleck  1991

  pointofimpact  Review of Point of Impact by  Stephen Hunter 1993
  (fiction)

  prec-handload  - Review of Precision Handloading by John Withers

  precision-shooting-ann Review of The 1992 Precision Shooting Annual
  (Volumes I and II) Authored by the columnists and contributing writers of
  Precision Shooting magazine.  Edited by Dave Brennan

  precision-shooting-best Review of The Best of Precision Shooting Vol. I,
  Vol. II

  propell-profile  Review of Propellant Profiles, Third Edition
  from the Handloader Magazine 1966-1990 1991

  razorsharp Review of The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch
  1985

  rifle-accuracy Review of The Ultimate in Rifle Accuracy by Glenn Newick
  Getting the Most Out of Your Equipment and Yourself  1989

  riflesmithing Review of The Gun Digest Book of RIFLESMITHING
  The Art and Science of Rifle Gunsmithing by Jack Mitchell 1982

  sa-pistol  Review of The Semiautomatic Pistol in Police Service and Self
  Defense by Massad F. Ayoob  1987

  saotw Review of Small Arms of the World, 12th revised edition
  A Basic Manual of Small Arms by  Edward Clinton Ezell (with the
  research assistance of Thomas M. Pegg) A Completely new and revised
  version of the classic work by W. H. B.  Smith.  1983 (reprinted 1990)

  shape-flow Review of Shape and Flow The Fluid Dynamics of Drag by
  Ascher H. Shapiro  1961

  sling Review of THE SLING For Sport & Survival by Cliff Savage  1984

  sniper Review of  MARINE SNIPER  93 Confirmed Kills by Charles Henderson
  1986  (biography of Carlos Hathcock)

  street-survival  Review of Street Survival - Tactics for Armed Encounters
  by Special Agent Ronald J. Adams, Lieutenant Thomas M. McTernan
  and Charles Remsberg 1980  (police textbook)

  shotgunning  - Review of "Shotgunning"  (The Art and the Science)
  by Bob Brister

  tactical-edge Review of The Tactical Edge - Surviving High-Risk Patrol
  by Charles Remsberg (police text)

  tkba Review of TO KEEP AND BEAR ARMS by Bill R. Davidson 1969

  ult-sniper Review of The Ultimate Sniper -  An Advanced Training Manual
  for Military & Police Snipersby  Maj. John L. Plaster, USAR (Ret.) 1993

  women-guns Review of magazine Women & Guns


- End of segment four/four of the rec.guns FAQ -




