*********************************************** * * * The UNABOM Guide to * * Blowing up Universities * * * * by: Whiz Kid * * 10/10/93 * *********************************************** WHY? **** Why blow up a University or other symbol of "Higher" education? Because of what they represent. Just like the Catholic Church of the middle-ages, they represent power, class and repression! They (and most of society) hold them as the keepers of THE TRUTH. In fact they are the keepers of dogma, reaction . . . the status quo. The heirarchy of these institutions with the help of those who support them, (who themselves all went through the very same system), see only one role for themselves: to hold onto power through entrenching the system of which they are a part. They do this through what they claim is education, but is really only indoctrination. Their job is to stifle creativity, through unbridled competition, overwhelming their victims with an excess of useless information, and brainwashing very specific (and very limiting) rigid ways of looking at the world. You are not given time to examine the validity and purpose behind what you are being taught; if you want to "succeed" you must take it all in without reflection. You must learn to see things they way "they" do. Most of the "facts" you are taught are merely theories, and have little if any practical application outside of academe. You are to analyze the world quantitatively, not qualitatively. Your perspective from which you view the world must be similar to that of those already in authority so that you can function in the world as they envision it; that is the purpose of university! Beside the purpose of indoctrination, universities have a second purpose: maintaining social rankings (ie. CLASS, or the Caste system). Universities are not there to teach, but to weed out as many people as possible, so that only a very few can attain a degree. Admission costs are made exorbitant, to keep out those from lower social classes, or to keep them paying off the debts, so throughout their lifetimes they never get to experience the full benefits of the higher rank they have obtained. Every possible obstacle is put in your path ON PURPOSE. You are supposed to be demoralized. Those who "fail" are supposed to accept their failure and lower rank in society throughout their lives. Those who "succeed", accept the system as it is, but not for what it is. Of course in their avarice, universities have greatly increased their admissions. To offset this, the failure rates have been increased and the "value" of a degree has greatly decreased. In spite of what you may have been lead to believe, bachelor degrees are not held in any esteem. Most Fortune 500 companies, will not hire someone into middle-management (never mind upper-management) with only a Bachelor's degree. Master's degrees are now considered the minimum and PhD's are preferred. They don't tell you that, or it might lower the admissions for bachelor programs, one of the largest profit centers for these institutions. To spend 6 to 10 years in these places takes great wealth or upper-class connections to allow you to take advantage of the system at the expense of others. Of course this is what those in these institutions did for themselves over two decades ago, when each one (independently) declared that education for the children of staff members would be FREE at that institution. That means to cover those additional expenses, the price for attending these places is much higher for everyone else. Does any other business give free services or product to the children of its staff? No! But university isn't just about business, it is also about social class and maintaining the hierarchy. The desire to maintain social class is not sufficient to support such a bloated infrastructure as a university, there must also be profits. Universities after all are also a business; BIG BUSINESS. In addition to general operating revenues from governments, one of the largest sources of funds are the undergraduates (those coming out of high/secondary schools or colleges). Many more students are admitted than there are room for, and many are admitted with grades much lower than those needed to survive the first few months. That is why fees are so frontend-loaded. These extra students will be forced to drop out within a month or two, yet the institution keeps 75 or 100 per cent of their whole years tuition! Who cares what effect all these unwarranted "failures" might have on society. The university feels no responsibility whatsoever to the community in which it is situated. It feels no responsibility towards the students it suckered into attending and paying, and then forced out. Universities give preference to foreign students over those from the local community because they can charge far higher unregulated tuitions to them. This gives those of high caste from outside the country a better chance, than long term citizens of North America from working-class families from obtaining degrees. Just look at the high proportion of foreign students attending our universities, while many of our own citizens have to wait years, even with higher marks, to gain admission. All this money obtained from these new students is used to fund Doctorate studies and Professors private research projects which are in fact the most expensive areas in any university. Often universities have levied "special fees" on the premise of buying new equipment for the undergraduates, when the money is really going to buy new equipment for graduate programs. The old and often failing equipment from the research lab is then sold to the undergraduate classrooms at "new" prices. This is a clear cut case of fraud. Another source of income for the universities is research for the military and industry. Engineering, Physics, Chemistry and Medicine faculties of ALL universities are nortorious for receiving military research grants, even in the 90's. The Computer Optical Recognition Research program you have been told is to provide artificial sight for the blind is much more likely to be trying to get computers to recognize the outlines of aircraft, tanks or artillery for "smart" missles. Who did you think funds most of the computer engineering research programs for "Artificial Intelligence? The nuclear physics program to find new sources of energy for society, is more likely to be looking for a high power source for military lasers. Business also funds some research to help it find cheaper production methods using less workers. (Of course our governments sometimes helps fund these programs that will eventually put more people out of work.) So where does all this profit go? Much of it goes to the professors at the top of this hierarchical system who receive a lot of money considering how little work they really do. They spend little time teaching and spend most of their time on their favorite pet research projects that they hope will make them a millionaire at everbody else's expense. So who does the teaching? Besides the lectures that are usually given by the professors, almost all of the work is done by "Teaching Assistants" who are Master's students, who as part of their duties to gain this degree must do research for the professor, teach in Tutorials, and mark all of the papers. How can student's learn in a Master's degree if they are doing all this work for the professors? They can't. It is part of their indoctrination into the hierarchy, and the price they are forced to pay to get this piece of paper so that they are permitted to go onto their Doctorates (PhD's). PhD's want to go on to become Professors or to get out into government or industry. Some Professors, just want tenure, a job GUARANTEED for life while they sit on their laurels and do a bit of teaching. The more ambitious ones, and there are many, want to start research projects at the government's and the university's expense (with their approval since many there are apart of it), where they can receive additional guaranteed wages for doing the work they might have done anyways on their own time, with funding for assistants and equipment, and if they come up with something commercially viable, even if it is worth tens of millions, they patent it as their own. The government get no refund on the expenses, (neither do the undergraduates who were overcharged to help pay for this), even though profits are now being made as a result of this funded research. Often most of the work is done by students, but if they want to get their degrees, the professor is allowed to take most if not full credit for the discovery! The professor can now either just sell his patent, or quit and start his own business based upon this work, and never have to pay back any of the money he received to do this work in the first place. Universities have more influence over our society than any other institution since the majority of those in authority in government, media and business have gone through and been brainwashed by the universities. Universities continue to reinforce the existing class system and will continue to do so if allowed to exist. UNIVERSITIES MUST BE TORN DOWN BEFORE THEY COMPLETELY DESTROY US! BOMBS... TOOLS OF THE TRADE *************************** Shotgun Shell Mine The simplest and cheapest terrorist device to use on university grounds is the Shotgun Shell Mine. It can be made for 1/2 a dollar a piece. It uses a shotshell, two pieces of wood, one nail and some glue. Take a piece of wood (softer woods are easier to drill,) and Shotgun Shell drill a hole slightly larger in primer down diameter than the shotgun shell. ÚÄ¿ Take a second piece of wood, °°°°°°°°³ ³°°°°°°°° thinner but the same length and Soft °°°°°°°°ÃÄ´°°°°°°°° width as the first piece of wood. Wood °°°°°°°°À-Ù°°°°°°°° Mark where the center of the °°°°°°°° ³ °°°°°°°° whole is on this second piece of Hard ²²²²²²²²²³²²²²²²²²² wood and drive a nail in this Wood Á place so that is slightly sticks Nail through the thickness of this board. This second piece should be a hard wood so as to hold the nail, even under pressure. Glue or nail the two pieces of wood together so that they look the way the above diagram does. Bury this in earth so that its top is just below the surface of the ground. Place the shotgun shell gently in the hole so that its primer (detonator) is resting on top of the nail. Loosely cover this whole device with soil. When stepped upon it will obliterate the victims foot! I like to place them in paths frequented by Campus Police (they are only security guards, but think they are SS Stormtroopers). If you aren't that violent, you can place several of them on the grounds and then just inform the media about them. (More about bomb threats later). The headlines should make a lot of people think twice about going to that institution. Basics of the Pipe Bomb Pipe bombs are the primary tool of the UNABOMber! They can be used by themselves of as the explosive device in a mine or letterbomb. Pipe bombs are classified as "low-explosives" in that they really don't contain any "explosive" as all. Though an explosive device, they contain an very fast burning mixture contained in a pressure- containing vessel. Since it is a sealed container, the mixture must contain an oxidizer in addition to some sort of fuel. As this burns, it quickly produces large quatities of gases that are held within the container. Eventually the pressure builds up to such an extent that it bursts the container, producing a shock wave, shrapnel, noise and possibly flame. It is the shock wave and shrapnel that cause most of the damage. A firecracker works this way, but since its pressure-containing vessel is only paper, it bursts at fairly low pressures, producing lots of noise, a bit of flame, but no shrapnel and only a low-level shockwave. A pipe bomb can use the same fuel, but it is larger and must have a container capable of handling a much larger pressure. The pipe is usually steel, but can be aluminum, heavy duty plastic sewer pipe, or even very thick reinforced cardboard tubing (though I like to add material to the outside of cardboard to provide the shrapnel if I want it). The pressure vessel is usually iron, cast iron or steel piping, typically 1 to 8 inches in diameter, 3 to 18 inches long. The larger the volume, the thicker the walls of the pipe have to be to contain the pressure, until bursting. The higher this pressure the more powerful the bomb. The ends of the pipe should be threaded to take threaded end-caps. Lubricate the threads lightly with vaseline to make it easier to put the ends on. Drill a hole large enough to take the insulated detonation wires or a incendiary wick. File/sand off any rough edges around the hole. If you are using a wick you will have to make the hole somewhat larger than the wick and coat the inside of the hole with ceramic cement, epoxy or rubber cement. The reason for this is that if there is a tight fit and a wick contacts a metal container the metal can conduct the heat of the wick away, thereby putting it out. An important note: the hole for the wick or wires should be as small as possible so as to not allow the pressure to leak out easily. The smaller the hole the better, but not if it will put out the wick (or short out the detonation wires). Plastic sewer piping or heavy cardboard can be used for a low X-ray signature bomb. The power will be less, buy may often be sufficient, depending on your expectations. It will also reduce the chances of being picked up by a metal detector, especially if a wick is used instead of an electrical detonation system that would need metal wiring. The problem with cardboard is that it is flammable, and with plastic that it melts, so for such a bomb to work, you must have a very fast fuel like blackpowder or smokeless powder. For plastic sewer pipes, the ends are usually glued on, for cardboard, you will have to improvise, just remember the ends must be extremely firmly attached and should be as thick the tubes walls, which should be as thick as possible. To reinforce your plastic or carboard bomb, tightly wrap it with fiberglass, or fiberglass reinforced tape, going both from end to end and around. I myself prefer to get an auto-body repair kit, and once the bomb is made, I coat the whole device, (being careful around the hole for the wick/wires), with alternating layers of coating and fiberglass fabric. If you avoid air bubbles, the fiberglass reinforced plastic/cardboard bomb will be much more powerful. These bombs do not produce much if any shrapnel. If you want shrapnel, coat them with epoxy glue (or the resin from the auto-body kit), and cover the bombs with broken glass or small broken pieces from ceramic dishes or cups. (Of course even with the metal pipe bomb, you can increase the shrapnel produced by adding the glass or how about nails to the outside of the bomb.) Now comes the propellant, which is a mixture of fuel and oxidizer, since in the confines of the container, there would be insufficient oxygen to use a fuel alone. The easiest to get is Blackpoweder/Gun Powder (preferably FFF grade but FF will do), or Smokeless Powder (Guncotton) from a local gunshop. They sell it for reloading your own ammunition. It is preferable to wear a bit of a disguise and to buy this in another town. Alternately, you can buy Shot Gun shells from most sporting store or any hardware store that also sells guns. There are no permits to buy ammunition. Carefully, open up the shells, (always avoiding the primer at the center back of the shell). Remove the shot, and save the gun powder. You can also buy fireworks and remove the powder, but if you have any hardened cylindrical mixtures they will be for "stars" and are generally too slow burning for a Pipe bomb. You can make your own incendiary mixtures such as gunpowder. I have even heard of using a mixture of 4 volumes of Potassium Nitrate, with 1 volume of Icing Sugar, though I have not used this particular mixture and expect it to be of low power. I myself for small pipes (1 inch dia. by 3 inches long) have taken a "C" model rocket booster engine and just sliped the whole thing into the pipe; it worked reasonably well, and was easy to do. Be careful not to get any propellant on the threads of the pipe, or you could ignite the whole thing when you try screwing on the end cap. NOTE: NEVER FILL A PIPE MORE THAN 2/3 FULL OF PROPELLANT. I typically fill it 1/2 to 2/3 full. When using a wick, I put the wick in first, so that it goes right down to the other end (bottom) of the pipe, fill the pipe so that the wick right through the propellant, then stuff the remainder of the pipe with a Kleenex (more for large pipes) and then with loosely crumpled newsprint. The Kleenex acts as a barrier to the fine powder and the newsprint holds the powder in place so it doesn't shift. For very large pipes, I put the wick into a paper bag, fill the bag with approximately the amount of powder I want, tie the top closed with string (but with the wick sticking out the top), and stuff the bag into the pipe. I fill the remainder of the pipe with loosely crumpled newsprint. The bag trick means there is little chance of spills or getting any powder onto the pipe threads. (Sometimes with large pipes, I fill it 1/6 to 1/4 with a vial or jar of gasoline, plus 1/2 with the propellant, so that when it blows, there will also be a fireball!) Tightly screw on the second end cap. In my work I only use electrical detonation. Not only is it much more reliable, but it allows you to make a letter-bomb or mine, and be far away when it goes off. The easiest method to make a squib (electrical incendiary detonator), is to go to an electronic component store, such as Radio Shack, and purchase low voltage lamps preferably already with leads. 1.5 and 6 volt lamps work best. If your lamp does not already have insulated leads (wires) then solder them on right now before going any further. Carefully break and remove most of the glass from the bulb, while not damaging the lamp's filament. Drop one drop of Crazy Glue (cyanocrylate) onto the filament, and gently dip the wet filament into blackpowder/gun powder or smokeless powder. The filament should be coated. You can repeat this a second time. Now glue or tape a single or double layer paper tube over the whole lamp, (including its base). Gently fill the tube with more propellant and cover the top with a thin piece of tape to loosely seal it. This is your electrical detonator. You should have access to an ohmeter (VOM) to verify you did not break the lamp's filament. You should also destructively test the first few electrical detonators you make outdoors. 6 volt lamps may or may not work with a 1.5 volt source, but 1.5 volt lamps should work with either a 1.5 or 9 volt battery. When hooked up (from a distance of a few feet to prevent burns) to the battery the detonator should flare up like a match or even like a small piece of fireworks, depending on the size and quantity of propellant you use. Use the squib in a similar way to the wick, filling the pipe with about half of the propellant you intend on using, gently place the detonator in the middle of the propellant, and then pour in the rest of the propellant, until the pipe is 1/2 to 2/3 full. Pack down with a Kleenex and then some loosely newsprint paper. Feed the wires through the end cap's hole and carefully screw on the cap being sure not to twist the insulated detonation wires. (If you are using the simple to handle rocket booster engine as your propellant, buy the igniters that go with the rockets and use those instead of your own detonators. You will likely have to add your own insulated wires to make them long enough for your use.) Carefully fill in around the wires with rubber cement or epoxy glue (DO NOT USE 5 MINUTE EPOXY AS IT GETS TOO HOT). Once all sealed up, you have a working and very dangerous Pipe Bomb! DRIVEWAY PIPE MINE This has proven to be very effective. You put it in your prospective marks parking place. It looks like something meant to puncture holes in his cars tires, but when picked up, it blows up in his face! Take two 2by4's. Drive several long nails completely through one of them so that they very clearly stick out of the board Take the second 2x4 and Side ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ cut a hole in it large view ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ enough to fit your Pipe of °°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°° bomb a battery a slide first °°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°°³°°°° switch and a small 2 x 4 Á Á Á Á Á lever-type "micro" switch. The switch should have a "Normally closed" set of contacts. What this means is that if the lever is not pushed a circuit is made. Most of these types of swiches have three contacts: a "Normally Open" contact you are not interested in, the "Normally Closed" lead you are interested in and a "Common" lead you are also interested in. You may also wish to connect a safety (slide) switch so that the bomb can not be detonated until you want it to be. Now, you will wire the two switches, the battery and the detonator leads all in series, and mount them in the hollowed out piece of wood. The two pieces of wood are then glued together so that the lever is pushed when the unit is on the ground and is not pushed (thereby detonating the bomb) when the unit is picked up. Be careful you don't want to blow yourself up. Top view of the ±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±± hollowed out ±±±±± ÉÍÍ» °°°°° ÚÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿±±±±± 2 by 4, with two ±±±±± ³9V³switchs³³ PIPE BOMB ³³±±±±± switches the bomb ±±±±± ÀÄÄÙ °°°°° ÀÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÁÙ±±±±± and battery installed! ±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±± SIDE Nails ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ VIEW ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ WHEN Top 2 x 4 °°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°° BOTH °°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°° 2X4s Hollowed ²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²² ARE out 2 x 4 ²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²²² GLUED \ TOGETHER Micro Switch Lever \ If you have no electrical background (you don't need much) get a book out on the subject and read about introductory circuits and about series circuits. That is all you will need. Keep the (safety) slide switch in the OFF (Open) position until you are ready to place the bomb. Take a thick piece of paper and wrap it around the bottom of the bomb so that it holds the lever up. Fold the ends of the card or thick paper so they go somewhat up the sides of the unit and tape them in place. When you are ready to place the bomb, change the slide swich to the ON (closed) position, put the bomb in its place in somebody's parking spot or driveway, untape the sides of the protective card and gently slide it from under the bomb. The unit is now ARMED. If the mark doesn't see it and drives over it, there will be appreciable damage to his car. If he sees it and picks it up, it will blow up in his hands. If he is right over it when he picks it up, it is possible that the top piece of wood with the protruding nails will be driven by the explosion into his body. LETTER BOMB Letter bombs have the great advantage that you can send them anywhere in the World! I have successfully mailed these throughout North America. To make a letter bomb the way I do, you will need a LEAF SWITCH. These can be made, but I buy them from small electronic component stores, either for the repairman or those handling surplus components. Radio shack will not carry this item. A leaf switch has two or three thin pieces of copper (actually a phosphor-bronze alloy to make it springy). They also have either plastic or other thin insulating material to insulate the various pieces from each other. They may also have a plastic lever connected to the contacts to move them. If there is a lever you won't need it, and you can cut it off. If there are two contacts touching, these will be the ones you use, if there isn't you will have to bend two contacts so that they are. You will solder a wire to each of these contacts, and this will be your switch. This is connected in series with your battery and your detonation wires coming out of your pipe bomb. If you use a 1.5 volt mercury button cell (hearing aid battery) and a non-metallic pipe bomb, this device will usually pass metal detectors and X-ray equipment, since with the metal detectors the small amount of metal in the switch, small button battery and short wires will often assumed to be too little for a bomb, and will assume to be staples and a paperclip. Bend this contact down to touch the other Solder a wire to each ÄÄÄ°ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ of these two contacts ÄÄÄ°ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Stick a long piece of paper between the two These switches are usually quite contacts to keep the small only 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches switch OFF (open) long and very thin Leaf swiches are used in consumer electronics, such as portable tape recorders to sense when a lever has moved. You will place a long strip of paper in between the contacts so that the circuit will be broken. When wired in series with the battery and detonator wires, this is your trigger switch. You will tape the other end of the long strip of paper to papers you have included as a disguise in your envelope. When the papers are removed from the envelope or otherwise separated from the bomb, they will pull out the long strip from between the contacts of the leaf switch, the contacts will touch, the circuit will be made and the bomb will go off! I put the whole device including the decoy papers into a padded shipping envelope and glue or tape the bomb itself to the corner furthest away from where the envelope is most likely to be opened. By securely fastening the bomb to the envelope you remove any chance the contents will shift around due to rough handling by the post office, which could cause the piece of paper to pull out of the leaf switch and the bomb to go off. Pull-To-Open strip if it has one ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ/ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ³ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ ³ Papers to ³ OPEN END ³ ³ ° Disguise the ³ OF ³ ³ Tape ²²²²²²² real contents³ ENVELOPE ³ ³ ° of package! ³ TO BE ³ ÚÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿° Strip of Paper ³ CLOSED ³ ³³PIPE BOMB³³Ð Switch ³ WITH A ³ ÀÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÁÙ±Battery ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ COUPLE ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ STAPLES Be sure not to attach the decoy papers to the inside of the envelope only the bomb (which has the battery and switch glued onto it). Fold over the open end of the over and staple it closed once or twice. Mail it off to your target and when they open it and try to remove the papers . . . BOOM! SUPPLIES AND CONSTRUCTION ************************* You don't want your actions being traced back to you so here are a few tips: - Buy your supplies well in advance of building or installing/mailing your devices - try to get your supplies in common places like K-mart stores the more available (common) the items the more it makes it impossible for them to be traced to any particular source - for any suspicious supplies like gun powder, get them out of town, get them well before you intend to use them and if possible wear a simple disguise (it only has to be a hat, sunglasses, possibly a bandaid somewhere on your face to distract peoples attention, and clothing that you would never normally wear. You can go to a place for the homeless/down-and-out to get the clothing, since after getting all the supplies you need you will not need them again and will throw the clothing out.) - try not to use anything that if not destroyed would give the police clues. That is why I don't use newspapers crumpled up in the pipes to keep things in place, I go to K-mart and get the cheapest quality paper available, usually newsprint Newpapers will give the police your possible location and a date. - Don't leave fingerprints on anything! Wear gloves whenever possible, while making and mailing/placing devices - Don't ever tell anybody what you are doing - If you are working in a group (I prefer working alone so there is nobody who could snitch on me), keep your group as small as possible - If you inform the media (I don't) make sure it is not tracable back to you - NEVER watch your target or target area after mailing/placing a device. The police often photograph any mob in case their perpetrator is watching the action. The same goes for media videos; the police often get copies to see if their "perp" was captured on tape watching. - NEVER go back to the scene to look for traces of damage it is the same situation as above and therefore you are only looking for trouble - Try to make things untracable, whether it be your writing or the source where things originated from, DO NOT MAIL LETTERS FROM YOUR HOME TOWN, it is better to drive 50 miles and mail it from there. It is also better to mail items from Mail Boxes in larger towns or cities, rather than from an actual Post Office. - So that letters look legitimate, it is best to put on a secondary target that is another university as the return address and IF POSSIBLE mail it from or near that city. When the target sees it is from another institution they will be less likely to question it. Also if you screw up and put insufficient postage on the package, it would get "returned" to the secondary target who will then open it. - Get yourself a cheap scale to weigh your packages, and a flyer from the post office listing postal rates TARGETTING ********** NEVER hit the exact same target twice! If you are going to pick the same institution more than once, leave some time between hits, and try to make each one a bit different. Try not to have any pattern. Don't hit the exact same type of office or researcher each time. Don't mail using the same type of padded envelope, or use the exact looking type of mine. Don't mail it from the same city. Don't do it on a specific date, day of the week, season of the year, or even time of day. You want to leave no pattern to your destruction. This is what the police look for, and why I have never even been a suspect! Leave no clues. You may already know your target. This is one of the few ways you can get caught: if your target suspects you. In this situation you MUST wait a long time so that you will be forgotten . . . never suspected! This can take years. I myself have waited as long as 5 years to HIT a target under this situation, and of course, I have never been approached as a suspect for these incidences. I have never met most of my targets, which means there is absolutely no reason to suspect me. I see them in newspapers, or on television, or I go to the local university libraries and look through military, medical, engineering, physics and chemical journals to see who is doing research on what dispicable projects. I often visit universities years before I hit them, or write using a fake name and say I am interested in possibly attending their institution and so I would like pamphlets and even a campus map. Then while in a bit of a disguise, I wander through their campus and buildings, not going into offices but noting what is on the office and laboratory doors. If you ever get stopped by campus security, all you have to say is that you are lost and looking for the admissions office or a washroom. If you go during school hours there will be so many people around, you will just be another nameless face. If you go during the first few weeks of the school year (September) there will be so many new students there who don't know their way around the campus, that it will be a common occurence for people to get lost and be where they shouldn't be. Note anything and any names that seem interesting. Use your imagination and your knowledge. If you see a door that says "Fluoro-Organo-Phosphate Research" (or Organo-Fluoro-Phosphate Storage) you know they are doing research on NERVE GAS! Artificial Intelligence and Computer Optical Recognition laboratories are also centers of military research. Look for obvious signals such as signs saying: "Danger", "Caution", "Hazardous", "Radiation", "Bio-Hazard", etc. If you also see names and room numbers note them too, so you will have more details on your mailing address. Often there will also be bulletin boards listing the senior members or administration in a department. Note everything you think might become a target. If you go to retraining/work counselling centres, many have all sorts of literature on the various universities and some of this lists the top people at these institutions . . . all potential targets! BOMB THREATS ************ I myself don't believe in either threats or warnings. If I targetted a mark, I intend to hit them. I consider it as something that just would add to my risks, though if done properly, those risks are next to zero. In the United States, 98% of all bomb threats are false. You could have various reasons for wanting to make a Bomb Threat: - you might not have left any devices but just want to disrupt exams, ceremonies, seminars, etc. This is often not very effective unless you have planted a fake device. A suspicious looking package or bag, preferably set up so that the contents can not be viewed, or if it can be viewed, containing a pipe full or sand or other matter to weigh it down. It must look like it Could be a real bomb. - you have left a device but you only want to damage property and not cause any personal injuries to anyone - you want the device to be found so that their is neither any property damage nor injuries, as you only want to get media attention for a cause, or to scare prospective students away from that university. (Maybe instead of being against the system, you want to be a part of it, but you want to decrease the numbers applying for admission, so that you will have a much better chance of being accepted there.) There are two primary methods of making a bomb threat: in writing and by telephone. When making a bomb threat in writing there are several concerns: - Never leave any fingerprints on anything! (Not even the postage stamp) - Do not leave traces of your saliva for DNA analysis, by licking either the envelope shut or the stamp; use water. - Get common stationary available anywhere in North America Buy your supplies from chain stores/franchises such as 7-11, K-Mart or Wal-Mart. - Do not use this stationary for any other purpose and use "fresh" stationary. The police will look for imprints from you writing onto another piece of paper that was on top of this one. Don't give them any legitimate clues - If writing or printing your threat, do it in a writing style different from your own. Do not use typewriters as they can help the police reduce the possible number of suspects as different models have different type styles, and with age and wear, your particular typewriter might have an identifiable peculiarity. Computer printers are so common, they are not tracable but will still make the perpetrator someone who has access to one, thereby making the police's job a little bit easier, though not much. - Mail it from a letter box a very good distance from where you are living. Why give any clues with the Post Office Stamp Cancellation Mark (the thing that dates when the letter was sent, and which sorting station it went to). - Send it to a media outlet (or maybe to your target), but do NOT send it directly to the police. If you don't send it, to a media outlet (or even better to both a newspaper and a television station), it will probably Never will become public knowledge. Also if it is not sent to the police, a lot more people will have handled it, making it practically useless for forensic purposes. When making a threat by telephone you should follow these guidelines so as not to leave any useful clues: - Do not use any telephone you would normally use. It is even better if you can use a phone that is far away (many miles) from where you would normally call from. Payphones are best - If you are familiar with Phone Phreaking, use a diverter or similar system to make it even harder for the authorities to track down where the call originated from - Do NOT leave any fingerprints on the phone nor anywhere near it - NEVER CALL THE POLICE! - Rehearse carefully what you intend on saying and on what information you intend on giving out. Do not give any more information than you intended. Do you want them to know who or what the target is? Where is the bomb? When or how will it go off? Why you want them to think it was planted or mailed, (you don't have to tell them the truth)? You are in control, and you will decide what information they will or won't get. If you make any minor excursions from what you planned don't worry about it, just as long as they are minor - If possible, try not to be seen at the telephone, and wear a disguise to, at and when leaving the telephone. A hooded top, hats/caps, sunglasses, extra clothing to make you look larger, are all useful. If you have driven to the telephone make sure you have parked a good distance away so that your license number can not be connected to the person who was at that telephone making the call. - Assume you may be recorded. - Disguise your voice. The police will ask whoever got the message what your voice sounded like: ù was it shrill or hoarse ù did the person sound in control or agitated ù were they young or old sounding ù did they have any noticable accent ù did they seem to have any speech impediment? - Keep your message short and simple. Don't let them keep you on the line. Tell them what you have to say and don't answer their questions. - Preferably, tell your message to the first person you get on the line. Don't let them transfer you to ANYBODY as it will probably be somebody familiar with such calls, and they will likely be tape-recording the call, taking notes, or have security personel on the line with them. - The police will ask about any background noises the receiver of the call heard, so provide your own FALSE ones. Take a portable tape player (with speaker) with you to provide the false clues. You could have recorded music, traffic noises, a subway rush-hour crowd, children playing in a school yard, it just has to be loud enough to drown out any real background noises that could be a clue as to where you were calling from, and yet not so loud as to completely drown out your message. The background noise will also distract the listener, so they are less likely to note characteristics of your disguised voice. Why give the police ANY clues? Erase the tape when you are finished with it. - Electronic voice disguising equipment will solve all your disguise problems, but if found in your possession at any time can also help to make you a suspect. This guide has been specifically written for the bombing of universities but can be used for any situation. Universities have an inordinate influence over our society, whether it be through social class structure or influencing those who control or will control the media, industry and government. You can change our society for the better by reducing the influence of universities. BOMBS CAN CHANGE SOCIETY FOR THE BETTER. GIVE ONE AWAY TODAY!