PYRO1.TXT Preparation of Contact Explosives This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it. Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read 'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly before starting anything. Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following: 1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of water before weighing the next ingredient. 3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment. 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another ingredient. 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away from yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid sparks or static. Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. 6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the contents down. 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably locked away. 8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable. 10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system. 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode dust floating in the air. 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, hose, etc.) 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance. 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Some information will be included in each file, but look for whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff. 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload or reuse any dud. 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are doing and leave until it settles. 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't drop them, or even handle them roughly. These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly. The contact explosives we will be describing use only a few chemicals. Some do need extra caution to keep from causing trouble. Iodine Crystals Though most people don't realize it, Iodine is not a brown liquid, but a steel-grey solid. The tincture of iodine you buy at the drugstore actually contains just a tiny bit of iodine dissolved in a jarful of inexpensive alcohol, and resold at a huge mark up. We'll be using iodine in the crystalline form. On contact with your skin, it will produce a dark stain that won't wash off with soap and water. We'll talk about removing these stains later. If it gets hot, it vaporizes into a purple cloud, that smells like the chlorine in a swimming pool. This cloud is dangerous to inhale, since it will condense in your lungs, and is corrosive. Since we won't need to heat this stuff, it is not a problem, but you should make sure that you don't let any iodine crystals spill onto a hot surface. If you don't touch it and keep it away from your face, you shouldn't have any troubles. Ammonium Hydroxide This is just good old household ammonia. Be sure to get the clear kind. The sudsy stuff won't be too useful. It is made from ammonia gas dissolved in water, and every time you open the bottle, it loses some of its strength, so be sure to use fresh stuff. We need it to be as strong as possible. Some of the formulas given here use lab grade concentrated ammonium hydroxide. It is much stronger than the supermarket kind, and is very unkind to skin or especially the eyes. It is a good idea to wear eye protection with even the supermarket grade. Though we don't usually worry about this when using household ammonia for cleaning, we usually dilute it for that. Here we'll be using it straight out of the bottle, and it is much more corrosive in that form. Never use this material if you don't have real good ventilation, as the ammonia vapors can be overpowering. Potassium Iodide This is a reasonably safe chemical. You get Potassium ions in some of the fruit you eat, and Iodide ions (usually as Sodium Iodide) are added to the table salt you buy at the store. So, while you don't directly eat this chemical, you do eat the components that make it up. Don't be scared of this stuff. Sodium Thiosulfate Otherwise known as photographic hypo. When dissolved in water, this will remove the iodine stains left by touching iodine crystals, and exploding contact explosive. Not particularly nasty stuff, but make sure to wash it off after cleaning yourself with it. General Information This is a powerful and highly sensitive explosive. A dust sized particle will make a sharp crack or popping sound. A piece the size of a pencil lead will produce an explosion as loud as any of the largest firecrackers or cherry bombs. It cannot be exploded by any means when wet, and therefore can be handled and applied with safety. When dry, it will explode with the touch of a feather, or a breath of air. The strength of the ammonia water you use will have a direct effect on the strength of the final product. If you use supermarket ammonia, the explosive will work, but not as spectacularly as if you use a 15% or higher (10 to 15 molar) solution. The stronger it is, the better. You'll also need filter paper, and a funnel. A properly folded coffee filter will do nicely if you don't have the filter paper. If you're not sure how to fold filter paper, check an elementary chemistry textbook. Methods of Preparation 1.) Granular Explosive. This is the easiest kind, and the only kind that will work reasonably well with supermarket ammonia. Crush enough iodine crystals to make a pile of powder equal to the volume of a pencil eraser. Do not grind into a fine powder. Put about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of strong ammonia water into a small container with the iodine, and seal it for about 5 to 10 minutes, shaking frequently. While the mixture is reacting, get your filter paper ready. While it is best to consult a book that shows how to do this, you take the circle of filter paper, fold it in half, fold it again at right angles to the first fold, and then open it to form a cone. Open or close it as needed to make it conform to the angle of the funnel, and moisten it a little to make it stick in place. Place the funnel over a container that will catch the waste liquid. Let the mixture settle long enough for the sediment to settle, and pour off as much of the clear liquid as possible before filtering the sediment. Pour the remaining liquid and sediment into the filter. The sediment (and the filter paper covered with it!!!) is your explosive. The small amount you have made will go a lot farther than you realize. Particularly if you used good strong ammonia. Place the explosive in an airtight leakproof pill bottle. As this explosive is unstable by nature, fresh amounts give better results than stale ones that have been sitting around for a day or so. Best results are obtained with small fresh batches. But as you'll see, there are a few tricks you can do with this material that do require it to sit for a day or more. The explosive should be stored and applied while wet. 2.) Paint type explosive. This will use up a lot of iodine crystals. Make up a strong tincture of iodine using about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, or wood alcohol. Wood alcohol is preferable. Add iodine crystals and shake thoroughly until no more will dissolve. Pour the liquid into a fruit jar. Add the ammonium hydroxide and stir the mixture until the mixture is a chocolate brown and shows a little of the original color of the iodine. The amount of ammonia necessary will depend on its strength. An equal volume of ammonia is usually sufficient for a 15% or higher solution. The solution should be filtered at once, and shouldn't ever wait more than 10 or 15 minutes, because it starts to dissolve again. The explosive again should be stored and applied while wet. This material is chemically the same as the granular explosive, but because it was precipitated from a solution, it is much more finely divided, and the reaction happens almost simultaneously, so you can get it out before it all vanishes back into the solution. 3.) Paint type #2. Dissolve 1 gram of potassium iodide in about 90cc of 18%-22% ammonium hydroxide. Add 4 grams of pulverized iodine. A deep black sediment should start forming. Let stand, and stir frequently for five minutes. Then, filter as usual. While the potassium iodide is not an integral part of the chemical reaction, the dissolved potassium iodide will allow the iodine crystals in turn to dissolve, and its common ion effect will cause less iodine crystals to be wasted. Since the iodine is by far the most expensive ingredient, you'll save money in the long run by using it. Care in Handling And Storage Because this material is so unstable it deteriorates quickly. Don't make any more than you need to use in the next 24 hours. If you can't use it all immediately, the container you keep it in should be recapped tightly after use and the mouth wiped clean. The explosive can cause dark stain damage to things as rugs, clothing, chair seats, wallpaper, and light or clear plastics. A strong solution of sodium thiosulfate is effective for removing stains from hands and clothing before they set. Never leave the container of explosive in direct sunlight for more than a few minutes, as it will weaken the strength. Do NOT attempt to make a large explosion as it is dangerous and can cause deafness. All equipment used should be thoroughly washed and the used filter paper flushed down the toilet. Under no circumstances attempt to handle the dried material which is extremely explosive and hazardous. If you can avoid storing the material in a container at all, there will be no chance that a loose stopper will let the material dry out and become a potential bomb. Tiny bits of this can be great fun, but it has to be handled with care. Application Although largely a scientific curiosity, this explosive finds itself well suited for practical jokes. It may easily be painted on the bottom side of light switches, sprinkled on floors, painted in keyholes, pencil sharpeners, doorknobs and in hundreds of other unsuspected places. It is also ideal for catching locker thieves and desk prowlers. It will leave a dark stain on his hands when it explodes, and only you will know how to remove it. Reaction Equations Ammonium Ammonium Ammonium Nitrogen Iodine Hydroxide Iodide Tri Iodide Water 3I + 5NH OH ---> 3NH I + NH NI + 5H O 2 4 4 3 3 2 The theoretical yield of explosive from pure iodine is 54.1% by weight. The remainder of the iodine may be recovered for reuse from the ammonium iodide waste product by evaporating the waste liquid and treating with chlorine if a chemistry lab is available. The contact explosive is Ammonium Nitrogen Tri-Iodide, which explodes into iodine, nitrogen, and ammonia. Ammonium Nitrigen Tri-Iodide Iodine Nitrogen Ammonia 2NH NI ---> 3I + N + 2NH 3 3 2 2 3 Some Clever Uses For This Material 1.) Contact Explosive Torpedos. Get some gelatin capsules, the kind pills are made of. Fill the small half with uncooked dry tapioca until it is half full. Then place a wet blob of contact explosive about 4 times the size of a straight pin head on top of it. Either the granular or paint type explosive will work. The capsule is then filled the rest of the way up with tapioca until, when the capsule is put together, the grains of tapioca are packed tightly, and none are loose. If this is not done properly, the torpedos could go off prematurely, and the joke would be on you. The torpedos are then moistened at the joints to seal them and stored until the next day. They are not sensitive enough until the next day and too sensitive the day after, so plan your activities accordingly. These torpedos are the most fiendish devices made. You can lay one on top of a door, where it will roll off when the door is opened, and it will explode on contact with the floor. If you toss one some distance away it will appear as if someone else was responsible for the explosion. These torpedos are ideal as booby traps or for pulling practical jokes with. They may be carried in a small box filled with cotton until needed. Just treat the box gently, and all will be well. 2.Contact Explosive Booby Traps. Prepare a small amount of contact explosive. Cut strips of newspaper 1 1/2 inches wide and 1 foot long. Cut a piece of string 1 foot long. Put a small amount of wet contact explosive on the strip of paper 1 inch from the end. Double the string. Now pull one end of the string back until there is a double loop in the string about 1 inch long. Do not tie. Lay this double loop across the wet contact explosive and tightly roll the paper and glue the end. Put away for a few days until thoroughly dry. When dry, pull the ends of the string and the booby trap will explode. The strings, when pulled, rub against the dry contact explosive, and make it explode. Getting The Materials There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order the materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over 21 and won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here. Note that the people who run these supply houses know what Iodine Crystals and Ammonium Hydroxide can do when mixed together, and if you order both from the same place, or in the same order, it may arouse some suspicion. Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science for the current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not all sell every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can break the orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are used to selling to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce lots, while others prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their wares in 1 or 5 pound jugs. Split up your orders according to the quantities of each item you think you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine Crystals will cost three or four dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a long way. If you had to buy that by the pound, you might just want to forget the whole thing. ---> PYRO2.TXT Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives <-- We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite dangerous. Please read the following information carefully. Sodium Azide - NaN 3 This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it gently. Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO ) 3 2 This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one afternoon. Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO 4 3 Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here. Potassium Nitrate - KNO 3 Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture burn. Potassium Potassium Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen 2KNO ---> 2KNO + O 3 2 2 Potassium Chlorate - KClO 3 A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium Chlorate is also poisonous. Potassium Potassium Chlorate Chloride Oxygen 2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O 3 2 Aluminum Dust Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an open flame. Zinc Dust Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled. Lampblack This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using this. Sulfur A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself. Potassium Permanganate An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine. If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!! Gum Arabic A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass. Sodium Peroxide A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it touch your skin. Glycerine A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff. Iodine Crystals Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and notice the odor, you should leave the area. Touch Paper This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else. Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere. Self Igniting Mixtures Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated. Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done. Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn. This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately before you plan to use it. Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your skin, for example.) Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc. Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this mixture. Percussion Explosives This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT more sensitive than the ones shown here. Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a loud report. Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above, Potassium Chlorate 6 Lampblack 4 Sulfur 1 Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only. Lead Azide Pb(N ) 3 2 Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already mentioned. It is very easy to make. Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about 3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms. The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water. It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make the filter paper explosive. Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a couple of grams at one time. Reaction Equations Lead Sodium Lead Sodium Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO 3 2 3 3 2 3 Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff. Dump it out. To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of touch paper in the following shape ----------------------------- ! ! ! ! ! --------------- ! ! ! --------------- ! ! ! ! ----------------------------- Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will produce a fairly loud explosion. A Lead Azide Booby Trap Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z" should be about one inch long. -------------------------------------. . . . -------------------------------------------------- Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2 tries to show what this will look like. -------------//////////////////----------------- Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure 3. ------------------------- ! ! ----------! !------------------- ! ! ------------------------- Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope, and set it off from a distance. The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so store these separately and keep them padded well. Getting The Chemicals As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates, nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind, and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs to cover your tracks. DO it! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- HOW TO MAKE HOME EXPLOSIVES -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=- Complied by: The Outlaw =-=-=-= Received from: The Beta Pirate -=-=- =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Files in this File ------------------------------ T 081 IMPROVISED MUNITIONS T 021 PIPE BOMBS T 008 SOFTDRINK BOMBS T 012 HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB T 014 HOW TO MAKE TNT T 007 SPLATTER BOMB T 008 PRYO FUN T 016 CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH (>View: SPLATTER BOMB =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ \ WEEKLY EXPLOSIVE \ __ __ _ ____ __ +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ \ /_ /\ /_//\///\ // /_ /\ HOW TO MAKE A MINE \ / \// \/ // /// /_ /_/ +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ / ___ __ __ _ _ __ CREATED AND TYPED BY / //\ /_// / / / \\ <__ THE MAD BOMBER / / \/ /_//_/ \_ \_/ \_ __> AND / THE ARCHER / By WHITE CHINA +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ Ok, here is a simple, but effective mines to do on your enemy: 1. Get a pie tin. 2. Put some kind of explosive powder on the bottom of it. 3. Put a hole near the very bottom, and stick a model rocket igniter in it, so it touches the powder. 4. Next, put a round piece of cardboard over the powder. 5. Put a layer of BB's or Buckshot on top of the cardboard. 6. Finally, cover the pie tin with a piece of aluminum foil. HERE'S A DRAWING(KINDA): \------------------------------/ <-FOIL \oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo/ <-BB'S \_________________________/<-CARDBOARD \***********************/<-EXPLOSIVE \_____________________== <-IGNITER Hook two wires to the igniter and run the wire back to safety When somebody get near to it, touch the two wires to a 9-volt battery, and... BOOM... BB'S fly everywhere! Possibly (probably) getting where it hurts the most......... *Be sure you are a good distance away THE PHREAK SHOW.....(303) 979-7992 ==> UPLOADED BY THE RAT <== (>READ: PRYO FUN _________________________________ [ ] [ HOME EXPLOSIVES ] [ ] [ FROM: INGY ] [ ] [_________________________________] P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF... ....................................... ->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA 2) WAIT OVERNIGHT 3) POUR OFF THE LIQUID 4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CONCRETE) 5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT! ->SMOKE BOMBS<- ^^^^^ ^^^^^ 1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR --------------------- 6 PARTS SALTPETER 2) PUT IN TIN CAN, ONTO LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER) 3) LET GEL & HARDEN 4) PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE. 5) LIGHT IT & RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK... ->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASIUM CHLORIDE --------------------------- 1 PART VASELINE 2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. ->CAR BOMB<- ^^^ ^^^^ 1) PUT LIQUID DRAINO INTO A PILL BOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON A PRESCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK) 2) CLOSE THE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK. 3) WAIT 5 MIN. 4) RUN ->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES<- ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE ------------------ 1 PART GASOLINE 2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE. (>View: CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-> WELCOME TO THE DR. MAD <-=-= -=-=-> CHEMISTRY CLASS <-=-= -=-=-> EACH WEEK I WILL POST NEW <-=-= -=-=-> FORMULAS AND INSTRUCTIONS <-=-= -=-=-> ON TERRORIST DEVICES AND <-=-= -=-=-> EXPLOSIVES <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-> FORMATTED FOR 80 COLUMNS <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-> THE AUTHOR TAKES <-=-= -=-=-> ABSOLUTELY NO <-=-= -=-=-> RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE <-=-= -=-=-> USE OF THIS MATERIAL <-=-= -=-=-> IT IS ALL CONSIDERED <-=-= -=-=-> EXTREMELY DANGEROUS <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-> READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE<-=-= -=-=-> STARTING <-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= MATERIALS: CALCIUM CARBIDE, A TIN COKE CAN, RUBBER CEMENT, WATER, MEDIUM SIZED TEST TUBE THAT WILL FIT COMFORTABLY WITHIN THE TIN CAN, A CORK WIDER THAN THE MOUTHPIECE OF THE TIN CAN AND A KNIFE LOCATION OF CONSTRUCTION: OUTDOORS SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS: DON'T LET ANY HUMIDITY OF WATER CONTACT THE CALCIUM CARBIDE THIS WEEK WE'LL START WITH AN UPGRADED VERSION OF THE CARBIDE BOMB WELL A CARBIDE BOMB CONSISTS OF A BASIC CHEMICAL REACTION BETWEEN CALCIUM CARBIDE AND H2O. WELL FIRST GO TO ANY HARDWARE STORE AND BUY CALCIUM CARBIDE. THEY SHOULD HAVE IT BECAUSE CARBIDE CAMPING LAMPS USE THE STUFF. THE STUFF SHOULD LOOK LIKE SMALL PIECE BOOM! FIG. 1 TOP VIEW OF THE CAN --------------- - - - !-----!------- PLACE CORK IN OPENING - !-----! - PUT GLUE AROUND CRACKS - - --------------- FIG.2 CORK WEDGE ---------- \ ______ / \ /------- WEDGE IT WITH A KNIFE RIGHT HERE ------ FIG. 3 COKE CAN GRENADE OVER VIEW _ \ /---- CORK ----------- ! _ ! ! ( ) ! ! ( )------ TEST TUBE WITH WATER ! ( ) ! !****( )**------ CALCIUM CARBIDE !*********! ----------- THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF THIS SYSTEM DIDN'T WORK AS WELL AS THIS. IT'S UP TO YOU TO JUDGE FOR YOURSELF. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-> WELL THAT'S THIS WEEKS <=-=-= -=-=-> CHEMISTRY CLASS <=-=-= -=-=-> DO YOUR HOMEWORK <=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= NOW WE'LL WARP YOU BACK TO THE MATERIALISTIC WORLD OF NIHILISTIC VALUES... (>View: IMPROVISED MUNITIONS _______________________________________ ! ! ! The Beta Pirate ! ! Presents ! ! ! ! Improvised Munitions Handbook ! ! --------------------------------- ! ! (Army Technical Manual TM 31-210) ! !_____________________________________! INTRODUCTION ------------ "In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible to use conventional military munitions... It may be necessary instead to fabricate the required munitions from locally available materials... The purpose of this Manual is to increase the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail the manufacture of munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials." "Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to assure saftey and reliability... Saftey warnings are prominently inserted in the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that SAFETEY IS A MATTER OF ATTITUDE." ---------------------------------------------------------------------- SECTION I: EXPLOSIVES ---------------------------------------------------------------------- PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER -- This explosive can be detonated with commercial #8 blasting cap. MATERIALS: ---------- Potassium Chloride Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) Round stick or rolling pin Container for mixing ingredients PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Spread Potassium Chloride crystals on a hard surface. Roll round stick over crystals to crush into find powder until it looks roughly like wheat flower. 2) Place 9 parts powdered potassium chloride and 1 part petroleum jelly in mixing container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead) until a uniform paste is obtained. Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- POTASSIUM NITRATE -- Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder, and other pyrotechnics. MATERIALS: ---------- Nitrate bearing earth ( fertile soil containing decayed matter, dirt from burial grounds, etc..), about 3-1/2 gallons. Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup Bucket, 5 gallon or so 2 pieces cloth larger than bottom of bucket Shallow pan at least as large as bottom of bucket Shallow heat resistant container Water, 1-3/4 gallons Awl or screwdriver 1 gallon alcohol (rubbing alcohol is ok) Heat source, Paper, Tape PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside of bucket. 2) Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of the ashes. 3) Place dirt in bucket. 4) Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks. 5) Boil water and pour it over dirt in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water goes through ALL of the dirt. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours. 6) Drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge in bottom of container. 7) Boil mixture over fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc.). 8) When liquid has boiled down to half its original volume, remove from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of alcohol. When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals (potassium nitrate) will collect on top of it. 9) To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible amount of water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7); pour through filter and evaporate or gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness. 10) Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now ready for use. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- IMPROVISED BLACK POWDER -- Black powder can be made in a simple, safe manner. It can be used as blasting or gun powder. MATERIALS: ---------- Potassium Nitrate, Granulated, 3 Cups (see above) Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup Alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc) Water, 3 cups Heat source 2 buckets, 2 gallons each, one of which is heat resistant Flat window screening, 1 foot square Large wooden stick Cloth, 2 feet square PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Place alcohol in one of the buckets 2) Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water & mix thoroughly with stick until all ingredients are dissolved. 3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form. CAUTION: Don't boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is dry it may ignite!! 4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously. 5) Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid. 6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen. NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6. 7) Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder. CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder is now ready for use. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- NITRIC ACID -- Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers. MATERIALS: ---------- 2 parts Potassium Nitrate, see above for improvised P.N. 1 part CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (from car battery) 2 bottles or ceramic jugs, narrow necks are preferable Frying pan Heat source Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc..but not cellophane!) Paper or rags IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from car battery, concentrate it by boiling until white fumes appear. Don't inhale the fumes!! PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste if formed. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. Fumes are also dangerous and shouldn't be inhaled. 2) Wrap paper or rags around the necks of two bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces. 3) Support bottles on rocks or cans so that the empty bottle is SLIGHTLY lower than the bottle containing plaster so that the nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not flow into other bottle. 4) Build fire in frying pan. 5) Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire back and forth underneath the bottle. As red fumes appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle. CAUTION: Don't overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added precaution place the bottle to be heated in a can filled with sand or gravel. Heat the outer container to make nitric acid. 6) Continue above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is cloudy pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6. CAUTION: Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a sealed ceramic or glass container. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE -- An explosive can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel or motor oil and gasoline. MATERIALS: ---------- Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio) Two flat boards Bucket Iron or steel pipe Blasting cap Wooden rod, 1/4 inch diameter Spoon PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into very fine powder that looks like flour (around 10 min.) 2) Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc..) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil isn't available, use one half measure gasoline and one half measure motor oil. Store in waterproof container until ready to use. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- CARBON TET EXPLOSIVE -- A moist explosive mixture cab be made from fine aluminum powder and carbon tetrachloride. MATERIALS: ---------- Fine aluminum bronzing powder (from paint store) Carbon Tetrachloride Stirring rod, mixing container, measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc..), storage container NOTE: If you can't find carbon tet, look in your schools chemistry or biology rooms and "borrow" some. PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Measure two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tet liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the wooden rod. 2) Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup. CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled. 3) Store explosive in jar or other waterproof container until ready to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FERTILIZER AN-AL EXPLOSIVE -- A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer and fine aluminum powder. MATERIALS: ---------- Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than 32% nitrogen) Fine aluminum bronzing powder Measuring container, mixing container, two flat boards, storage container PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) METHOD 1 - To obtain a low velocity explosive a. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container. (ie. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder) b. Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod. 2) METHOD 2 - To obtain much higher velocity explosive a. Spread a handful at a time of fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into very fine powder that looks like flour (10 minutes per handful.) NOTE: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled. b. Follow steps A and B of method one (above.) 3) Store the explosive in a waterproof container. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- NITRIC ACID / NITROBENZENE -- A simple explosive can be made from mononitrobenezene and nitric acid. MATERIALS: ---------- Nitric acid Mononitrobenzene (also known as nitrobenzene) Acid resistant measuring container and mixing rod PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc..) mononitrobenzene to 2 volumes nitric acid in a bottle or jar. 2) Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod. CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn and destroy clothing; don't inhale it's fumes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- CELLULOSE / ACID EXPLOSIVE -- An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper of cloth. MATERIALS: ---------- Nitric acid White unprinted, unsized paper or clean white cotton cloth Acid resistant container, aluminum foil, protective gloves PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Put on gloves. 2) Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly soaked. 3) Place another layer of paper of cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary. 4) Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the roll into acid resistant container. 5) Now use a blasting cap (put inside the can) to detonate the sheets. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- SECTION II: INCENDIARY DEVICES ---------------------------------------------------------------------- CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE -- This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact. MATERIALS: ---------- Sulfuric acid Gasoline Potassium chloride Sugar Glass bottle (1 quart), Rag or absorbent paper, string PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Sulfuric acid must be concentrated!!! If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until den_³H­Zºe fumes are given off. Container used should be enamel-ware or oven glass. CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn! Be careful... 2) Remove acid from heat and allow to cool. 3) Pour gasoline into large bottle until it is approximately 2/3 full. 4) Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place stopper on the bottle. 5) Wash outside of bottle thoroughly. CAUTION: If this is not done the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use. 6) Wrap clean cloth around outside of bottle. Tie with string. 7) Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chloride and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of boiling water. 8) Allow solution to cool, pour into a small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle. TO USE: ------- 1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet of after solution has dried. However, when dry the sugar - potassium chloride mixture is sensitive to spark or flame. 2) Throw or launch bottle. When bottle breaks against hard surface, the fuel will ignite. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- GELLED FLAME FUELS -- The white of any egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surface. MATERIALS: ---------- Parts by volume Ingredient -------- ---------- 85 Gasoline 14 Egg white Any one of the following: 1 Table salt 2 Sugar 1 Epson salt 1 1/2 Baking soda PROCEDURE: ---------- CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels. 1) Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon. NOTE: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white. 2) Pour egg white into jar and add gasoline. 3) Add salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (5-10 minutes). Gasoline is now gelled and can be used in a fire bottle (above). It will now adhere to the target. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- WHITE FLARE -- A white flare can be made from potassium nitrate, aluminum powder and shellac. It has a duration of approx. 2 minutes. MATERIALS: ---------- Potassium nitrate Aluminum powder (bronzing) Shellac Quart jar w/lid, fuse, wooden rod, tin can, flat window screen, wooden block PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Place potassium nitrate crystals on screen. Rub material back and forth against screen mesh with wooden block until the nitrate is granulated into a powder. 2) Measure 21 tablespoons of the powdered nitrate into quart jar. Add 21 tablespoons of aluminum powder to the nitrate. 3) Place the lid on the jar and shake ingredients vigorously until well mixed. 4) Add 12 tablespoons of shellac to the mixture and stir with the wooden rod. Store mixture until ready for step 7. 5) Knot one end of the fuse. 6) Wrap the knotted end of the fuse once around the inside bottom of the can with the knot at the center. Then run the rest of the fuse out the center top of the can. 7) Pour the mixture into the can and around the fuse. 8) Store mixture away from heat and flame until ready for use, but not longer than 3 weeks. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- SECTION III: EXPLOSIVE CHARGES ---------------------------------------------------------------------- COKE BOTTLE SHAPED CHARGE -- This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. MATERIALS: ---------- Glass Coke bottle, 6 1/2 ounce size Plastic explosive Blasting cap Metal cylinder, open at both ends, 6 in. long & 2 in. inside diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best results. Plug to fit mouth of Coke bottle Non-metal rod, 1/4 inch diameter, 8 inches or more long Tape or string PROCEDURE: ---------- 1) Place plug in mouth of bottle. 2) Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests on widest part of bottle (a little below the neck). Tape the cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of bottle. 3) Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder is full. 4) Press the rod about 1/2 inch into the middle of the top of the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. HOW TO USE: ----------- 1) Place blasting cap in hole in top of the explosive. 2) Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target. 3) Light fuse or use an electrical igniter when ready to fire. _______________________________________ ! This article presented by: ! ! The Beta Pirate ! --------------------------------------- Formatted to 80 Cols by WHITE CHINA (>View: PIPE BOMBS The following file is for all you pyromaniacs. PIPE BOMBS There are many forms of pipe bombs used today. This file will cover these types: CO2 canisters "Pipe" bombs PVC pipe bombs Steel cased pipe bombs in addition to: timers, various igniting techniques, launching CO2 canisters: CO2 canisters are among the simplest and safest forms of pipe bombs. They can be purchased in any Sporting Goods store for about $2 for 5. Simply let out the CO2 inside, and fill with gunpowder. If you are not yet old enough to buy gunpowder, then you can use powdered sulfur and zinc (60% zinc, 40% sulfur--> by volume-not weight). If you really want to use gunpowder, then try this: 1) obtain a letter 1) obtain a letterhead from any official sounding organization (or make your own). 2) Use it to mail a letter to some large chemical company saying you are a researcher or teacher for some school or business and you need so many parts of this and that. This usually works. If you are really desperate, you can scrape the fuel out of rocket engines (Estes) and use that. It usually takes about 2 C engines to do that. Anyway, fill your CO2 with whatever materials you are using. Then plug the end with a piece of fuse (1/16" of an inch I think). Then put your bomb in a hole or something, light it and run. There's usually only one piece of shrapnel about the size of your fist. CAUTION: Make sure the outside of your "bomb" is very clean and has no gunpowder on it. Otherwise you may have only 2 sec. to run instead of 10. "Pipe" bombs: OK, heres how to make your standard pipe bomb. Go to your local junk yard or any where for that matter and get a piece of pipe (any size). Thread each end. (on the outside). Cap one end. Drill a hole in the middle of the pipe the size of your fuse. fill with one of the ingredients listed earlier. OIL the open end of the pipe and cap it VERY CAREFULLY. If you don't oil the ends it could spark... Just last week some guy was making one in a garage and it sparked. There was only one thing to be heard afterwards: drip, drip, drip ... so OIL it before you cap this end. Then put it in a hole with a LONG fuse, light it and run like hell! I'm not sure how this compares to dynamite, but I'll post what happens when I light off a 3" dia. by 12" long pipe bomb I just recently made.... PVC pipe bombs: PVC pipes are those one made of plastic that are glued together. For these you should follow the same procedure as for pipe bombs, but instead of screwing on caps, you glue them on with the glue used with PVC pipes. This is much safer then using metal cause it doesn't spark. Plus, the glue is so strong that it the ends wont blow off (which sometimes happens). ***IF YOU ARE TRYING TO BE ESPECIALLY DESTRUCTIVE, PUT SMALL PIECES OF METAL IN WITH THE GUN POWDER... Steel Casings: Ok, this is by far the most deadly of the pipe bombs. Take a steel rod of any thickness (probably at least 1/2") and bore out the center by drilling in from one end. Don't drill all the way through though. Then drill a hole in the side for the fuse. Follow the same method for capping the open end as is done with regular pipe bombs. The nice thing about steel is its strength. The thicker you make the walls of the bomb, the bigger the bang. Size helps also. There's only one problem with it though- The cap at one end tends to blow off if its too powerful, or if the cap holds, then all the fuel shoots out through th fuse hole. There is a solution for each. To keep the cap on, make a clamp out of steel that wraps around the bomb from end to end. This should hold it in place. For the fuse hole: Drill a very tiny hole. Then use an ignitor (prefer- ably home made) with insulated wires. Then take another thin steel casing and fit the bomb inside it- only this steel casing doesn't have a fuse hole- just run the leads out one end. Use your standard ignition switch for any ignitor and set it off. It would probably be safer to use a timer. (see below). Timers: The best form of timer that I have found so far is the simple egg timer. All you have to do is wire a connection around the egg time so that when the timer reaches 0 the two wire leads are touching. Fairly simple. Igniting: Basically there are two ways to ignite your bomb. The first is by fuse. The second is by electricity. The best way to ignite a bomb by electricity is to use the Estes ignitors used commonly for model rockets. These work quite well. Of course, for the method I outlined for the steel bomb, you would have to use insulated wires because they would be touching in such a small hole. Launching: Well, its always fun to be able to watch your bomb blow up without risking shrapnel, and especially at night. So, assuming your bomb isn't to heavy, you can launch it in an Estes rocket. (>View: SOFTDRINK BOMBS SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB FROM THE BOOK THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A SOFT DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW. AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY. IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM YOUR BOMB HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST! !! !! !! <- CHEMICAL IGNITER --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! <- BIG FIRECRACKER ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS ! / ! ! ! --------- (>View: HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB STINKUM: FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION. TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFUR WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFUR HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET. TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFIDE OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON. A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFIDE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN STORE AND GARDEN SULFUR IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT HAS 10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR- ING SULFUR. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10 A POUND. STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE CAN BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO KEEP THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO MELTED WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN THE FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE BEFORE USING. IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE SOMEONE. ! <- FUSE --- ! ! <- BRASS TUBE ! ! ! ! (^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE ------- ! !1! ! ! / ! ! / ! !-----! <- WAX ! 1 ! ! 1 ! ! === ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! === ! !-----! (>View: HOW TO MAKE TNT HOW TO MAKE TNT THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND IN USE TODAY IS TNT (TRINITRO- TOLENE). THIS AND OTHER VERY SIMILAR TYPES OF HIGH EXPLOSIVES ARE ALL USED BY THE MILITARY, BECAUSE OF THEIR FANTASTIC POWER - ABOUT 2.25 MILLION POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH, AND THEIR GREAT STABILITY. TNT ALSO HAS THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF BEING ABLE TO BE MELTED AT 82 DEGREES F.,SO THAT IT CAN BE POURED INTO SHELLS, MORTARS, OR ANY OTHER PROJECTILES. MILITARY TNT COMES IN CONTAINERS WHICH RESEMBLE DRY CELL BATTERIES, AND ARE USUALLY IGNITED BY AN ELECTRICAL CHARGE, COUPLED WITH AN ELECTRICAL BLASTING CAP, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE OTHER METHODS. PREPARATION OF TNT- 1 TAKE TWO BEAKERS. IN THE FIRST, PREP ARE A SOLUTION OF 76% SULFURIC ACID, 23% NITRIC ACID, AND 1% WATER.IN THE OTHER BEAKER, PREPARE ANOTHER SOLUTION OF 57% NITRIC ACID AND 43% SULFURIC ACID (%'S ARE ON A WEIGHT RATIO RATHER THAN VOLUME ). 2 TEN GRAMS OF THE FIRST SOLUTION ARE POURED INTO AN EMPTY BEAKER AND PLACED IN AN ICE BATH. 3 ADD TEN GRAMS OF TOLUENE, AND STIR FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. 4 REMOVE THIS BEAKER FROM THE ICE BATH AND GENTLY HEAT UNTIL IT REACHES 50 DEGREES C. THE SOLUTION IS STIRRED CONSTANTLY WHILE BEING HEATED. 5 FIFTY ADDITIONAL GRAMS OF THE ACID, FROM THE FIRST BEAKER, ARE ADDED AND THE TEMPERATURE IS ALLOWED TO RISE TO 55 DEGREES C. THIS TEMPERATURE IS HELD FOR THE NEXT TEN MINUTES, AND AN OILY LIQUID WILL BEGIN TO FORM ON THE TOP OF THE ACID. 6 ABOUT 10 OR 12 MINUTES, THE ACID SOLUTION IS RETURNED TO THE ICE BATH, AND COOLED TO 45 DEGREES C. WHEN REACHING THIS TEMPERATURE, THE OILY LIQUID WILL SINK AND COLLECT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAKER. AT THIS POINT, THE REMAINING ACID SOLUTION SHOULD BE DRAWN OFF, BY USING A SYRINGE. 7 FIFTY MORE GRAMS OF THE FIRST ACID SOLUTION ARE ADDED TO THE OILY LIQUID WHILE THE TEMPERATURE IS SLOWLY BEING RAISED TO 83 DEGREES C. AFTER THIS TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, IT IS MAINTAINED FOR A FULL HALF HOUR. 8 AT THE END OF THIS PERIOD, THE SOLUTION IS ALLOWED TO COOL TO 60 DEGREES C., AND IS HELD AT THIS TEMPERATURE FOR ANOTHER FULL HALF HOUR. AFTER THIS, THE ACID IS AGAIN DRAWN OFF, LEAVING ONCE MORE ONLY THE OILY LIQUID AT THE BOTTOM. 9 THIRTY GRAMS OF SULFURIC ACID ARE ADDED, WHILE THE OILY LIQUID IS GENTLY HEATED TO 80 DEGREES C. ALL TEMPERATURE INCREASES MUST BE ACCOMPLISHED SLOWLY AND GENTLY. 10 ONCE THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, 30 GRAMS OF THE SECOND ACID SOLUTION ARE ADDED, AND THE TEMPERATURE IS RAISED FROM 80 DEGREES C. TO 104 DEGREES C., AND IS HELD FOR THREE HOURS. 11 AFTER THIS THREE-HOUR PERIOD, THE MIXTURE IS LOWERED TO 100 DEGREES C. AND IS HELD THERE FOR A HALF HOUR. 12. AFTER THIS HALF HOUR, THE OIL IS REMOVED FROM THE ACID AND WASHED WITH BOILING WATER. 13 AFTER THE WASHING WITH BOILING WATER, WHILE BEING STIRRED CONSTANTLY, THE TNT WILL BEGIN TO SOLIDIFY. 14 WHEN THE SOLIDIFICATION HAS STARTED, COLD WATER IS ADDED TO THE BEAKER, SO THAT THE TNT WILL FORM INTO PELLETS. ONCE THIS IS DONE, YOU HAVE A GOOD QUALITY TNT. This collection brought to you by: _______ / / / \ / / \ / ___ \ / /______/ /\ \ / / \ \/ at (215) 576-7673 / \ /__\ \ / / \ /\ / \ / \ \/ \ / / \ 12oo/24oo baud \___/ \ FLASH POWDER ------------ FLASH POWDER IS A CHEMICAL MIXTURE THAT BURNS SO FAST THAT IT APPEARS TO BURN INSTANTLY, PRODUCING A BRIGHT FLASH OF LIGHT. FLASH POWDER WILL PRODUCE AN EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION IN AMOUNTS LARGER THAN 4 OUNCES EVEN WHEN IT IS NOT CONTAINED VERY SMALL AMOUNTS OF FLASH POWDER WILL PRODUCE A VERY LOUD EXPLOSION WHEN CONTAINED, EVEN IN A CONTAINER MADE OF A FEW LAYERS OF PAPER. FLASH POWDER IS USUALLY MADE FROM A VERY FINE POWDERED METAL THAT WILL BURN AND AN OXIDIZER. POWDERED ALUMINUM IS USED THE MOST BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER. POWDERED MAGNESIUM AND ZINC WILL ALSO WORK. THE OXIDIZER CAN BE BARIUM NITRATE, AMMONIUM PERCHLORATE, BARIUM PEROXIDE, STRONTIUM NITRATE, POTASSIUM CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE, SODIUM CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, OTHERS, AND ANY COMBINATION OF THESE. ALL THE CHLORATE ARE FRICTION AND IMPACT SENSITIVE, AND ALSO THE PERMAN GANATE. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE IS THE LEAST SENSITIVE OF THE CHLORATES. ALL THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE CRUSHED INTO A VERY FINE POWDER, ABOUT 400 MESH OR SMALLER. 400 MESH IS ABOUT LIKE KITCHEN TYPE FLOUR. BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM IS A BRAND NAME FOR ALUMINUM POWDER. IT HAS A PARTICAL SIZE OF 600 MESH FOR 98% OF THE ALUMINUM MATERIAL. THE OTHER 2% OF THE MATERIAL IS LARGER THAN 600 MESH. THERE ARE OTHER ALUMINUM POWDERS MADE BY OTHER COMPANIES THAT ARE EQUAL TO OR BETTER THAN BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM. ALUMINUM PYRO POWDER IS ALSO A BRAND NAME. THE PARTICAL SIZE IS (98%-400) OR 98% OF THE MATERIAL IS SMALLER THAN 400 MESH. THE OTHER 2% IS LARGER THAN 400 MESH. FLASH POWDER FORMULAS 1. IT IS NOT MOISTURE ABSORBENT. NOT VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT OR FRICTION. SODIUM CHLORATE OR POTASSIUM CHLORATE CAN BE USED INSTEAD OF POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE BUT IT THEN BECOMES VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND IMPACT. 4 OUNCES OF THIS MIXTURE WILL PRODUCE AN EXPLOSION EQUAL TO ONE STICK OF DYNAMITE! POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 600 MESH 1 OZ. 2. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AND EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION, ALMOST AS GOOD AS FORMULA #1. THIS IS WHAT MOST FIRECRACKERS, M-80'S AND OTHER FIREWORKS ARE MADE WITH. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ. 3. THIS FORMULA IS EQUAL TO FORMULA #2 IT IS NOT SENSITIVE TO FRICTION OR IMPACT. BARIUM PEROXIDE 9 OZ. 50%/50% MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM POWDER 200 MESH 1 OZ. 4. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS FORMULA #2 BUT IT PRODUCES A VERY BRIGHT FLASH. THIS FORMULA IS WHAT USE TO BE USED FOR THE PHOTO FLASH FOR THE OLD BOX TYPE CAMERAS ABOUT 100 YEARS AGO BARIUM NITRATE 3 OZ. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 3 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 4 OZ. 5. THIS FORMULA WORKS VERY GOOD. IT IS NOT VERY IMPACT OR FRICTION SENSITIVE. IT PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE CONTAINS 46.1914% OXYGEN. HALF AS POWERFUL AS #2. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ. SULFUR 1 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ. 6. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS #5 BUT IT HAS A DISADVANTAGE OF BEING MOISTURE ABSORBENT AND IT IS VERY IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE. SODIUM CHLORATE CONTAINS 45.0937% OXYGEN. PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION, EQUAL TO #5. SODIUM CHLORATE 2 OZ. SULFUR 1 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ. 7. THIS FORMULA IS VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND IMPACT AND COULD EXPLODE DURING THE CONSTRUCTION OF ANY EXPLOSIVE DEVICE. POTASSIUM CHLORATE CONTAINS 39.1664% OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AN EXPLOSION ALMOST EQUAL TO #5 OR #6. USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TOY CAP PISTOL CAPS. POTASSIUM CHLORATE 2 OZ. SULFUR 1 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 1 OZ. 8. THIS FORMULA IS VERY, VERY VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT, FRICTION AND STATIC ELECTRICITY, EVEN MORE SENSITIVE THAN #7. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! WILL IGNITE EVEN WHEN WET. POTASSIUM CHLORATE 6.7 OZ. RED PHOSPHORUS 2.7 OZ. SULFUR 0.3 OZ. CALCIUM CARBONATE 0.3 OZ. 9. THIS FORMULA HAS SLIGHTLY LESS EXPLOSIVE POWER THAN #7. IT IS SLIGHTLY FRICTION AND IMPACT SENSITIVE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE CONTAINS 40.4961% OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA WILL IGNITE ITSELF IF IT GETS WET. VERY LOUD EXPLOSION. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE 2 OZ. SULFUR 1 OZ. ALUMINUM POWDER 1 OZ. 10. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES A VERY SMALL EXPLOSION WHEN IGNITED IN A PAPER TUBE. A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION IS PRODUCED WHEN IT IS IGNITED IN A VERY STRONG CONTAINER. IT IS IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE. POTASSIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ. CHARCOAL DUST 1.5 OZ. SULFUR 1.0 OZ. 11. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT THIS FORMULA. POTASSIUM CHLORATE 6 OZ. ANTIMONY SULFIDE 3 OZ. SULFUR 1 OZ. 12. THIS FORMULA IS A LITTLE LOUDER THAN FORMULA #10. IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE. PRODUCES A SMALL EXPLOSION IN A PAPER CONTAINER. SODIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ. CHARCOAL DUST 1.5 OZ. SULFUR 1.0 OZ. 13. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT THIS FORMULA. POTASSIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ. GALLIC ACID 2.2 OZ. RED GUM 0.3 OZ. !CAUTION! --------- THE MIXTURE OF ANY CHLORATE WITH PHOSPHORUS OR SULFUR IS EXTREMEY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE. CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES MUST NOT BE STORED TOGETHER WITH AMMONIUM NITRATE EXPLOSIVES, SINCE AMMONIUM CHLORATE WHICH IS FORMED WHEN THESE TWO SUBSTANCES ARE BROUGHT IN CONTACT, EXPLODES. WHEN MIXING CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES, CRUSH ALL OF THE CHEMICALS SEPARATELY. SIFT THE OXIDIZER THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE TO BREAK UP THE MATERIAL INTO SMALL PIECES. THEN SIFT THE OTHER CHEMICALS ALSO IF THEY NEED IT. MIX ALL OF THE FLASH POWDER CHEMICALS TOGETHER AND MIX WELL BY SIFTING THEM THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE OR BY SHAKING THEM IN A ZIP LOCK BAG. THIS MIXTURE IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION, IMPACT, HEAT, SPARK, STATIC ELECTRICITY. 4 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER HS THE SAME EXPLOSIVE POWER AS ONE STICK OF DYNAMITE. ONE GROSS OF M-80 FIRE- CRACKERS IS EQUAL TO 3 STICKS OF DYNAMITE. 8 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-80 TYPE FIRECRACKERS IF EACH M-80 CONTAINS 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER. M-80'S WITH 1/4 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER PRODUCES AN EXPLOSION THAT SOUND ALMOST EXACTLY THE SAME AS M-80'S WITH 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER, BUT IT HAS LESS DESTRUCTIVE POWER. 24 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-100 TYPE FIRECRACKERS. (AND THESE ARE AWSOME!) QUICK CONVERSIONS: 3 TEASPONS = 1 TABLESPOON 4 TABLESPOONS = 1/4 CUP 1/4 CUP = 2 OZ. M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION ------------------------- 1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE. RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND THE SIDE OF AN END PLUG OR THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE. INSERT THE END PLUG, CONVEX SIDE FIRST, INTO THE PAPER TUBE. PUSH IT IN UNTIL THE BACK EDGE OF THE PLUG IS FLUSH WITH THE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE. 2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE. USING A 1/8 INCH DRILL BIT, AN ICE PICK OR A SHARP NAIL, PUNCH A HOLE THROUGH ONE SIDE OF THE PAPER TUBE IN THE MIDDLE. NEVER PUNCTURE A CASE THAT CONTAINS FLASH POWDER. THE PAPER TUBE SHOULD ALWAYS BE FUSED BEFORE THE FLASH POWDER IS ADDED. CUT THE FUSE TO 1 1/2 INCHES IN LENGTH AND INSERT IT INTO THE HOLE AT LEAST HALFWAY ACROSS THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE PAPER TUBE. RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND THE FUSE AND LET IT DRY. 3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN MIXING FLASH POWDER. FLASH POWDER IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT FORCE. AVOID ALL SOURCES OF FRICTION, IMPACT, FLAME, SPARKS AND STATIC ELECTRICITY. 4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES STAND THE PAPER TUBES ON END, OPEN END UP. USING A SMALL FUNNEL AND A MEASURING SPOON 1/2 TEASPOON, FILL THE PAPER TUBES 1/2 TO 2/3 FULL. DO NOT FILL THE TUBES COMPLETELY FULL OR PACK IN THE FLASH POWDER. BY LEAVING AN AIR SPACE THERE IS ROOM FOR THE FLASH POWDER TO EXPAND WHEN IGNITED WHICH WILL PRODUCE A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION. 5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG PLUG THE OPEN END IN THE SAME WAY THAT YOU PLUGGED THE FIRST END. MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80 ----------------------------- 1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 1/2 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH WALL THICKNESS, 1 1/2 INCHES LONG. 2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 1/2 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH PAPER THICKNESS. 3. ONE 3/32 DIAMETER WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG. 4. 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER. 5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE. TUBE -- =========== -- END !! ) O ( !! END PLUG -- =========== -- PLUG FUSE ^ HOLE ----------- M80 OR M100 ----------- MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100 ---------------------------- 1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 5/8 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1 3/4 INCH LONG 2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 5/8 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER. 3. ONE WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG. 4. 1 1/2 TEASPOONS OF FLASH POWDER. 5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE CHEMICALS --------- MOST OF THE CHEMICALS YOU NEED ARE SOLD AT K-MART, HARDWARE STORES, DRUG STORES, LUMBER YARDS, PLUMBING SUPPLY, WAL-MART, CEMENT COMPANY AND MANY OTHER STORES. SODIUM CHLORATE. O2 SOLID OXYGEN PELLETS ARE USED IN SMALL WORK SHOP TORCHES. O-OP, DRUG STORES AND LAWN AND GARDEN CENTERS. ALUMINUM POWDER. SOLD BY PAINT STORES AND AUTO PARTS STORES. ALUMINUM POWDER CAN BE FOUND IN RADIATOR STOP LEAK. SODIUM NITRATE. SOLD BY DRUG STORES AND MEAT PACKING PLANTS. ANTIMONY SULFIDE. IS SOLD BY MOST PLUMBING SUPPLY STORES. NOW YOU PROBABLY WONDER WHERE YOU CAN GET THE PAPER TUBES AND END CAPS. OK JUST WRITE: FULL AUTO CO. INC. P.O. BOX 1881 MURFREESBORO, TN. 37133 AND ASK FOR A CATALOG. M-80 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$5. END PLUGS ARE 200-$3.5 M-100 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$9. END PLUGS ARE 200-$5. YOU MUST HAVE AN ORDER FORM TO ORDER THIS. THEY ALSO SELL ALL THE CHEMICALS YOU NEED TO MAKE FLASH POWDER. YOU MUST BE OVER 21 OR AT LEAST SIGN THE ORDER THAT SAYS THAT YOU ARE 21. THERE IS NO WAY THAT THEY CAN FIND OUT. I DO NOT SUGGEST THAT YOU BUY THEIR WATER PROOF FUSE BECAUSE IT SUCKS! GO TO A GUN SHOP IN YOUR AREA AND ASK FOR CANNON FUSES. IT'S PROBABLY AROUND 35 TO 40 CENTS A FOOT AND IS WATER PROOF AND MUCH BETTER QUALITY. YOU DO HAVE TO BE 16 OR 18 TO BUY IT. VE TO FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE.