+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ | | + Explosives + | | + Edited by Joe + | | +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Pipe Bombs By The Mortician The first thing to do is get some gun powder, if you can buy it you are better off. You can get it at most gun shops if you are over 18, but if not then see the next section on how to make it. Now go down to a hardware store and buy lead piping about 4-6 inches long and 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches thick. Get two caps for each pipe. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe through one side, then put one cap on and fill the pipe up with powder. Put the other cap on. Stick a long fuse in the hole and use model glue or something to keep it in. Then light it and get away fast!!!!! The caps will usually fly off so if you have a target aim one of the caps at it and leave the other one 1/2 turn from fully tight. But still stand way out of range as this is very dangerous. Call the Morgue at (201) 376-4462 Another way that I have heard of seems that it might be less effective, but easier to make. Buy some pipe as said above, and put on of the caps on. Drop some sharp rocks into the bottom. Get a baby food jar, and fill it with vinegar. Screw the top on tightly, and slide it carefully down into the pipe. Now pour some baking soda into the pipe and put the other cap on. To start it, hit it sharply against the ground so that the rocks break the jar, then throw it. Wait two to five minutes and see what happens. I have never tested this, so I don't know if it works, although I've heard that it gets satisfying results. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Gun Powder By The Mortician The ingredients are: Potassium Nitrate: 85% Carbon(Charcol) : 12% Sulfur : 3% They are rough percentages but try a little like that and play with it. The more Potassium you add, the faster it will burn. The less sulfur, the slower. The less carbon, the less it will burn. What to do is just put them all in a mixing jar, I used a little cardboard box with low sides, and then ground it up and mix it together. You can get Potassium Nitrate at most drug stores. It is commonly known as Salt Peter. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin CH2ONO2 | 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2 CHONO2 ----------> + | Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2 CH2ONO2 (How Nitro explodes--note that the by products are nothing but nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen) Nitroglycerin (heretofore Nitro) is a very powerful high-explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't--the first person to make it probably blew himself up and his friend got the information off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. To make Nitro: Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thoroughly and the reaction could go too fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CAREFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediately. There will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it--this helps it not to go off spontainously. NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of specific gravity can be found in most chemistry books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positively STUPID to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself. (I added too much glycerine at a time) I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on, as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarbonate, you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite", but that was back in 1896. If you have any questions, comments or subpoenas, send E-mail. Karl Marx +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ How to Make a Working Letter Bomb By The Rebel Warhead Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making sure it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a bomb. Mixtures: About 75% Aluminum powder with 25% Iron powder is best. This is a light version of Thermite, since it is in an enclosed space (the envelope, as described below). Mix the above well. The idea is this: Iron can burn, at a very high temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what the Aluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it is used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the Aluminum, which then burns the Iron, at a suitable tempature. Since this is going off in an enclosed space, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violence than a normal mix. I advise you to play with this for a while, learning your mixture. Now for the fun stuff: Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. Seperate the layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture, one that you are satisfied with. Keep this section seperate. The outer layer can be either Magnesium, for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own choice. Now for the difficult part! The fuse. We can make a fuse from another set of chemicals: Iodine Crystals, and Amonium Hydroxide, in liquid form. You should mix these together, in about an equal amount, but you might want to use a heavy amount of Iodine if pressed for time. These form a new crystalline structure, about an inch long. These are highly violtile, and I advise keeping them protected. They have about the impact power of an M-100 for a teaspoon. I put these in a protective cardboard lining, and put them at the top of the envelope. Rig this so it puts pressure on the crytals when the package is opened, but not from just squeezing the envelope. This is tricky, and I can't explain it here. Seal this up, and you have a working letter bomb. By the way, since the bulk of letter bombs are easily recognizable, they rarely make it past the post office. ***************************************************************************** * I frown upon the use of letter bombs as a means of getting even because* *you never know who it is going detonate around, or that it will even be * *them. There are simpler ways of getting even, so take one of them. It is * *also a federal offence to make and send one. Procede at you own risk. * ***************************************************************************** How to avoid letter bombs: Since you made it this far into the file, I will tell you how to avoid being detonated with a letter bomb you may have had sent to you. 1) Never open a letter bomb the way it wants to be opened! This is the way of possible avoiding the fuse. If it is set to detonate on contact with air, then this will not work. 2) Don't squeeze, bend, or anything! 3) If if looks like a bomb, then don't even touch it! This is the best way to avoid problems! +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Blowing up a Car An Article from the Book: The Poor Man's James Bond By Kurt Saxon NOTE - THIS ARTICLE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO PSYCH OUT THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACTICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE IN MIND, THEN READ ON: The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood. Explosives are placed as near the occupants as possible. The fuse, homemade, commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around the exhaust manifold. After a few minutes on the road the exhaust manifold gets almost red hot and ignites the fuse. This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up on the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't. Besides, if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the driver may start the engine before the passenger gets into the car. You can see how embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you? Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too set in thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a car blow up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the road. They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electric wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blasting cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connected to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the input side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the car's frame as a ground. This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough, there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to a ground. This usually results in misfires and no end of frustrations. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Soft Drink Can Bomb An Article from the Book: The Poor Man's James Bond By Kurt Saxon This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on a passersby. It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! || || || <-chemical ingiter ____||___ | !! | | ----- | |%| | | | | |%| | | | | <- big firecracker | | | | | ----- | |% | | % | | %| | % | <- nuts & bolts | % | |_______| +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Making Thermite By X Calibur Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open a Fortress Fone. Now here's how you make it, it is very simple. The first step in making Thermite is to make Hematite. In layman's terms, Hematite is Iron Oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. To do this you will need a source of DC power. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the POSITIVE wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. The other ingrediant you will need is aluminum filings. You can either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at your local hardware store. (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure aluminum. It is called Duralumin.) That's almost it. Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings. That's Thermite! Now, to light it. Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the Thermite. (Either steal it from a chemistry lab or buy it at your local hardware store. If you can't, order it from a chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap.) The ribbon should stick into the Thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch. (Don't worry. The torch isn't hot enough to light the Thermite.) When the burning magnesium reaches the Thermite, it will light. When the Thermite burns, get the hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel. It does wonders on human flesh. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ | Call the Noble House (415) 365-5073 Call the Roman Forum (415) 328-5916 | +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 The Salted Slug Strange 408-454-9368 Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662 Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 415-961-9315 My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078 New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126 Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, arcane knowledge, political extremism, diverse sexuality, insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X