/-----------------------------------------------------------------------------\ | The Anarchists Handbook of Explosives | | Volume one | | Compiled by: | | -=Nightshade=- | | With help from: | | Thorin Gloin | \-----------------------------------------------------------------------------/ This text file was typed and designed to help all of you young anarchists get the feeling of the true meaning of Anarchy. If you object to Anarchy, then do whatever you must do to abort this message NOW! What is Anarchy?? Basically, Anarchy is the belief that there should be no governing power over the people. (This includes teachers, etc.) Why should I like To believe in Arnarchy is to believe in yourself. It's Anarchy? the feeling that you are independent, that you don't need anyone to tell you what to do. How do I become one? Becoming an Anarchist is simple. All you must do is oppose all forms of government. In short, to be bad. This includes such things as terrorism. Most of those tragedies you hear about in the Middle East are performed by Anarchists. You don't need to hi-jack a plane or blow up an Embassy to be an Anarchist (But you must have the guts to). Some forms of Anarchy are stuff like blowing up cars, Vandalising anything you can find with an Anarchy symbol (An "A" With a circle around it), and breaking the law in general. Not all Anarchy is that bad, but in order to be a true Anarchist, it's a must. Anarchy Explosives ------- ---------- Chemical Substution Chart -------- ---------- ----- peroxide peroxide lead acetate sugar of lead lead tetroxide red lead magnesium silicate talc magnesium sulfate Epsom salts naphthalene mothballs phenol carbolic acid potassium bitartrate cream of tartar potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum potassium nitrate saltpeter silicon dioxide sand sodium bicarbonate baking soda sodium borate borax sodium carbonate washing soda sodium chloride salt sodium hydroxide lye sodium silicate water glass sodium sulfate Glauber's salt sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo Stupid Stuff ------ ----- MATCHES How to make an explosive from common matches: the word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but has a lower ignition temperature (more sensitive to heat) and unlike black powder is easily detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a hammer. What do you know! it goes bang! to collect a quantity of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons. They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching tv and collect enough for a bomb without dying of boredom. Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way. Just for fun while i'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It should fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. --- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it. BOTTLE GRENADE This one's really simple, but a lot of people forget about these kinds of simple weapons. Anyway, get yerself a glass bottle, some vinegar and baking soda, (Any substances that react in an expulsion of gas will work) and a good strong SCREW-ON cap. When you want to fire it, you put the vinegar and baking soda in the bottle, (The amounts depend on the size of the bottle...) and toss it. It works, but it's mainly an antipersonnel weapon, and if the bottle breaks you're screwed... TENNIS BALL CANNON Get 4 or 5 seven-up cans, cut the tops off of 3 or 4 respectively, and put holes (SMALL ONES, please...) in the top of the last can, drill a hole the diameter of an Ohio Blue Tip match in the side of the can, about 1&1/2 inches from the bottom of the can. Then stick a tennis ball in the top of the cannon, squirt in some lighter fluid in the little hole, and hold a flame under the hole. If you've done it right, it'll work. If you haven't, you won't be able to try another one until your hands have healed all of the severe burns you'll have. (12 times the power of lighter fluid is pretty hefty...) NAPALM Pour gasoline in a bucket, pour in some soap flakes or a shredded soap bar, and put this bucket inside a larger bucket. Fill the larger button with boiling water and wait. If the soap flakes melt, you're lucky. If they don't, renew the water with more boiling water. When all of the soap melts, you get NAPALM, which incidentally sticks to kids rather well... Smoking Stuff ------- ----- SMOKE BOMBS I don't know if this one works, but it might. Mix six parts Epsom Salts and three parts sugar over a low flame. When it turns into a gel, pour it into a container and stick a few matches in as fuses. Four pounds is supposed to fill a city block. 4 parts sugar to 6 parts potassium nitrate (SALT PETER). Heat over low flame untill it melts. Stir well. Pour it into a container and stick in a few matches as fuses. One lb fills a block nicely with thick white smoke. HTH smoke bomb: Using HTH pool chlorine (2 parts) and non-silicone brake fluid (3 parts) makes one hell of a smoke bomb. When you add these two together, it gives off really thick smoke. SMOKE SCREENS Here is a somewhat explosive composition uses by the Germans in WWII for black smoke: Hexachloroethane - 60% Anthracene - 20% Magnesium(powder)- 20% Brown Smoke: Pitch - 29.2% Pottasium Nitrate- 47.4% Borax - 10.6% Calcium Carbonate- 4.9% Sand - 4.0% Sulpher - 3.9% Note: You may substite pitch by soaking liquid tar in sawdust. This has better effect. Grey Smoke: A: Hexachloroethane - 50% Zinc Powder - 25% Zinc Oxide - 10% Pottasium Nitrate- 10% Colophony Resin - 5% B: Hexachloroethane - 45.5% Zinc Oxide - 45.5% Calcium Silicide - 9.0% Note: Because of the high vapor presure of HC, HC smokes must(be sealed in and artight container. Also the Zinc Powder one may react with water so be carefull. White Smoke: Potassium Chlorate- 20% Ammonium Chloride - 50% Naphthalene - 20% Charcoal - 10% Pottasium Nitrate - 48.5% Sulpher - 48.5% Realgar - 3.0% Pottasium Nitrate - 50% Sugar - 50% Yellow Smoke: Potassium Nitrate - 25% Sulpher - 16% Realgar - 59% Other Black Smoke: This one make the most beautifull black smoke but is expensive. Potassium Perchlorate - 44% Antimony Trisulphide - 24% Naphthalene - 26% Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch - 6% Potassium Perchlorate - 56% Sulpher - 11% Anthracene - 33% Hexachloroethane - 62% Magnesium - 15% Naphtalene (or Antracene) - 23% Red Smoke: Potassium Chlorate - 25% Rhodamine B - 24% Para Red R - 15% Blue Smoke: Potassium Chlorate - 28% Methylene Blue - 17% Indigo Pure - 40% Wheat Flour - 15% Green Smoke: Potassium Chlorate - 28% Auramine - 10% Methylene Blue - 17% Indigo Pure - 30% Wheat Flour - 15% Shock Sensitive Explosive Stuff ----- --------- --------- ----- Petroleum jelly and potassium chlorate in a 1 to 1 ratio by weight makes a totally safe when wet compound but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry. 3 grams of potassium iodide and 5 grams of iodide in a beaker with 50 ml of water mixed all together. Add 20ml of ammonium hydroxide (Ammonia water 10%) Filter. When wet it is very safe, but upon drying, becomes VERY explosive and shock sensitive. A feather will set it off. Called Nitrogen Triodide. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE How to make nitrogen triiodide: here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive that can be detonated by a fly walking on it. Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. Concentrated ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. Of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply. Fuses And other Time Delays ----- --- ----- ---- ------ BLACK MATCH FUSE How to make blackmatch fuse: take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 200 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used sodium nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperature. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefully to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE How to make a chemical time delay fuse: to get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the chlorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time delay can be controlled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say about potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. ELECTRIC FUSE How to make an electric fuse: take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. Another electric fuse: take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. Place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off. Electric fuse # 3: an excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores. They are sold for setting off model rockets. SULFURED WICK How to make sulfured wick: use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When the string is saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 Inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning rates. Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do just that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing ground with care. Bombs! ------ PIPE BOMB How to make a pipe bomb: buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a small object. Be extra cautious until you have done this a time or two and it gets real what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps. To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or facial tissue is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something. The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this. Believe it or not, cardboard rolling tubes used for rolls of industrial paper toweling (3/4" diameter) is excellent material for creating fairly "safe" pipe bombs. Stuff tubing abou 1/3 full of flash powder and jam two stones into each end. Use a plunger (or a small suction dart from a toy gun) to pack in as tightly as possible (make sure fuse protrudes from one end) and light. These are good if you want to scare the living shit out of someone. Also, if you want to make the device more destructive, you can cra{ broken glass and nails into the tubing with the powder... this gives a nice kick. CO2 CARTRIGE BOMBS You will have to use up the new cartridge by either shooting it in a c02 b-b gun or use it in a c02 car or what ever else you might figure out to do with it. With a nail, force the hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface. Insert a fuse (i recommend good water proof cannon fuse, but i've used fire- cracker fuses.) Light it and run!!! it does wonders for a row of mail boxes. Be careful however, this little beauty throws shrapnel and can be quite a hazard. LETTER BOMBS You will first have to make a mild version of thermite, however you will use just plain iron filings instead of rust. Mix the iron filing with the aluminium filings in a ratio of 75% aluminum with 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in an enclosed space (such as an envelope,) which brings us to the next ingredient. Go to the post office or business supply store and but an insulated (padded) envelope. The type that is double layered. Seperate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outter layer. Theres your bomb...Now to light it! This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing, experiement with this idea until you have got it right. Ok, the fuse is just that touch explosive placed where the letter would be torn open. You may want to wrap it lika a long cigerette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outter layer (on top of the powdered magnesium.) When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignight the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild themite. I've never sent one of these so i dont really know if it works good. I do know that the thermite burns real hot and if it didnt blow up it would give some one a bad burn (thermite does wonders on human flesh!!) PAINT BOMBS To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable lid, a nice bright color paint, and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the lid on tightly and then run. With some testing you can get it down so you have a timer that works on how much ice you have compared with how much paint you have. If you're really pissed at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, nock on the door, and then run!!! PETROLEUM OIL/LIQUID CHARGE [Petroleum Oil/Liquid charge. Designed for defeating tanks of flamable liquids or gases.] Materials: Soap dishes containing two seperate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into the top bevelled half (standard soap dish) Any homemade high explosive Thermite Incendiary Detonator Small alinco horseshoe magnets, double sided tape, or both. Procedure: 1. Seperate the two halves of the soap dish. Drill hole in top and insert detonator. 2. Fill 1/2 of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as thermite or aluminum granules. Thermite: 3 parts iron oxide powder and 2 parts aluminum powder, by volume. 3. Fill remaining half of bottom of soap dish with any powerful homemade explosive. 4. Fill 1/2 of top half with the explosive. 5. Secure halves together with tape. Stick on target with tape and/or magnets. Detonate. ANS Grind up 10 lbs. of Ammonium Nitrate in a blender. Mix in 1 lb. Sulfur. Mix well. Place 1/4 of the mixture in a 6x6x6 cardboard box. Use the cardboard tube from a toilet paper roll. Cut the tube in half. Tape one end shut. Place fuse in one side of the Tube. Fill tube with FLASH POWDER. Tape the other end of the tube shut. This is the detonator for the ANS. Place the detonator in the center of the box and fill the box with ANS. The above mixture will make 25 lb. boxes of ANS. _________________ c !*****************! * = ANS a !*****************! # = FLASH POWDER r !**** ____________!__ _ d b !****!############___!____[FUSE]___ !_!= BOX b o !****!############ ! o x !**** ---------------- __[]__ = FUSE a !*****************! r !*****************! d !_________________! FIREBOMBS Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in the mouth. The original Molotov Cocktail was one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one part roofing tar or one part melted wax to 2 parts gasoline. Spontaneous Combustion ----------- ---------- More spontaneous combustion: some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply. Method # 1: scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. Method # 2: mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from this. Method # 3: put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two drops of glycerin onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames. Method # 4: spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. Method # 5: mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. Powders, Liquids, and Solids -------- -------- --- ------ BLACK POWDER How to make black powder: you will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda. It is also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate makes a slightly more powerful black powder but has the disadvantage of being hygroscopic (obsorbes moisture from the air), so if you use it, store it in tightly closed containers. You can lso get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda, it will be in the form of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 200 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate, 2 parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as follows: moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortar and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie pan approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at all times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of the oven, etc. ROCKET FUEL How to make rocket fuel: this is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume potassium or sodium nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this. Another rocket fuel: mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate. UREA NITRATE How to make urea nitrate: would you be offended if I asked you to go pee in a pot? actually, this is the first step to making a powerful explosive called urea nitrate. Boil 10 cups of urine in a heat resistant glass container until the volume is reduced to 1 cup. Filter the urine into a second glass container through a coffee filter. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the filtered urine and let the mixture stand for 1 hour. Filter again as before. This time the urea nitrate crystals will collect on the filter. Wash the crystals by pouring water over them. Remove the crystals from the filter and allow to dry for 16 hours. This explosive has the disadvantage of requiring a blasting cap to detonate it, but I couldn't resist telling you about it. THERMITE Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered aluminum with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is hard to lite, but once you get it going, it generates so much heat it can burn its way through a steel plate. There are several ways to get it going. One way is to use a strip of magnesium ribbon as a fuse. If made from finely powdered ingredients thermite can generate a fast enough burning rate to be used as an explosive when confined. For melting metel, it is best to use a coarse mixture about the consistancy of ground coffee. Powdered aluminum can be bought at some paint stores or from a chemical supply. You can make your own iron oxide by burning steel wool in a stove pipe or similar container. Get it started with a propane torch and then blow a stream of air over it with a vacuum cleaner hooked up in reverse. RDX [RDX...cyclotrimethylenetrinitra-mine. Also known as cyclonite. Secondary high explosive. Heat of reaction 5.694 kilojoules per gram. Gas volume creation 908 cubic cm per gram. 140% as prisant as TNT. Effect of prolonged storage is negligible.] Materials: Hexamethylenetetramine (also known as hexamine) ...available from drugstores as urotropine, hexamin, and methenamine. Used to cure urinary infections. Strong Nitric Acid...chem supply stores. Acetone...from drug and hardware stores. Used as a paint solvent. Graduated cylinder or measuring cups Thermometer (20-100 degrees C or 68-212 degrees F) Several quart canning jars Two large basins or bowls made of metal. Paper towels Procedure: 1. Place 1/2 cup (120 ml) of nitric acid in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin of cold water. If necessary, swirl the canning jar around the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down. 2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, during a 15 minute time period. Maintain the temperature between 20-30 degrees C. while stirring gently with the thermometer. Control the temperature by dipping more and less of the can in the water. 3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to 55 degrees C (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Maintain this temperature for 10 minutes. 4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the canning jar to 20 degrees C. 5. When the temperature is 20 C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of cold water to the solution and a white salt will appear. ***The white precipitated salt is *RDX explosive, and it should be handled with care from this point on. 6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of anotherjar. 7. Wash the RDX crystals off of the paper towel and into a canning jar, using an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2 to 3 minutes, then filter again. 8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified. 9. To purify RDX, fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the acetone by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the acetone. 10. After the maximum amount of RDX has been dissolved in the hot acetone, allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one more hour. 11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter out the RDX and spread it to dry on a paper towel as before. ****************** * RDX is not too * * sensitive to * * heat and shock * * but it is very * * sensitive to * * friction. Thus * * use great care * * when packing. * ****************** Using the amount of chems given in this article, you should get about 1 1/2 ounces of RDX crystals of very good quality if you purified it. Two or three batches will be enough to make a three inch hole in sheet metal (say the side of a car). 8-10 ounces will be enough to do enough blast overpressure to take out the windows of a room. CAST EXPLOSIVES Potassium Chlorate 33 parts, Potassium Nitrate 33 parts, Sugar 24 parts, Powdered Coal 10 parts. Mix in enogh water to dissolve the chemicals and make a stiff putty. Form by hand to the disired shape and allow to dry. NOTE: Sodium Chlorate can be substituted for Potassium Chlorate in most formulas. Sodium Chlorate contains more oxygen than Potassium Chlorate. Sodium Chlorate is moisture absorbent. NOTE: Sodium Nitrate can be substituted for Potassium Nitrate in most formulas. PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES A plastic explosive used by Germany during WWII. Potassium Chlorate 96%, Fuel oil 4%. Or Sodium Chlorate and fuel oil. Mix 8 parts Potassium Chlorate to every 1 part Vassaline. Heat over a small flame (Like a match) for 2 minutes. Use an Electronic Detonator to set off. NITROGLYCIRIN *CAREFULLY* mix in equal amounts of nitric acid and sulfuric acid together in a granulated cylinder or other tall, thin container. Slowly add ordinary glycerin and stir very lightly. Wait a while, and pour off the liquid on the top. This liquid is nitroglycerin, and shood by handled with caution. Washing it with sodium carbonate will improve the purity. TNT Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being compused of: 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitrotoluene and mix 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise temperature to 90-100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes. The dinitrotoulene is separated and mix with 100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene. GUNPOWDER 75% potassium nitrate 15% charcoal 10% sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a mortar and pestle then combined and mixed thouroughly with each other. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed smace it bulids up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released. Other Stuff ----- ----- CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES 1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it what occurs is this: When the acid is added, it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. 2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite' (TM). Here it is: Potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate +ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (Scarlet= strontium nitrate; Purple= Iodine crystals; Yellow= Sodium chloride; Crimson= Calcium chloride, etc...) 3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammoniun chloride: 1 gram Zinc dust: 8 grams Iodine crystals: 1 gram 4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium permanganate is finely ground. 5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas, a highly flamable gas used in blow torches. SULFURIC ACID How to make concentrated sulfuric acid from battery acid: go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight.Otherwise, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Look at the section on fuses. /-----------------------------------------------------------------------------\ | Hope you liked the anarchy bombs. | | If you have trouble with the spelling..... | | TOUGH! I can't fix all of them. | | | | Try all of those on your neighbors, I do. | | | | -=Nightshade=- | \-----------------------------------------------------------------------------/