Article: 87525 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 1/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.060120.26499@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:01:20 GMT
Lines: 50

       This is the revised version of the Weapons Caching Series
posted on the Internet about i month ago. This version incorporates
many changes, and contains many of the comments received from those
who looked at the original set of postings. The previouus version is
now obsolete, and should be discarded.

       There are seven parts to this series: 
1. This initial post, 1/7
2. The Introduction, 2/7
3. Equipment List, Instructions for Assembly of Kit, and Assembly of Cache 3/7
4. Instructions for Placement and Burial of Cache 4/7
5. Other Things to Do, and First Aid Kit. Recommended Reading List. 5/7
6. Some Recent News Items 6/7
7. List of 2nd Amendment Rights Organizations and BBSs 7/7

        The purpose of posting these articles to the Internet is
as follows: 
 
	(1) To get owners of weapons to realize that their
situation is critical - they must immediately become active in
the legislative process in order to secure the free exercise
of their right to keep and bear arms; 
 
	(2) To give notice to those who would deprive law-abiding
citizens of one of their most important natural rights, the
right to keep and bear arms, that their attempts at pretended
legislation will meet with defiance and scorn at best; 
 
	(3) To lay the groundwork for a massive campaign of civil
disobedience to unConstitutional laws, should it become
necessary to do so, so that those in power can realize that their
power actually does derive from the "consent of the governed".
When the governed withdraw their consent, the lawful and just
powers of the government are withdrawn also.
 
	(4) To give those who would wish to freely exercise their
Second Amendment rights in the face of government tyranny,
after failing to preserve their freedoms, the means to do so.
It is hoped that this shall never come to pass, but this will only 
be the case if those who wish to preserve their liberty do nothing 
in the face of the present evil. 
 
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner.


Article: 87526 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 2/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.060501.26610@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.060120.26499@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:05:01 GMT
Lines: 188

"This whole country began with resistance to gun control." 
1. Introduction: 
	The American Revolution began on the morning of April 19, 1775, 
when British troops marched on the road to Lexington and Concord,
Massachusetts, to seize the weapons and ammunition of the
colonists.The colonists, much to the surprise of the British,
fought back. The results of this action, fought at Concord
Bridge, were the "shot heard 'round the world" against the
tyranny of King George III, and the eventual independence of
the United States. 

	The social contract which created the legal foundations
for our Republic is called the Constitution of the United
States. Appended to it is a Bill of Rights, which enumerates a list of
some of the more important examples of our inalienable and
inherent rights. These rights can not be "taken away", nor can
these amendments be repealed without breaking the social
contract that the Constitution embodies. 

	It looks like the people who want to preserve their Second 
Amendment rights are losing out to those who would wish to 
destroy and nullify our ability to freely exercise our inalienable 
Constitutional right to keep and bear arms. The Brady Bill, which 
mandates a waiting period of five days for the purchase of handguns 
has now passed, thanks to the combined efforts of Bob Dole and
George Mitchell, who gave their assent to a unanimous consent
decree in order to pass it. According to Dole, "All of us are
happy to have this issue behind us, after a long, long, hard
fight, Jim Brady has won." (NY Times, 25 Nov 1993, p1). The
Crime Bill, which outlaws manufacture, transfer, and
possession of certain semiautomatic weapons and all magazines
capable of containing more than 10 rounds has passed the
Senate. 

	More restrictive measures, such as the law providing
for the confiscation of all handguns in the possession of
civilians, are being actively considered. The time may soon
come when all currently law-abiding gunowners will have to
make an agonizing decision: Either turn over your guns to the
friendly policemen standing on your front doorstep with their
guns drawn in case you might decide to make a foolish move, or
resist and die in a blaze of gunfire. Or worse yet, be held
against the floor, guns pointed at the heads of you, your wife
and your children, while police ransack your house, ripping
open furniture, destroying walls, ceilings and floors,
searching for concealed weapons. If any are found, they will cause
you to lose your house and possessions in a civil asset
forfeiture action, and will be used as evidence in a trial to
send you to prison for a long stretch. You might get them to
make a deal, though. They will offer you your freedom if you
will inform on your friends. These methods have been
fine-tuned for the past 10 years in the War on Drugs; now, it
is time to use them against those who would wish to preserve
their Second Amendment rights: 

	"A well-regulated Militia, being necessary to the security 
	of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear Arms, 
	shall not be infringed."
	
	There are many who idly boast to their friends at work that
the police will never get their guns, or who have bumper
stickers saying "They'll get my guns when they pry them from
my cold, dead hands." These are empty words, without force;
these people, when confronted with a SWAT team on their front
doorstep, will surrender immediately, as they have been taught
to do, by the schools at first, and then by the "news" media.

	The first clause of the Second Amendment speaks of a
"well-regulated militia". Look around you, at the various
people you see at gun shows; look at the people in your gun
clubs: Are these people part of a "well-regulated militia" ?
Are they well-drilled in small-unit tactics and the use of
expedient methods, in the use and care of military weapons,
as any militia should be? Are you part of a local militia such
as the Swiss have in their cantons, and do you train for two
weeks each year, from the time you are 16 until you are 60?
Have you learned about communications nets and emergency
medicine, tactics and strategy, and the other things needed to
become "well-regulated"? 

	The majority of us have become fat, dumb, and lazy, depending 
on the courts to interpret the Constitution for us, on the Congress 
to feed us and supply all of our needs, and on the various standing 
armies (such as your local, state, and federal police agencies) to 
enforce the plethora of laws, rules, and regulations written by 
Congress and the bureaucracy. If the Second Amendment is so 
infringed upon by various administrative laws and regulations so 
as to have utterly no meaning, it is the fault of those of you who
have been too lazy and complacent to act on your
Constitutionally- mandated duty to form a "well-regulated
militia". 

	It has been suggested that it might be a good idea to develop 
a kit which could be used to circumvent  attempts at weapons 
confiscation, and to prepare for a massive campaign of civil 
disobedience to such unconstitutional, and therefore invalid, laws. 
We have developed such a kit from commonly obtainable materials, 
and present here instructions for its construction and use. 

Note: If at this point you are seriously considering burying your 
weapons, consider this: You aren't burying them so that one fine, 
crisp, cool fall day, you can dig them up and go hunting for deer. 
You aren't burying them so that you can go to the range and shoot 
at paper targets, or metallic silhouettes. You are burying them
so that you can resist, by force of arms if necessary, a
government that has turned tyrannical, that offers you nothing
but the shackles of slavery. You are burying them so you can
turn into a member of the "well-regulated" unorganized
militia, sworn to uphold the Constitution. When you dig up
those weapons you have buried, you will be in violation of a
whole raft of laws, your home and assets will most likely be
forfeited to the State. If caught, you may be prosecuted and
jailed, if lucky; if not, you may be executed on the spot by a
Weapons Confiscation Unit. 

	You should not expect to be able to go home after a hard days' 
"hunting", since home most probably will be incinerated and 
bulldozed into the ground; if you are lucky, Federal agents may 
just decide that they want to own your possessions, and seize your 
house and property and live in it, or turn it into some instant cash, 
by selling it to the highest bidder at an auction in the front yard.
If you get hurt, don't expect to be able to call an ambulance to get to 
a hospital, or get any sort of medical care. Also, forget about
going to a grocery store and spending a couple of hours
shopping for food. Food will be what you can get, when you can
get it.

	If you really want to freeze like the Continental Army
did at Valley Forge, dying of cold and starvation, having no
shoes but rags, and having very little hope of ever seeing
"the good life" again, then you should consider what this
course of action entails. Most people cannot use a map and
compass, much less cross rough terrain swiftly on foot. Most
people do not know how to set up secure communications nets.
Very few people outside of the military know how to do
anything with explosives, or treat any medical emergency more
severe than a cut or bruise. Even fewer people know small-unit
tactics or how to gather and process intelligence. Command,
Control, Communications, and Intelligence are a mystery to
most people, and this includes most people who would be
burying their weapons. On top of all of this, you must set up
an organization, perhaps modeled on that adopted by the French
Resistance during the Second World War, of cells of no more
than five people, which know only what they need to know. Read
the history of that organization (FFI), and then consider if
you really want to go through with this course of action. 

	For now, there IS an alternative. You can become active, truly
ACTIVE, in a local organization. This means that you go door
to door, talking to all of your family, friends and neighbors;
you deluge your legislators with letters and phone calls on
the Second Amendment issues that affect you; you VOTE for
those who support your ability to freely exercise your Second
Amendment and other Constitutional rights, you give money and
your unstinting efforts to their campaigns, and you work hard
to get your family, friends and neighbors to vote for them.
There is a list of such organizations in the last part of this Series, 
along with a list of computer bulletin board systems which you 
can use to communicate with other like-minded people and get the 
news on current events. 

	It is far preferable to use the democratic process to work 
to secure the rights for which our forefathers gave their lives, 
at Bunker Hill, at Valley Forge, and all the other blood-soaked 
battlefields in the American Revolution, than to have to suffer 
the sort of privation and starvation that they suffered, facing the 
possibility of death by enemy fire or by hanging, as rebellion was, 
and still is, a treasonable offence punishable by death. 

	If there is still the least ray of hope that you, with many 
millions of others, can work peacefully to influence the course of 
events so that our government, instituted to secure our unalienable 
rights to Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness, can veer from
the road to tyranny back to the way of Freedom, then go 
immediately to the last article in the Series. Contact and join those 
organizations, and become ACTIVE in them. Only if you think that 
there is no other way to proceed, if you have lost all hope of 
reforming our current system of government and bringing it back in
conformance with the Constitution, then read on.
**********************************************************************
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner.


Article: 87528 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 3/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.060819.26794@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.060120.26499@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:08:19 GMT
Lines: 313

	Section 2. Equipment List for Cache Kit (part3a): 
The kit consists of the following: 
1.      1 PVC 6" inside diameter plastic pipe, 60" long. 1 PVC
	end cap, non-threaded, to fit pipe. (Note: If you have gophers
	or other burrowing animals in the vicinity of the burial site,
	use ABS pipe instead of PVC. It is more resistant to damage,
	but is a bit more expensive.) 
	
2.      1 ABS screw cap 6" inside diameter, with square lug. 1
	ABS end cap adapter, 6" inside diameter, with threads inside,
	to fit pipe. 
	
3.      1 weapons retrieving rod (ABS 0.5" plastic pipe) with
	2 nylon cords attached, one upper, one lower. 
	
4.      1 PVC end cap wrench. 
 
5.      10 ultra-absorbent diapers 
 
6.      5 lb. silica gel desiccant. 
 
7.      2 pair nylon pantyhose 
 
8.      8 six-bushel non-biodegradable plastic garbage bags 
 
9.      1 roll of Teflon tape. 
 
10.     1 small kitchen garbage bag (plastic) and 5" rubber
	band. 
	
Figure 1. Schematic Diagram of Assembled Cache Kit.
 
 
					[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[
	222[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[222
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	 2211 : IOOOOOOOO; : [[[[[[ : IOOOOOOOO; :  1122
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	22211 : HOOOOOOOO< : [[[[[[ : HOOOOOOOO< :  11222
	22211 HOOOOOOOOOOOO< [[[[[[ HOOOOOOOOOOOO<  11222
	2221100000000000000000000000000000000000000011222
	2221100000000000000000000000000000 00000000011222
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	2221100000000000000000000000000000000000000011222
	2222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
Section 3. Instructions for Making Your Own Kit (part 3b):
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 1:         6" PVC DS 3000 lb crush PVC sewer pipe MS ASTN
D2729, with end cap. The 6" PVC sewer pipe is available from
any plumbing supply store, as is the end cap. Hardware stores
may carry this pipe, as well. This pipe can also be found on
large construction sites, and in new houses where it is used
for waste water pipe to sewer mains. Use a 5 foot (60") long
piece. The end cap for the bottom end is 3" deep. We used
Multi Purpose Cement, available from True Value Hardware, for
attaching the end cap to the pipe. This cement produces a
leakproof seal, and contains tetrahydrofuran (THF), methyl
ethyl ketone (MEK), and cyclohexanone chlorinated polyvinyl
chloride (PVC). NOTE: If you have gopher problems in the place
where you will be placing the cache, use ABS pipe instead. IF
you do this, you will need to use ABS cement as well. This may
be a little bit more expensive. 
Costs- 6" PVC pipe, 5' long: $16; end cap: $3; cement: $2.79/4
fl. oz.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 2:         ABS plastic screw-in end cap adapter, and ABS
screw-in end cap, with 2" square lug on outside end. These are
more or less the same as the adapter and end cap found in
household basement clean-out plugs. The cap and adapter
assembly is about 12" long, with 6" protruding out over the
end of the pipe, for the threads of the end cap. The screw-in
cap must have standard threading - ours has seven
threads/inch, and is one inch deep. Attach the adapter to the
pipe with the Multi Purpose Cement as mentioned in Item 1,
above. 
Costs- End cap adapter and screw-in end cap, $3.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Item 3: 		Weapons retrieving rod. We used a 4'6" long
half-inch ABS plastic pipe, with two 3/8" holes drilled in it,
one hole at 3'6", and one at 1'6", and two five-foot lengths
of nylon cord inserted through the holes. Knot on either side
of the hole so there will be no slippage. We then attached a
T-adapter to the end 1 foot away from the nylon cord (see
Fig.1), and made it into a T-handle using 2 three-inch lengths
of the half-inch ABS pipe. We capped the ends of the handle
with half-inch end caps. All plastic joints were cemented
using the Multi Purpose Cement as in Item 1, above. Wooden
broom handles could also be used here, as long as the
possibility of breakage is accounted for. DO NOT USE METAL
PIPE FOR THIS COMPONENT 
Costs- 5' half-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.35/foot, $1.65;
T-adapter @ $0.79, $0.79; half-inch end caps @ $0.59, $1.18;
10 ft. nylon cord, $1.50.
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 4: 		End cap wrench. Get a 2" diameter piece of
PVC pipe, cut to whatever length you decide to bury the tube
at. Drill one end to make a handle with a 3/8" diameter
foot-long length of pipe, preferably PVC also, and make four
hacksaw cuts in the other end, as deep as the lug on the screw
in end cap protrudes, and sized to fit the it snugly.  See
Fig. 1 for illustration. 
Costs- 3' two-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.70/foot, $2.10; 1 foot
of 3/8" dia. ABS pipe @ $0.50, $0.50.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 5: 		10 ultra-absorbent disposable diapers. We
used the size for 25-30 lbs babies. One diaper was found to
absorb one quart of water, and keep it behind a vapor barrier,
so ten diapers should be quite sufficient to sop up whatever
leakage may occur. 
Costs- 36 pack ultra-absorbent disposable diapers @$9.00, 1
diaper @ $0.25, $2.50 for ten.
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 6: Silica Gel Desiccant. This is available from arts and
crafts stores, or from garden stores. It is commonly used to
dry flowers. To reactivate, heat at 250 degrees in your oven
overnight, or put on a plate in your microwave, and heat at
the HIGH setting for four minutes. 
Costs- Five pounds Flower Art Silica Gel, $15.99; Activa
Products, POB 1296, Marshall, TX, 75670. Also available from:
Dillon, 1-800-223-4570. 
--------------------------------------------------------------
Item 7: Two pairs nylon pantyhose, new. Use cheapies, but make
sure that the weave is tight enough so that the silica gel
will not go through it. 
Costs- 2 pair nylon pantyhose. $4.00
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 8: Eight six-bushel garbage bags. We got 100 of these on
a roll from a local hardware store. Each bag is about five
feet long, and they are of relatively thick plastic. 
Costs- 100 bags on a roll @ $8.00, 1 bag @ $0.08, 8 bags - $0.64
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 9: 1 roll of Teflon tape. Also known as plumber's joint
tape, used to wrap joints in water pipe, and so on. Should be
3/8" to 1/2" wide. 
Costs- 1 roll Teflon tape, $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 10:        Plastic bag and rubber band. Get a plastic bag
from your kitchen, a small garbage bag will do fine, and a
long (5") rubber band. 
Costs- bag, $0.05, rubber band, $0.05.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Total Cost of Materials: approximately $55, before tax. Prices
may vary due to discounts for bulk purchases, local taxes, and
so on.

**************************************************************
4. Using The Kit to Cache Weapons: 
4.1 Preparation and Loading of Cache:
------------------------------------------------------------
Step One: Cut one pair of the pantyhose in half. Fill one
of the pieces with a pound of the silica gel desiccant. Knot
snugly at the top, and then wrap the rest of the material down
towards the toe of the sock. If there is enough left over,
knot the end of the material. Place the weapon to be cached
butt down in one of the garbage bags, and place the desiccant
bag next to the receiver. Press all the air out of the bag,
and knot at the top. Take this bag with weapon enclosed, and
insert it muzzle first into another garbage bag. Press all of
the air out, and knot shut. Place this bag with weapon
enclosed into another garbage bag, butt first. Press all the
air out, and knot shut. Place this bag with weapon enclosed in
another garbage bag, muzzle first. Press out all of the air,
and knot securely. The weapon and desiccant bag should now be
enclosed in four (4) plastic garbage bags. The garbage bags
should conform to the shape of the weapon, with as few air
pockets as possible. See Figure 2.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Step Two: The bagged weapon is tied, muzzle first, to the
retrieving rod. Use the cord closest to the T-handle: tie a
square knot around the muzzle of the weapon, either below the
bayonet lug, or below the front sight. The second cord is then
tied around the stock at the trigger guard. See Fig. 3.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Repeat Steps One and Two for the second weapon, if any.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Step Three: Fill each leg of the second pair of pantyhose with
1.5 lbs of silica gel desiccant. Knot each leg directly above
the desiccant gel, and then push the resulting bags through
the remaining material toward the top end of the pantyhose.
Knot each end again, if possible. You should have two bags of
desiccant connected by a strip of pantyhose. Drape these bags
over the top nylon cord on the weapons retrieval rod, so that
each bag hangs alongside the muzzle of each weapon. See Fig.4.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Step Four: fit one of the absorbent diapers to the butt end of
each weapon, ABSORBENT MATERIAL FACING DOWN (inside out). Use
the tapes on the diapers to secure them snugly. Each diaper is
capable of absorbing 1 qt of water. Take the remaining diapers
and place them, absorbent side down, in the long PVC tube. See
Figure 5.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Fifth, slide the weapons retrieving rod, with weapons
attached, into the cache. Make sure the T-handle is closest to
the end cap which screws in, BEFORE you insert the weapons.
See Figure 6.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Sixth, Use the Teflon tape to cover the threads of the end
cap, by wrapping it onto the end cap. Cover all of the
threads, and go over the threads twice. Make sure that the
tape is wrapped on tight, so when you screw in the end cap it
does not come loose. Screw in the end cap, and use plastic bag
and rubber band to protect seal. See Figure 7. The tube is now
ready for burial. 

An alternate idea is given below:

 A reader proposes the following:

"I've wondered about an alternative method that would be a one-time affair.
Pack the weapon as you describe and then rather than thread the cap, cement
that sucker and use a hacksaw to get at it?  Granted, reburying would be 
more difficult, but you'd have more confidence of a leak-proof seal. I'd
be concerned about temperature extremes popping the top or caving it.  I
presume you've done some experiments."
 
 Using this proposal, reburial would be impossible, but the seal would be
 *guaranteed* watertight. One possible thing to worry about is the buoyancy
 of the cache tube. The weight of the weapons and ammo should be sufficient
 to weight it down, but the user needs to check the local water table. If
 water comes up in the bottom of the hole, then there may well be a problem
 with buoyancy; there may also be problems with water coming into the tube
 via hydrostatic pressure. In this case, the tube should either be moved to
 another location where this problem does not exist, or, if there is no better
 altenative, the user should Teflon-tape the screw threads up to 3/4" of the
 top, then apply ABS or PVC glue, as mentioned in the assembly procedure for
 Component 1, to the top 3/8" of the cap. The cap should then be screwed in,
 to finger tight, then turn with a wrench 1/8 turn. The user should then
 make a bead of glue on top of the joint where cap meets adapter, and glue
 a water-proofing sheet (used in lining shower stalls before pouring concrete)
 which has been cut to fit the top, to the top of the cache tube. The place
 where the sheet has been cut to accept the square lug should be glued, as
 should the area at the circumference of the sheet. This should provide a
 waterproof seal.

 The tube will have to be dug up to recover the contents, if it has been
 buried. A strong metal wrench will be required to break the seal, if it
 is desired to attempt to reuse the cache tube. Otherwise, a hacksaw blade
 can be used to cut the BOTTOM cap off. DO NOT CUT OFF THE TOP. It will
 take a long time, and there is a danger of harm to the contents of the
 tube. Using this method, the cache tube will be rendered UNUSABLE for
 further use.

 REMEMBER, "THINK TWICE, CUT ONCE!"

---------------------------------------------------------------
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner.


Article: 87529 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 3/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.061438.26933@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:14:38 GMT
Lines: 313

	Section 2. Equipment List for Cache Kit (part3a): 
The kit consists of the following: 
1.      1 PVC 6" inside diameter plastic pipe, 60" long. 1 PVC
	end cap, non-threaded, to fit pipe. (Note: If you have gophers
	or other burrowing animals in the vicinity of the burial site,
	use ABS pipe instead of PVC. It is more resistant to damage,
	but is a bit more expensive.) 
	
2.      1 ABS screw cap 6" inside diameter, with square lug. 1
	ABS end cap adapter, 6" inside diameter, with threads inside,
	to fit pipe. 
	
3.      1 weapons retrieving rod (ABS 0.5" plastic pipe) with
	2 nylon cords attached, one upper, one lower. 
	
4.      1 PVC end cap wrench. 
 
5.      10 ultra-absorbent diapers 
 
6.      5 lb. silica gel desiccant. 
 
7.      2 pair nylon pantyhose 
 
8.      8 six-bushel non-biodegradable plastic garbage bags 
 
9.      1 roll of Teflon tape. 
 
10.     1 small kitchen garbage bag (plastic) and 5" rubber
	band. 
	
Figure 1. Schematic Diagram of Assembled Cache Kit.
 
 
					[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[
	222[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[222
	222[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[222
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	222[[   [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[   [[222
	222[[   [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[   [[222
	222[[                [[[[[[                 [[222
	222[[ IOOOOOOOOOOOO; [[[[[[ IOOOOOOOOOOOO;  [[222
	 2211 : IOOOOOOOO; : [[[[[[ : IOOOOOOOO; :  1122
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	   11 : :  [[[[  : : [[[[[[ : :  [[[[  : :  11
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	   11 : :0[[[[[[ : : [[[[[[ : : [[[[[[0: :  11
	   11 : :0[[[[[[ : : [[[[[[ : : [[[[[[0: :  11
	   11 : :0[[[[[[ : : [[[[[[ : : [[[[[[0: :  11
	   11 : :0[[[[[[ : : [[[[[[ : : [[[[[[0: :  11
	   11 : :0[[[[[[ : : [[[[[[ : : [[[[[[0: :  11
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	22211 : HOOOOOOOO< : [[[[[[ : HOOOOOOOO< :  11222
	22211 HOOOOOOOOOOOO< [[[[[[ HOOOOOOOOOOOO<  11222
	2221100000000000000000000000000000000000000011222
	2221100000000000000000000000000000 00000000011222
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	2221100000000000000000000000000000000000000011222
	2222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
Section 3. Instructions for Making Your Own Kit (part 3b):
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 1:         6" PVC DS 3000 lb crush PVC sewer pipe MS ASTN
D2729, with end cap. The 6" PVC sewer pipe is available from
any plumbing supply store, as is the end cap. Hardware stores
may carry this pipe, as well. This pipe can also be found on
large construction sites, and in new houses where it is used
for waste water pipe to sewer mains. Use a 5 foot (60") long
piece. The end cap for the bottom end is 3" deep. We used
Multi Purpose Cement, available from True Value Hardware, for
attaching the end cap to the pipe. This cement produces a
leakproof seal, and contains tetrahydrofuran (THF), methyl
ethyl ketone (MEK), and cyclohexanone chlorinated polyvinyl
chloride (PVC). NOTE: If you have gopher problems in the place
where you will be placing the cache, use ABS pipe instead. IF
you do this, you will need to use ABS cement as well. This may
be a little bit more expensive. 
Costs- 6" PVC pipe, 5' long: $16; end cap: $3; cement: $2.79/4
fl. oz.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 2:         ABS plastic screw-in end cap adapter, and ABS
screw-in end cap, with 2" square lug on outside end. These are
more or less the same as the adapter and end cap found in
household basement clean-out plugs. The cap and adapter
assembly is about 12" long, with 6" protruding out over the
end of the pipe, for the threads of the end cap. The screw-in
cap must have standard threading - ours has seven
threads/inch, and is one inch deep. Attach the adapter to the
pipe with the Multi Purpose Cement as mentioned in Item 1,
above. 
Costs- End cap adapter and screw-in end cap, $3.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Item 3: 		Weapons retrieving rod. We used a 4'6" long
half-inch ABS plastic pipe, with two 3/8" holes drilled in it,
one hole at 3'6", and one at 1'6", and two five-foot lengths
of nylon cord inserted through the holes. Knot on either side
of the hole so there will be no slippage. We then attached a
T-adapter to the end 1 foot away from the nylon cord (see
Fig.1), and made it into a T-handle using 2 three-inch lengths
of the half-inch ABS pipe. We capped the ends of the handle
with half-inch end caps. All plastic joints were cemented
using the Multi Purpose Cement as in Item 1, above. Wooden
broom handles could also be used here, as long as the
possibility of breakage is accounted for. DO NOT USE METAL
PIPE FOR THIS COMPONENT 
Costs- 5' half-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.35/foot, $1.65;
T-adapter @ $0.79, $0.79; half-inch end caps @ $0.59, $1.18;
10 ft. nylon cord, $1.50.
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 4: 		End cap wrench. Get a 2" diameter piece of
PVC pipe, cut to whatever length you decide to bury the tube
at. Drill one end to make a handle with a 3/8" diameter
foot-long length of pipe, preferably PVC also, and make four
hacksaw cuts in the other end, as deep as the lug on the screw
in end cap protrudes, and sized to fit the it snugly.  See
Fig. 1 for illustration. 
Costs- 3' two-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.70/foot, $2.10; 1 foot
of 3/8" dia. ABS pipe @ $0.50, $0.50.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Item 5: 		10 ultra-absorbent disposable diapers. We
used the size for 25-30 lbs babies. One diaper was found to
absorb one quart of water, and keep it behind a vapor barrier,
so ten diapers should be quite sufficient to sop up whatever
leakage may occur. 
Costs- 36 pack ultra-absorbent disposable diapers @$9.00, 1
diaper @ $0.25, $2.50 for ten.
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 6: Silica Gel Desiccant. This is available from arts and
crafts stores, or from garden stores. It is commonly used to
dry flowers. To reactivate, heat at 250 degrees in your oven
overnight, or put on a plate in your microwave, and heat at
the HIGH setting for four minutes. 
Costs- Five pounds Flower Art Silica Gel, $15.99; Activa
Products, POB 1296, Marshall, TX, 75670. Also available from:
Dillon, 1-800-223-4570. 
--------------------------------------------------------------
Item 7: Two pairs nylon pantyhose, new. Use cheapies, but make
sure that the weave is tight enough so that the silica gel
will not go through it. 
Costs- 2 pair nylon pantyhose. $4.00
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 8: Eight six-bushel garbage bags. We got 100 of these on
a roll from a local hardware store. Each bag is about five
feet long, and they are of relatively thick plastic. 
Costs- 100 bags on a roll @ $8.00, 1 bag @ $0.08, 8 bags - $0.64
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 9: 1 roll of Teflon tape. Also known as plumber's joint
tape, used to wrap joints in water pipe, and so on. Should be
3/8" to 1/2" wide. 
Costs- 1 roll Teflon tape, $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
Item 10:        Plastic bag and rubber band. Get a plastic bag
from your kitchen, a small garbage bag will do fine, and a
long (5") rubber band. 
Costs- bag, $0.05, rubber band, $0.05.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Total Cost of Materials: approximately $55, before tax. Prices
may vary due to discounts for bulk purchases, local taxes, and
so on.

**************************************************************
4. Using The Kit to Cache Weapons: 
4.1 Preparation and Loading of Cache:
------------------------------------------------------------
Step One: Cut one pair of the pantyhose in half. Fill one
of the pieces with a pound of the silica gel desiccant. Knot
snugly at the top, and then wrap the rest of the material down
towards the toe of the sock. If there is enough left over,
knot the end of the material. Place the weapon to be cached
butt down in one of the garbage bags, and place the desiccant
bag next to the receiver. Press all the air out of the bag,
and knot at the top. Take this bag with weapon enclosed, and
insert it muzzle first into another garbage bag. Press all of
the air out, and knot shut. Place this bag with weapon
enclosed into another garbage bag, butt first. Press all the
air out, and knot shut. Place this bag with weapon enclosed in
another garbage bag, muzzle first. Press out all of the air,
and knot securely. The weapon and desiccant bag should now be
enclosed in four (4) plastic garbage bags. The garbage bags
should conform to the shape of the weapon, with as few air
pockets as possible. See Figure 2.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Step Two: The bagged weapon is tied, muzzle first, to the
retrieving rod. Use the cord closest to the T-handle: tie a
square knot around the muzzle of the weapon, either below the
bayonet lug, or below the front sight. The second cord is then
tied around the stock at the trigger guard. See Fig. 3.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Repeat Steps One and Two for the second weapon, if any.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Step Three: Fill each leg of the second pair of pantyhose with
1.5 lbs of silica gel desiccant. Knot each leg directly above
the desiccant gel, and then push the resulting bags through
the remaining material toward the top end of the pantyhose.
Knot each end again, if possible. You should have two bags of
desiccant connected by a strip of pantyhose. Drape these bags
over the top nylon cord on the weapons retrieval rod, so that
each bag hangs alongside the muzzle of each weapon. See Fig.4.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Step Four: fit one of the absorbent diapers to the butt end of
each weapon, ABSORBENT MATERIAL FACING DOWN (inside out). Use
the tapes on the diapers to secure them snugly. Each diaper is
capable of absorbing 1 qt of water. Take the remaining diapers
and place them, absorbent side down, in the long PVC tube. See
Figure 5.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Fifth, slide the weapons retrieving rod, with weapons
attached, into the cache. Make sure the T-handle is closest to
the end cap which screws in, BEFORE you insert the weapons.
See Figure 6.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Sixth, Use the Teflon tape to cover the threads of the end
cap, by wrapping it onto the end cap. Cover all of the
threads, and go over the threads twice. Make sure that the
tape is wrapped on tight, so when you screw in the end cap it
does not come loose. Screw in the end cap, and use plastic bag
and rubber band to protect seal. See Figure 7. The tube is now
ready for burial. 

An alternate idea is given below:

 A reader proposes the following:

"I've wondered about an alternative method that would be a one-time affair.
Pack the weapon as you describe and then rather than thread the cap, cement
that sucker and use a hacksaw to get at it?  Granted, reburying would be 
more difficult, but you'd have more confidence of a leak-proof seal. I'd
be concerned about temperature extremes popping the top or caving it.  I
presume you've done some experiments."
 
 Using this proposal, reburial would be impossible, but the seal would be
 *guaranteed* watertight. One possible thing to worry about is the buoyancy
 of the cache tube. The weight of the weapons and ammo should be sufficient
 to weight it down, but the user needs to check the local water table. If
 water comes up in the bottom of the hole, then there may well be a problem
 with buoyancy; there may also be problems with water coming into the tube
 via hydrostatic pressure. In this case, the tube should either be moved to
 another location where this problem does not exist, or, if there is no better
 altenative, the user should Teflon-tape the screw threads up to 3/4" of the
 top, then apply ABS or PVC glue, as mentioned in the assembly procedure for
 Component 1, to the top 3/8" of the cap. The cap should then be screwed in,
 to finger tight, then turn with a wrench 1/8 turn. The user should then
 make a bead of glue on top of the joint where cap meets adapter, and glue
 a water-proofing sheet (used in lining shower stalls before pouring concrete)
 which has been cut to fit the top, to the top of the cache tube. The place
 where the sheet has been cut to accept the square lug should be glued, as
 should the area at the circumference of the sheet. This should provide a
 waterproof seal.

 The tube will have to be dug up to recover the contents, if it has been
 buried. A strong metal wrench will be required to break the seal, if it
 is desired to attempt to reuse the cache tube. Otherwise, a hacksaw blade
 can be used to cut the BOTTOM cap off. DO NOT CUT OFF THE TOP. It will
 take a long time, and there is a danger of harm to the contents of the
 tube. Using this method, the cache tube will be rendered UNUSABLE for
 further use.

 REMEMBER, "THINK TWICE, CUT ONCE!"

---------------------------------------------------------------
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner.


Article: 87530 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 4/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.061737.27084@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.061438.26933@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:17:37 GMT
Lines: 226

A. Burial of Cache Tube: This is the least desirable method of
using the cache tube, as the instruments used for detection
are very advanced, and the possibility of detection and
seizure are highest. As David Josephson writes: 
 
"You touched on an area that I actually have quite some
experience with. I started and for several years ran the
military magnetics division of the company that makes the
current ferrous ordnance locator for the Navy (both the land
portable and diver-held versions) and for ten years before
that ran the airborne magnetic survey systems group of the
same company. The magnetic signature of any long weapon you
cache will be at least as large as that of the pipe, so if you
are concerned about magnetic detection of caches, you have a
separate and very big problem. Likewise the conductivity
anomaly of a plastic pipe buried in more or less conductive
soil will be detectable with most ground penetrating radars
even if the pipe is empty. The barrel of any weapon, or a
cache of ammo, will have a major conductivity anomaly even if
nonferrous and will be detectable to substantial ranges with a
normal hobbyist metal detector." 
 
John De Armond also notes that: "The Whites detector is barely
affected by metal placed almost on TOP of the sensing head.
The sensitivity is directed DOWN." 
 
There are methods to use to get around this, as John De Armond
writes: "You MIGHT be able to seed the soil with ferric
chloride (something the Park Service has done around
Gettysburg in an attempt to thwart relic hunters) in order to
make the soil very conductive but even that is likely to
backfire.  The technician can tell by looking what kinds of
soils are conductive and/or iron-laden and if your soil seems
odd, that might just be all that is needed to bring in the
bulldozers." 
 
Another method is to use lots of decoys: bury in a junkyard or
a dump, where a lot of metallic debris is lying around. There
are lots of places out in the woods where people have dumped
old stoves, washing machines, old cars, and other junk, which
would make a good place for a cache. The trick is to make it
such that the cache tube does not stick out, so that its
magnetic signature is just one of many similar signatures in
the immediate vicinity. The junk pile should be pre-existing -
you shouldn't go out and create your own. It would also be a
good thing if there were quite a few junk piles of this sort
around, so that only a few of them would be used as cache
sites. The tube, in this case, need not be vertical; it can
lie on a diagonal or be horizontal, just as long as it is
well-camouflaged, both with regard to visual appearance and
magnetic signature. The weapons cache should be SURROUNDED on
all sides, except perhaps on the bottom of the cache by other
things which have magnetic signatures. It should NOT be placed
UNDER a bunch of junk, but SURROUNDED on the SIDES, TOP, and
maybe the bottom. In other words, a lot of the junk should be
buried in dirt, gravel, or whatever. Since bulldozers may be
brought in to dig things up, you should make appropriate
provision for this as well. 
 
BY NO MEANS SHOULD YOU BURY A CACHE IN YOUR BACKYARD, 
unless your yard is the city dump, or you live in a mountainous 
rural area, or you have a cave nearby. If you live in a suburban 
area, you might want to take this advice from John De Armond: 
 
"Joe Sixpack's not gonna fight the revolution from the 'burbs
regardless of the number of guns and ammo he buries in his
back yard. The last thing you will be permitted the luxury to
do when the revolution starts is huddle up in your 'burban
bunker and ride it out.  If the government doesn't root you
out, others will.  I've never understood the survivalists'
obsession with bunkering in.  Too many Rambo and Mad Max
movies, I guess.  It has NEVER worked.  The people who survive
will be those who are mobile.  Mobility and huge caches of
materiel are mutually exclusive.  I know that (God help me) if
I am unfortunate enough to be anywhere near an urbanized area
when the fighting starts, all I need is sufficient weaponry to
get started.  I'll simply take whatever else I need from the
sheep. I suggest that anyone who is seriously interested in
surviving and perhaps prospering in a guerrilla warfare
environment would be well served to study Viet Cong tactics.
They did quite a fine job against the same people and
mentality as we would be fighting." 
 
B. Placement in or around reinforced concrete structure: 
This is a distant second best, depending on where the structure
is located. High traffic locations are worse than option A, low
traffic locations are better than option C. Keep in mind that
obvious, and not-so-obvious, sites may be under surveillance,
either by remote camera, or from the air. Same advice as above: 
make sure that there's lots of other magnetic interference from 
reinforcing bars and so on, so the cache won't stick out. Try to bury 
in a place which will stay dry. 
 
C. Placement in dry or wet cave, old mineshaft, well, etc. 
The Best Option...If the cave is far enough below ground (>30 ft) 
there is little need to worry about placement, just make sure you 
know the cave, and can keep the location relatively secret; the cave
should not be well-known by others. For a wet cave, place out
of the flow of water, if any.

(part4b)
Assemble the tubes, with weapons and everything else in them,
AT HOME. Do not do this at the burial site. The tubes, with weapons,
will weigh between 75 and 100 pounds, each. Each weapon should
be buried with at least one, preferably two, loaded magazines. 
These magazines should be enclosed in the plastic bags with the
weapons, attached (but not inserted) to the stock of the weapon,
with nylon cord, one at the shoulder of the weapon, one next to
the receiver and trigger-guard. The tubes have been designed
with the SKS rifle in mind - the clearances are such that RthumbholeS
stocks, and any other kind of stock with protruding grips WILL
NOT FIT. Check your weapons BEFORE you get to the time that you
want to bury them. A standard 12-gauge shotgun will fit fine, as
well. 
 
DO NOT BUNCH UP TUBES. Bury them as far apart as possible, so
that if one is found, the others might be spared. 
 
BURY MOST OF YOUR AMMUNITION IN A SEPARATE PLACE. 
Also, if there is any space left over on the top of the tube, put in 
some MREs and MRE heat packs. They are non-metallic, relatively
inexpensive, and you might appreciate the fact that you did so
when you come to dig the weapons up...If you bury loaded
magazines, put them in the bags with the weapons and desiccant.
 
THINK ABOUT, AND PLAN FOR, WHAT YOU WILL NEED IN TERMS OF
CONCEALMENT WHEN IT COMES TIME TO DIG UP THE WEAPONS. 
Don't bury in an open field, or where you can be easily seen from
afar, without you or lookouts first noticing that you are
being observed. The site should be located so as to take
advantage of relatively unchanging natural landmarks, at least
for the anticipated  life of the cache. The site should be
accessible to people on foot, but inaccessible to heavy
machinery, such as bulldozers. If there are lots of old mines
or caves in your area, these may offer possible cache sites.
Soft ground can be used to deny access, or steep inclines, as
near roadways. Check concealment - you could use a garbage
dump where there are lots of old, heavy iron or steel
household appliances or junked cars. Concealment is relatively
easy in this case. You can also use more natural, undisturbed
sites, especially if the soil is rocky. If you bury the tube
in rocky soil, place a large rock or two in the shaft about
six inches above the tube, using the dirt from the hole to
fill the first six inches above the end cap. Fill the rest of
the hole with dirt, and camouflage the top appropriately.
Disperse any fill dirt that comes from the hole in an area at
least 10 yards distant from the hole; disperse evenly so there
are no piles immediately apparent. Finally, locate escape
routes you can use to escape detection if your lookouts detect
activity near your location. Be aware that the Bad Guys may
have infrared detection devices which detect body heat as well
as night vision glasses, so plan your route accordingly.
Practice site location in areas where you will NOT be doing
the burial - when you go hunting, you can go hunting for
hiding places as well as wild game. 
 
Learn to look at locations with the following in mind: 
	Positions for lookouts, 
	Landmark identification and placement, 
	Accessibility, 
	Concealment,
	Escape routes. 
	
	CAMOUFLAGE THE BURIAL SITE. Take a Polaroid photo of 
the burial site BEFORE you dig the hole. Make the site AFTER you 
are finished look like the site did BEFORE you did anything. BE 
METICULOUS. WHEN FINISHED, BURN THE PHOTO AND SCATTER 
THE ASHES... 
 
	Let Only Those Who NEED TO KNOW, Know About Your Caches.
The less other people know about your buried weapons, the less 
they can tell the Bad Guys. Assume your friends, relatives, and 
neighbors will be interrogated. ONE of them will talk. If they know 
everything, or enough to give the Bad Guys some ideas, your whole
enterprise might be "down the tubes"...

Pat Myrto, at pat@rwing.UUCP suggests:

"I would also suggest including a warning regarding supplies, etc.

"Get them locally, ALWAYS pay cash.  No checks.  No Visa, etc.

"Don't get stuff mail order - especially stuff that would finger someone
planing on not being a good sheep.  I speak of some of the books, and
such.  LEAVE NO PAPER TRAILS or as few as possible.  Attention is one
thing one can live without.

"Also, many firearms are (regrettably) on 4473s.  One should dream up a
credible cover story of having sold the weapon long ago to some individual
in East Egypt.   Fake up a receipt, etc and have some friend sign
it with other than their name (so writing is different).  Keep it around
so it ages, won't appear to have been made 3 days ago.  Age in this
context is years, not months.  To be at all credible, this can only be
considered for weapons acquired years ago, NOT recent acquisitions.
Ain't perfect, but a lot better than nothing.

"Folks in urban areas have another problem:  I have this mental picture
of 349583045843058430580348530495830458034895 Joe Sixpaks running out
and burying stuff - a PVC tube every 20 feet within 50 miles of
a city..."

       So far as purchasing by mail order goes, it might be good to use
a fake name, or have one person do some bulk ordering... Be careful about
the paper trail. Use a postal money order, if possible. That way, your
real name doesn't have to be on it, and you can have the goods shipped
to a place where you can get them, also not using your real name. Use
common sense and native ingenuity to figure out how to do things without
leaving a trail of clues.


  FINALLY, NEVER FORGET:
As John De Armond says, 
  "UNDERESTIMATING THE ENEMY IS THE WAY TO DIE.  
When the goon squad comes it will be populated by men just as 
smart as you, as well educated, better trained, with vastly more 
resources and all the time in the world. These are the same goons 
who used tanks and flame throwers on the Davidians, after all."
 
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner.


Article: 87531 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 5/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.062050.27247@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.061438.26933@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:20:50 GMT
Lines: 162

	IF YOU DECIDE TO BURY WEAPONS, HERE ARE SOME OTHER
THINGS YOU SHOULD BE DOING: 
 
1. Take up Orienteering as a sport. This involves running a
course cross- country, using a map and compass to find
check-points. This is good for your heart, lungs, and
endurance, and teaches you how to use a map and compass in a
stressful situation. 
 
2. Get an amateur radio license, if nothing else, the codeless
Technician license. This gets you into Packet Radio, which
gives you the capability to set up communications networks.
Set up a phone tree, so that you can get in touch with friends
quickly and easily. A knowledge of Morse Code might come in
handy, as well as the capability to build your own gear from
scratch. 
 
3. Take first-aid courses, up to and including (if possible)
Emergency Medical Tech courses. Know what to do if a companion
on a hunting trip has a medical emergency and medical help is
not readily available, or if he/she is accidentally wounded.
Know what supplies to carry, and which to have readily
available in case it is not easily possible to reach a
hospital or emergency room. 
 
4. Bury ammunition and food. You should have at least 1000
rounds of ammo per weapon. You should also bury, at a minimum,
two weeks supply of food. The way to do this is to prepare
another PVC tube as above, including retrieval rod. At the
bottom end of the rod, secure your ammo, each 100 rounds in a
heavy duty garbage bag (with 2 oz Anhydrous Silica Gel
desiccant in a sock) tied shut and tied to the rod with a
short piece of nylon cord. At the top end of the rod, do the
same with MREs and MRE heaters. Place the heaters in a garbage
bag with desiccant tied in a sock, and tie the bag shut.
Attach to the rod with a short piece of nylon cord. Pierce a
hole in the end of the outside wrapper of each MRE, being
careful not to break the seal in the wrapper. Tie the MREs to
the rod, using a short nylon cord threaded through the hole
and tied. Each tube you bury should contain at most 1000
rounds of ammo, and 2 weeks of food. If you bury six weapons,
you should bury six ammo/food cache tubes as well, remembering
not to bury everything in the same place; BURY TUBES NO CLOSER
THAN 10 YARDS TO EACH OTHER  AND NOT IN A STRAIGHT LINE! 
 
At least one of the food/ammo tubes should contain the
following first- aid kit: 
10    	4"x7" Camouflaged Field Dressings (Compressed), 
5    		3"x6 yard Camouflaged Gauze Bandages (Compressed), 
10 		2"x2" Camouflaged Compress and Bandage (Compressed),
 5     	Petrolatum Impregnated Gauze Bandages, 
1      	FirstAid Kit (Eye Dressing), 
1     		10cc tube of sodium sulfacetamide eye ointment, 
3       	rolls adhesive tape, 
5       	rolls Transpore tape, 
10   		1/4cc ampules Ammonia Inhalant Solution,
1     		100ml Povidone/Iodine,
		Solution (Betadine Antiseptic) in plastic bottle,
 5      	10ml tubes Povidone/Iodine/Petrolatum ointment, 
100  	1000mg tabletsAscorbic Acid, Buffered (Vitamin C), 
1      	tube of salt tablets (or small plastic bottle 
		of iodized table salt), 
10  		1-quart packets of Gatorade or other
		glucose/electrolyte replacement, 
1     		60"x108" mylar Emergency Blanket, 
20   		Instant Heat packets, 18-hour duration, 
10   		Instant Cold packets, 
1   		72"x72" clear plastic sheet, 
1      	60" length 1/4" diameter Tygon tubing, 
2      	intubation/airway kits, 
2    		Tracheotomy kits, 
1      	Ambu-bag, 
2      	pair bandage scissors, 
25     	assorted safety pins, 
assorted splinting materials, 
5      	hemostats, 
5      	forceps (straight), 
5    		forceps (curved), 
10    	packs butterfly closures, 
10  		packs 3/0 silk sutures with needle, 
 10    	packs 5/0 silk sutures with needle, 
5      	prep blades (razor blades), 
5     		dentist's probes/picks, 
10    	pair latex gloves, 3 Small, 3 Medium, and 4 Large. 
100  	tablets Tylenol(with and without Codeine), 
1      	survival medicine book (Mountaineering
		Medicine or the like, check your local outdoors supply shop),
3      	snake bite kits, 
50 ft. 	nylon cord (1/8" diameter). 
 
Use Ziploc plastic bags to store each component of the kit
above, except for the metal instruments (forceps, hemostats,
probes) which should be wrapped in cheesecloth, let sit
overnight in dry oven at 250 degrees, and then placed in a
ziploc bag. One instrument per piece of cheesecloth, one per
bag. The medications (sodium sulfacetamide, Tylenol (with and
without Codeine) should actually be carried into the field as 
fresh as possible, at the time you retrieve the caches. These
medications should be part of your 72-hour kit (See part 5b,
Recommended Reading.)

Other Useful Items -
 
In addition, at least one tube should have a water purifying
kit, which includes a filtering device capable of filtering
out Giardia and other microorganisms (such as Katadyn or
Insta-Pur), 1 bottle Halazone tablets, 1 bottle Potassium
Iodide tablets, and a water storage bag. Also present should
be a pack of topographic maps of the immediate area, an
orienteering compass with mirror and tritium sighting marks, a
"survival knife", a magnesium firestarting block with flint
rod, a Leatherman multipurpose tool (with pliers, knife blade,
screwdrivers, file, and so on), a survival fishing kit (hooks,
handline, sinkers, bobbers, etc.), and a roll of
non-reflective black duct tape. It has been suggested to 
include a few gold or silver coins, and you might want to do
so, for luck...The best currency, if it comes down to it,
probably wonUt be gold or silver. ItUll be more like lead,
copper, brass, and odd-shaped pieces of machined steel...
things like that.
 
*************************************************************
Recommended reading - 
 
1. Emergency Preparedness Handbook for Missionaries, $7.95 
2. A Year's Supply, $11.95 
3. 72-Hour Family Emergency Preparedness Checklist, $8.95 
 
Available from Barry Crockett, POB 1601, Orem, Utah, 84059
(add $1.50 each for shipping and handling, ask for bulk discount)
 
 4. SAS Survival Handbook,  J. Wiseman, Collins-Harvill, 1993.
	ISBN 0-00-217185-6, $20.00. Available from your local
	bookseller.
	
 5. FM 21-76, Survival. Get the latest edition of this US Army
     Field Manual. Usually can be found at gun shows or Army
     Surplus shops. Also check into other Field Manuals, as they
     may contain items of interest (See Part 9)
     
************************************************************
Supply Sources for First Aid Kit, MREs, and so on:
 
1. Emergency Essentials, Inc., 165 S. Mountain Way Dr., Orem,
Utah, 84058-5119. (800) 999-1863 
 
2. Out N Back, POB 1279, Provo, Utah, 84603. (800) 533-7415. 
 
3. Stat Medical Supply Co., 4555 South 300 West, Suite 500, 
Murray, Utah, 84107. (801) 261-4363. 
 
MREs and MRE heaters are sold at gun shows, as are many of the
items listed above, often at a substantial discount. 
________________________________________________________
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.      Permission is
hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced
without alteration, and so long as no money is charged for
reproductions on paper, aside from a reasonable amount for
materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this
information is not permitted by the copyright owner. 


Article: 87532 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 6/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.062435.27395@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.061438.26933@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:24:35 GMT
Lines: 263

From: pat@rwing.UUCP (Pat Myrto) 
Date: 14 Dec 93 07:02:36 GMT 
 
A "responsible hunter", who happens to work for the Government,
 writes: 
>>I think that when responsible gun owners look around, 
>>you will see that there is no need for "cop-killer" bullets, 
>>high-calibre handguns, or semi-automatic and automatic 
>>weapons.  None of us uses a MAC-10 to kill a rabbit.  Or 
>>even a deer for that matter. 
 
The reply:
Does any of that "us" include the government?  If not, why
not?  Are they exempt?  If so why?  Are they somehow our
'betters'?   Seems they have no need for 'cop-killer' bullets,
high-calibre handguns, or semi-automatic and automatic
weapons.  Why do they have a 'need' and we don't? 
And please point out the place in the Constitution that makes
the Right to Keep and Bear Arms subject to government-defined
'need'. 
 
We are waiting... 
 
The government doesn't use THEIR guns to kill rabbits, either.
 They use them to kill PEOPLE.  American Citizens (or is
'subjects' a better term?)  Too often, without provocation. 
Usually people they are annoyed at, in Weaver's case for
allegedly failing to pay a $200 tax, and refusing to be
intimidated to be a snitch for the BATF.  They seem to take
rejection badly.  A violation that was initiated by BATF, with
their pressuring the subject to do the violation (source:
testimony in open court, under oath).  Kill without benefit of
a trial.  The snipers at Ruby Creek, in open court, ADMITTED
they WANTED to kill Weaver.  They had orders to shoot anybody
who held a firearm.  WHETHER THEY WERE A THREAT TO ANYBODY OR
NOT.  Rather strange orders, no?  They are usually told to
shoot only if innocent life is in danger.  Not to just kill
someone.  Sounds like the objective of the exercise was to
make SURE that Weaver never lived to see trial, perhaps to
avoid embarrassment? They were so eager to waste him, they blew
what should have been easy shots for them, considering their
training and equipment.  Rather nice it failed (but they seem
to escape accountability for killing an unarmed woman holding
an 'assault' child, a 14 year old boy, and wounding Weaver.
His weapons?  Nothing spectacular.  Rather ordinary for people
in that neck of the woods. 
The FBI admitted they doctored evidence.  The prosecutor
withheld evidence from the defense.  HAd to apologize for
misconduct at the trial, it was so blatant. 
The judge accused them of murder, at the end of the trial,
after the acquittal of Weaver.  And bemoaned the fact they
were not in court. 
What has been done about it?   NOTHING.  No trial before the
people. Instead - IMMUNITY from being held accountable. 
These are the people you wish to have a MONOPOLY on coercive
force. Doesn't sound like a good candidate to me.  Would you
give a gun to anybody else with that sort of track record? 
 
Please tell us how victim disarmament laws will reduce crime. 
Please produce some supporting evidence one can verify. 
Examples of their efficacy in the past will be fine. 
We can wait till hell freezes over for a meaningful answer. 
 
Note on the NYC subway, the victims were unable to do anything
but cower and die until the killer ran out of bullets.  Gun
laws REALLY helped them, didn't they?  And the state did such
a great job of protecting them, too - especially since they
were FORCED to be totally dependent on them... 
How come you never hear of this at rifle ranges?   Or places
where someone in the crowd is likely to be armed? 
 
Please explain all this to us. 
We are waiting.  And waiting.  And waiting. 
 
BTW - you complain about lack of respect for Clinton.  This is
not a monarchy.  The president, in a free society, has to EARN
respect from the people.  It is not simply ordered, like it
would be in a dictatorship or monarchy.  The people do not
serve at the pleasure of the government - its the government
at the pleasure of the PEOPLE.  Perhaps because you are in the
employ of government, you feel you are 'special', and will be
unaffected by rules forced on the rest of us, that the rest of
us are somehow inferior.  Just remember, you will not be
'special' all your life.  When you employment ends, or you
retire, so will your 'special' status.  You will become a peon
like the rest of us.  I would make sure it is not something
out of Orwell's 1984 when you lose your Inner Party status. 
Don't forget that.  If you do, you might rue the day that you
do. 
=================================================================
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) 
Newsgroups: info.firearms.politics 
Subject: 2nd civil war 
Date: 13 Dec 93 18:48:27 GMT 
 
Another reader writes:
>Our government is declaring war on the populace.  More and
>more this country resembles 1930s Germany.  The efficiency
>of the propaganda (or should I say spin control) produced by
>ABC, NBC, CBS, the New York Times, the Washington Post,
>Time-Warner, etc would have astounded Josef Goebbels. 
 
It is striking, isn't it?  I saw one of our regulars out in
talk.politics.guns suggest that perhaps Clinton is mentally
incompetent because of his gun control stand.  That is a
breathtakingly misguided evaluation of the enemy.  And making
that mistake about the enemy is the sure path to defeat. 
Step back a moment and take a clinical view of the current
Washington environment.  Clinton is a masterful politician and
a natural leader. This is not a compliment - Hitler fit the
same profile.  Just his escaping the Jennifer Flowers issue
demonstrates his political skills. Most any other time in
recent history, when a politician was caught sticking his
pee-pee in strange holes, his career was over.  A recent
analysis I read observed that Clinton's handling of the issue
made him STRONGER.  Or look how he pushed through the nation's
largest tax increase. He did it in a manner that will have
most people forgetting that what he did WAS a tax increase. 
Or look at NAFTA.  He took a dead-in-the-water relic left over
from the Bush administration and made it law and politically
buried Perot at the same time.  Anyone still remember anything
about the travel office corruption?  That was as bad as
Nixon's Watergate but no one even lost their jobs this time
around.  Or consider how smoothly he got away with killing all
those people at Waco.  I submit that Clinton is one of the
most dangerous politicians ever to hold high office and to
contemplate fighting him without the proper respect for his
capabilities is to invite sudden defeat. 
 
This Administration is conducting a well-planned campaign to
strip Americans of the means of resisting the Government.  It
is being conducted with the aid (unwitting or otherwise) of
Congress, both parties and the bureaucracy.  Remember, the
friend of any totalitarian government is "order".  Tack on
"Law and" and you have the theme of the present campaign.  One
can get an insight into this by observing the Administration's
reaction to that idiot surgeon general's quite reasonable
proposal to take a look at legalizing drugs as a solution to
drug-related violent crime.  (The tragedy is this good
proposal now carries the baggage of being proposed by this
idiot.)  The Administration revealed its true agenda, in
jerking at the speed of light to squash this proposal.  Crime
reduction isn't his goal.  Using crime as the pretense for
disarmament IS.  The coup has begun and is being conducted so
smoothly that people don't realize it, even many people on our
side. 
John 
 
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) 
Subject: Re: What would you have done? 
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 93 12:24:31 EST 
 
>  Do you mind if I use the contents of your email to me 
>  in the next edition of the Weapons Caching manual?
 
OK 
 
>  Should we see police cars as rolling weapons caches? 
 
Absolutely.  And police station weapons rooms and national
guard armories. Remember, a bunch of both those populations
will be on our side when the war starts. 
 
John
=======================================================================
From: pat@rwing.UUCP (Pat Myrto)
Newsgroups: alt.rush-limbaugh,talk.politics.guns
Date: 14 Dec 93 06:24:08 GMT 
 
In reply to the "responsible hunter" who works for the Feds:
 
Lessee.  You work for the government.  Interesting. 
You say you have a rifle - I will assume it is a 'nice' gun, a
bolt action Remington.  Are you willing to bet your life that
next on the agenda won't be 'Sniper rifles'? 
 
The actions in NJ, NY, Chicago, Cleveland, Wash DC, and in CA,
plus unnamed others suggests that good faith "we aren't going
to confiscate" words from government are flat out-and-out
lies. 
 
The Brady Bunch has stated on numerous occasions that their
agenda is to make the possession of firearms - except for
military and police, and "licensed security guards" (read:
protection for 'special' folk, such as themselves) totally
illegal.  They have stated they have a step-by-step agenda. 
The NRA was rated as second only to the American Library
Assciation as a source of reliable and accurate information by
an agency (I forget which, someone will provide the answer, I
am sure) which needs to get statistical information (had to do
with Congress, I believe).  On the other hand HCI wasn't even
mentioned in that regard... 
 
You have accused the NRA of telling lies. 
 
Please be specific so someone can respond to them.  Surely you
have a list of 'lies' handy if you know they are telling
lies... or are you saying this because Brady or the media said
they were lying, so it must be so?  You have read the FBI memo
that was leaked, haven't you?  The one that plans the media
blitz we are now seeing, and their desire to ban possession of
all firearms? 
 
And of course, HCI and the Brady Bunch are people who ALWAYS
tell the complete truth... would NEVER dream of misleading us,
or you... 
 
You use your rifle for hunting, I notice.  I would follow the
Administration's agenda regarding hunting rather closely, if I
were you. Not their words.  But their ACTIONS and record. 
Seriously.  HCI and the animal rights people - the ones who
stand in front of you, have been known to slash tires, and
otherwise disrupt hunts, and those who push for removing
public lands from availability for hunters - have joined
forces with Brady, since they BOTH don't like guns.  Any guns,
except in the hands of the government.  After all, the Second
Amendment is so out of date, and irrelevant anymore... 
And if it takes a scope and is good for long range shots, it
would be a 'sniper rifle' if ever there was one. 
 
You also cite the Constitution as protecting you.  Seeing as
the government has shown rather blatant disregard for the
Second, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Eighth, and Ninth Amendments (and
the First is in extreme danger right now) I would not bet on
them abiding by the Constitution, to protect you.  You really
ought to examine that Clinton 'crime bill' that is up for
passage.  It is a shock.  The track record of the government
ignoring the Constitution whenever it is deemed expedient is
rather extensive. I leave it as an exercise to read the Bill
of Rights for yourself. 
 
Consider, for example, that you can have your property taken 
without even being ACCUSED of a crime.  And that 80 percent of 
the victims of civil forfeitures are people who are never even 
CHARGED with anything, let alone convicted. A Philadelphia paper 
(the Philadelphia Enquirer - not confused with the National 
Enquirer) did an extensive piece on these abuses. Clinton
wants to EXPAND the scope of these laws, not limit them.  You 
donUt always get to face your accusers, either.  The prosecutor
is deemed to be your accuser in too many cases.  And if they
go after you civilly, NONE of the protections in the Bill of 
Rights are applicable to your case.  That is how they pull off 
Civil Forfeiture.  The government does not feel you have a right
unless it is spelled out in the Constitution, and interpreted 
in the narrowest possible way, opposite from the original idea 
that the Constitution grants NO rights, it protects PRE-EXISTING
rights.  THe government feels it is OK to re-interpret the
definitions of words in the Constitution multiple times,
depending on what part is being read at the time, and their
mood. 
 
You might also consider reading the quote from Rev Niemoller.
 
If none of these concern you, there is nothing I or anyone
else can say to influence your views.  But what will you say
when you find out the laws DO impact that 'hunting rifle', and
nobody is left to back you up, because they all felt "It's OK
since they aren't after MY gun... but someone ELSE's..." 
 
What will you do about it THEN?  Besides cry? 
 
I'd think about it REAL HARD, if you wish to keep your Right
to Keep and Bear Arms. 


Article: 87533 of talk.politics.guns
Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: hluce@NETSYS.COM (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 7/7
Message-ID: <1993Dec28.062656.27526@netsys.com>
Sender: news@netsys.com
Organization: Netsys Communications Inc.
References: <1993Dec28.061438.26933@netsys.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:26:56 GMT
Lines: 83

************************************************************
Second Amendment Rights Organizations
*************************************************************
Citizen's Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear Arms (CCRKBA)
Liberty Park
12500 N.E. Tenth Place
Bellevue, WA 98005
206-454-4911             ($15/yr, monthly)
 
Firearms Coalition (FC)
Neal Knox Associates
P.O. Box 6537
Silver Spring, MD 20916
301-871-3006 info line
 
Firearms Education Institute (FEI)
P.O. Box 2193
El Segundo, CA  90245
310-322-7244,   (Papers and networking)
310-640-1248 FEI BBS
 
Gun Owners of America, Inc. (GOA)
8001 Forbes Place, Suite 102
Springfield, VA 22151
703-321-8585            ($20/yr, bimonthly)
 
Jews for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership
2872 South Wentworth Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53207
414-769-1491
 
National Rifle Association (NRA)
1600 Rhode Island Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20036-3268
202-828-6000,
800-368-5714,
800-637-8465
 
NRA Institute for Legislative Action (NRA/ILA)
P.O. Box 1730
Washington, D.C. 20077-4621
202-828-6330
 
People's Rights Organization (PRO)
P.O. Box 2652
Columbus, OH 43216
614-445-8102
 
Second Amendment Foundation (SAF)
James Madison Building
12500 NE Tenth Place
Bellevue, WA 98005
206-454-7012
 
Threat Management Institute (TMI)
800 West Napa St.
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-939-0303,
707-939-8684 fax,
707-935-1713 BBS
 
************************************************************
RTKBA Bulletin Boards (BBS)
*************************************************************
This is just a sampling of the many bulletin boards
which serve those interested in preserving their
ability to exercise freely their Second Amendment
rights. Updated 1 November 1993.
 
Paul Revere Network     		408 947-7800
Brass Cannon BBS                	602 639-1039
Paul Revere Net\KC              	816 597-3950
Bedrock BBS                     	918 835-6836
Paul Revere Net\OH              	513 474-9193
MN MinuteMan            		612 493-3558
Bullet'n Board                          703 971-4491
The Quiet Revolution    		603 753-9716
 
***********************************************
Internet/USENET Newsgroups:
************************************************
info.firearms.politics, talk.politics.guns
alt.conspiracy, alt.extropians


