002: Credit Card Fraud 003: Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach 004: Picking Master Locks 005: The Arts of Lockpicking I 006: The Arts of Lockpicking II 007: Solidox Bombs 008: High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox 009: CO2 Bombs 010: Thermite Bombs 011: Touch Explosives 012: Letter Bombs 013: Paint Bombs 014: Ways to send a car to HELL 015: Do ya hate school? 016: Phone related vandalism 017: Highway police radar jamming 018: Smoke Bombs 019: Mail Box Bombs 020: Hotwiring cars 021: Napalm 022: Fertilizer Bomb 023: Tennis Ball Bomb 024: Diskette Bombs 025: Unlisted Phone Numbers 026: Fuses 027: How to make Potassium Nitrate 028: Exploding Lightbulbs 029: Under water igniters 030: Home-brew blast cannon 031: Chemical Equivalency List 032: Phone Taps 033: Landmines 034: A different kind of Molitov Cocktail 035: Phone Systems Tutorial I 036: Phone Systems Tutorial II @@@ @ @ @@@ @ @@@ @ @ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @ @@@ @@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @@ @ @ @ / @@ @@ @ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @ @ presents: ******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **** ***** ** ** ** ** **** v1.0 ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** ** ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card examples: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: [1] An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. [2] Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. [3] People's houses Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck! *---------------------------------------* | | | MAKING PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES FROM BLEACH | | | *---------------------------------------* Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows. First off, you must obtain: [1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) [2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer [3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) [4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores) Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article. You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042 Odessa, Texas 79762 *-----------------------* | | | PICKING MASTER LOCKS | | | *-----------------------* Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). The Arts of Lockpicking I *-----------------------------------------------* | | | LOCKPICKING I: CARS AND ASSORTED OTHER LOCKS | | | *-----------------------------------------------* While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago, IL 60634 The Arts of Lockpicking II So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \ K | | | | | | / E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice. *---------------* | | | SOLIDOX BOMBS | | | *---------------* Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox. Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era. Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose. Making the mixture: [1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible. [2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar. [3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio. It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned! *----------------------------------* | | | HIGH TECH REVENGE: THE BEIGEBOX | | | *----------------------------------* The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along. Making a beigebox: Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire. Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content. Connecting the beigebox: Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their house. Follow the wires, and find where they connect. The telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you like having a permanent orange afro. When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box. Some boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now, you must open the box, and observe: you should see three bolts, each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone. If you do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections. By the way, don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough power in the phone lines to harm you. After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even, pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a $100 dollar service charge for your enemy. Use your imagination! *------------------------* | | | HOW TO MAKE A CO2 BOMB | | | *------------------------* You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger- *-------------------------------* | | | A BETTER WAY TO MAKE THERMITE | | | *-------------------------------* Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time: - Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both. - Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive. - Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!). - Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right? - Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!) - Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams. - Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it... - Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite. - Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger- *--------------------* | | | TOUCH EXPLOSIVES | | | *--------------------* This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe: - Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!). - Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger- *---------------* | | | LETTER BOMBS | | | *---------------* - You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust. - Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient... - Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!! - Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human *---------------* | | | PAINT BOMBS | | | *---------------* To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!! -Jolly Roger- *-----------------------------* | | | WAYS TO SEND A CAR TO HELL | | | *-----------------------------* There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). - Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement! - Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.) - Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. - Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe. - Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... - Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. - Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this: ---- | | | | | | | < ---- Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!) *--------------------* | | | DO YA HATE SCHOOL? | | | *--------------------* - One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer...). - Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). - Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. - Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM. - Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. - Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! - Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist. - Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. *-------------------------* | | | PHONE RELATED VANDALISM | | | *-------------------------* If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!) -Jolly Roger- *-----------------------* | | | HIGHWAY RADAR JAMMING | | | *-----------------------* Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN! -Jolly Roger- P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things! *-------------* | | | SMOKE BOMBS | | | *-------------* Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb! 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke! Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger (1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) Small amount of sugar Small amount of water Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city. -Jolly Roger- *---------------------------------* | | | THE EASIEST WAY TO HOTWIRE CARS | | | *---------------------------------* Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off! -Jolly Roger- *--------------------* | | | HOW TO MAKE NAPALM | | | *--------------------* - Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. - Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. - Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time! *-------------------------------* | | | HOW TO MAKE A FERTILIZER BOMB | | | *-------------------------------* Ingredients: - Newspaper - Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO) - Cotton - Diesel fuel Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger- *-------------------* | | | TENNIS BALL BOMBS | | | *-------------------* Ingredients: - Strike anywhere matches - A tennis ball - A nice sharp knife - Duct tape Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!! -Jolly Roger- *----------------* | | | DISKETTE BOMBS | | | *----------------* You need: - A disk - Scissors - White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!) - Clear nail polish - Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!) - Remove the cotton covering from the inside. - Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!) - After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk. - Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture - Let it dry - Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart). - When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger- *------------------------* | | | UNLISTED PHONE NUMBERS | | | *------------------------* There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!) When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down! -Jolly Roger- *-------* | | | FUSES | | | *-------* You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable. SLOW BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute) Materials needed: - Cotton string or 3 shoelaces - Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate - Granulated sugar Procedure: - Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water - Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate 1 part granulated sugar 2 parts hot water - Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution - Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry - Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!! FAST BURNING FUSE ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute) Materials needed: -Soft cotton string -fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!) -shallow dish or pan Procedure: - moisten powder to form a paste - twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together - rub paste into string and allow to dry - Check the burn rate!!! *-------------------------------* | | | HOW TO MAKE POTASSIUM NITRATE | | | *-------------------------------* Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make it: Materials needed: -3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material -1/2 cup of wood ashes -Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume -2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket -Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket -Shallow, heat resistant container -2 gallons of water -Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket -1 gallon of any type of alcohol -A heat source -Paper & tape Procedure: - Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom - Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom - Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness. - Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes - Place the dirt or other material in the bucket - Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked. - Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom. - Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom. - Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth! - Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so - Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom - Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form - When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let it sit - After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the posassium nitrate. Purification: - Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water - Remove any crystals that appear - Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness. - Spread out crystals and allow to dry *----------------------* | | | EXPLODING LIGHTBULBS | | | *----------------------* Materials needed: -lightbulb (100w) -socket (duh...) -1/4 cup soap chips -blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!) -1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline -adhesive tape -lighter or small blowtorch -glue Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads! - Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament! - Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!) - Get the hell out!! Procedure for a Napam Bulb: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler - Melt soap chips, stirring slowly. - Put somewhere and allow to cool - Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!! - Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid. - Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!! When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise! *----------------------* | | | UNDER WATER IGNITERS | | | *----------------------* Materials needed: -Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!) -Pack of matches -1 candle Procedure: - Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top. - Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER! - Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater - repeat to make as many as you want How to use them: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY! -Jolly Roger- *------------------------* | | | HOME BREW BLAST CANNON | | | *------------------------* Materials needed: -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe -5 feet of bellwire -1 SPST rocker switch -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack) -Electrical Tape -One free afternoon Procedure: - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily. - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /------ !lighter!!<---metal lever !!! !! Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top. - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!' - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top. 1--------------- v/ 2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside 3 the relay cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!) - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run! To Test: Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet. *---------------------------* | | | CHEMICAL EQUIVALENCY LIST | | | *---------------------------* Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda Sodium Borate................................................Borax Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol *------------* | | | PHONE TAPS | | | *------------* Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to the phone line. First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be hooked up to a transmitter or be wired. Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone: A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the cubes fall away unnoticed. A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online! Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!). Here is the schematic: -------)!----)!(-------------> )!( Cap ^ )!( )!( )!( )!( ^^^^^---)!(-------------> ^ 100K ! ! Ask to speak to their supervisor... or better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse. By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the 4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator. Office Hierarchy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it (known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)). The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America: Class Name Abb # Existing ----- ----------------------- --- ----------------- > 1 Regional Center RC 12 > 2 Sectional Center SC 67 > 3 Primary Center PC 230 > 4 Toll Center TC 1,300 > 4P Toll Point TP n/a > 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a > 5 End Office EO 19,000 > 6 RSU RSU n/a When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!). It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way to really screw up the network]. The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below: Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA -------------------------------- --- Dallas 4 ESS 214 Wayne, PA 215 Denver 4T 303 Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306 St. Louis 4T 314 Rockdale, GA 404 Pittsburgh 4E 412 Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504 That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger- /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ ^ ___ ^ ( (-----) | | | ___ ) \ | |__| |__ ( |\ | |\ / \ | | | | | | \ | | \ / \ | | | |___ |__ | \ | | ) / \ | | \| | / / \ (___ | | |/ / \ / \ / \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662 Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078 New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126 Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, arcane knowledge, political extremism, diverse sexuality, insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X