Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.1 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:16:10 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 529 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu here's the jolly roger's cookbook version 3.0 as requested [begin file] [Index to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook v 3.0] 000: Introduction by The Jolly Roger 001: Counterfeiting Money 002: Credit Card Fraud 003: Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach 004: Picking Master Locks 005: The Arts of Lockpicking I 006: The Arts of Lockpicking II 007: Solidox Bombs 008: High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox (NEW Revision 2.0) 009: CO2 Bombs 010: Thermite Bombs 011: Touch Explosives 012: Letter Bombs 013: Paint Bombs 014: Ways to send a car to HELL 015: Do ya hate school? 016: Phone related vandalism 017: Highway police radar jamming 018: Smoke Bombs 019: Mail Box Bombs 020: Hotwiring cars 021: Napalm 022: Fertilizer Bomb 023: Tennis Ball Bomb 024: Diskette Bombs 025: Unlisted Phone Numbers 026: Fuses 027: How to make Potassium Nitrate 028: Exploding Lightbulbs 029: Under water igniters 030: Home-brew blast cannon 031: Chemical Equivalency List 032: Phone Taps 033: Landmines 034: A different kind of Molitov Cocktail 035: Phone Systems Tutorial I 036: Phone Systems Tutorial II 037: Basic Alliance Teleconferencing 038: Aqua Box Plans 039: Hindenberg Bomb 040: How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands 041: Phone Systems Tutorial III 042: Black Box Plans 043: The Blotto Box 044: Blowgun 045: Brown Box Plans 046: Calcium Carbide Bomb 047: More Ways to Send a Car to Hell 048: Ripping off Change Machines 049: Clear Box Plans 050: CNA Number Listing 051: Electronic Terrorism 052: How to Start a Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F 053: Dynamite 054: Auto Exhaust Flame Thower 055: How to Break into BBs Express 056: Firebomb 057: Fuse Bomb 058: Generic Bomb 059: Green Box Plans 060: Portable Grenade Launcher 061: Basic Hacking Tutorial I 062: Basic Hacking Tutorial II 063: Hacking DEC's 064: Harmless Bombs 065: Breaking into Houses 066: Hypnotism 067: Remote Informer Issue #1 068: Jackpotting ATM Machines 069: Jug Bomb 070: Fun at K-Mart 071: Mace Substitute 072: How to Grow Marijuana 073: Match Head Bomb 074: Terrorizing McDonalds 075: "Mentor's" Last Words 076: The Myth of the 2600hz Detector 077: Blue Box Plans 078: Napalm II 079: Nitroglycerin Recipe 080: Operation: Fuckup 081: Stealing Calls from Payphones 082: Pool Fun 083: Free Postage 084: Unstable Explosives 085: Weird Drugs 086: The Art of Carding 087: Recognizing Credit Cards 088: How to Get a New Identity 089: Remote Informer Issue #2 090: Remote Informer Issue #3 091: Remote Informer Issue #4 092: Remote Informer Issue #5 093: Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines 094: Ma-Bell Tutorial 095: Getting Money out of Pay Phones 096: Computer-based PBX 097: PC-Pursuit Port Statistics 098: Pearl Box Plans 099: The Phreak File 100: Red Box Plans 101: RemObS 102: Scarlet Box Plans 103: Silver Box Plans 104: Bell Trashing 105: Canadian WATS Phonebook 106: Hacking TRW 107: Hacking VAX & UNIX 108: Verification Circuits 109: White Box Plans 110: The BLAST Box 111: Dealing with the Rate & Route Operator 112: Cellular Phone Phreaking 113: Cheesebox Plans 114: How to Start Your Own Conferences 115: Gold Box Plans 116: The History of ESS 117: The Lunch Box 118: Olive Box Plans 119: The Tron Box 120: More TRW Info 121: "Phreaker's Phunhouse" 122: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (Intro to MIDNET) 123: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (The Making of a Hacker) 124: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Network Miscellany) 125: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Pearl Box Schematic) 126: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Snarfing Remote Files) 127: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Western Union, Telex, TWX & Time Service) 128: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Hacking & Tymnet) 129: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (The DECWRL Mail Gateway) 130: Sodium Chlorate 131: Mercury Fulminate 132: Improvised Black Powder 133: Nitric Acid 134: Dust Bomb Instructions 135: Carbon-Tet Explosive 136: Making Picric Acid from Aspirin 137: Reclamation of RDX from C-4 Explosives 138: Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels 139: Clothespin Switch 140: Flexible Plate Switch 141: Low Signature Systems (Silencers) 142: Delay Igniter From Cigarette 143: Nicotine 144: Dried Seed Timer 145: Nail Grenade 146: Bell Glossary 147: Phone Dial Locks -- How to Beat'em 148: Exchange Scanning 149: A Short History of Phreaking 150: "Secrets of the Little Blue Box" (story) 151: The History of British Phreaking 152: "Bad as Shit" (story) 153: Telenet 154: Fucking with the Operator 155: Phrack Magazine - Vol. 1, Issue 1 (The Phone Preak's Fry-Um Guide) 156: International Country Code Listing 157: Infinity Transmitter Schematic and Plans 158: LSD 159: Bananas 160: Yummy Marihuana Recipes 161: Peanuts 162: Chemical Fire Bottle 163: Igniter from Book Matches 164: "Red or White Powder" Propellant 165: Pipe Hand Grenade 166: European Credit Card Fraud (Written by Creditman! A Cookbook III Exclusive!!) More to come!! -----------Jolly Roger Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! -Jolly Roger- Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card examples: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: [1] An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. [2] Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. [3] People's houses Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck! Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows. First off, you must obtain: [1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) [2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer [3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) [4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores) Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article. You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042 Odessa, Texas 79762 -- ************************** christopher p. dilkus * * st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu * *** ** ** ** *** * http://sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu * **** ** ** ** **** * * ** **** ** **** ** * now im nothing next motherfucker's * ** *** ** *** ** * - trent reznor gonna get my metal * * -marilyn manson ************************** Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.2 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:16:41 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 524 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.2 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:16:41 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 524 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago, IL 60634 The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \ K | | | | | | / E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox. Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era. Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose. Making the mixture: [1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible. [2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar. [3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio. It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned! High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev.2 by The Jolly Roger -------------Introduction------------- Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours. The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along. ---------Construction and Use--------- The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip. To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone. ------------Beige Box Uses------------ There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right). Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal. Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practicle aplications: > Eavesdropping > Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends > Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static) > Phucking people over > Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself > Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught > Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line. Eavesdropping ------------- To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number. Dialing Long Distance --------------------- This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA. Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing ------------------------------------------ Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more dificult to come by. Phucking People Over -------------------- This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the problem. Bothering the Operator ---------------------- This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? He he he... Blue Boxing ----------- See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line... ---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING---- Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you: > Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing, > Use more than one output device > Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments) > In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your teritory. Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content. ---------Jolly Roger How to make a CO2 bomb by the Jolly Roger You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger- Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time: - Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both. - Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive. - Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!). - Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right? - Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!) - Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams. - Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it... - Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite. - Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger- Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe: - Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!). - Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger- Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger - You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust. - Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient... - Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!! - Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!). NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly Roger- Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!! -Jolly Roger- -- ************************** christopher p. dilkus * * st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu * *** ** ** ** *** * http://sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu * **** ** ** ** **** * * ** **** ** **** ** * now im nothing next motherfucker's * ** *** ** *** ** * - trent reznor gonna get my metal * * -marilyn manson ************************** Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.3 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:17:10 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 615 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). - Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement! - Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.) - Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. - Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe. - Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... - Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. - Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this: ---- | | | | | | | < ---- Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!) Have Fun! -Jolly Roger- Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger - One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer...). - Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). - Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. - Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM. - Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. - Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! - Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist. - Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. - USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger- Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!) -Jolly Roger- Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN! -Jolly Roger- P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things! Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb! 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke! Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger (1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) Small amount of sugar Small amount of water Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city. -Jolly Roger- The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off! -Jolly Roger- How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger - Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. - Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. - Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time! -Jolly Roger- How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger Ingredients: - Newspaper - Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO) - Cotton - Diesel fuel Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger- Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger Ingredients: - Strike anywhere matches - A tennis ball - A nice sharp knife - Duct tape Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!! -Jolly Roger- Diskette Bombs by the Jolly Roger You need: - A disk - Scissors - White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!) - Clear nail polish - Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!) - Remove the cotton covering from the inside. - Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!) - After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk. - Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture - Let it dry - Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart). - When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger- Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!) When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down! -Jolly Roger- Fuses brought to you by The Jolly Roger You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable. SLOW BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute) Materials needed: - Cotton string or 3 shoelaces - Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate - Granulated sugar Procedure: - Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water - Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate 1 part granulated sugar 2 parts hot water - Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution - Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry - Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!! FAST BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute) Materials needed: -Soft cotton string -fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!) -shallow dish or pan Procedure: - moisten powder to form a paste - twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together - rub paste into string and allow to dry - Check the burn rate!!! How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make it: Materials needed: -3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material -1/2 cup of wood ashes -Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume -2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket -Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket -Shallow, heat resistant container -2 gallons of water -Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket -1 gallon of any type of alcohol -A heat source -Paper & tape Procedure: - Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom - Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom - Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness. - Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes - Place the dirt or other material in the bucket - Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked. - Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom. - Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom. - Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth! - Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so - Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom - Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form - When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let it sit - After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the posassium nitrate. Purification: - Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water - Remove any crystals that appear - Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness. - Spread out crystals and allow to dry Exploding lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: -lightbulb (100w) -socket (duh...) -1/4 cup soap chips -blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!) -1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline -adhesive tape -lighter or small blowtorch -glue Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads! - Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament! - Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!) - Get the hell out!! Procedure for a Napam Bulb: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler - Melt soap chips, stirring slowly. - Put somewhere and allow to cool - Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!! - Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid. - Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!! When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise! Have fun! -Jolly Roger- Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: -Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!) -Pack of matches -1 candle Procedure: - Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top. - Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER! - Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater - repeat to make as many as you want How to use them: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY! -Jolly Roger- Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe -5 feet of bellwire -1 SPST rocker switch -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack) -Electrical Tape -One free afternoon Procedure: - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily. - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /------ !lighter!!<---metal lever !!! !! Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top. - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!' - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top. 1--------------- v/ 2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside 3 the relay cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!) - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run! To Test: Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet. Have fun! -Jolly Roger- -- ************************** christopher p. dilkus * * st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu * *** ** ** ** *** * http://sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu * **** ** ** ** **** * * ** **** ** **** ** * now im nothing next motherfucker's * ** *** ** *** ** * - trent reznor gonna get my metal * * -marilyn manson ************************** Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.4 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:17:42 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 668 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu Chemical Equivalency list by the Jolly Roger Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda Sodium Borate................................................Borax Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to the phone line. First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA". If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have to hack your way onto this one! 700: 700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying. Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed it to. Neat, huh? 800: This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated (that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48 contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #. Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state) always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2- XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate at a NY CO. 800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the # associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of hours of calls made to their #. OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities: 1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number calls 2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls. 3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls. 4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling # is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA (ONI- Operator Number Identification). NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu Basic Alliance Teleconferencing Courtesy of the Jolly Roger Introduction: ------------ This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance Teleconferencing Systems.... it has many sections and for best use should be printed out...enjoy... Alliance: -------- Alliance Teleconferencing is an independant company which allows the general public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have been floating apound that Alliance is a subsidary of AT&T. Well, they are wrong. As stated above, Alliance is an entirely independant company. They use sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many people at once. The Number: --------- Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This, however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The numbers for alliance are as follows: 0-700-456-1000 (chicago) -1001 (los angeles) -1002 (chicago) -1003 (houston) -2000 (?) -2001 (?) -2002 (?) -2003 (?) -3000 (?) -3001 (?) -3002 (?) -3003 (?) The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and i have stated them. However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definately known. Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven. Dialing: ------- As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states can access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!! Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without having it billed to ones house. They are as follows: 1) Dialing through a PBX 2) Incorporating a Blue Box 3) Billing to a loop 4) Billing to a forwarded call I am sure there are many more but these are the four i will deal with. Dialing through a PBX: Path: calvino.alaska.net!nwnexus!scipio.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.drexel.edu!sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu!use From: st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Christopher P. Dilkus) Newsgroups: alt.engr.explosives Subject: post 3.6 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 08:20:10 -0500 Organization: Irresponsible Actions Unltd. Lines: 565 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sn225025.resnet.drexel.edu Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger PREFACE: THIS ARTICLE WILL FOCUS PRIMARILY ON THE STANDARD WESTERN ELECTRIC SINGLE- SLOT COIN TELEPHONE (AKA FORTRESS FONE) WHICH CAN BE DIVIDED INTO 3 TYPES: - DIAL-TONE FIRST (DTF) - COIN-FIRST (CF): (IE, IT WANTS YOUR $ BEFORE YOU RECEIVE A DIAL TONE) - DIAL POST-PAY SERVICE (PP): YOU PAYAFTER THE PARTY ANSWERS DEPOSITING COINS (SLUGS): ------------------------- ONCE YOU HAVE DEPOSITED YOUR SLUG INTO A FORTRESS, IT IS SUBJECTED TO A GAMUT OF TESTS. THE FIRST OBSTACAL FOR A SLUG IS THE MAGNETIC TRAP. THIS WILL STOP ANY LIGHT-WEIGHT MAGNETIC SLUGS AND COINS. IF IT PASSES THIS, THE SLUG IS THEN CLASSIFIED AS A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER. EACH SLUG IS THEN CHECKED FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE AND WEIGHT. IF THESE TESTS ARE PASSED, IT WILL THEN TRAVEL THROUGH A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER MAGNET AS APPROPRIATE. THESE MAGNETS SET UP AN EDDY CURRENT EFFECT WHICH CAUSES COINS OF THE APPROPRIATE CHARACTERISTICS TO SLOW DOWN SO THEY WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT TRAJECTORY. IF ALL GOES WELL, THE COIN WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT PATH (SUCH AS BOUNCING OFF OF THE NICKEL ANVIL) WHERE IT WILL HOPEFULLY FALL INTO THE NARROW ACCEPTED COIN CHANNEL. THE RATHER ELABORATE TESTS THAT ARE PERFORMED AS THE COIN TRAVELS DOWN THE COIN CHUTE WILL STOP MOST SLUGS AND OTHER UNDESIRABLE COINS, SUCH AS PENNIES, WHICH MUST THEN BE RETRIEVED USING THE COIN RELEASE LEVER. IF THE SLUG MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVES THE GAMUT, IT WILL THEN STRIKE THE APPROPRIATE TOTALIZER ARM CAUSING A RATCHET WHEEL TO ROTATE ONCE FOR EVERY 5-CENT INCREMENT (EG, A QUARTER WILL CAUSE IT TO ROTATE 5 TIMES). THE TOTALIZER THEN CAUSES THE COIN SIGNAL OSCILLATOR TO READOUT A DUAL- FREQUENCY SIGNAL INDICATING THE VALUE DEPOSITED TO ACTS (A COMPUTER) OR THE TSPS OPERATOR. THESE ARE THE SAME TONES USED BY PHREAKS IN THE INFAMOUS RED BOXES. FOR A QUARTER, 5 BEEP TONES ARE OUTPULSED AT 12-17 PULSES PER SECOND (PPS). A DIME CAUSES 2 BEEP TONES AT 5 - 8.5 PPS WHILE A NICKEL CAUSES ONE BEEP TONE AT 5 - 8.5 PPS. A BEEP CONSISTS OF 2 TONES: 2200 + 1700 HZ. A RELAY IN THE FORTRESS CALLED THE "B RELAY" (YES, THERE IS ALSO AN 'A RELAY') PLACES A CAPACITOR ACROSS THE SPEECH CIRCUIT DURING TOTALIZER READOUT TO PREVENT THE "CUSTOMER" FROM HEARING THE RED BOX TONES. IN OLDER 3 SLOT PHONES: ONE BELL (1050-1100 HZ) FOR A NICKEL, TWO BELLS FOR A DIME, AND ONE GONG (800 HZ) FOR A QUARTER ARE USED INSTEAD OF THE MODERN DUAL-FREQUENCY TONES. ============= =TSPS & ACTS= ============= WHILE FORTRESSES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CO OF THE AREA, ALL TRANSACTIONS ARE HANDLED VIA THE TRAFFIC SERVICE POSITION SYSTEM (TSPS). IN AREAS THAT DO NOT HAVE ACTS, ALL CALLS THAT REQUIRE OPERATOR ASSISTANCE, SUCH AS CALLING CARD AND COLLECT, ARE AUTOMATICALLY ROUTED TO A TSPS OPERATOR POSITION. IN AN EFFORT TO AUTOMATE FORTRESS SERVICE, A COMPUTER SYSTEM KNOWN AS AUTOMATED COIN TOLL SERVICE (ACTS) HAS BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANY AREAS. ACTS LISTENS TO THE RED BOX SIGNALS FROM THE FONES AND TAKES APPROPRIATE ACTION. IT IS ACTS WHICH SAYS, "TWO DOLLARS PLEASE (PAUSE) PLEASE DEPOSIT TWO DOLLARS FOR THE NEXT TEN SECONDS" (AND OTHER VARIATIONS). ALSO, IF YOU TALK FOR MORE THAN THREE MINUTES AND THEN HANG-UP, ACTS WILL CALL BACK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY. ACTS IS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR AUTOMATED CALLING CARD SERVICE. ACTS ALSO PROVIDE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR CRAFTSPEOPLE (REPAIRMEN SPECIALIZING IN FORTRESSES). FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS A COIN TEST WHICH IS GREAT FOR TUNING UP RED BOXES. IN MANY AREAS THIS TEST CAN BE ACTIVATED BY DIALING 09591230 AT A FORTRESS (THANKS TO KARL MARX FOR THIS INFORMATION). ONCE ACTIVATED IT WILL REQUEST THAT YOU DEPOSIT VARIOUS COINS. IT WILL THEN IDENTIFY THE COIN AND OUTPULSE THE APPROPRIATE RED BOX SIGNAL. THE COINS ARE USUALLY RETURNED WHEN YOU HANG UP. TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ACTUALLY MONEY IN THE FONE, THE CO INITIATES A "GROUND TEST" AT VARIOUS TIMES TO DETERMINE IF A COIN IS ACTUALLY IN THE FONE. THIS IS WHY YOU MUST DEPOSIT AT LEAST A NICKEL IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX! GREEN BOXES: ------------ PAYING THE INITIAL RATE IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX (ON CERTAIN FORTRESSES) LEFT A SOUR TASTE IN MANY RED BOXER'S MOUTHS THUS THE GREEN BOX WAS INVENTED. THE GREEN BOX GENERATES USEFUL TONES SUCH AS COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. THESE ARE THE TONES THAT ACTS OR THE TSPS OPERATOR WOULD SEND TO THE CO WHEN APPROPRIATE. UNFORTUNATELY, THE GREEN BOX CANNOT BE USED AT A FORTRESS STATION BUT IT MUST BE USED BY THE CALLED PARTY. HERE ARE THE TONES: COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 HZ COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 HZ RINGBACK 700 + 1700 HZ BEFORE THE CALLED PARTY SENDS ANY OF THESE TONES, AN OPERATOR RELEASED SIGNAL SHOULD BE SENT TO ALERT THE MF DETECTORS AT THE CO. THIS CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY SENDING 900 + 1500 HZ OR A SINGLE 2600 HZ WINK (90 MS) BACK AXLES BEING LOST TRYING TO TAKE DOWN A FONE! A QUICK AND DIRTY WAY TO OPEN THE COIN BOX IS BY USING A SHOTGUN. IN DETROIT, AFTER ECOLOGISTS CLEANED OUT A MUNICIPAL POND, THEY FOUND 168 COIN PHONE RIFLED. IN COLDER AREAS, SUCH AS CANADA, SOME SHREWD PEOPLE TAPE UP THE FONES USING DUCT TAPE, POUR IN WATER, AND COME BACK THE NEXT DAY WHEN THE WATER WILL HAVE FROZE THUS EXPANDING AND CRACKING THE FONE OPEN. IN ONE CASE, "UNAUTHORIZED COIN COLLECTORS" WHERE CAUGHT WHEN THEY BROUGHT $6,000 IN CHANGE TO A BANK AND THE BANK BECAME SUSPICIOUS... AT ANY RATE, THE MAIN LOCK IS AN EIGHT LEVEL TUMBLER LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE COIN BOX. THIS LOCK HAS 390,625 POSSIBLE POSITIONS (5 ^ 8, SINCE THERE ARE 8 TUMBLERS EACH WITH 5 POSSIBLE POSITIONS) THUS IT IS HIGHLY PICK RESISTANT! THE LOCK IS HELD IN PLACE BY 4 SCREWS. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT CLEARANCE TO THE RIGHT OF THE FONE, IT IS CONCEIVABLE TO PUNCH OUT THE SCREWS USING THE DRILLING PATTERN BELOW (PROVIDED BY ALEXANDER MUNDY IN TAP #32): ==================================== !! ^ !! ! ! 1- 3/16 " !! ! !<--- --->!! 1-1/2" -------------------- ! ! ! !! ! ! ! (+) (+)-! ----------- ---! !! ! ^ ! ! !! ! ! ! ! (Z) !! ! ! ! ! !! ! 2-3/16" ---! !! ! ! ! (+) (+) ! ! ! !! ! ! -------------------- ----------- !! !! (Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS !! =================================== AFTER THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED, THE LOCK CAN BE PUSHED BACKWARDS DISENGAGING THE LOCK FROM THE COVER PLATE. THE FOUR BOLTS OF THE COVER PLATE CAN THEN BE RETRACTED BY TURNING THE BOLTWORKS WITH A SIMPLE KEY IN THE SHAPE OF THE HOLE ON THE COIN PLATE (SEE DIAGRAM BELOW). OF COURSE, THERE ARE OTHER METHODS AND DRILLING PATTERNS. :-------------------------------------: _ ! ! ( ) !_! [ROUGHLY] DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE :-------------------------------------: THE TOP COVER USES A SIMILAR (BUT NOT AS STRONG) LOCKING METHOD WITH THE KEYHOLE DEPICTED ABOVE ON THE TOP LEFT HIDE AND A REGULAR LOCK (PROBABLY TUMBLER ALSO) ON THE TOP RIGHT-HAND SIDE. IT IS INTERESTING TO EXPERIMENT WITH THE COIN SHUTE AND THE FORTRESSES OWN "RED BOX" (WHICH BELL DIDN'T HAVE THE 'BALLS' TO COLOR RED). MISCELLANEOUS: -------------- IN A FEW AREAS (RURAL & CANADA), POST-PAY SERVICE EXISTS. WITH THIS TYPE OF SERVICE, THE MOUTHPIECE IS CUT OFF UNTIL THE CALLER DEPOSITS MONEY WHEN THE CALLED PARTY ANSWERS. THIS ALSO ALLOWS FOR FREE CALLS TO WEATHER AND OTHER DIAL-IT SERVICES! RECENTLY, 2600 MAGAZINE ANNOUNCED THE CLEAR BOX WHICH CONSISTS OF A TELEPHONE PICKUP COIL AND A SMALL AMP. IT IS BASED ON THEo RINCIPAL THAT THE RECEIVER IS ALSO A WEAK TRANSMITTER AND THAT BY AMPLIFYING YOUR SIGNAL YOU CAN TALK VIA THE TRANSMITTER THUS AVOIDING COSTLY TELEPHONE CHARGES! MOST FORTRESSES ARE FOUND IN THE 9XXX AREA. UNDER FORMER BELL AREAS, THEY USUALLY START AT 98XX (RIGHT BELOW THE 99XX OFFICIAL SERIES) AND MOVE DOWNWARD. SINCE THE LINE, NOT THE FONE, DETERMINES WHETHER OR NOT A DEPOSIT MUST BE MADE, DTF & CHARGE-A-CALL FONES MAKE GREAT EXTENSIONS! FINALLY, FORTRESS FONES ALLOW FOR A NEW HOBBY--INSTRUCTION PLATE COLLECTING. ALL THAT IS REQUIRED IS A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER AND A PAIR OF NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS. SIMPLY USE THE SCREWDRIVER TO LIFT UNDERNEATH THE PLATE SO THAT YOU CAN GRAB IT WITH THE PLIERS AND YANK DOWNWARDS. I WOULD SUGGEST COVERING THE TIPS OF THE PLIERS WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE TO PREVENT SCRATCHING. TEN CENT PLATES ARE DEFINITELY BECOMING A "RARITY!" FORTRESS SECURITY: ------------------ WHILE A LONELY FORTRESS MAY SEEM THE PERFECT TARGET, BEWARE! THE GESTAPO HAS BEEN KNOWN TO STAKE OUT FORTRESSES FOR AS LONG AS 6 YEARS ACCORDING TO THE GRASS ROOTS QUARTERLY. TO AVOID ANY PROBLEMS, DO NOT USE THE SAME FONES REPEATEDLY FOR BOXING, CALLING CARDS, & OTHER EXPERIMENTS. THE TELCO KNOWS HOW MUCH MONEY SHOULD BE IN THE COIN BOX AND WHEN ITS NOT THERE THEY TEND TO GET PERTURBED (READ: PISSED OFF). -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- --------Jolly Roger p.s. This was originally written back in my old Apple ][ days, hence the upper case. I just did not think I should waste the little time I have to work on this shit converting it to lower- case. Hell, I thought 80-columns was pretty nice of me.. heh heh. Well, enjoy this and the rest of this Cookbook! ---------JR Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger Introduction: ------------ At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20 Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start billing the person who called you. Function: -------- The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds. Materials: --------- 1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor 1 1.5V LED 1 SPST Switch Procedure: --------- (1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the case off. (2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with the Red Wire. (3) Connect the following in parallel: A. The Resistor and LED. B. The SPST Switch. In other words, you should end up with this: (Red Wire) !---/\/\/\--O--! (Line)-----! !-----(Phone) !-----_/_------! /\/\/\ = Resistor O = LED _/_ = SPST Use: --- The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off, your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings, the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls. Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour. ------------Jolly Roger p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky, then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) ----JR The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger (I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!) Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent phreakers around America has finally been conceived! Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box, here is a brief summery of a legend. --*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*-- For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available to the public. NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every direction. Have a nice day! --*-=>The Blotto Box: Aftermath<=-*-- Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea). ---------Jolly Roger Blowgun by The Jolly Roger In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of the blow gun described in this article IS a felony. So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted. Needed: 1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece) 2. A regular pencil 3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle. 4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter Constructing the dart: 1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil till it comes off. 2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape). 3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before. 4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration) ##### >>>>>-----/ # is the yarn > is the head of the pencil - is the pin it-self / is the head of the pin Using the Darts: 1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put on more yarn.) 2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect. 3rd- blow on the end of the pipe. 4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel a lot better. -------Jolly Roger Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?]. I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will make up for any minor volume loss. Here is the diagram: This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard. -----------Jolly Roger Ripping off Change Machines by the Jolly Roger Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. 1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in!!! 2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). 4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money! !--------------------------------! ! ! ! (1) /-------\ (1) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Pic. ! ! ! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) ! ! !! ! !-----/ \-----------------------! \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1) P.S. Sorry for the "text work" but you should be able to get the idea. Have fun!!! -----------------------Jolly Roger -- ************************** christopher p. dilkus * * st93lte8@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu